once B is in your seat C will be next.....lol like a crack head hanging out on the corner.....lol
I think I picked up 20 whp from A to B been awhile.
I would have to go look at dyno sheets.....
I remember I hit 239 and my Manic dealer thought it was the dyno I was on so I went to his dyno and did the same. He said that was the highest he had ever seen......

 

 

highly suggest meth , keep the valves happy and the temps happy .
B+ vs B to comp for intercooler.

 

 

If you like map A, you'll love map B. Map C was a little on/off for me at stage 1 so I didn't use it. Stage 2 drives a lot smoother than stage 1, at least for me, and map C is just as drivable as the first two.

 

 

150 sounds VERY high. My IAT will typically drop slightly on the highway if i am cruising and then get on it. The only time mine gets high is when not moving.

 

 

Do you have a link for the one you purchased?

 

 

Sorry, but that thing looks terrible! The one I bought from ebay looks like the Wagner intercoolers.

When mine showed up, it looked exactly like this one, except I only paid ~$225:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-racing-d...372056100~rdy/

 

 

Return it and get this one. Best one you can buy.

http://store.helix13.com/helix-2nd-g...e-intercooler/

 

My Ebay intercooler was a Forge knock off and cost $135 shipped. I've had no issues. IAT when moving is usually ambient maybe 1-2 degrees more depending. During pulls it's never gone 10 degrees above ambient. CTS makes an intercooler now too for our cars that's in the $300 range on ECS Tuning

 

There's another thread on intercoolers where a bunch of us posted plots from datalogging IATs with various intercoolers. With the stock intercooler IATs will quickly rise to 50C above ambient on a long pull - I do 3rd gear 2000 rpm to redline, up a slight hill. A good intercooler (Wagner, Helix, others) will only rise 9-10C.

You're seeing ~75F over ambient which is a little better than stock but not much. Return that junk and get a quality product.

 

 

How much difference should an automatic make on the dyno vs. a manual?

 

 

 

 

 

yeah you'll be more than fine. I dont even bother with Map A on my stage 3 tune anymore. Its B or C for me.

 

 

 

The recommendations for the NGK 1422 plugs is to help protect your engine. More power equals more heat in the combustion chamber. The stock heat range 7 plugs can become heat saturated creating a hot spot. This can lead to detonation in the wrong circumstances. The 1422's are heat range 8 and do a better job of transferring the heat the plug is exposed to into the head. Hence the term a colder plug.

I have had clients forget to change the plugs on two occasions. Within a two week to two month time frame they reported issues with uneven power/sputtering in boost. When asked if they changed the plugs, the answer was "Doh". Changed plugs and the vehicles have ran great to this day. Plugs are much like oil... cheap insurance to prevent problems.