Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain BMS Clutch Stop

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  #76  
Old 01-24-2014, 10:12 AM
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From past experience, if you can put it in gear without grinding/buzzing and with minimal effort you should be fully disengaged. YMMV
 
  #77  
Old 01-24-2014, 11:28 AM
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Car won't start if not fully disengaged
 
  #78  
Old 01-25-2014, 05:38 AM
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Terry, without going through email, would you have an idea of postage to Australia.
 
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:52 AM
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I think free.
 
  #80  
Old 01-25-2014, 08:03 PM
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I'll be ordering one then.(I have now done so) I figured free to the Continental US but not overseas.

If I like it as much as others here seem to, I'll give it a boost on the Aus forum. Not that many would buy it. They just don;t seem to do it here in numbers.
 

Last edited by teamrodney; 01-26-2014 at 09:21 PM.
  #81  
Old 02-01-2014, 10:23 PM
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Got in the mail and installed today. Thanks BMS!

 
  #82  
Old 02-02-2014, 12:18 AM
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I have a 2011 MINI Cooper S with 12k miles have had it for a week and looked at every ones feed back on the clutch stop was wondering if i do install it in my car at how many shims do you think it will be the best?
 
  #83  
Old 02-03-2014, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by cambo
Got in the mail and installed today. Thanks BMS!

Great! Note we ran out of our normal shims so used alternatives for the last batch. They are a bit thinner than the normal ones but we put an extra one on to compensate.
 
  #84  
Old 02-03-2014, 09:07 AM
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I just received the new stop with 5 thinner shims. What would you recommend for a 60k '07 R56? Also do I still keep the bottom foam pad on when I install?
 
  #85  
Old 02-03-2014, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Grizld700
I just received the new stop with 5 thinner shims. What would you recommend for a 60k '07 R56? Also do I still keep the bottom foam pad on when I install?
I would only take one off and do leave the foam pad on. If you find that removing one was not enough,(or like I did by leaving them all on), you can carefully pull it partway back out and even more carefully cut one of the rubber washers off with a small razor knife. I just don't see how to remove the whole thing without breaking it once inserted

Makes a great deal of difference in the clutch operation, I'm 100% satisfied.
 
  #86  
Old 02-03-2014, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by RockAZ
If you find that removing one was not enough,(or like I did by leaving them all on), you can carefully pull it partway back out and even more carefully cut one of the rubber washers off with a small razor knife.
Sorry, forgot to mention the 5 thinner shims on mine are metal washers :-/
 
  #87  
Old 02-03-2014, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Great! Note we ran out of our normal shims so used alternatives for the last batch. They are a bit thinner than the normal ones but we put an extra one on to compensate.
ahhh ok, sorry, idiot here, I don't know the difference between a shim and a washer lolol

So 5 washers would be the equivalent of '3 shims' and 4 would be the equivalent of '2 shims'? either way, 2 washers feels good to me, I'll probably leave it as is...thanks again!
 
  #88  
Old 02-03-2014, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by cambo
ahhh ok, sorry, idiot here, I don't know the difference between a shim and a washer lolol

So 5 washers would be the equivalent of '3 shims' and 4 would be the equivalent of '2 shims'? either way, 2 washers feels good to me, I'll probably leave it as is...thanks again!
Right. So around 3 washers would equal 2 shims. But to be honest it's such a small difference I doubt you'd even notice the difference.
 
  #89  
Old 02-08-2014, 12:13 PM
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Just installed BMS clutch stopper in my 2011 Countryman. Unfortunately, I'm not impressed. First, I set 3 rings and try to push it in but didn't go all the way, only 1/3. I tried to turn the car but, couldn't. When I pressed the pedal where it finally turned the engine the stopper bent in a shape of a "S". So, I took it off and cut the 1/3rd and tried again - like Chrunck. This time it's almost all the way in and the car started but, when I test drove, I had to feel for the clutch engage point like the factory stopper. Should I return it? I can't because my OEM stopper broke off while removing it -like Cambo - so this is the only stopper I have....Maybe my clutch plate is worn where the engage point is high but then again, how am I going to turn the engine where it has to be pressed way down? May be this is not for Countryman - yet -
 
  #90  
Old 02-08-2014, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Kimsc321
Just installed BMS clutch stopper in my 2011 Countryman. Unfortunately, I'm not impressed. First, I set 3 rings and try to push it in but didn't go all the way, only 1/3. I tried to turn the car but, couldn't. When I pressed the pedal where it finally turned the engine the stopper bent in a shape of a "S". So, I took it off and cut the 1/3rd and tried again - like Chrunck. This time it's almost all the way in and the car started but, when I test drove, I had to feel for the clutch engage point like the factory stopper. Should I return it? I can't because my OEM stopper broke off while removing it -like Cambo - so this is the only stopper I have....Maybe my clutch plate is worn where the engage point is high but then again, how am I going to turn the engine where it has to be pressed way down? May be this is not for Countryman - yet -
I have an 11' MCS and my experience is pretty similar. I thought I was the only one. The once or twice I brought it up though, nobody has any feedback as to why this may be happening. It seems that negative comments are ignored.
 
  #91  
Old 02-08-2014, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Kimsc321
Just installed BMS clutch stopper in my 2011 Countryman. Unfortunately, I'm not impressed. First, I set 3 rings and try to push it in but didn't go all the way, only 1/3. I tried to turn the car but, couldn't. When I pressed the pedal where it finally turned the engine the stopper bent in a shape of a "S". So, I took it off and cut the 1/3rd and tried again - like Chrunck. This time it's almost all the way in and the car started but, when I test drove, I had to feel for the clutch engage point like the factory stopper. Should I return it? I can't because my OEM stopper broke off while removing it -like Cambo - so this is the only stopper I have....Maybe my clutch plate is worn where the engage point is high but then again, how am I going to turn the engine where it has to be pressed way down? May be this is not for Countryman - yet -
I've not looked at a Countryman in person. If the plastic stopper leg is too long though just cut it as needed so it sits flush as you've done. You'll want to adjust the number of spacers so it sits as high as it can while allowing the engine to still start.
 
  #92  
Old 02-08-2014, 06:29 PM
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That's what I have done Terry, thanks for the reply. Please be in-mind that my review had no ill intention of the product. I was fully aware that BMS was selling it for other mini models. For $10, I had to try it for the beneficiary reasons but unfortunately, not in my favor where the stopper didn't make the difference....
 
  #93  
Old 02-08-2014, 08:25 PM
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I just want to leave my opinion after a few months: this product made the clutch feel like it should have from the factory. Less travel and quicker to engage. Makes me happy!
 
  #94  
Old 02-09-2014, 10:47 AM
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I popped mine in yesterday. It came with 3 rubber spacers. I went with 2 and it feels right to me, much less travel and a sufficient distance past disengagement to avoid grinding.


When trying to pull out my old one, the head broke off the shaft. I couldn't find anything to get enough bite on it and pull it out and ended up pushing the old shaft back in. Looking at it, I don't think a plastic piece floating loose will affect anything, but I just want to make sure. Do I need to try to fish it out?


Thanks.
 
  #95  
Old 02-09-2014, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by davidg5700
I popped mine in yesterday. It came with 3 rubber spacers. I went with 2 and it feels right to me, much less travel and a sufficient distance past disengagement to avoid grinding.


When trying to pull out my old one, the head broke off the shaft. I couldn't find anything to get enough bite on it and pull it out and ended up pushing the old shaft back in. Looking at it, I don't think a plastic piece floating loose will affect anything, but I just want to make sure. Do I need to try to fish it out?


Thanks.
Same thing here, put my clutch stop in a few days ago and absolutely love it! 2013 R56s. I got the new one with 5 metal washer. I removed two of them and it seems perfect.

The old stopper also broke off on removal, and I also pushed in the nipple remnant, I think that should be fine.
 
  #96  
Old 02-09-2014, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Kimsc321
That's what I have done Terry, thanks for the reply. Please be in-mind that my review had no ill intention of the product. I was fully aware that BMS was selling it for other mini models. For $10, I had to try it for the beneficiary reasons but unfortunately, not in my favor where the stopper didn't make the difference....
Yeah no worries. You can always return it. But at $10 it's about the same cost as the OEM one I think.
 
  #97  
Old 02-12-2014, 06:55 PM
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Just installed this clutch stop along with JB+ tune from BMS.

Clutch stop is working out perfectly with 3 shims
 
  #98  
Old 02-12-2014, 06:56 PM
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Just installed this clutch stop along with JB+ tune from BMS on my R61 Paceman S.

Clutch stop is working out perfectly with 3 shims.
 
  #99  
Old 02-21-2014, 01:53 PM
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Add me to the list of happy customers. Just put a BMS clutch stop in my mini.
At $10, has to be the best mod out there.
 
  #100  
Old 02-21-2014, 02:50 PM
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Today I added the NM Engineering torque arm inserts after previously having added the BMS clutch stop. Together, these mods have really transformed the shifting experience. The car now shifts the way it should have from the factory IMHO. A final mod in the future may be a short shifter, or - if I win the lottery - the CAE shifter:
http://www.shop.cae-racing.de/index.php?a=38&lang=eng
 


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