6th Gear
so I've been reading through much of this and realized i definately need to bump the surface data thread, and what if a fuctioning scoop could be added in a way that didn't require holes??
I'll have to do some more research before I go into more detail. But I'm thinking some thing that would be useful in the 40-80+MPH range and attach/detachable in about 5-15 minutes. Key requirements for me are functional, look clean and removeable to fit into class rules at the track.
Does anyone have info on a good tool that I can use to probe parts of my hood for pressure reading or is it time to bust out the yarn and really turn some heads while I drinve down the street.
I'll have to do some more research before I go into more detail. But I'm thinking some thing that would be useful in the 40-80+MPH range and attach/detachable in about 5-15 minutes. Key requirements for me are functional, look clean and removeable to fit into class rules at the track.
Does anyone have info on a good tool that I can use to probe parts of my hood for pressure reading or is it time to bust out the yarn and really turn some heads while I drinve down the street.
6th Gear
Quote:
I am wondering if you sealed the opening under the Alta filter, that brings air from the front of the MINI - The stock air intake. I am thinking that if you expect the Alta filter to suck any air from the cowl area, this air source should be sealed close. Only then, the pressure from the engine sucking air will "help" the air from the cowl area be sucked in to the Alta filter. In a few words, the straw has too many holes and it will work better if the front air intake is closed.
If a scoop is used, like the one BFP made with the Y tube, might work well then. Or the ones Benfer made, could work.
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?p=525183
I am wondering if the numbers you got might improve if that front air source, working against the airflow we want from the cowl, might improve when it is sealed.
[/SIZE][/FONT]Bomboasy
PS. I did this and like the way the car is driving now. No numbers, but it feels better than the standard Alta installation.
Originally Posted by bomboasy
Obehave, I am very interested on what you measured with the Alta box. I just modified my Alta box to REALLY seal. I am not using their top, because you have so many holes all around this box. I made my own and sealed all openings with tape. I am wondering if you sealed the opening under the Alta filter, that brings air from the front of the MINI - The stock air intake. I am thinking that if you expect the Alta filter to suck any air from the cowl area, this air source should be sealed close. Only then, the pressure from the engine sucking air will "help" the air from the cowl area be sucked in to the Alta filter. In a few words, the straw has too many holes and it will work better if the front air intake is closed.
If a scoop is used, like the one BFP made with the Y tube, might work well then. Or the ones Benfer made, could work.
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?p=525183
I am wondering if the numbers you got might improve if that front air source, working against the airflow we want from the cowl, might improve when it is sealed.
[/SIZE][/FONT]Bomboasy
PS. I did this and like the way the car is driving now. No numbers, but it feels better than the standard Alta installation.
Actually I had just taped off the inlet in the front of the car. It was the easiest way to block it off.
Readings were the same as when I had done just the cowl area with the bag acting as a chamber.
One thing I have found with some different playing I did is that the heat evacuates faster if you leave the front tube open. Bear in mind this is using pretty slow, cheap gauges and a guy with a wrist watch who is also driving the car
Once again not a day and night difference but in this instance having both ends open was the best way to go.
With the pressure measurements it was so close it was probably within a margin of error.
With the temp measurements it was definitely an advantage.
6th Gear
Quote:
I'll have to do some more research before I go into more detail. But I'm thinking some thing that would be useful in the 40-80+MPH range and attach/detachable in about 5-15 minutes. Key requirements for me are functional, look clean and removeable to fit into class rules at the track.
Does anyone have info on a good tool that I can use to probe parts of my hood for pressure reading or is it time to bust out the yarn and really turn some heads while I drinve down the street.
The yarn will still give you the best indication of flow direction. For measuring the pressure you can pick up a magnehelic gauge for under $70. Different levels of sensitivity are available too. Tape the hose to the hood after finding where the airflow is with the yarn or where you want the scoop to be aesthetically. You can also build a small flexible wire frame that will allow you to measure at heights above the hood to see where the flow is best.Originally Posted by motor on
so I've been reading through much of this and realized i definately need to bump the surface data thread, and what if a fuctioning scoop could be added in a way that didn't require holes??I'll have to do some more research before I go into more detail. But I'm thinking some thing that would be useful in the 40-80+MPH range and attach/detachable in about 5-15 minutes. Key requirements for me are functional, look clean and removeable to fit into class rules at the track.
Does anyone have info on a good tool that I can use to probe parts of my hood for pressure reading or is it time to bust out the yarn and really turn some heads while I drinve down the street.
I've thought this out before and have just ordered the gauge this weekend.
6th Gear
anyone remember chevys' cowl induction? it faced rearward in front of the windshield(hence the name) it raised up when on the throttle and lowered otherwise. the air at the windshield is easy to grab i guess .no rain problem .
6th Gear
Quote:
Originally Posted by herbie hind
anyone remember chevys' cowl induction? it faced rearward in front of the windshield(hence the name) it raised up when on the throttle and lowered otherwise. the air at the windshield is easy to grab i guess .no rain problem .
I remember it but it didn't raise up.
Here's a good parts page. There was just a flapper valve.
http://www.stevescamaroparts.com/id11.html
Quote:
Still in a neutral pressure zone...Next best thing to ram induction though...Originally Posted by herbie hind
anyone remember chevys' cowl induction? it faced rearward in front of the windshield(hence the name) it raised up when on the throttle and lowered otherwise. the air at the windshield is easy to grab i guess .no rain problem .
4th Gear
I removed the stock intake inlet from the front, that allowed cool air to enter the engine bay, and go to the Alta box, cooling the metal. I sealed the stock air inlet in the air filter box - bottom with a "Nerf Ball" for baseball. I then removed the cowl cover on the driver side. This seems to be a relevant thing, since I noticed that the driver side windshield wiper now moves a lot. This seems to indicate that the cowls covers do change the airflow a lot, forcing the air to avoid the wipers. But without the cowl cover, the air flows closer to the cowl opening. It might even catch the back part of the opening. Now, I will modify my spare cowl cover to make an intake.
Bomboasy
Bomboasy
Quote:
Readings were the same as when I had done just the cowl area with the bag acting as a chamber.
One thing I have found with some different playing I did is that the heat evacuates faster if you leave the front tube open. Bear in mind this is using pretty slow, cheap gauges and a guy with a wrist watch who is also driving the car
Once again not a day and night difference but in this instance having both ends open was the best way to go.
With the pressure measurements it was so close it was probably within a margin of error.
With the temp measurements it was definitely an advantage.
Originally Posted by obehave
Actually I had just taped off the inlet in the front of the car. It was the easiest way to block it off.Readings were the same as when I had done just the cowl area with the bag acting as a chamber.
One thing I have found with some different playing I did is that the heat evacuates faster if you leave the front tube open. Bear in mind this is using pretty slow, cheap gauges and a guy with a wrist watch who is also driving the car
Once again not a day and night difference but in this instance having both ends open was the best way to go.
With the pressure measurements it was so close it was probably within a margin of error.
With the temp measurements it was definitely an advantage.
6th Gear
Quote:
Bomboasy
Originally Posted by bomboasy
I sealed the stock air inlet in the air filter box - bottom with a "Nerf Ball" for baseball. Bomboasy
- all I can imagine is that it gets sucked in - thru the TB, then shredded by the SC and shot out the back
.4th Gear
It would have to go through the Alta filter, but if it did, I would very likely not be laughting
. But, I am the one and forever only to have a nerf ball as a mod.


Bomboasy
. But, I am the one and forever only to have a nerf ball as a mod.


Bomboasy
6th Gear
Quote:
. But, I am the one and forever only to have a nerf ball as a mod.


Bomboasy
I realize the filters in place Originally Posted by bomboasy
It would have to go through the Alta filter, but if it did, I would very likely not be laughting
. But, I am the one and forever only to have a nerf ball as a mod.


Bomboasy
but I just got this image of shredded Nerf ball shooting out your exhaust and started laughing (thks for the laugh by the way) AND thats MINI Nerf ball MOD
.Legion_of_Doom
I just talked to my friend, the one who is shrinking me a bonnet scoop, he said we should have something by Friday.
The drivers side hood vent on my car is very close to the top of the airbox...

...I wonder if I can modify the vent, to accept the miniature version of the bonnet scoop he is fabbing and use it as a ram air inlet.
How would that look?
A vent on one side, and a scoop on the other side?
Another idea I was thinking for this scoop, is to give him the drivers side cowl vent and mold the scoop into it, BUT having it extend to the middle of the car. The scoop would sit right sit right inside the passenger side wiper, on the body. There would ducting to the back of the air box as well.
Keep in mind the scoop he is making will be identical to the stock bonnet scoop, just smaller.
The drivers side hood vent on my car is very close to the top of the airbox...

...I wonder if I can modify the vent, to accept the miniature version of the bonnet scoop he is fabbing and use it as a ram air inlet.
How would that look?
A vent on one side, and a scoop on the other side?
Another idea I was thinking for this scoop, is to give him the drivers side cowl vent and mold the scoop into it, BUT having it extend to the middle of the car. The scoop would sit right sit right inside the passenger side wiper, on the body. There would ducting to the back of the air box as well.
Keep in mind the scoop he is making will be identical to the stock bonnet scoop, just smaller.
Former Vendor
Quote:
You have to say my name three times in a row, then I'll show up and start a war in your thread. Originally Posted by PARTSMAN
Where the heck is Will?
You've got a big fat PM waiting for you, P-Man!
Legion_of_Doom
Quote:
That is too funny, man.Originally Posted by Will @ M7 Tuning
You have to say my name three times in a row, then I'll show up and start a war in your thread.
3rd Gear
Quote:
Maybe a smaller, vertical version?
Well Joaquin, if you paid for it like I paid you and you don't get the product I am sure it would look horrible. Why don't you try paying someone for something and see what it's like to not get the item or a refund? Tell us, how will the item look. We are all so anxious to find out.Originally Posted by Partsman
How would that look/fit into the area next to the headlight? Maybe a smaller, vertical version?


