Drivetrain r53 Super Charger lag after 17% pulley?
r53 Super Charger lag after 17% pulley?
Hey all, I recently installed a 17% pulley on my 2006 r53 automatic. I love the power and the change I got from the pulley etc. But I have been wondering if anyone else has had a short lag when they put the pedal down to the floor. I can hear the supercharger whining so elegantly but it builds up takes off and then there is a short hesitation and then it really kicks in more and pushes me into the seat is this normal for a r53 or supercharged car? Sorry if this is a stupid question just want to be sure its not something wrong...
Its hard to explain. The response is immediate and it is quick dont get me wront but it almost winds up and then kicks in for a second time and goes even faster if that makes sense..I got the kit from Alta and they sent me the correct belt I don't believe its slipping just almost like hitting a powerban on a dirtbike when I was younger is the best way to explain it
Doesn't sound normal, the power should feel linear. Perhaps your bypass valve needs replacement. Mine was ok before my pulley install, but the extra boost was too much for the tired out spring.
Damnit, this is what I didn't want to happen. Well like I said I have the automatic so that's one thing to consider.. And secondly I will say that it only does this when I go from regular drive to sport drive. Is there some kind of test or inspection of the items I can look into the rule out what it is?
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I'm sure there's a way to tell without removing it. I know if you remove the bypass valve and press the plunger, the spring won't fully shut the valve if it's not working properly. Not something that needs immediate replacement but it's certainly nice to replace regardless. Some change to the Detroit tuned version which is OEM with a stiffer spring, I personally don't like the "harsh" feeling of it so I replaced it with an oem from Ecs for $90.
I'm sure there's a way to tell without removing it. I know if you remove the bypass valve and press the plunger, the spring won't fully shut the valve if it's not working properly. Not something that needs immediate replacement but it's certainly nice to replace regardless. Some change to the Detroit tuned version which is OEM with a stiffer spring, I personally don't like the "harsh" feeling of it so I replaced it with an oem from Ecs for $90.
Bypass valves were already improved in 05 and unless you were having issues like this before, there isn't really any reason to assume that adding a pulley made the bpv go bad. It sounds to me more like your transmission downshifting when you floor it? Thats what I'm getting from your description at least. If your just cruising along in an automatic its going to be in a high gear for mpg, but when you mash the pedal it will downshift first before it does anything. Perhaps you just notice this more now that you're making more boost?
Bypass valves were already improved in 05 and unless you were having issues like this before, there isn't really any reason to assume that adding a pulley made the bpv go bad. It sounds to me more like your transmission downshifting when you floor it? Thats what I'm getting from your description at least. If your just cruising along in an automatic its going to be in a high gear for mpg, but when you mash the pedal it will downshift first before it does anything. Perhaps you just notice this more now that you're making more boost?
Well I have a 2005 with the updated bypass and my yoyo issue went away with a new bypass valve. Whether it's your issue or not, I have no idea, I'm just offering my experiences. Hopefully you sort it out.
Can you shift through the gears yourself and get yourself to second and mash the throttle and see if you experience the same thing to rule out downshifting?
Whens the last time you replaced plugs/wires? I ask because although I replaced my plugs with my pulley, I didn't realize how bad my wires were and noticed a hesitation after my install. Eventually it turned into a full-on misfire and was easier to diagnose once I threw that code.
Whens the last time you replaced plugs/wires? I ask because although I replaced my plugs with my pulley, I didn't realize how bad my wires were and noticed a hesitation after my install. Eventually it turned into a full-on misfire and was easier to diagnose once I threw that code.
Can you shift through the gears yourself and get yourself to second and mash the throttle and see if you experience the same thing to rule out downshifting?
Whens the last time you replaced plugs/wires? I ask because although I replaced my plugs with my pulley, I didn't realize how bad my wires were and noticed a hesitation after my install. Eventually it turned into a full-on misfire and was easier to diagnose once I threw that code.
Whens the last time you replaced plugs/wires? I ask because although I replaced my plugs with my pulley, I didn't realize how bad my wires were and noticed a hesitation after my install. Eventually it turned into a full-on misfire and was easier to diagnose once I threw that code.
As far as plugs go I installed them as well with the kit I used the factory gap out of the box if that makes a difference? I also have a MSD coil pack, and brand new wires to install tmrw. The wires and coil pack on there now are both stock and I have about 124,000 miles on them..
UPDATE: 
I took it out and shifted into second mashed the petal to the floor and it was solid power all the way till it shifted into third. I am honestly a little embarrassed that I didn't think of that first myself.
I am also going to recheck the plug gaps, install the coil pack, and new wires today to see if that rules out any slight hesitation. If theres still a little bit I think I am going to eventually just pick up the bypass valve and have that piece of mind.
Thank you all for the help, I love this forum and all the quick and valuable responses I got. You guys rock!
I took it out and shifted into second mashed the petal to the floor and it was solid power all the way till it shifted into third. I am honestly a little embarrassed that I didn't think of that first myself.
I am also going to recheck the plug gaps, install the coil pack, and new wires today to see if that rules out any slight hesitation. If theres still a little bit I think I am going to eventually just pick up the bypass valve and have that piece of mind.
Thank you all for the help, I love this forum and all the quick and valuable responses I got. You guys rock!
Any thoughts?
I installed the 17% pulley, and belt that was provided in the alta kit. I opted out of the alta tensioner stop and I am still running all stock parts. How would I test these options.. I was going to try the bypass valve next..
You don't get lag from a SC it's always running. You have a crap belt ofr a failing belt tensioner causing the belt to slip. It you still have the OEM crank damper on it may be failing also. If you crank damper fails you can F up your motor so just but the ATI damper and be done with it. Don't wa your money on the crap M7 or ALTA non dampened crank pulley they are junk. They are dampened for a reason, harmonics.
Listen to the wisdom of Dave O. & the guys from the Alliance of Motoring.
If your crankshaft pulley(main drive from engine) is starting to fail, go ATI Super Damper.
Check your belt tensioner's lil strut/shock. If it offers no resistance, Get a new $80 Gates tensioner (same as OE) off Amazon or Rockauto.
If your crankshaft pulley(main drive from engine) is starting to fail, go ATI Super Damper.
Check your belt tensioner's lil strut/shock. If it offers no resistance, Get a new $80 Gates tensioner (same as OE) off Amazon or Rockauto.
Last edited by minsanity; Jan 3, 2015 at 11:15 PM.
Ill give that a try, I have been told recently its the automatic transmission and the ECU reset trying to learn the new pulley I am going to give it some time before I go crazy it seems to be mellowing out now too!
Where could I find the interval information is there a site for this?



