Drivetrain OBX-Racing Header Dyno Results!
I'm tempted to buy this header. I'm in SoCal though and am concerned about smog inspection. The header removes the pre-cat. Would this affect smog inspection? CARB (California Air Resources Board provides certification for some aftermarket items. I think aftermarket headers are covered, and obviously this header does not have such certification. Would this likely cause a problem?
I can't comment specifically to the OBX, but don't see why one header should be different than another when it comes to emissions test. I don't have to get sniffed where I live, so I can't specifically address the OBX. However, there are several members who have done headers and kept either the factory CAT or installed an aftermarket CAT. With the possible exception, generally all who have reported here state that they have passed their local state tests with systems that do not have a "pre-CAT". I surmise that the pre-CAT is not critical to passing a sniff test.
Well, if you attach the MINI cat, I'd be quite certain that there will be no problem. With that said, I wouldn't want to get an improved flow header, and then put the stock cat on; as opposed to higher flow one...
My plan would be to keep the stock header in tact. Come inspection time, I'd figure on an hour or so to swap it back... I think once folks start smogin' their MINI's, we'll learn what to expect. Maybe just having a cat will suffice
Time will tell... as always...
My plan would be to keep the stock header in tact. Come inspection time, I'd figure on an hour or so to swap it back... I think once folks start smogin' their MINI's, we'll learn what to expect. Maybe just having a cat will suffice
Time will tell... as always...
I recieved my header today, looks very well built.
I cant see any possible way any of the high priced headers could come close to being worth the difference in price. At less than $200 delivered to the door and it being a 4/2/1 header ( tri Y or whatever term you want to use ) I also seriously doubt any of the higher priced headers wil make any more power than this one will make. Even if they do make more what are we talking 1 hp difference ??
Bottom line is if you are looking for a header and arent looking to break the bank this header is well worth the money. I havent actually installed it yet
but I will report back as soon as I do. Looks like from other posts install is a no brainer and the header fits very well.
So far I am impressed !
I cant see any possible way any of the high priced headers could come close to being worth the difference in price. At less than $200 delivered to the door and it being a 4/2/1 header ( tri Y or whatever term you want to use ) I also seriously doubt any of the higher priced headers wil make any more power than this one will make. Even if they do make more what are we talking 1 hp difference ??
Bottom line is if you are looking for a header and arent looking to break the bank this header is well worth the money. I havent actually installed it yet
but I will report back as soon as I do. Looks like from other posts install is a no brainer and the header fits very well.So far I am impressed !
I checked dealer price on new cat. It is part of header, not sold separately. Price $938 or so. I would not want to cut up the factory header incase I needed it to pass smog. I assume you can get hi flow aftermarket cat to adapt. Any recommendations?
JCW uses same header and cat per parts man at crevier.
JCW uses same header and cat per parts man at crevier.
Hi Steve. The ATP cat mentioned earlier is high flow, staineless, less than 200 bucks, and jlm (and others I believe) are using it on the MINI with no issues. knowing that it will not throw codes is huge for me. It would be my first choice...
I just got back from geting the cat welded back up and all seems pretty good ! The header fit nicely and the sound is roughly the same although slighly deeper and maybe even a little smoother sounding. I have to drive it a bit to decide if it was really worth it or not but so far so good
Ok, seat of the pants dyno says it was well worth the time and $$ for the header. I dont know if it actually made more power or not but it sure feels nice, smooth and the wot is really crisp now. It also comes onto the band so nicely now !!
I give the obx header a 2 thumbs up at this point.
I give the obx header a 2 thumbs up at this point.
what comes in the box?
I just got my obx header and think I'm missing something, here is what came in the box:
1. Head/header gasket
2. header
3. small joint pipe and flange
4. 2 bolts, nuts and springs
I think I'm missing some kind of gasket for the flex joint, Am I?
Thanx.
I got word from detlman, I'm missing the round gasket for the flex joint.
Thanx.
1. Head/header gasket
2. header
3. small joint pipe and flange
4. 2 bolts, nuts and springs
I think I'm missing some kind of gasket for the flex joint, Am I?
Thanx.
I got word from detlman, I'm missing the round gasket for the flex joint.
Thanx.
Last edited by minibrute; Feb 24, 2005 at 03:38 PM. Reason: Thank you detlman
Aaaaarrrrrrrggggggg
I had a frustrating day looking for the donut type gasket my header is missing . I went to two muffler shops and no luck. I was able to get in touch with obx but they gave me the runaround and told me to go talk to my vendor. I emailed sparktec and they emailed back but it looks like I may be waiting for the stupid gasket untill who knows when. The beauty and horror of ebay, gotta love it.
For the donut type gasket
go to a NAPA or any good auto parts store. Ask to look through thier Walker muffler catalog. Those things are used on a lot of truck exhaust systems to connect the header to exhaust pipe.
Here is a budget idea I used in building a custom exhaust for a 2 liter 4 banger about 5 years ago, it is still in service and pass's emissions with no lights. First off all CAT's that I have ever seen are made of stainless, they have to be to take the heat. I sourced a 2.5" inlet and outlet after market (replacement part) CAT designed for a GM 350 V8, it has a ceramic element you can see through. Any way that matched my headers collector size and after welding a flange on one end and a exhaust ball scocket on the muffler end. Worked great for me.
Let's try to think outside the box.
Here is a budget idea I used in building a custom exhaust for a 2 liter 4 banger about 5 years ago, it is still in service and pass's emissions with no lights. First off all CAT's that I have ever seen are made of stainless, they have to be to take the heat. I sourced a 2.5" inlet and outlet after market (replacement part) CAT designed for a GM 350 V8, it has a ceramic element you can see through. Any way that matched my headers collector size and after welding a flange on one end and a exhaust ball scocket on the muffler end. Worked great for me.
Let's try to think outside the box.
Thank you norm03s, I heard back from sparktec so I'll be getting the part from them in one week
. I'm going to buy a second header from them, it's just such a good deal. I'll have the second header ceramic coated and put away for later when my first header needs replacement. How's that for thinking out of the box ?
. I'm going to buy a second header from them, it's just such a good deal. I'll have the second header ceramic coated and put away for later when my first header needs replacement. How's that for thinking out of the box ?
Pre-CAT stays with the factory header. This header replaces everything from the head to the main CAT. From this point you essentially have 3 choices: Weld factory main CAT to header adapter; weld or clamp new CAT to header adapter; or weld or clamp header adapter to the rest of the exhaust system foregoing the CAT altogether.
Originally Posted by nerd
I think I'm a little lost on this one. If I choose not to keep the pre-cat then do I still have do any welding or is it truly bolt-in like the eBay page says?
Originally Posted by detlman
I also seriously doubt any of the higher priced headers wil make any more power than this one will make. Even if they do make more what are we talking 1 hp difference ??
http://performanceweldingheaders.com/headertech.htm
for some explanation. A correctly designed header takes LOTS of stuff into account, and is dependant on the rest of the motor.
This doesn't mean that this isn't a good product, but if you want the best, you go custom, and there are header builders that will take into account the exact build of the motor, and where you want the power. For a tri-y you can play with three tube diameters, two tube lengths and more. Gettimg it optimized is no easy job.
Matt
Originally Posted by BluMiniMe
Pre-CAT stays with the factory header. This header replaces everything from the head to the main CAT. From this point you essentially have 3 choices: Weld factory main CAT to header adapter; weld or clamp new CAT to header adapter; or weld or clamp header adapter to the rest of the exhaust system foregoing the CAT altogether.
MiamiE,
With careful cutting, and measuring, you can squeeze this header in with the factory CAT. There is perhaps 2" of pipe on the adapter that you can trim down, in addition to cutting down the factory CAT. Do this, and you can keep the flange to flange joint between the factory CAT and the stock exhaust. I found this easy and was happy I didn't have to mess with cutting and welding in a bung for the post-CAT O2 sensor-- no biggie, was just one less detail I had to concern myself with.
After I cut down the factory CAT (as described above), and butt-welded it to the header adapter, I was about 1/2" long. Not a problem for me since my Borla exhaust is somewhat adjustable. I envision that you could take this 1/2" off of the header adapter before you weld to the CAT, and it would fit? I suspect there could easily be differences in our cars that might mean more or less than this 1/2", though. Only measuring it out for yourself will tell.
With very careful measuring and shopping, you can possibly find an aftermarket CAT that could be cut, welded/clamped into the same space as the factory CAT. Its been done successfully as well. I'd measure it out for you, but its quite likely our cars will differ enough that I wouldn't want you to trust it.
With careful cutting, and measuring, you can squeeze this header in with the factory CAT. There is perhaps 2" of pipe on the adapter that you can trim down, in addition to cutting down the factory CAT. Do this, and you can keep the flange to flange joint between the factory CAT and the stock exhaust. I found this easy and was happy I didn't have to mess with cutting and welding in a bung for the post-CAT O2 sensor-- no biggie, was just one less detail I had to concern myself with.
After I cut down the factory CAT (as described above), and butt-welded it to the header adapter, I was about 1/2" long. Not a problem for me since my Borla exhaust is somewhat adjustable. I envision that you could take this 1/2" off of the header adapter before you weld to the CAT, and it would fit? I suspect there could easily be differences in our cars that might mean more or less than this 1/2", though. Only measuring it out for yourself will tell.
With very careful measuring and shopping, you can possibly find an aftermarket CAT that could be cut, welded/clamped into the same space as the factory CAT. Its been done successfully as well. I'd measure it out for you, but its quite likely our cars will differ enough that I wouldn't want you to trust it.
Originally Posted by MiamiE
i to am purchasing this header for my new Mini, but have one question. im looking to adding the header but keeping my stock exhaust system. is any welding necessary to get the new header system back on to the stock exhaust. im assuming the OBX header rings a new cat correct?
HIe guys,
I'm planning to get this OBX header for my MCS. I have a problem to decide whether I should get a new CAT or reuse back the OEM CAT. I was told by one of our famous tuner that there is NO point/benefit if we reuse the OEM CAT with the OBX header. There wouldn't be so much gain of power, waste of money. He suggested that I should get the header that comes with the CAT, but yes... it is quite pricey.
Header+OEM CAT or Header+New CAT? Any comments guys?
I'm planning to get this OBX header for my MCS. I have a problem to decide whether I should get a new CAT or reuse back the OEM CAT. I was told by one of our famous tuner that there is NO point/benefit if we reuse the OEM CAT with the OBX header. There wouldn't be so much gain of power, waste of money. He suggested that I should get the header that comes with the CAT, but yes... it is quite pricey.
Header+OEM CAT or Header+New CAT? Any comments guys?
well i really do not want to go with the OEM cat myself, but i havent really looked to see if someone makes a CAT for the MCS without the header. does anyone know if someone manufactures the CAT alone?


