Here's what I'm planning on buying, via WebbMotorSports:

Alta Intake
BFP Scoops
M7 16% pulley
Denso Plugs
Pilo Coilpack
Wires (not sure weither capicator or non-capicator)
Alta Swaybar

I'd like to get the Ultrik Air-to-Water Intercooler, but that's too much, along with the Borla exhaust... those will have to come later.

Am I forgetting anything? I've looked at the oil cooler by Cobalt, and the Catch Can, but I haven't gotten enough persuasive proof to buy them. There are a few other mods I'd like to buy, but I can't go more than a hundred or so over what I have planned for now; I still have to get rims and tires. I'm looking at Buddy Club (brand, not style) P-1 Racing SF 18" rims with 42mm offset.

http://www.buddyclub.us/buddyclub/top_m.html

They are not really what I want, but I have yet to find a better set of 6-spoke white rims. I prefer the straight spokes, rather than curved, and as little center material as possible. Maybe something like this but with 6, not 7 spokes:

http://www.motegiracing.com/applicat...mega/m2074.jpg

but with 6, not 7 spokes.

Nate
SteyrTMP

 

Hey,

Are you having Randy WEBB install this at AMVIV III??

Earl

 

I'd love to have him do the work, but....

1)I live in Ohio. Kinda far drive for me

2)I be broke! Lol. I'm probably going to wait for one of the local pulley parties for some of the stuff, and do the rest myself (maybe with some help).

Randy seems like a great guy; he's answered all my annoying assurance questions and what-ifs with great advise.

Nate
SteyrTMP

 

Thats a good set of mods there. I have most of those or a close variation. Unless you must gobs more power you will be very happy with those. I had Randy install most of my major mods @ 2 pulley parties (love the guy )

Although with the intercooler I think you will be just as happy going with a GRS or Alta Intercooler instead of the water to air one.

 

Unless you are planning to remove the rev limiter, IMHO the coil pack and wires won't do much of anything except cosmetics.

Instead, I'd suggest using the money to install lower engine mount stiffeners to reduce the engine rocking fore and aft. It will smooth your start-off, and make shifting more precise, as well as reducing the lurch when you lift-off the gas.

 

OldRick,

Can you give a link to some more info on these, or perhaps who sells them? thanks!

-jac

 

Fishbulb: www.mini-madness.com offers a set of urethane bushings to fit the lower rear "torque control" mount - about an hour install. I've got them on mine, and it's a nice upgrade for around $60.

I too have a 15% pulley and an intake upgrade (K&N in `05 airbox). When you have the cash, the MTH ECU mod will give you a bump about like that of the pulley, and add torque at even lower RPM, making the car more drivable and adding maybe 10-12 ft.lbs. It's a great upgrade at this level of tune.

As to installation costs, I personally would avoid pulley parties, after having seen two engines slip and drop down HARD several inches, at a recent mod day event here. Thing is, if you have a pro do it for you, you've got someone who will fix things if they screw it up. At a do-it-yourself event, you might not even be able to drive home. BTW, if a shop charges you more than an hour of labor to install a pulley, you're getting screwed...

If you go for an (unnecessary bling, IMHO) oil catch-can, at least get a metal one. Making these out of a piece of silicone hose with end-plugs and hose clamps to hold it together is really foolish engineering.

 

thanks!

-jac

 

I've had the Alta unit for two years(60K miles) with NO issues. It catches all kinds of gunk that would otherwise end up in the IC.
Jim

 

yea - you missing header, atleast 1ball exhaust mod and ecu

 

also before you do IC - consider stock w/ larger scoop.n Of course big IC plus scoop is optimum.

 

I'm a big fan of the metal brake bushings. Look in the reviews section for more information. helix and tyrolsport sell them.

You might want to drop the BFP scoops (those are the ones on the cowls, right) and get a larger IC scoop. This will really work, and the benefits of the others are questionalbe.

If you don't have the money for a cat back, consider the one-ball exhaust mod. It too is covered in the reviews, and there''s a bunc of threads on it too.

Matt

 

MDSBRAIN had a silicone OCC installed for three months when he shot this picture...

From his blog: Swollen OCC

I suspect that a) the can is seeing constant crankcase pressure without an exit, and/or b) the silicone is going downhill, as it shouldn't be so weak as to bulge like that...

The pressure might come from a blocked checkvalve or a kinked hose - two brand-new and additional failure modes that are introduced when installing any OCC.

 

everything sounds good to me there, a catback is a must, watch the path that i chose, everything works prefectly fine and car drives like a champ.

 

You could make a catch for real cheap and it works ust as good. Refer to this thread.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=49645

 

I disagree on the need for a cat-back for a street car. IMHO, the cost-to-benefit ratio for an aftermarket exhaust (over $100/HP) is simply not justifiable, and I personally have no interest in making more noise than necessary in my daily driver - I'd rather hear the music from the HK...

Also, there is almost no difference in additional power between brands and models of aftermarket exhaust systems, according to this quote from a couple of guys who should know, in MC2 magazine, Issue 1, page 34: "...with George (Mehallik) agreeing with the consensus of shops we've spoken with, that all aftermarket MINI exhaust systems produce five to seven additional horsepower. No one anywhere is claiming more than 10 additional ponies."

Note: claiming is not the same as delivering...

George, of Mini-Madness, is getting HP in the high 200's from his MCS with a Borla Street exhaust, and his highly-developed car has been featured in every MINI magazine.