Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain installed engine damper, what do you guys think....

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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:22 PM
  #51  
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OK here is a question that might throw you.

Does this have any effect on a MNI COOPER? Not the MCS jus the MC.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:24 PM
  #52  
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Well ASK, you sold me, I just bought a red engine damper, i cant wait until It comes in so I can install it
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:28 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by BECOKA
OK here is a question that might throw you.

Does this have any effect on a MNI COOPER? Not the MCS jus the MC.
Yes, more so on the manual transmission than the CVT though I imagine. Once I get a bracket from Partsman I will be able to test this out on a friend's 03 MC.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:28 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by everytimeidie027
Well ASK, you sold me, I just bought a red engine damper, i cant wait until It comes in so I can install it
Thank you for your patronage.

Shoe
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:28 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by LordOfTheFlies
It's very simple but you need to do things slowly.

Space is tight but with the correct tools - listed in the instructions - it should not take too long.

Tools needed are 17mm wrench, a 17mm stubby wrench, a pair of pliers, and a telescopic magnet.
i didnt have all the right tools. all i used for my work was a 'monkey wrench and 17mm long as wrench. pain in the butt to install without tools but you will find ways, trust me. not rocket scientist installation nor north korean nuclear test but as Shoe said 'slowly and carefully'.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:36 PM
  #56  
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I'll probably do this after Xmas... Most of my free cash is tied up in presents I need to buy this month and next, but I always have extra cash after Jan. 1. Hopefully I can find this thread after the holidays.

Unless we can get enough interest up for another group buy, of course... (hint hint).
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:52 PM
  #57  
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So far I guess my 2 hesitations are:
-Could this cause any warranty issues?
-& on an automatic, would it really be THAT much of a difference, ya know?
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:53 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by LordOfTheFlies
Some people have used tape. Anything to hold that bell washer in place. The telescopic magnet is very useful should you drop something by accident into the engine bay. Everyone should have a telescopic magnet!

in case you drop your nut or bolt down to the engine tray, like i did (kicking myself so badly for dropping one bolt down the engine bay ) all you have to do is just bang on the bottom tray and it will fall out onto the ground, thank God.
i would think having all the tools would be perfect but you will manage. our brains will figure a way and your fingers will come into play.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:54 PM
  #59  
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I was dubious at first, but I have seen the light with this mod. It really does makes a difference in the way the car feels.

Yes, use the painters tape trick as it took me literally minutes to install this.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:59 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by everytimeidie027
Well ASK, you sold me, I just bought a red engine damper, i cant wait until It comes in so I can install it
cool Jon,
have a safe trip and cya soon.

i should of gotten a red or the blue instead of the silver. oh well.....good rhythms
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 04:57 PM
  #61  
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gotz my tracking info.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 07:31 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by PARTSMAN
Ken, what's the build date on your car?

mine's 06/03 build and checked out. (i looked at my car just now)
no need for any drilling, not that it would've stopped me.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 11:25 AM
  #63  
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got mine today.
also got the magnetic tool from Sears yesterday.

will install tonight and let you know. hope i can take it out for a spin
today or tomorrow. keep you guys posted.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 06:47 PM
  #64  
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Here's a quick review:

1. Packaging: Excellent
2. Craftmanship: Very good
3. Instructions: Very good
4. Fitment: Good, shell is(?) is not (?) barely clearing the chassis.
5. Function: Very good, but was hoping to rid herky-jerky but still inducible...
6. Overall satisfaction: Very good, feels like when you change bushings.
7. Would I recommend?: Yes, for those looking for a sporty, precise feel.
8. Ease of installation: Not hard, but not easy either. It's kind of tricky
as you're trying to keep everything from falling. Definitely a plus for
people with smaller hands, remove that oil dipstick out of the way, and
use masking tape to hold the bell.

9. Recommendation for user:
a. Use tape as my picts below; you'll thank me for it.
b. You must have a small monkey wrench or shubby 17mm box wrench.
c. Magnet tool definitely a plus.
d. I mounted mine in reverse orientation so that length adjustment is easier.

10. Recommendation for manufacturer:
a. If you can find a 17mm bolt with allen key in the center of the bolt
(like the strut piston shaft) this would make it a lot easier to mount the
front bolt/nut... but if that's going to increase cost, never mind!

b. The shell could be maybe 2mm smaller in diameter. it was the same
way despite the orientation of the shell.


Alright, here's the tools i used... the safety glasses with LED lights
comes in very handy.




here's wat came in the box (less instructions, downloaded earlier)...




here's how i taped the bell so it doesn't fall off while installing...



here's how i taped up the other bell so that it doesn't fall off either...



here's the finished product...check out the color match with the
IndyBlue.




I fired up the car and immediately noticed a difference...more
motor noise into the cabin sort of like a racecar. (just a side effect).

Then took it out for a spin. The herky-jerky is still inducible, but the
throttle input is more direct as if i installed a engine damper. duh...

It's an overall sporty response.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 07:25 PM
  #65  
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Thanks for the review Ken.

On a side note, that is one GINORMOUS magnetic tool you got there! Holy crap-o-la!
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 07:31 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by LordOfTheFlies
Thanks for the review Ken.

On a side note, that is one GINORMOUS magnetic tool you got there! Holy crap-o-la!
thanks for the quick service and nice product.

yep, i don't mess around with little dinky tools. it can pickup 16lbs!
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 07:41 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by kenchan
4. Fitment: Good, shell is(?) is not (?) barely clearing the chassis.
Ken, if you remove the bell from between the block and the damper, it won't hit/rub anywhere. The way you have it moves the damper closer to the frame, with potential to rub.

Thanks for taking the time to post your input, and I'm glad you like it.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 07:49 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by PARTSMAN
Ken, if you remove the bell from between the block and the damper, it won't hit/rub anywhere. The way you have it moves the damper closer to the frame, with potential to rub.

Thanks for taking the time to post your input, and I'm glad you like it.

i don't think it's rubbing... it would make metallic rattling noise if it did, right?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 07:54 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by kenchan
i don't think it's rubbing... it would make metallic rattling noise if it did, right?
You might hear something, if it was rubbing. Not sure if it would be a rattle.
Run it for a few days, then check the damper body for any signs.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 08:36 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by PARTSMAN
You might hear something, if it was rubbing. Not sure if it would be a rattle.
Run it for a few days, then check the damper body for any signs.

^^ ok, but i just followed instructions...

who made this product anyway? Shoe, was that you or Partsman?
things like this **** me off when i follow instructions and later told
that i did something wrong.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 08:58 PM
  #71  
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You didn't do anything wrong and no need to get pissed off.

MCSa owners will need the second bell washer on the engine block for sure since the engine is moved over towards the passenger side, thus causing the damper body to hit the belt tensioner.

Some 6-spd owners have mentioned the fact that the belt tensioner is rather close to the damper body and so I included a spare washer for them to use on the engine block.

You don't necessarily have to use it on the block side but by using it you will clear the belt tensioner. Partsman was just trying to say that by using the engine block washer you might have the passenger side frame touch the belt tensioner.

In any case, just run it for a while. I have had zero complaints of any serious rattling/rubbing/noise. The biggest compaliner is myself - but it's due to all the gaskets in my UUC exhaust having rusted away!
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 09:05 PM
  #72  
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^^ok, thanks. perhaps i needed to hear that beforehand... so who makes this product?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 09:25 PM
  #73  
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Ken, sorry. I didn't mean to imply that you did anything wrong.
#4 in your post you questioned if the shell is or is not barely clearing the chassis.
I just wanted to point out that by using the bell on the block side will move the damper closer to the frame and possibly rub.
I don't have one there, and I have clearance all the way around the damper body.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 10:07 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by PARTSMAN
Ken, sorry. I didn't mean to imply that you did anything wrong.
#4 in your post you questioned if the shell is or is not barely clearing the chassis.
I just wanted to point out that by using the bell on the block side will move the damper closer to the frame and possibly rub.
I don't have one there, and I have clearance all the way around the damper body.
thanks, partsman. i want to back track a little as to why i was pissed-off
about this. the install itself isn't hard but pretty clumsy not to drop parts into
the abyss. it's just a pita if i had to do rework. i mean, i followed
instructions on that part... things should work properly, right?

ill try the adjustments if it does endup rubbing the chassis.

btw, who makes this product?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 10:17 PM
  #75  
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shoe- on your instructions, why do you have the metal plate go on
the top of the frame? I put mine below the frame as the torque would
be pressed from the bottom up when throttle-on, no? engine would
try to spin the opposing direction of the tires (?). now i can't remember
which direction the motor spins with the gearbox...

I also used the washer on the top as i had plenty of tread on the
nut, plus i didn't want to damage the opening. i know this part
your instructions are different from what i did, but i personally
think the plate should go under the frame. i think im going to
ask GreatBear too...
 
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