Hey Guys,
I've had my '08 MCSm for a little over a month now, and love it. If there's one thing I wish were better, it's the throttle response. I like to double-clutch (or at least try to) as it gives me an activity to practice on my way to work. Problem is, I end up waiting for the revs to drop back down for a couple seconds in the middle of every upshift.
I'd like to know what mods people have found to have the biggest effect on throttle response. Here are some of the ones I'm considering:
Intake - I would think that a shorter intake tract like those on the DoS, NM, K&N Typhoon, or Alta might improve throttle response. By that logic, the JCW intake would not offer any improvement. Does this sound right?
Blow-off/Diverter valve upgrade - I would consider the WMW or Alta diverter valve first, but perhaps a vent-to-atmo BOV would have even better throttle response?
Sprint booster - I'm really skeptical of this one. People claim in improves throttle response, but from what I can tell it just re-maps the throttle position (same effect as sport button, but more pronounced). I can already tell that sport mode doesn't improve throttle response, so I doubt this would be any different.
Lightweight flywheel - is there anyone who makes these for our cars?
Any other products that I'm overlooking?

 

One of the best side-benefits to the AP was improved throttle response. It is the first thing that I notice when I uninstall it for a dealer visit.

The MINI uses an electronic throttle, and there is definately room for improvement. I haven't tried a sprint booster, but I can say that the AccessPort is a really good improvement in my car.

Mike

 

???......i thought double clutching was for downshifting?.....

 

i installed a 63.5mm (2.5") milltek DP back exhaust, eliminating both the second cat and resonator and have much better throttle responce

btw ... double cluthing is for down shifting not upshifting

scott

 

Your complaint does not match your question. The slow to rev match issue is due to the taller gears(only a problem in the first few gears). Throttle response is the pedal to acceleration sensitivity. Turn on sports mode and throttle response is changed. There's no easy way to change gear ratios. It worsens when you upshift at higher rpms.

I'm not sure why you're double clutching. Just hold the clutch pedal in a second longer if you need to wait for rpms to drop(its not that long) for upshift. Otherwise blip the throttle with clutch pedal depressed when downshifting(think heel-and-toe without braking).

 

The best improvement to throttle response is to remove the gas pedal, clean in really really good, and then drive a better car under it.

 

Get the LTW Flywheel. Huge difference. I've had it done to a few cars. It feels likes a different ride. Beware if you are not a great stick-shift driver you may not want to get it until you get better. Also, if you are in a heavy traffic area you may not want this for a daily driver, and if you consider it then you should also upgrade the clutch. http://www.madnessmotorworks.com/lig...lywheel-1.aspx

***Depending on how deep you go, consider upgrading to a performance clutch. Better bite and lighter engagement and you would take advantage of the labor being done with the LWF anyway.

The DP and exhaust have a good benefit. There are a lot of options and you can take off cats. If you go all out straights you will need a tune to lean it out.

 

+1

Waiting for revs to drop is unrelated to throttle response. Lightweight flywheel can help with that, but introduces other issues for daily driving.

 

Sprint Booster helps with the throttle response.


Fairly pricey though....but it works.

 

Yes the Sprint Booster will help the throttle response.

Also the Forge Diverter valve helps as the car will build boost quicker at lower RPMs.

 

Sprintbooster all the way. Once you have one you will never drive again without it.

 

You're thinking of heel-toe...Mini pedal design is great for that. I don't know why he would double clutch or even practice it. The manuals have syncros. Unless he went mated a pre-1960's transmission with his R56 somehow haha.

 

Granny shifting when you should have been double clutching.

 

Perhaps I'm using the term throttle response incorrectly. What I'm talking about is how quickly rpms can rise and fall when the throttle is opened and closed, respectively. Check out this F1 car warming up - the 'throttle response' (or whatever you want to call it) is instantaneous.
re: double clutching - yes, I know syncros make it unnecessary. But my commute can get boring, and it's a skill that I can practice and feel good about getting better at. It's how our grandfathers drove, because they had to, and it's nice to know that if I ever get the opportunity to drive a classic car, I won't make an *** of myself. And yes, you can double-clutch an upshift or a downshift.
Even without double-clutching, On an upshift this car forces you to either a) shift quickly, forcing the engine to its new rpm and creating a jerky motion that your passengers will dislike, b) feather the clutch on every shift as if you were launching from a stop, wearing out the clutch prematurely, or c) waiting for the rpms to eventually drop before letting out the clutch pedal.
Maybe it's caused by turbo lag - my last two cars were n/a, and were not this slow to change rpms. What I want to know it, am I stuck with this problem, or are there cost-effective mods to improve it?

 

I see what you did there. I laugh at that line every time I watch that movie.

I also feel like I should help you. But first I just want you to explain to me what you are thinking and why you don't practice proactive things that will make you a better manual driver. In the modern world. I drove around today double clutching like they do on old cars and it makes no sense. It's slow and all you have to do is hold the clutch in when you wait for the rpm to drop. No point in pushing in the clutch twice. I just want you to explain to me any benefit of doing this. Additionally your don't even need to double clutch with gears that don't have synchros.

Also the only way to make your RPM drop faster is to get a lighter flywheel.

 

Way, is this true of the N18s as well as the N14s? I recall seeing someone somewhere mention that the factory DV on the N18 is improved relative to the N14. Building boost quicker at lower RPMs is exactly what I'm looking to do.

 

Double Clutching in a car with syncros in the trans is like beating a dead horse. Completely pointless.

To answer the original question, about dropping revs quicker (although I'm not sure why you'd want to because you lose boost doing that) would be to lighten the rotating assembly, or parts that are involved ie. flywheel.

Tuning will also help being that the drive-by-wire system that most new cars run on is an electronically controlled throttle.

 

 

Okay, message received: NAM is decidedly against double-clutching. I promise to never bring it up again.

It seems the consensus is a lighter flywheel is the most effective mod for my problem. (btw, any suggestions for what to call this? how about 'rev response'?) Google searching for lightweight flywheels brought up this video:
I timed the revs dropping from 5k to 2k. Stock was ~2.5 sec, Fx200 was ~1.7 sec. That's about a 50% decrease in time. I think that could make a big difference in my daily driving. Guess I have to start saving my pennies...

 

You don't have a problem. As one of the few people commenting on this with a lighter flywheel my advice is do not get this if you want to "double-clutch" the rpm will drop faster and it will really make this even more pointless. By the time you double clutch you will have to blip the throttle just to get the RPM where they need to be. Or you will have to do it really fast. Which gain is also pointless. Also you need to factor in that your throw out bearing will go out twice as fast and in addition to the cost of the flywheel unless you plan to install it yourself it will cost an additional grand or so.

Here is a list of things you can practice that are actually worth something.
Heal toe shifting
Shifting to neutral without the clutch
Left foot breaking

I'm not attacking you but this idea of double clutching is ridiculous an actually slightly embarrassing and offensive.

 

If he wants to double clutch then let him.

I do it every now and then. 99% of my friends don't know how to do it. It's nice to practice a dying skill.

 

I'm not contesting that it's cool to practice a dying skill. People come on here all the time asking for people to spell out their mod plan. In this case spending 2000+ just so you can make is easier to practice is absurd.

 

What you say is true...and I agree.


To the OP, throttle response won't help the revs come down any faster. As a matter of fact, there is no bolt on mod that will help with that unless you go fly wheel like many have said.


As for the sprint booster, it makes the peddle progressive. I can ensure you that the sprint booster will make the pedal a hand full at first because it makes signals progressive.

1/2 pedal travel=car thinks WOT
1/4 pedal travel=car thinks 1/2

Gives you the feeling of being faster but you really aren't....it just comes on quicker/sooner.

Give it a try, Way motor works will let you try for 30 days, if you don't like it you can return it and get your greenbacks.....back.

 

Sprint Booster V3!

- SprintBoosterSales.com

 

get other mods, then RPM tune. Downpipe/exhaust upgrade, JCW turbo, aftermarket intercooler, replace high pressure boost tubes with aftermarket to remove mufflers, one beside the ds rad, the other one mounted at the rear of the engine going into the firewall. Then your in business!!!!