Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain OBX-Racing Header Dyno Results!

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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 04:58 PM
  #101  
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Bomboasy, 4k? I thought my car would fly apart at 3k! I wish I had thought of earplugs, my head rang after only about 4 miles.

This header has definitely reduced, if not eliminated in car resonance from the Magnaflow, and more clearly defined the tone. Less muffled, more crisp. really sounds great. I think the car pulls a bit stronger, and slightly better throttle response. Overall, more than worth the money in my application.(all the usual mods; pulley, intake, exhaust, software, etc).
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 09:02 PM
  #102  
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A comment on open headers.

I was working with a friend on a 50's Chevy pickup. He cracked the torque tube mount, so we had to pull a lot of crap off to get access. He fired it up with open headers (in La Honda, CA a few years ago). One of his neighbors came out of his house. He was deaf. Said it was the first thing he'd heard in 20 years! And he couldn't see the work until he walked up the street. Motors can be LOUD!

Matt
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 09:50 PM
  #103  
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Nerd, acording to obx when I was looking to get a real answer as to what header part number was right for an mcs aplication I was told they only make one header for the mini. I don't know why that other ebay vendor advertize his obx header for non s aplications but he is the reason why I went looking for a real answer, I called obx. Happy motoring!
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 10:01 PM
  #104  
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Thanks Minibrute! Puts me at ease. I ordered it today. but I'll probably wait until I get about a 1000 miles on the Mini before I start with the mods.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 11:20 PM
  #105  
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Nerd, I understand you wanting to get the brake in done before the games begin. I started the mods at 3000 miles with an alta intake and 1 week later came a 15% pulley. That kept me plenty happy for another 24000 miles. At that point I got mth software, a milltek catback and lighter wheels and tires.
Now I'm at almost 38000 miles and have a look below for the current mod list. I'm very pleased with the results. Good luck with your car, is it an 05 ?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 07:19 AM
  #106  
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Ok, I know I keep reporting on this header, but I am amazed at the value.
The car keeps running better as it "learns" the header. Clearly stronger running, and fantastic sound that has improved with driving. I love this thing.

Regarding mods, I liked adding them individually, as then I could fully evaluate each change.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 07:35 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by minibrute
Nerd, I understand you wanting to get the brake in done before the games begin.
The problem is my girlfriend has an 05 Mini that we traded out every other week. I've got plenty of time driving so it's not like my Mini will be something new and keep me excited. I want to start the mods now but figured I'll keep it a little conservative.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 01:51 PM
  #108  
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Anyone know where I can get the OBX Racing header for the MCS? The only vendor I found on eBay (as of yesterday) said that the one he sells is for the MC (non-supercharger only).


Thanks.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 03:31 PM
  #109  
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http://stores.ebay.com/Sparktec-Moto...eNameZl2QQtZkm

I bought mine from Sparktec. Low price, quick shipping.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 03:59 PM
  #110  
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DK23,
That is also where I got mine.

Bomboasy
 
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 05:16 PM
  #111  
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On the stock header there is that braided part. Is that a flex joint of some type? I'm assuming everyone is not adding something like this when they put on their OBX headers.

Brad
 
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 09:02 PM
  #112  
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On page 2 of this thread, BlueMiniMe commented on this:

"The flex joint is exactly like the Supersprint, and is a method I've seen and used on race bikes, more than a few years ago. Its still a somewhat popular method for joining exhaust work where you need some flex. It works like a ball and socket. The main piece has like a hollow "ball", then the rear portion is the socket. The portion that is the ball, is a high-temp gasket which fits onto the collector, and holds and seals into the socket. A nice feature as opposed to metal on metal, which would certainly wear out in time."

This "ball and socket" does the same thing as the "braided part". It seems to be a proven method.

Bomboasy
 
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 09:50 PM
  #113  
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Okay, I get it now. I already have the ball and socket with mine. That one took me a little while. LMAO.

Has anyone done their welding with flux wire? A guy at work told me to use gas if joining stainless steel with mild steal. This is assuming the rest of the exhaust isn't stainless. What do you guys think? I got a welder and after a few weeks of practicing I'm going to put this header on myself but I didn't get a gas cylinder yet.

Brad
 
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 11:54 PM
  #114  
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We mig welded the adapter (socket piece) with a butt joint to my OEM CAT. 2 months and its still solid.



Originally Posted by nerd
Okay, I get it now. I already have the ball and socket with mine. That one took me a little while. LMAO.

Has anyone done their welding with flux wire? A guy at work told me to use gas if joining stainless steel with mild steal. This is assuming the rest of the exhaust isn't stainless. What do you guys think? I got a welder and after a few weeks of practicing I'm going to put this header on myself but I didn't get a gas cylinder yet.

Brad
 
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 06:47 AM
  #115  
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just took delivery of my Mini yesterday. i have the Alta intake and the OBX header sitting right here to install after break-in.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 07:18 AM
  #116  
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What Cat are you guys running standard?
 
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 03:04 PM
  #117  
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I am thinking of getting one. Anyone here can recommend a shop in SOCAL that you used to do the welding/install?
 
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 03:10 PM
  #118  
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Have steve install it. Any compitnet muffler shop should be able to do th ewelding with zero problems. Installing the header and welding the cat is a no brainer.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 04:14 PM
  #119  
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I used the stock CAT. There is not a lot of room, so any aftermarket hi flow CAT would have to be pretty short. I agree any muffler shop can do the welding easily. I paid $50 for all the cutting, fitting and welding.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 04:53 PM
  #120  
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I too thought about a race cat, but I will go with the stocker. I guess there are a few reasons...

While an aftermkt, 200 cell for example, will flow better, our stock one seems to be very much up to the task of eliciting 300+ hp (twincharging). Having not seen a twincharged MCS, I just believe this to be true (that the stock cat is being used). If this is correct, and since I don't envision such power in my MCS, the stock cat should not exactly be a performance-limiting factor...

I can put the 200 bucks saved from purchasing a cat into a ceramic coating...

Being in CA, I feel much better about having the stock cat, along with it's MINI winged logo .

The header is awaiting a new head. Just seems like a good time to do both...
 
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Old Apr 10, 2005 | 12:36 PM
  #121  
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This pipe does not have a "flex pipe", which the stock and some aftermarket headers have. That device appears to allow a lot of movement. I wonder if the movement of the engine will strain the bolts holding the OBX header to the head or otherwise stress the exhaust system. Has anyone experienced any evidence of a problem using the OBX without some provision for flexibility in the system? I know that it has some type of ball and socket - spring loaded connector, to hook up the cat to. Does this supply sufficient flexibility in the system?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2005 | 12:45 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by SteveS
This pipe does not have a "flex pipe", which the stock and some aftermarket headers have. That device appears to allow a lot of movement. I wonder if the movement of the engine will strain the bolts holding the OBX header to the head or otherwise stress the exhaust system. Has anyone experienced any evidence of a problem using the OBX without some provision for flexibility in the system? I know that it has some type of ball and socket - spring loaded connector, to hook up the cat to. Does this supply sufficient flexibility in the system?
Worry not, Steve. Although uncommon, this ball & socket arrangement is used quite a bit in the OEM and racing worlds with great success. I've been under my car monthly to keep an eye on my welds, and I make a point of looking at the flex joint. There is no evidence of over-flex. This joint has perhaps 20 degrees of flex in any direction from center. And while one might believe that those spring loaded bolts wouldnt' keep a tight seal, its simplly not the case. They provide more than adequate clamping force in this arrangement.

hope that helps.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 10:17 PM
  #123  
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Is there any reason that you would not be able to install the OBX header in your own garage? After reading these posts I get the impression that you could take the OBX adapter and sawed-off cat to a welder while leaving the MINI in the garage. Any problems with this? Also, what is the torque for the header bolts? Thanks.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 10:49 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by JPit
Is there any reason that you would not be able to install the OBX header in your own garage? After reading these posts I get the impression that you could take the OBX adapter and sawed-off cat to a welder while leaving the MINI in the garage. Any problems with this? Also, what is the torque for the header bolts? Thanks.
This is my plan. I'm going to fit it in the garage as far as where to cut then bring it to a welder.

Brad
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 05:11 AM
  #125  
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I think you may have problems getting the fit right. It is really better to weld it all in place. Just install the header, leave the exhaust in place (but not connected) drive with the open header at low revs to the nearest muffler shop with your old header in the back, and have them cut off the old CAT and weld it in place, connect the exhaust and drive home. It cost me $50. Well worth having the fit correct and using welded slip fit rather than a butt weld. I printed out the photos from this thread to show the guy exactly what I wanted. Big help.
 
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