Feeling is mutual. You impress me as someone that is well read and rounded. I suspect you are a liberal studies major from how well you write - and I say that as a compliment. From one of your photo which you slipped (or intended for those who scrutinizes) on the reflection you are quite young.

I actually browsed JCW online catalog and I was shock that you can find some goodies for gen 1 Mini's.

 

I have been buying so many gifts for Desire and so often when a package shows up, I scratch my head and wondering what it could be.

This rather dense box showed up today and it's from DNA Motoring. Looks like a set of high flow injector, or may be a tuning dongle but I could not remember I order anything like these of late. May be a firmware or hardware update from a diagnostic tools that I bought.

It turns out to be a racing tow ring. Well at least poser racy. It is like something you get from JCW (JC Whitney) so I curbed my enthusiasm knowing it is not just plug and play. I wasn't just going to screw it on and declare victory as I hate to lose it on the track during the first warmup lap.

the packaging looks a million



First step is to dissect it and find design or manufacturing defects. Defects there are, almost every aspect. Don't expect the tiny set screw to hang around long. Its purpose is to hold the steel collar equally divided between the tug of war by the two hex head bolts that secure the aluminium ring to the pivot head. The stepped holes of the AL ring for the hex socket head are questionable, as it is only slightly smaller diameter than the OD of the head of the two hex socket head bolts.

Even when I decided to risk my $10 I knew I would need to loctite many threads of this thing so the piece parts don't disassemble themselves on the track.

dissected the tow ring to examine defects - and found a few design defects


I test fitted the tow ring. When fully screwed on snug the ring is crooked - which I expected. The thing is I want the least protrusion possible and I knew I can modify it.




the no thrill MINI casted iron tow ring has a shoulder which slips into the recesses of the bumper crash structure, but the new one has a dubious and unnecessary hex feature; my idea is to ground it away so the tow ring protrusion would significantly reduced


without loctite these piece parts will disassemble themselves on the track; the pointless set screw would be the first to go


a bit of work on the bench grinder I removed the hex feature and made it into a smooth shoulder similar to the MINI tow ring; I gained may be 1/2" more inboard


I was hoping that the thread engagement change will give me another chance that, when tighten the ring will hinge at the right angle. But I wasn't counting on the odds, and it didn't turn out that way. Next I use red Loctite to secure all the threads except the ACME-thread that engages to the bumper.

I picked the silver one over other colours as it does not scream neon. One good thing is Desire would not know this is a $10 nose ring as opposed to the $125 Rennline he dreams of.

 

I came across this trying to spend some excess money.

I am most impressed with the detail dimensions


Would like to see the face of the track tow truck guy trying to pull the Mini out of the sand trap.

I should get one to jazz up the espresso machine, or the Costco tote box I use at the track.

 

It has been too bloody hot these few days with peak temperature of over 80s. Help is on the way and looks like we would have a cool overcast track day. I count our blessing every time we have a day like that and no rain.





I have been doing a lot of research on open and closed car trailers. Closed ones are out for being too heavy. The nice open AL trailers new cost more than most people pay for their pre-owned Mini. Parking and storage is my thorny issue needs to sorted out before any movement. I like the Trailex CT-8045 with the open floor in the middle that can be used for poor man's car lift, or more like modern grease pit.

and the options adds up fast to $9k from the $6231 low base price just like buying a Mini

 

trailering a street car to that track is quite ironic don't you think?

 

Yes and no. You just never know what can happen at the track. With a trailer I would be much more comfortable to explore distant tracks. Being able to spend a night at the track and let Desire think he is a natural born tack animal is another excuse. And last and not least is able to take a nap between sessions in air conditioned bed and have a real meal.

Just got off the phone on a Q&A session with Trailex. The problem is with this wide of a trailer getting it from Ohio to OR is a major expense unless you are resourceful or take a trip there.

 

I hear you on the trailer. I just found the name of the car and wanting to trailer it ironic. The reasoning behind it is extraordinarily sound and reasonable.


I'll be taking the rear seats out of my car this week in prep for Friday. I changed my oil last week. First time using the Fumoto ball valve drain plug. I love it. So simple and easy to use. After chewing up about 6 plugs just for my Justa, Constance, and 2 in the Cooper S, Dodger, I figured that it was time to try something new. My wife got Dodger to be an autox car but later decided to stop racing. Dodger is short for Cone Dodger. Constance was given that name as there was little consistency in my life when I got her and needed something to be a constant.


I also think that my Megan Racing coil overs are a partly (or mostly) shot. More body roll than there should be with their current settings. I'll be pulling the rears off (as I haven't installed the remote cables for the rear dampeners) to crank up the valves to a more track oriented setting (more than they already are) and see if that changes anything. The track event should tell me a lot. I wouldn't say that they are unsafe, the springs seem to be super tight at 9kg/mm fronts and 8kg/mm rear... or is it 8 in front and 7 rear. I think that they changed the spring rates since I got them 6 years ago...

 

I am slowly warming up to the Fumoto drain and done a bit of thinking since I originally express my concern should the lever accidentally decides to rotate itself. Is it really a ball valve as you mention. I am under the impression it is a spring loaded compression valve of sort. I will feel infinitely more comfortable if it is a real ball valve. The F-106N is supposed to include the plastic safety per Fumoto, but yet when you buy it from Amazon, it is not included. You have to spend another $7 for it. One thing few mention is it raise the drain hole by may be 3/16" so there will be that much oil that you cannot drain out.

I like Constance wanting to be more constant, and too Dodge as cone dodger.

Are you sure the Megan is 7 or 8 kg/mm. Those are track car crazy stiff. My Swift are 5 front and 5.5 rear, and are very nice on road and quite adequate on track. I seriously doubt the Megans are that high.




Increasing the rebound on the Megan will do little to reduce the lean. You have to have crazy amount of compression damping to reduce the initial onset of lean and that only reduce the transient.

I haven't touch my Koni's rebound damping since installing them. They are a bit jaunty in winter on road but perfect on mild days. Do be aware a lot of economy class dampers adjustments are not linear nor matched.

 

I cannot remember the exact numbers, but the ones that they sell now are softer then the ones that I have. I have the EuroII and their web site says 6 and 6. Mine, if I call correctly were stiffer than that. The Megan Racing R50 exhaust is also different now with 2.25" diameter where mine is 2.5". I will try to dig up the info, I think that I have highly comical translated "instructions" some where. I think that it had the rates. It may have 6kg/mm front and 7kg/mm rear - which would be more reasonable but when I got them the suspension was crazy stiff. I can see how most people wouldn't want coil overs. even on their softest setting they were way stiffer than stock. I may be going to the adjustable Koni's. I am undecided with which spring to use or just use the Megan springs on the Koni's, if that is even possible.

 

I have looked at a lot of COs and what I found disgusting is many don't disclose the most basic thing, the spring rates. This includes the pricey K&W version 3. They may be out there hidden somewhere but certainly not on their product main pages. I have to look at many different pages on Megan and now they only show one CO on their many confusing sites. It is the Euro Street (no indication if I or II).

If you pay attention to the URL it suggest this is version 2, Mk II, or whatever.

"SPRING RATES:
F: 62mm ID; 160mm length; 7 kg/mm
R: 62mm ID; 170mm length; 6 kg/mm

NOTE: 05/2011: Previous versions included 8k/6k spring rates prior to the change to 7k/6k incorporated in May 2009."

Swift is the only springs that I know has higher spring rate for the rear over the front.

Contrary to most believe, you cannot adjust the spring rate on coilovers. You can change ride height, and hence corner balance and that is it. The so-called preload is to set it so you will still have some spring force when jack up the car, or when you go airborne like in the Italian Jobs.

You will not be able to reuse the springs from CO with Konis. They are incompatible with the spring perches.

 

I got mine in 2012 so mine will (should) be the 7k/6k springs - I did have the spring rates reversed; thank you for the correction.


I figured that I wouldn't be able to use the springs, it was a just a passing thought. Would have been nice to save a little money.

 

Long time mate. Glad you got your bytetronik and innovate system up and running. I have burnt through my 3rd wb sensor now, and last time I was at the shop buying a sensor the guy showed me an extension that the sensor screws into to kind of heat shield protect the sensor. I see that is exactly what you have hooked up in your system.. I see you only been running it for a couple weeks, am very keen to see if this makes a difference. I might have to buckle down and purchase this heat shield as well. Problem is my header had the bung in place already fitted, I have no idea if I need to cut/shave the bung down with the extension piece as you had to cut yours in half... Hmmmm darn I might have to remove the header and peek down the tube.. Nuts!

Oh yes, regarding your injector duty cycle. Why not plug in your used jcw injectors and go for a run, am sure your duty cycle will drop a bit and be under your 100% idc. Also be interesting to see if your afr will change at all?

 

Ha ha! I was wondering when you going to chime in. Based on what I read on the internet (I don't generally believe most of the "facts") these WB sensors got killed by the heat. Most of the feedbacks I read do say it work by people who has killed the WB sensor. I think the design is sound, and by hanging the sensor in the wind at the track that should help a lot.

The A/F reading respond is almost instantaneous because of the circulation design. It should be pretty easy to grind down the bung. You do have to check how long yours is protruding inside.

I am still trying to establish my best lap time baseline so I am keeping it with just a 15%. The 100% duty cycle happens so brief I see no reason for alarm.

 

Thanks mate. Will see if those guys still have that unit in Stock. Pretty desperate now, so will spend the extra buck in order to stop paying for the umpteenth sensor haha.. I guess you don't have a dyno near you to slap her on and get some baseline numbers? Or even a drag strip..

 

What? Can't get them readily in Johannesburg? I paid $63 on fleaBay with free shipping here in the land of plenty.

I am more interest in the baseline established between Mini and me on track. I am too cheap to get a dyno run. I can get pretty good idea from the terminal speed at the front and back straights, given the ambient temperature.

 

Not sure, only ever saw it once at the shop in particular, guess I can ask around. Last resort is online order I guess and wait for the round the world trip and sit in customs until Christmas overseas online shopping to here sucks *****!

 

Can't be longer than 1/2 x Round The World in 80 Daze. It is like me saving $3 waiting for some bloody fuse taps to arrive via slow boat from China. I am OK to save 50% even on some stinking fuse taps.

 

Lol dude you make me laugh with the savings.. But hey it works man, good on you!

 

These are just some basic essentials for down to earth Mini. I set out to downgrade the precious metal multi-ground tab plugs to the cheapest copper plugs. Being a aluminium head I avoid taking the spark plugs in and out unnecessarily. While I am at it I changed out the original ignition cables even though they are working just fine. NGK all the way for my Mini. K&N panel filter goes in too.

I wanted to use up the OEM filter before putting this to use and it is time


this only had a few thousand miles; actually the filter is far from clogged up


it is amazing to find all this sand and grits inside the bottom of the filter housing - alarming


This is the reason you want the best air filter money can buy. OEM filter does an excellent job of preventing the engine from ingesting sand.

the intake side of the filter housing is so clean that not even a piece of lint can be found


I use compressed air to blow out all the sand and grits.

taking abundance of care to make sure the K&N is properly seated


note to self - the back side of the cover hinges on the tabs that you cannot see


this tool makes re-installing the OEM clamp easy


Next is to swap the spark plugs and ignition wires.

Desire loves opening boxes - so materialistic


the gaps are perfect out of the boxes; I've always like NGK, and yes way, way more than Bosch


the spark plugs read perfect and all the cylinders are very even


these original ignition wires still have plenty of life left; Achtung, Hochspannung


there is no sign of dielectric breakdown


After installing the new plugs I torqued them to 20ft-lb. I tried to use my HF clicker but I trust my calibrated arms more rather than using it at the low end of the range.

like a lot of owners found, the ignition coil terminal #3 has the most corrosion, but is not bad; I lightly and gently sand off the rust only on #3 as the rest are not bad at all


next is to judiciously apply a bit of dielectric grease to prevent galvanic reaction


I carefully routed the cables to ensure they don't suffer from chafing; chafing is the primary cause of ignition cable deterioration


Last and not least is to go out for a test drive. While the new plugs are identical in heat range, I want to leave nothing to chance as the next track event are just around the corner.

While I am at it, I pop the cover of the rear tow hook receiver for the first time. It is not painful for Mini if you are gentle.

 

Got my Mini prepped for today. Didn't vacuum out the inside... may have time before the event... could pull out few ounces of dirt... My Mini is a daily and the work horse for the old home. You'd be amazed to see how many 8 foot 2x4's or 4x4's can fit inside. The best part about that is pulling the Mini up to the loading zone at Home Depot and watching the other manly men and manly men pickup trucks watch me load the car with lumber and close the rear hatch.


The rear seat backs are out. Surprisingly heavy. About 15 -20 pounds for the both. I have heard prior quotes on their weight and believe them to be a bit exaggerated. I haven't weighed them but could just for fun. It wouldn't be a very scientific weigh in but it would be a good estimate. I was able to put both under one arm and carry them very easily.

 

I do the same with lumber!
I’ve had 16 footers on the MINI roof racks.
MINIs are the greatest.

 

I had gone to HD to pick up the odd 2x4 8-footers and plumbing pipes a few times. When I upgraded from Miata, I told my neighbors the Mini is like an SUV compared to all but useless Miata.

Mini has carried more tonnage of payload than any other vehicle I've owned. Yes. The rear back rest weight a bit as it has to withstand all the grocery (F = MxA) in the event of a bad collision. The bottom cushion is feather lite though.

I never bother to try taking out weight for track days. I think I would take out 3 of the 4 MINI rubber mats this time. That might upset the balance of the car as they weight a ton.

 

Hay all.
So the other day I gave the wot 1st 2nd 3rd 4th gear and my Dash command recorded the power it showed me 298 engine power what would that Translate in our cars into the wheel power this may be an odd question but I will ask anyways is there a formula for that.

 

Desire daydreaming of being a full time track animal

 

First off, I would ignore the potential limitations of the Dashcommand as to how it derive the reported HP. Assuming you have an accurate crank power, there is no way to know the accurate power at the wheel unless you put it on a real dynanometer. Most people will assume a drive train loss of say 15% and call it a day.

I think at the end of the day, the accessible proof of the pudding is doing a real life test - and that is acceleration. 1/4 mile, 0-60 etc.