It's my understanding that the elastomeric dampers are designed for compression loads - not rebound loads. Most of the twist in the engine is found under hard acceleration and is rearward (toward the firewall) on our cars. The idea is to dampen the rotation rearward using the compression of the bushings (instead of rebound)... By using one of these dampers as in the pics here, I would think all the load is simply being transferred to the solid rod inside the damper (thus increasing NVH and vibration) as the motor rotates rearward. In other words, the bushings are doing nothing, since the rod is a fixed length - it's like attaching a limiting strap to the motor, instead of actually dampening anything...

 

I took mine apart before I installed it. There is a black rubber bushing attached to the rod that I have bolted to the block, on top of that is a white plastic/nylon insert that keeps it from moving when the end cap is on. It will dampen going in either direction.

 

I saw mine flex yesterday, under accceleration on a dyno.

It's a HUGE movement up and rearward...

 

Hey I saw that Tweety car at the Dragon, pulled into a store I was at in Robbinsville. Awesome sunroof decal!

 

Thanks!

That's my wife's car, which is largely unmodified, unlike mine...

We each took our cars to MOTD.

 

We saw it too. So many people I didn't get to meet there.
Maybe next time.

 

I took mine apart many times to change dampers. The central rod has a washer part way down it. One damper sits on one side and the other damper on the other side of the washer, so that it compresses a damper in both directions. I set my unit up so that it is at rest when the engine is off (no preload). The damper rod moves both in and out as the engine torques. It works like a damper should.

cheers,

 

Group buy thread reinstated.

LINK

 

Discovered that my upper motor mount rubber was dry rotten and torn, so I decided to eliminate it all together. Not happy with changing parts with the same parts. I made a new one. Its very rigid, no movement at all. A slight vibration just off idle but nothing anoying. Shifts solid, both up and down. Steering is more controlled. It is also adjustable for preload.

 

lambspeed, why are ur strut tower botls so rusted??

 

If you had seen the strut brace I made, It had cups where the nuts went in and water would sit in them. Just never cared enough to change them.

 

Do you have bigger pics? close-ups?

 

I have exhausted my upload capacity. If you want bigger pics I can email them to you. PM me with your address

 

got it!

__NiCE damper BTW

 

I have several concerns about the damper in this thread:

1) The size of the mounting bolt to the engine block may be a bit too small, but only time and a lot of hard driving will answer that.

2) The location of attachment, i.e., to the block, might be a problem with respect to heat generation and subsequent damage to the internal bushings of the damper. The block can get very hot, especially in a modified car. Again, time and lots of hard driving will tell.

I am not trying to discourage purchase of this damper, but just to point out some potential problems. BMJ Motorsports ("pfunk") does sell the true JDM engine torque damper, but the cost is more than the one in this thread. It will be interesting to see how this engine block-mounted damper performs, especially since the price is most appealing...

 

I have had this damper on for <1000 miles thus far so I can't vouch for any long term issues.

In the case that heat builds up to the point where the internal bushings are damaged, the worst thing that happens is that the engine mount does nothing and you end up with just the damping provided by the stock engine mount. As you said, time will tell the effect of time and how hard one drives the vehicle.

All I can tell you thus far is that there is a noticeable difference in feel....

 

Less is more. Dont add this dampner, Eliminate the movement of the over engineered, poorly made factory stuff. Those inserts are ok but someone(like myself) needs to find a better way. I think this bolt on dampner is purely Bling and nothing else.

I am currently working on an entire engine torque kit, that will replace all the factory mounts. Its not for the faint of heart as far as vibration. But I see all of these other "add ons" make the same vibrations at idle. My set up will be much more rigid, and no worrys about being to close to the engine and changing bushings and the like.

Dont give in to the JDM craze.

Their is nothing like "yankee enginuity"

 

Best wishes. Perhaps you can start another thread on yankee ingenuity once it's complete.

 

Purely bling? please.
Half of the damper is hidden, so how can it be bling?
I'll bet you the pink slip to your car that a group buy list for your backyard mounts won't be HALF as long as the one me and Shoe have going. Take your "yankee enginuity" somewhere else.

 

And Yankee enginuity can't spell. "Their" -- don't you mean "There"?
And don't give me that crap about "well, you figured out my meaning, so I don't need no steenkin grammah..." It's the lingua franca. Use it, and the better you use it, the more people will listen to what you have to say.

I'll stick with my JDM "bling" NRG damper, thanks. Mine is a street car first and foremost, so those "little vibrations", some of which are not at idle (my mid-2k resonance, for example), are actually a factor in my decision making.

cheers,

 

anyone with pics of this fitting on a 02 model?

 

Fitting which one? The one gandini uses, or the one I have?

 

The early model fitting is quite different to the later (04+) model fitting, due to a change in the engine mount on the passenger side. Earlier threads clearly show the early model mounting (a search will help, especially as pfunk sold mostly early model kits.)
The "new" engine block mount is pretty cool--especially as it doesn't require any brackets so long as the damper you are using is long enough (my NRG is not long enough to do this mounting on an 05). I don't know if early engine blocks have the threaded hole used by this mounting method--I'd guess they do, as engine blocks don't change much year to year...

cheers,

 

the one part of this g/b

 

That's the one I mounted on my car, which is a '03. Check out the pics in the first post of the group buy thread to see the install. As long as you have those two holes you're all set.