I offerred my short block to max for 3,500 (what I paid for rods, pistons, bore, balancing, oil pump mod, rings, gaskets, precision assembly), but he went his own way, spent about as much, I would guess.

has anyone looked at the Hydra?

 

After seeing the clutch disc, it was kind of needed. Stab marks like crazy on it and the flywheel I wanted because the engine to rev a bit faster, thus initializing the spool of the turbo quicker.

 

Maximus' car is fast and a ton of fun. The clutch and flywheel were replaced as preventative measures, the pistons were replaced because they needed it. The head work was done because the head had to come off anyways, so while it was off why not make it a little better. The clutch and flywheel are the same deal the transmission was out of the car so it was really worth it and very cost effective. The car gets a lot of respect from the local import crowd and even some of the muscle car crowd. They then give even more respect after they raced it (on a closed course) . The car has not lost any of it's cornering ability because not a lot of weight has been added. It would be a chore on an autocross course though, due to their nature of being short and lots of turns, so traction would be a massive problem. As for the reliabilty the car made it to the Dragon this fall, it came all the way from michigan and back with no problems at all.
Hope this helps answer some questions,
Ben

 

Not directly related to t/cing, but possibly the only situation where it may cause a problem... Does anyone know the HP threshhold of the stock LSD that came on 2005 cars? Or is that not really a problem with LSDs?

I heard Ada say she had the Quaife and I can't recall of any 2005 build T/C coopers. Vader maybe? Does he have a LSD maximus?

 

I think the redone fuel system is only necessary for track/race cars. I guess you can ask Maximus about the pistons.... As for fun, it's hard to beat! A long time racer who runs a well-respected race shop in my area took it for a little run and said it was the most exciting car he had ever driven.

Well, it cost a lot to get it to this point. Basic SPI kit, approx $5000, pistons $700, misc another $1000 or so, labor was done by Hubie as one of his projects. The fuel system (ATL fuel cell with 100 psi pump and surge tank, stainless lines, fuel pressure regulator, fuel rail) cost about $2000, plus $2000 in labor/fab work at a local race shop, for a race-worthy system. I probably could have found someone else to do the labor for less, but wanted experienced folks to handle this. I may not have had to go to this extreme (could have tried to use the factory system with upgraded pump, etc), but wanted no fuel issues and this also allows us to run true racing slicks (requires fuel cell in BMWCCA). Thanks for the good wishes!

17 secs is overstated. My best lap at VIR before the turbo was about 2:23. I was able to do a 2:16 recently, without trying hard. I think I will be able to get that down by several seconds now that the kinks are worked out.

 

Ada, thanks for the insight. That's a very realistic and honest list. I appreciate it. Also, Maximus, thank you d00d! I'll race ya to the SP concert! [on closed track, of course ]

So, has anyone else gotten their car prepped for race, with a twincharge?

 

We should switch cars and then get to the SP concert makes it for more interesting challenge

 

So do you guys recommend Tc kit on 100% stock car IF the car will be only driven on streets?

No upgrades on suspension, brakes, etc...?

 

uhhh woops...so 7 seconds...guess I heard wrong...17..7....you see what I am saying here...LOL....

yes



We used a stock 05 tranny with LSD in the MINI USA drag car...Launching it at 6000 with 380 WHP....

 

Tuls, shouldn't that carry a "Don't try this at home kids!"?? . That flies on the track, but definately not on the street . What kinda clutch/pressure plate are you using anyways? Can't be stock, right? Either way, these transmissions sure are something! :smile:

 

accually...clutch and pressure plate are not stock...HOWEVER, I doubt anyone will be putting down that power...unless they spend the $ and if the spend that...what's another 1200 for a clutch and flywheel setup....

that aside...accually there is MUCH less stress on the street than track...A slicks grab harder and there for stress the drive train much harder than is possible on street tires...also, the track is much more sticky than the street due to VHT and the rubber being trown down...

HOWEVER, before someone says "Tüls said I could do it" This is not an open invitation to go out there and beat the heck out of your car.....if you choose to do so then deal with the concequences...you have only your self to blame when this break...

 

get the twin charge matey! good luck with it!

 

If anybody could post some good websites and some specifics of the type and size of pistons to use it would be great,

 

http://www.theoldone.com/components/...ead_modifi.htm

 

thanks that looks great

 

Totally true, d00d. Just joking around . Actually, what is the redline on the drag car? If I let out the clutch at anywhere above 3500, even by slipping, I spin my street tires hopelessly. Can the drag slicks hook up at 6k? And then, are you running enough revs so as not to require immediate shifting into second? Must be a HELL of a ride. I'm a doctor, too, can you trust me to drive her? Those who know me, know I can drive really well!

 

The way to go is turbo only. Someone I know on the west coast is close on a kit and it will be bad ***.

 

"Can the drag slicks hook up at 6k? And then, are you running enough revs so as not to require immediate shifting into second? Must be a HELL of a ride. I'm a doctor, too, can you trust me to drive her? Those who know me, know I can drive really well!"


sounds like you need some experience learning how to launch; get your butt out to the strip and try it out.

 

That explains my broken motor mount! You said I could do it! J/k. But seriously, drag radials and a nice holeshot is what broke it.

Oh! As for Ingsoc, you will NOT slip the clutch on my drag radials..EVER..just drop it after a nice smokey burnout.. they will grip like no other.. but if you do break another mount, this one is on you!

 

yess maximus drag radials...I said street tires....ALSO, a proper burnout does not require DROPING the clutch.....that's what the water is for...it allows no need for that....yes you still have to get the revs up a little...but not like it sounds like you are suggesting...heh heh...

this next part if for the general pop...not pointed only at you maximuxs...

however, things do break...all in all...you have to remember one thing...who was driving? you? then YOU broke it...cars DO NOT Break them selves...you wana race...you risk breaking...or WORSE CRASHING....

 

oh...I was wrong about launching at 6000....we were launching at 7000....LOL

 

Hence I say, "kids, don't dump the clutch at 6k with 400 whp at home unless you're a certified doctor!" Wait, come to think of it, I'm not far from that point! Score!

And, Maximus, I'll drive your car like a granny to make mine look fast . A brutha needs all the help he can get!

 

don't worry ingsov...I know a few TC cars that run 14s or even 15s...it's all about the driver...

 

And to back him up, I cannot seem to get a full run in without being locked out out of gears, or breaking. but hey, I've come to accept that i risk all of these outcomes because I choose to race at a dragstrip.