I ordered the clutch kit from Stockwiseauto.com for under $300 shipped. When it arrived I wasn't too pleased with the shape things were in.

Basically I'm in a hurry to get my R53 back on the road by Saturday. What do you guys think about the contents and how they're looking?




The guide pin (broken) but can be fixed. Should this be OK *** long as the splines fit? Also a little rust on the plate. No biggy right, it was in transit for a couple days?



Not sure if this is normal but there are some scratches on the clutch material. Just superficial IMO?



Contents once I opened the box and removed packing between flywheel and pressure plate.


One big complaint was the guide pin (?) being broken. Looks like it got crushed and the ball end doesn't stay put in the guide.

Before I get started on this repair I just wanted to check and get some opinions.

Also, does anyone have a DIY on how to install the Valeo Clutch? Sure it's no different than any other clutch. Just looking for tips to save my butt before I destroy it in a hasty repair.

Thanks NAM!

 

Sorry to hear, I just recommended that site to folks on here because it was a great deal. Mine arrived in just a couple days in perfect condition, no rust. If anything was broken, I'd just ask for a replacement clutch kit if you can spare the wait.

Here's a great install video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83t1MoklcIs

 

Even if it was just the spline guide tube? I've been without my MINI for almost a week now. Really want to get it fixed. Would that be impossible without the spline guide tube?

Thanks!

 

I just looked closer at the pic, that's no big deal, as long as there's no damage to the clutch parts you'll be fine.
That is just an alignment tool to center the clutch disc prior to tightening the pressure plate bolts, it does nothing in the way of aligning the splines to the output shaft, it simply centers the disc with an indent in the crank shaft. As long a you can center the disc, your fine.

 

Nice to hear.

Well... I may be waiting another week.

Rear main seal.

I had no idea it could leak into the bell housing covering the clutch, of course, making it slip. I MAY be in luck as ModMini said I may be able to get one at an AutoZone under a National P/N 710056.

Another stupid question. Gear oil. I don't know anywhere local to get Redline. How would you guys feel about reusing the old fluid until I can get new fluid shipped to me?

Edit: I have always used ModMini, he's super helpful... But it does seem like he maybe removing too many parts? Anyone else agree?

 

I wouldn't reuse the old oil, if your going to change it, change it. In reality any "good" synthetic 75w-90 will work just fine.
I use RP, but we all have our favorites.

 

We're in the same boat. I'm doing my clutch and keep finding all these little things that should be replaced, overnighting from Advance, Orielly, and Amazon.. only to find that some other thing is busted and is going to delay the job by another couple days.

Redline can be overnighted for an extra couple dollars on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I prefer Redline, it's what I've been running. I CAN get Royal Purple locally though. I may order the Redline and get the Royal Purple until the Redline arrives.

Grr... I really didn't plan this job out too well. Completely forgot about transmission fluid!

 

Which Royal Purple are you running?

 

According to MINI, 75W-80 for 02-04 and 75W-90 for 05-06. As long as its a GL-4 (not GL4, GL-5) it should be ok in a pinch. The GL-5 eats up synchros (brass) from what I remember. Correct me if I'm wrong here.

http://new.minimania.com/MINI_Cooper...mission_Fluids

 

Basically... Any 75W-80 synthetic GL4? I'll call so high performance shops and do some searching tomorrow. Taking a sick day (Shhh...:Wink and want this job done by Saturday.

Ready to take my MINI out. 1 week is too long. Like separation anxiety!?

 

I run the heavy stuff, Max Gear 85w-140 but it's not great for a DD that you want to jump in and drive when it's cold.

 

Parts run was a success! High-performance race shop had Redline for $17. Sweet!

AutoZone had the seal. Not National brand as ModMini used but cross-reference to Duralast 710056 at $15.

Now the job is go. Unsuspected gremlins, please stay away!

Wish me luck guys!

 

You get it wrapped up today?? Mine will need to be finished up Monday.. My MINI has also been in the shop since last Monday.

 

Yes mod mini takes off too many parts in the video. He is a great resource for sure but there are definitely parts that can stay on.

If I remember correctly ( it's been awhile since I watched the videos) he takes off the intercooler for some unknown reason. He also talks about not taking off some throttle body parts, but then does so anyway despite saying only one bracket is in the way.

I also left the radiator on. It makes one or two bolts slightly harder to get at but it's worth it.

Again, mod-mini is one of the best resources for all r53/r50 weekend mechanics. Just pointing out a few things I did differently.

Good luck, but I think I'm probably too late.

 

Exactly! He took of the intercooler and the throttle body along with the radiator. Not sure why? I'll skip those tomorrow.

I stopped at the rear, dog bone motor mount. Should have it installed and buttoned up tomorrow, if not then definitely Sunday.

Also, I noticed my driver side IC boot had some liquid in it, smelt very rich like gas. Any clues if this is normal or is something else foul?

 

Royal Purple recommends XPR 5W20 oil for the Mini Copper S 6 spd, I run it and autocross my Mini with no problems at all. I get mine at OReillys.

 

It's normal to find small amounts of oil at the openings when removing the intercooler. I dont think gasoline would make its way into the intercooler.

 

Yes. Clean it out really good with some spray carb cleaner...let it dry, and put it back on

 

did you order a new guide tube or shaft seal when doing this job?

 

Installing my new Valeo kit tomorrow (probably into the weekend, honestly). The packaging wasn't real impressive (comparable to in the OP), but all the pieces were in fine shape (ordered from Pelican).

WRT the pieces ModMini removes, I pulled most of the same ones. Wasn't sure I needed to do the intercooler (left the horns on), but the way I've got the engine supported, it would have been under some serious pressure from the strap I'm hanging it with. I wound up pulling the throttle body and the supercharger intake tube, which gave me much better access to a couple of the bolts. Probably would have been doable with those on, but with them off it was a piece of cake.

 

Nope, didn't even think about it until you mentioned it. Never saw any suggestions to do so. I did make sure to grease them up as recommended per Valeo's instructions.

 

I know you probably don't care about the explanation at this point, but I noticed your question about the clutch material "scoring" went unanswered. The scoring is intentionally cut into the friction material to assist in cooling and clutch disengagement IIRC. It's normal. I remember reading about it when I was in manual transmissions class a year ago, don't have access to the materials explaining it anymore though.

 

you'll need to replace the transmission fluid after 1k miles right?

 

No....why would you do that ?