I know this was discussed months ago. Has anyone attempted to re-interface fit the oem pulley? Bake it in the oven to 500 degrees, etc.
Can it be cranked back onto the shaft with a 13mm bolt in the threaded shaft end...basically a reversal of removal.

 

WHY do you want to replace your pulley? does that mean u want the STOCK pulley BACK ON????????!

-Paul

 

Yes.







I have my reasons.... (some regulars have probably figured out why... )

 

i dont know if this will help, but if i recall correctly, i thought their was a company that sold a stock size pulley that was the same type as the reduction ones

 

 

Bisch,
Might it be less expensive overall to grab a stock supercharger off eBay? They appear now and then ...

 

Going for STX perhaps?

 

Nope. Not STX but "TC".

hahaha

Have fun, Bischy!

Marty

 

Your pulley is two parts right? I know Helix sells several sizes, and think they have a stock size too. Would that be good enough? Or do you have to have the actual stock pulley?

 

TC?

 

i knew their was someone out there that knew the company,lol

 

I don't wanna be the one to spill the beans.


Marty

 

does the TC stand for t--- c--r-e- fill in the blanks

 

pfft! [BOV sound]

at least that's my guess...

 

Did you mean t _ _ _ _ c _ _ _ _ _ _


------
| ...|
| ...0
| ..-|-
| ...^
|
|
------

 

Actually, if you are replacing (returning) the stock pulley, the safest way to install it is to run a long bolt or threaded rod into the blower shaft first, then add the preheated pulley, a thick washer (or two) then a nut. Crank the nut down the threaded rod to press the pulley onto the shaft. Reason for this is that the threads in the supercharger shaft might be a bit softer than the bolt you would be using, plus not very deep. You dont want to strip the shaft threads out, nor do you want to bottom the bolt out during the pressing process. Doing the latter will allow the assembly to cool and tighten up while you are scrambling to find washers or a shorter bolt.

 

I think Helix has an interference (shrink fit) hub with a bolt on stock size pulley.
Same heating procedure is used but theirs has a stop on the hub so alignment is a no brainer.
I want them to make (jlm) an OEM size pulley for the two piece compression style which I have. So then you could go OEM, 15%, 17%, 19%.

 

it's in the works; it will be a piggy though.

 

Thanks, thats GREAT news!:smile:

 

I have heard from at least two reputable sources that the OEM pulley is warped when pulled. Can anyone confirm/deny this?


Marty

 

i thikn you and me are thinking the same thing, but i think your first word might have and extra letter

 

I have a few of them here. One is toast. Two look to be true.

 

I was thinking your first word was missing a letter...

edit - I get it now :smile:

 

you guys are both right.


Bisch, I'd go with the P&D pulley that Helix sells (or is rumored to - I dunno if that's what jlm is referring to here). You have an ALTA now, right? Should be an easy swap.

Keep up posted on your "new developments."

Marty

 

I can't find a good pic of the original pulley on the shaft of the SC. Anyone have a close-up? Better yet, is the oem pulley hub flush with the end of the shaft? I seem to remember it was set a little deeper than flush...anyone with specs? I'm gonna heat it and screw it.


BTW, if anyone is installing a 19% or greater boost, and plan on romping the snot out of it, my suggestion would be to re-torque your head bolts first...before it's too late.