Drivetrain Clutch/flywheel
Clutch/flywheel
It's time for a new clutch, & since I have extracted considerably more power than stock out of my car, I thought I'd go with a stronger clutch. I'm looking for recommendations based on real world experience. I would not be opposed to a dual disk clutch — if it had a smooth engagement (remember, this is still a street car). I don't want a strictly in-out clutch. It seems that most of the dual disk clutches use ceramic/metallic friction material which makes for a very sudden engagement.
I'm also looking at a lighter flywheel, so feedback on that is welcomed as well.
Let's keep this thread on track, intelligent, & informative please; only comment if you have firsthand experience.
I'm also looking at a lighter flywheel, so feedback on that is welcomed as well.
Let's keep this thread on track, intelligent, & informative please; only comment if you have firsthand experience.
Last edited by cut7; Apr 16, 2020 at 04:39 PM.
I installed a Valeo single-mass unit in my R53 that runs 220hp. The kit includes the disk, pressure plate, flywheel and TO bearing. It has a very light, easily engaged peddle and handles my HP with no problem. Plus it's reasonable as the whole kit is around $350.
Do you know what your flywheel weighs?
It is not a lightweight flywheel. The stock dual-mass and the Valeo single-mass flywheel both weigh in the neighborhood of 24-25 lbs. Personally, I wouldn't run a lightweight flywheel on a daily driver due to momentum loss.
Well the most important thing you really need to think about is an LSD while doing this no matter what clutch you use. As that is the only way to actually get the power down.
As for clutches the stock clutch will handle 250hp and will be the smoothest for street and daily use.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/stock-...-cooper-s.html
If you are dead set on not going with stock and want a lighter flywheel we have had the best luck with the South Bend stage 2 as it feels just a hair stiffer than stock, but revs faster and for sure has more clamping force
https://www.waymotorworks.com/south-...t-r52-r53.html
As for clutches the stock clutch will handle 250hp and will be the smoothest for street and daily use.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/stock-...-cooper-s.html
If you are dead set on not going with stock and want a lighter flywheel we have had the best luck with the South Bend stage 2 as it feels just a hair stiffer than stock, but revs faster and for sure has more clamping force
https://www.waymotorworks.com/south-...t-r52-r53.html
I run a SPEC aluminum flywheel in my R53 and just installed a Valeo in our R52. I have to say the Valeo was a nice addition to the R52. Defiantly revs quicker and feels a bit quicker. As for the SPEC really enjoy how quickly it revs and and how it drives but you do get some chatter from the trans with this set up the Valeo nothing.
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So I opted for a Clutch Masters 5 Kg (11 Lb) aluminum flywheel & the matching clutch from the aforementioned company. After driving for several weeks with it, I'd like to share my experience with the community. I realize that a mod like this is highly subjective; what may be acceptable for some may not be for others. That being said, here are my impressions:
There is definitely some gearbox chatter that wasn't there before. It goes away as soon as I disengage the clutch; it's only noticeable at idle or parking lot velocity; as soon as I get up to speed, it becomes much quieter. It revs faster than with the stock flywheel, but not as fast as I would like...or expected. I did stall it a few times when I first installed the clutch, but I have adapted to it very quickly. There isn't much loss of momentum, so to me, it's not anymore difficult to drive than stock (but I like a free-revving motor with a high redline).
There is definitely some gearbox chatter that wasn't there before. It goes away as soon as I disengage the clutch; it's only noticeable at idle or parking lot velocity; as soon as I get up to speed, it becomes much quieter. It revs faster than with the stock flywheel, but not as fast as I would like...or expected. I did stall it a few times when I first installed the clutch, but I have adapted to it very quickly. There isn't much loss of momentum, so to me, it's not anymore difficult to drive than stock (but I like a free-revving motor with a high redline).
WayMotorWorks, the Southbend kit looks like a very streetable set-up. Very similar to what I did with my old Sentra SE-R with a stock clutch and a lightened steel flywheel.
What is the weight difference between their flywheel and a stock R53 flywheel? And is the engagement point about the same as a stock clutch?
What is the weight difference between their flywheel and a stock R53 flywheel? And is the engagement point about the same as a stock clutch?
The stock dual-mass flywheel weighs 27 lbs by itself, not including the clutch. My aluminum flywheel is 11 lbs, so a substantial difference. The clutch cover & disk weigh about the same no matter what setup you go with.
More flywheel weights
Stock flywheel: 26.4# for R53 (and 17# for R50)
Valeo Single-mass: 24#
Clutchmaster: 18#
ACT: 14#
South Bend: 21#
Exidy: 19.2#
All of the above weights are for steel flywheels. A number of companies also make lighter aluminum flywheels (that will require a steel friction surface to be attached, and can warp over time). The lighter aluminum ones are are much more prone to be noisy or "ringy" at idle in neutral, and will be more challenging to launch smoothly (especially on a hill), because you don't have as much stored energy as you had with that 26 pound stocker
. . . that and the R53 having less torque at 1500RPM than the R50 has (less compression, and boost hasn't kicked-in). Hence, the heavier stock flywheel on the R53 vs. R50.
Last edited by Mini_Crazy; Sep 28, 2020 at 10:05 PM.
I'm looking into a new clutch assembly now too.
I just ordered a new differential, being that the factory one is broken..! Even though my 05 only has just over 20,000 miles, I figure I may as well install a fresh clutch assembly since it will be apart.
No light flywheels here. I've done enough drag racing to understand, even though a light flywheel sounds cool, they have no place in helping the car leave a standing stop well.
Looking at the South Bend and the Valeo kits. Big cost difference. Will have to do some studying on what each is all about.
Mike
I just ordered a new differential, being that the factory one is broken..! Even though my 05 only has just over 20,000 miles, I figure I may as well install a fresh clutch assembly since it will be apart.
No light flywheels here. I've done enough drag racing to understand, even though a light flywheel sounds cool, they have no place in helping the car leave a standing stop well.
Looking at the South Bend and the Valeo kits. Big cost difference. Will have to do some studying on what each is all about.
Mike
Look at the exedy kit too. I got mine from rock auto for just a little more than the valeo and I'm very happy with it. There is some more noticeable chatter at low speeds, but it revs nicely, and I don't have trouble leaving the line after getting used to the clutch.
It's time for a new clutch, & since I have extracted considerably more power than stock out of my car, I thought I'd go with a stronger clutch. I'm looking for recommendations based on real world experience. I would not be opposed to a dual disk clutch — if it had a smooth engagement (remember, this is still a street car). I don't want a strictly in-out clutch. It seems that most of the dual disk clutches use ceramic/metallic friction material which makes for a very sudden engagement.
I'm also looking at a lighter flywheel, so feedback on that is welcomed as well.
Let's keep this thread on track, intelligent, & informative please; only comment if you have firsthand experience.
I'm also looking at a lighter flywheel, so feedback on that is welcomed as well.
Let's keep this thread on track, intelligent, & informative please; only comment if you have firsthand experience.
when pulled I found the flywheel cracked! The clutch wasn’t that roaches but wondering why it has a crack in it.
Well...the most obvious answer would be...excessive heat. That heat is caused by excessive slippage. Easy as that.
Excessive heat has left its mark all the way (?) around the surface. The dark areas are also left by excessive heat. I see many more cracks than just the area that you circled.
So now the question is...where did that excessive slippage come from ?
1. Bad clutch control ?
2. Excessive horsepower, more power than that clutch could handle?
Mike
Excessive heat has left its mark all the way (?) around the surface. The dark areas are also left by excessive heat. I see many more cracks than just the area that you circled.
So now the question is...where did that excessive slippage come from ?
1. Bad clutch control ?
2. Excessive horsepower, more power than that clutch could handle?
Mike
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