I think once you get that intercooler actually cooling then you can run map B no problems. The berus are garbage, sorry you just swapped them out with new ones. I wouldn't worry too much about them till you goto stage 2.

 

 

Glad you got it fixed. If you ever get stutters on boost or the car dumps boost, but then behaves normally after, change the plugs as you might be pre-igniting.

 

That's about what I'm seeing with the Helix intercooler. It's hard to believe the air is that cold, especially after the IAT I get on the R53. I'm on the B map and see 18 PSI.

 

 

Not sure what you mean by upgraded, but I am running a stage 2 manic tune with my 2014 JCW r60 no worries. Can't go wrong with this tune. Soon to be on stage 3 with some changes in turbo and intercooler upgrades.

 

 

I`m running manic stage 2 with jcw turbo (MCS N18)

Do I need a new remap if I upgrade to a JMTC S42?

 

 

 

Lou (Tigger) has a couple maps for my Alta 42MM turbo via Manic. You may want to reach out to him.

 

 

After you buy the larger FMIC, you should have all you need for stage 2 Manic. The tune will also sort out the CEL with sports & decat DP.

From what I've read different maps mainly have different boosts.

I use map B.

 

You should be able to install the downpipe on Stage 1 and not get a CEL, I think even the stage 1 tune has the coding to get rid of it. I drove around with a catless downpipe for like a week on stage 1 before getting stage 2 and I never threw a code. This was like 3-4 years ago though.

Also, I could be wrong on this considering Manic just switched up all their pricing, but I think you can upgrade from Stage 1 to Stage 2 for the cost of the difference between the tunes, which is about $200. Call your Manic dealer about that though. I do know that once the ECU is cracked it makes it a lot easier to retune. Going from Stage 2 to Stage 3 is where I paid, because it's a completely custom tune that the tuner can't store locally. To give you an idea though, I paid $700 for Stage 1 with the SPS switch ($500 tune, $200 for the switch), then $200 to go from Stage 1 to Stage 2, then $600 to go from Stage 2 to Stage 3. This was at KMD Tuning in Saddle Brook, NJ.

 

I have a 2013 R56 and went with the Manic stage 2+ tune in 2015. I keep it on map C all the time. Other mods include a K&N flat panel air filter, CNT catted DP, FMIC, intake muffler delete pipe, removed the downstream cat and installed NGK 1422 plugs. Still using the original exhaust pipe and muffler, it's noticeably louder than stock, but sounds nice.. I also replaced the original run-flat tires with 205/50R16 Pirelli Cinturato P7's It's my daily driver and I don't track the car. I've logged about 40,000 miles since the tune and has been very reliable. The only issue I have is that the engine can now make more torque than the stock clutch was intended to hold. It's no problem in the lower gears because the DSC limits wheelspin. WOT in 4th gear and higher sometimes slips the clutch and DSC doesn't detect that.

 

What hardware do Manic officially endorse for Stage 2 and above?

https://manicmotorsport.freshdesk.co...e-2-and-above-

Mini Stages August 2015 onwards...

https://manicmotorsport.freshdesk.co...-2015-onwards-

Mini Pricing August 2015 onwards...

https://manicmotorsport.freshdesk.co...-2015-onwards-

Customer FAQ

https://manicmotorsport.freshdesk.co.../1?url_locale=

 

 

A FMIC always helps with any tune level as cooler air means your engine can run more timing up to the limit of the map. And heat is the enemy, especially running map C. Most people run B daily as the S turbo can really only sustain about 18-19psi at full efficiency which is map A. The JCW turbo gives you another psi or so which is map B. But since you're not at WOT all the time daily driving you can get away with full time map B or a little of map C. Be sure to change your oil more frequently now that you are tuned. Every 5k to 7.5k you should be good and is cheap insurance. You didn't mention if you have manual or auto, but if you have auto I'd recommend a 2.5qt drain and fill every other oil change with full synthetic. After about 5 to 6 of those most of the non-synthetic fluid will be changed out. So save up for that FMIC first before summer and worry about stage 2 later if funds are tight.

 

Like I said, Manic may have changed their pricing structure since I got my Stage 1 and 2 tunes. That was like 3 years ago.

 

 

My car does not have a limited slip differential and, since DSC does several functions including traction control, I seldom turn it off. In my opinion, it's a good thing to have except when you need (want) to maximize acceleration. I've noticed that when the DSC senses wheelspin, it can apply brake to the offending wheel, but it also reduces fuel until the wheelspin stops. It then restores fuel flow and the cycle repeats until there is no more wheelspin. This causes the car to buck a little, which is annoying. A dash indicator light flashes while this is going on. In the lower gears, it doesn't take much torque to break the tires loose, so the stock clutch holds just fine. I haven't noticed the DSC applying brakes to the extent that the clutch slips. It's only in the higher gears when the engine develops full torque and the tires are sticking to the road that the clutch sometimes slips. When this happens, there is no dash indicator light - just an unexpected rise in RPM and a smelly clutch.