Have not yet heard a satisfying response from anyone who has been much more knowledgable about this subject than I. Hopefully I'll hear a definitive response from you all!

Replaced clutch and flywheel (you'll know why if you have seen the video on my website...), and replaced the throwout bearing as well, per UUC Motorwerks request. (Side question: I have been told to replace the stock, used throwout bearing with another stock one instead of the UUC - any ideas on that subject as well? The reason I ask is because a friend with the same clutch and flywheel stated that the bearing rattles against the pressure plate as it is a different diameter than the stock one, and thus should be replaced with a new stock one and not the UUC....)

There are two tabs on the throwout bearing that face against the clutch release. When I removed the stock bearing, the tabs were aligned against the release, but were not 'clipped in' or attached in any way, as I would have thought they would be.

When inserting the new throwout bearing on the input shaft, I aligned it as the stock one looked, and re-installed the transmission. While aligning the transmission onto the motor, the clutch release was depressed, and may have changed the alignment of the bearing against the clutch release.

Now for the question: is this a problem? Is it supposed to be aligned a certain way, or even clipped in? Do I need to pull the transmission back off and set the bearing correctly? When speaking with my distributor, Mr. Arjun Sound of UUC Motorwerks, I was told that there was no problem with it being the way that it is. I have ceased completion of the installation because of this one fact - if I need to go back and correct this situation, I can do so readily, if not, I can easily restart work on the project.

Thanks in advance!

 

from what I can see, those tabs are there to grip the arms of the throwout lever. If you move the lever far enough, (bell housing off the engine), the tabs will disconnect. gripping the lever will allow the throwout bearing to retract fully and not remain in contact with the pressure plate fingers. They also pervent the non-rotating part of the throwout bearing from rotating.


If you moved the lever forward (release diretion) while installing, it is possible the clips dis-engaged; not a good thing.

 

I hear when I start up and it is idling. The noise stops when I push in the clutch. This clutch has not been abused in case anyone one is wondering.
Is there an inspection plate anywhere on the bell housing to peek in to see if the tabs are engaged on the throw out bearing?

 

There is not, which is unfortunate, because that damn Getrag is one heavy little %*(^#$#!!!!!

Oh well, if I have to rip the tranny back off right now while its got 6 of 9 bolts attached to the engine, then better now than never, I suppose. No word yet on the stock bearing vs. the aftermarket one from UUC.

jlm, also, how does the bearing attach to the lever? When I removed the stock one, I didn't see any way it attached to it physically, I saw that the two tabs, which I've heard are also known as 'ears' on the bearing have clips that look as if they socket into the lever, but no where on it did I see any way of clipping it in as you suggest. Any more information on that you can give me would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

Assuming you mean that you put in a lightened flywheel, the noise you hear is most likely from that. When you depress the clutch the trans isn't turning and the noise goes away. Also, the throwout bearing is loaded and you won't hear that noise either. My noise varies from a bad tappet sound to a slight clicking. If it remains constant you are probably OK. If you are going to have to open it up anyway wait till it fails.

 

I have heard the rattle on my bud's MCS with a light flywheel kit.
I brought this up with my service advisor earlie on at 10,000 check.
He said they had examined other cars and found no improper wear points or other problems. I mean the clutch functions the way it should but it makes this noise and that bugs me. If this was a rear wheel drive chevy, mopar or ford, that trans. would be out and I'd have a look.
It just sounds like the throw out bearing is bouncing around in there and if there are retaining clips to posistion the bearing in the yoke as in some other cars I've worked on I don't know why it would be making contact with the pressure plate without a foot on the pedal. Is there a sleeve on the trans. main shaft that the bearing slides over?

 

update (and final answer)

the throwout bearing is NOT attached to the lever whatsoever.... i just finished taking down the transmission, and reinstalling it from its previous (uncompleted) state - it is, however, simply aligned with it, and the tabs or "ears" as i said earlier, are just there to assist in the process of staying in....

worst news of the day - the bearing WAS in fact aligned, and i had no reason to remove the transmission.... but now i finished installing it knowing good and well that the bearing was aligned properly, and if there's any rattling other than the flywheel, i'll know i should have installed a new stock replacement!!

sorry i forgot to take pictures..... you get the idea though!

 

after examining mine on the bench:

the forked arms of the lever are held in contact with the throwout bearing by a spring portion of the tab. Once clicked in, the bearing will follow the lever in and out as it moves through its engagement-disengagement travel. As it travels, the action of the lever makes it possible for the forked arms to come out of the clips when the travel is excessive...like moving the lever most of the way when the bell housing is not mounted to the engine. Under normal operation, the pressure plate will prevent that much movement.

If the clip were to become disengaged during bell housing install, there is nothing to ensure that the throwout bearing would re-clip itself to the lever forked arms. In which case, the clutch action would function, but at the least, the bearing would not be positively retracted by the fork and it would rattle.

 

I'll live with it until the clutch needs attention. That could be awhile on my last car I got 150,000 miles out of the OEM clutch. In truth I nursed the last 10,000 out of it because it would slip on hard acceleration. Post mortem on that one was the disk still had life left but the pressure plate rivets failed and the throw out bearing was dragging.

FastLaneTuning, didn't I see pictures of what was left of your clutch disk after burn outs at Nopie Nationals?

 

if your browser says that this was a previously visited link....

http://www.thenewfastlane.com/gallery.asp

....then yes, you probably did see the destruction!!! haha

 

Looks kinna like jlm's except with hair.