Drivetrain OBX-Racing Header Dyno Results!
#101
Bomboasy, 4k? I thought my car would fly apart at 3k! I wish I had thought of earplugs, my head rang after only about 4 miles.
This header has definitely reduced, if not eliminated in car resonance from the Magnaflow, and more clearly defined the tone. Less muffled, more crisp. really sounds great. I think the car pulls a bit stronger, and slightly better throttle response. Overall, more than worth the money in my application.(all the usual mods; pulley, intake, exhaust, software, etc).
This header has definitely reduced, if not eliminated in car resonance from the Magnaflow, and more clearly defined the tone. Less muffled, more crisp. really sounds great. I think the car pulls a bit stronger, and slightly better throttle response. Overall, more than worth the money in my application.(all the usual mods; pulley, intake, exhaust, software, etc).
#102
A comment on open headers.
I was working with a friend on a 50's Chevy pickup. He cracked the torque tube mount, so we had to pull a lot of crap off to get access. He fired it up with open headers (in La Honda, CA a few years ago). One of his neighbors came out of his house. He was deaf. Said it was the first thing he'd heard in 20 years! And he couldn't see the work until he walked up the street. Motors can be LOUD!
Matt
Matt
#103
Nerd, acording to obx when I was looking to get a real answer as to what header part number was right for an mcs aplication I was told they only make one header for the mini. I don't know why that other ebay vendor advertize his obx header for non s aplications but he is the reason why I went looking for a real answer, I called obx. Happy motoring!
#105
Nerd, I understand you wanting to get the brake in done before the games begin. I started the mods at 3000 miles with an alta intake and 1 week later came a 15% pulley. That kept me plenty happy for another 24000 miles. At that point I got mth software, a milltek catback and lighter wheels and tires.
Now I'm at almost 38000 miles and have a look below for the current mod list. I'm very pleased with the results. Good luck with your car, is it an 05 ?
Now I'm at almost 38000 miles and have a look below for the current mod list. I'm very pleased with the results. Good luck with your car, is it an 05 ?
#106
Ok, I know I keep reporting on this header, but I am amazed at the value.
The car keeps running better as it "learns" the header. Clearly stronger running, and fantastic sound that has improved with driving. I love this thing.
Regarding mods, I liked adding them individually, as then I could fully evaluate each change.
The car keeps running better as it "learns" the header. Clearly stronger running, and fantastic sound that has improved with driving. I love this thing.
Regarding mods, I liked adding them individually, as then I could fully evaluate each change.
#107
Originally Posted by minibrute
Nerd, I understand you wanting to get the brake in done before the games begin.
#108
#109
http://stores.ebay.com/Sparktec-Moto...eNameZl2QQtZkm
I bought mine from Sparktec. Low price, quick shipping.
I bought mine from Sparktec. Low price, quick shipping.
#111
#112
4th Gear
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On page 2 of this thread, BlueMiniMe commented on this:
"The flex joint is exactly like the Supersprint, and is a method I've seen and used on race bikes, more than a few years ago. Its still a somewhat popular method for joining exhaust work where you need some flex. It works like a ball and socket. The main piece has like a hollow "ball", then the rear portion is the socket. The portion that is the ball, is a high-temp gasket which fits onto the collector, and holds and seals into the socket. A nice feature as opposed to metal on metal, which would certainly wear out in time."
This "ball and socket" does the same thing as the "braided part". It seems to be a proven method.
Bomboasy
"The flex joint is exactly like the Supersprint, and is a method I've seen and used on race bikes, more than a few years ago. Its still a somewhat popular method for joining exhaust work where you need some flex. It works like a ball and socket. The main piece has like a hollow "ball", then the rear portion is the socket. The portion that is the ball, is a high-temp gasket which fits onto the collector, and holds and seals into the socket. A nice feature as opposed to metal on metal, which would certainly wear out in time."
This "ball and socket" does the same thing as the "braided part". It seems to be a proven method.
Bomboasy
#113
Okay, I get it now. I already have the ball and socket with mine. That one took me a little while. LMAO.
Has anyone done their welding with flux wire? A guy at work told me to use gas if joining stainless steel with mild steal. This is assuming the rest of the exhaust isn't stainless. What do you guys think? I got a welder and after a few weeks of practicing I'm going to put this header on myself but I didn't get a gas cylinder yet.
Brad
Has anyone done their welding with flux wire? A guy at work told me to use gas if joining stainless steel with mild steal. This is assuming the rest of the exhaust isn't stainless. What do you guys think? I got a welder and after a few weeks of practicing I'm going to put this header on myself but I didn't get a gas cylinder yet.
Brad
#114
We mig welded the adapter (socket piece) with a butt joint to my OEM CAT. 2 months and its still solid.
Originally Posted by nerd
Okay, I get it now. I already have the ball and socket with mine. That one took me a little while. LMAO.
Has anyone done their welding with flux wire? A guy at work told me to use gas if joining stainless steel with mild steal. This is assuming the rest of the exhaust isn't stainless. What do you guys think? I got a welder and after a few weeks of practicing I'm going to put this header on myself but I didn't get a gas cylinder yet.
Brad
Has anyone done their welding with flux wire? A guy at work told me to use gas if joining stainless steel with mild steal. This is assuming the rest of the exhaust isn't stainless. What do you guys think? I got a welder and after a few weeks of practicing I'm going to put this header on myself but I didn't get a gas cylinder yet.
Brad
#118
#119
#120
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I too thought about a race cat, but I will go with the stocker. I guess there are a few reasons...
While an aftermkt, 200 cell for example, will flow better, our stock one seems to be very much up to the task of eliciting 300+ hp (twincharging). Having not seen a twincharged MCS, I just believe this to be true (that the stock cat is being used). If this is correct, and since I don't envision such power in my MCS, the stock cat should not exactly be a performance-limiting factor...
I can put the 200 bucks saved from purchasing a cat into a ceramic coating...
Being in CA, I feel much better about having the stock cat, along with it's MINI winged logo .
The header is awaiting a new head. Just seems like a good time to do both...
While an aftermkt, 200 cell for example, will flow better, our stock one seems to be very much up to the task of eliciting 300+ hp (twincharging). Having not seen a twincharged MCS, I just believe this to be true (that the stock cat is being used). If this is correct, and since I don't envision such power in my MCS, the stock cat should not exactly be a performance-limiting factor...
I can put the 200 bucks saved from purchasing a cat into a ceramic coating...
Being in CA, I feel much better about having the stock cat, along with it's MINI winged logo .
The header is awaiting a new head. Just seems like a good time to do both...
#121
This pipe does not have a "flex pipe", which the stock and some aftermarket headers have. That device appears to allow a lot of movement. I wonder if the movement of the engine will strain the bolts holding the OBX header to the head or otherwise stress the exhaust system. Has anyone experienced any evidence of a problem using the OBX without some provision for flexibility in the system? I know that it has some type of ball and socket - spring loaded connector, to hook up the cat to. Does this supply sufficient flexibility in the system?
#122
Originally Posted by SteveS
This pipe does not have a "flex pipe", which the stock and some aftermarket headers have. That device appears to allow a lot of movement. I wonder if the movement of the engine will strain the bolts holding the OBX header to the head or otherwise stress the exhaust system. Has anyone experienced any evidence of a problem using the OBX without some provision for flexibility in the system? I know that it has some type of ball and socket - spring loaded connector, to hook up the cat to. Does this supply sufficient flexibility in the system?
hope that helps.
#123
Is there any reason that you would not be able to install the OBX header in your own garage? After reading these posts I get the impression that you could take the OBX adapter and sawed-off cat to a welder while leaving the MINI in the garage. Any problems with this? Also, what is the torque for the header bolts? Thanks.
#124
Originally Posted by JPit
Is there any reason that you would not be able to install the OBX header in your own garage? After reading these posts I get the impression that you could take the OBX adapter and sawed-off cat to a welder while leaving the MINI in the garage. Any problems with this? Also, what is the torque for the header bolts? Thanks.
Brad
#125
I think you may have problems getting the fit right. It is really better to weld it all in place. Just install the header, leave the exhaust in place (but not connected) drive with the open header at low revs to the nearest muffler shop with your old header in the back, and have them cut off the old CAT and weld it in place, connect the exhaust and drive home. It cost me $50. Well worth having the fit correct and using welded slip fit rather than a butt weld. I printed out the photos from this thread to show the guy exactly what I wanted. Big help.