I'm sure it's been asked and answered before but......

What increases the SC whine after an intake install? The air flow and/or the open box? Seems to me it would be the air flow.

What does adding a top to the box do?

I just finished installing mine (no top) and WOW! Added even more zip to the 15% pulley. The SC whine has increased for sure...mostly on an agressive acceleration.

Not sure why some folks install it and 'just can stand the noise'. ???

Personal preference I guess!

Thanks!

 

Whats up with the Hydra?

 

My question here is... What size belt do you use when you have the Alta 15% SC pulley, Alta 2% Crank Pulley and Alta 5% Alta-Nator Pulley?

Also, will the 5% Alta-Nator pulley have any positive or negative effects in performance when used in conjunction with the 15 + 2 pulley combination?

Thanks,
BEATNUT

 

BE4TNUT: Thank you for asking! You should use a stock length belt on that set up.

The ALTA-Nator™ will certainly have a positive effect as it will reduce additional wear on the alternator, and improve HP. A win win!

TampaMCS: Good question. Hydra is still coming and I agree we have been saying that for some time. The final tweaks are going on as we speak. This is another example how we don't rush to market with an untried part. We have vehicles running these ECU's and have been for more than a year. We appreciate your patience!

Red SCooter: Thanks for asking. The OEM air box works the same as your OEM exhaust mufflers. But this is on the intake side. It simply muffles much of the normal engine and S/C music to a universally acceptable level(in this case BMW engineers.) When it is removed that music is allowed to play. Just like rap music and mozart, not everyone is a fan. I agree it sounds great, others don't find it pleaseing. As you said personal preference.

Thank you all for your business! Let us know how we can help further!

 

Adam: I have the Alta 15% SC Pulley and +2% Alta Crank Pulley. Currently using OEM Belt with only 20K miles on it but have a JCW belt as a spare. Should I sell the JCW belt and get an OEM as spare or, could I use the JCW belt when the time comes to change belts?

 

apexer: Thanks for asking. The JCW is also an acceptable length for replacement in that setup.

Let us know if we can help further!

 

Dont keep us waiting too long

 

Mr. Alta can you check the Crank Pulley DYI that I just posted for accuracy. The installation method is a little different than what you recommend, no heat needed, and uses the OEM method. Your comments are welcomed. Thanks.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=86646

 

Thanks for your prompt reply

 

I've got a query on the Alta IC diverter water sprayer... just wondering if anyone has done this and if so how difficult and how did they do it?

I recently purchased the diverter, and was wondering how to hook up the water sprayer to the bluetooth phone button on the multifunction steering wheel. Anyone got any ideas? I haven't explored it so far, just an idea that popped into my head a few mins ago, and wondering how difficult it would be to rig this up.

 

I did the diverter and sprayer kit. install was pretty easy but not cutting the new cupler hoses was a bit "trying" aka: I yelled, a lot!

I used my rear window sprayer cause I have no back wiper or motor (3 pound saving) this was the easiest part of the whole install.

BUT I have had some rusting issues lately!?! Two of the welds on the diverter have been peeling back and exposing raw metal. result: rust. :(

 

Yeah, I know abt hooking it up to the rear washer, but the trigger for that is the washer stalk on the steering column. I want to set the trigger to be the bluetooth button on the MFSW. Don't know if this is possible... anyone done this?

 

Today while installing the My Mini Tensioner Stop Bar, I happened to touch the center bolt holding my Alta +2% crank pulley to the crank shaft and.....
IT MOVED....I mean finger tight as I was able to unscrew the bolt with my fingers. The crank pulley didn't seem to be loose as it was still tight and I haven't noticed or heard any squeeling noise.
Randy Webb did the install nearly a year ago (only about 5-7K miles since then) and I know he used thread loc blue as you could see the blue on the threads of the bolt I removed. I don't remember if Randy torqued the bolt but, knowing Randy I assume he did. I cleaned the bolt threads with brake clean and also sprayed brake clean into the end of the crank, blew everything dry with compressed air, used Loc Tite RED and torqued to specs. The bolt was the OEM bolt re-used.
Is there a known problem with the Alta Crank Pulley coming loose and what can I do to prevent future problems?
A prompt reply will be appreciated.

 

I know of two people who had the same problem. One forgot the loctite, the other had the wrong spec for torque. Re-installed and no prblem.

 

Apexer,

Perhaps the link below would be a good reference, since it applies directly to your installation. I was hoping that the Alta team would comment on the accuracy or the DYI. The torque spec was pulled from the Maintenance manual. Good luck.

Bomboasy

 

Thanks for the link. I did re-apply loctite (Red) and re-torqued to 85 ftlbs using the old OEM bolt (hope thats not a problem as the manual suggests using a new bolt)

 

bomboasy: Thank you for that link. I am going to have Jeff in our Technical Dept. review that in the next day or so. Thank you again!

apexer: NO Problem!

Gr1zzly: Thank you also for your e-mail I hope someone can help you out. Very interested to see how that works. Keep us all posted.

El Griton: Thank you for your purchase and your reflection to the board. Rust is NOT normal, nor is the weld breaking. Be sure the seal has room to move, and that the motor is not cocked in the bay. (This can sometimes occur when tightening the pitch mount as well as aftermarket motor mount inserts.) Regardless, your warranty should still be in effect. E-mail tech@altaminiperformance.com to get the process started.

apexer: This is NOT a normal problem. The OEM bolt should be replaced if it has had loc-tite on it. The factory recommends the use of oil on the threads to allow proper torque numbers. The loctite can actually cause the torque reading to be incorrect, thus being loose. That appears to be what happened here. Let us know if we can help further! Thank you!

Thanks again folks! Happy Holidays!

 

I recommend this book for anyone that turns a wrench: Carroll Smith’s NUTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS and PLUMBING Handbook.

I’m not beating-up on apexer but for anyone else that may follow his lead here are some things to consider. There are two red threadlocker compounds (#271, #262) with different temperature ranges and breakaway torque values neither of them suitable for the crankshaft bolt if it is to be removed by the do-it-yourselfer later. It takes lots of heat to kill the bond risking damage to the crankshaft seal. The blue (#242) threadlocker is adequate for this application.

I don’t recommend re-using the stock bolt because there is a risk of stretch; for a part that costs less than $2 on the end of a part that costs $LOTS with other drive systems relying on its integrity, it’s not worth the risk.

 

For the price of this bolt you would think Alta would try to inclued it in the kit and maybe add a dollar to the price. This is not directed to knock Alta in any way. It just seems like it would just add a little extra value and a customer security blanket.

 

I just checked and I used the 275 formula. Sure hope I don't have to remove that bolt anytime soon, I could be screwed

 

I'm sure a new bolt is more than a buck but, for what is at stake and the fact that the manual says to use a new bolt, you would think that Alta would have considered that and at least made that in BOLD print in their instructions. A new bolt should have been included even if it added a few bucks to the selling price.

 

Well rkw on this forum put me onto newministuff.com. They've got a garage door relay that's been spliced. I've been told that, that's the relay to use to hook up the water sprayer to the button. Will let you guys know the results when it's done. Diverter should be in just after xmas...

 

Hello Folks,

Sorry for any confusion. When we made the instructions for the Crank Pulley we worked closely with a technician at our local dealer. From the information in his hand from BMW it said to not use loctite and the bolt would only need replaced if damaged. That was several years ago. In some cases things change, TSB's are released etc. We are more than happy to make any necessary changes both to the part, packaging and instructions to be reflective of those changes. Jeff has read this thread and will investigate further after the holiday break. Please accept our apologies if this is an inconvenience to any of our clients.

THANK YOU all again for this dialogue. The members of this board and our staff is richer as a result.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

 

Additional threadlocker is not needed when using a new stock crankshaft bolt; it comes with its own already applied.

 

can you provide a sound link with the new 2.5 AND 3" Alta cat back exhaust?

with and without a header if possible.