RX, i was checking out your website and i didn`t see any catch can kit for an n14 engine or n18.
i`m saying this because i see another member of nam purchasing a catch can from you guys. Is there a kit for an n14?

I've read the entire thread. Lots of good info. Too bad the good stuff is expensive. It's a MINI so that's why.

The whole time I kept having the same thoughts as Step:

"I severely doubt any of the solids that leave the valve cover actually make it to the engine. That would be a monumental trip for anything other than a gas. I mean think about it..... through the intake, into the turbo past the intake baffle, through the intercooler, up the cold side pipe back down the other side, through the throttle body, up the intake manifold. It would be like the Oregon trail for oil."

How in the hell does oil travel through all of that and make it to the engine?

I like IndiManiac's setup but it's a shame that these cars have to be doctored that much because of a poor design from the factory.

We appreciate your interest here.

Thanks!

RX is correct. The CNC shop is waiting on a special collet to make the adapters for the N14 and then they will be on the way all!

Great, i hope they dont take too long since i have no occ on my r56 yet and i`m getting anxious.
Tuner Boost do you have another video that specify or explains more of the installation other than that overview video you posted it in other thread somewhere around here on nam?

Please post up a link to these kits when they are available. I am currently running a Saikou Michi OCC on my car 2009 JCW clubman but I am always looking to see what others are doing and pics of how well they perform. MY SM can extracted more oil and water from my system than the my previous OCC did in the prior 3 years it was installed. Results are more important than price to me!

Please post up a link to these kits when they are available. I am currently running a Saikou Michi OCC on my car 2009 JCW clubman but I am always looking to see what others are doing and pics of how well they perform. MY SM can extracted more oil and water from my system than the my previous OCC did in the prior 3 years it was installed. Results are more important than price to me!




Agreed on that..

These are near ready. Just ran the first batch of N14 adaptors at $20 each, so Tommy Liveoak is testing them to make sure no tweaks are needed, then will run full run of them for production.



Sub, the SM can is one of the better ones on the market..3 times as effective as most are, so your not doing bad. The real RX is unequaled, but I always give credit where it is due, and the SM is in the top 3-4 on the market in effectiveness.

Also, Member RX Performance Products is NOT affiliated with RX Performance Products any longer. They chose to align with a company copying the original RX I, the engineer that designed and patented and making them cheap in China (Plastic pieces, etc.). We made every effort to appeal to ethics and some honor, but the $ swayed them apparently. Just want all to know.

PM me direct for tech support, and were looking for a supporting vendor that wants to carry these so all can get them easily.

Thanks All!! And let your favorite NAM Supporting Vendor know you would like them to offer the true RX solution and have them contact me direct to set them up.

Also, for the hard core boosted members pushing the limits, we may release our RX Super Chiller system for low IAT temps in the future if there is enough demand. Here is a video teaser of it on a 600 plus RWHP supercharged Camaro:

Has anyone installed this on a r55 2010 S Clubman?
Any testimony to the ease of install?
Also the Larger ID/OD braided lines are desirable? Why 8 5/8 over 6 5/8?
Is everything included for total install?
Thks and sorry for all the questions

Tracy is right we aren't part of RX Performance Products, LLC any longer and we couldn't be happier about it. We do however have the rights to use the brand name and domain name as it pertains to the catch cans he sold the rights to. We are the only authorized master reseller of the RX brand. The new owners of the brand and it's products wanted nothing to do with the business RX Performance Products, LLC. No good business person would. The important thing is the products which now belong to Extreme Auto Products.

Anyway I'm sure Tracy will be kicked off of this forum shortly for starting trouble and outright selling products without being a paying sponsor.

He left with the adapters so until we have completed ours, which will be shortly, don't buy the RX system for the Mini. Sorry to put this mess out there but he left me no choice.

Tommy,
RXSW

LOL! As Tommy and RXSW commits more slander and digs his legal problems deeper.

The RXSW cans are cheap knock offs made in China and we fear they can come apart as they are only pressed together. (I can post all the parts and finished for anyone wanting to see how they "hijacked" our original brand name and are playing these games. Yes, we do not recommend taking on chance on these cheap imitations. They have no background in the Automotive industry, and have very little technical knowledge so beware. If we cannot rectify the brand issue it will be dropped as it gets ruined by this mess of greed and dishonesty. That aside, the original developer and designer that IS one of the foremost experts in all things DI and the related issues as Tommy Liveoak or the other members here can attest to that have met with us in person. Just ask them directly. And no, we are only offering tech support here. If you want to purchase the true solution you will be able to do so from a supporting vendor of your choice.

Vendor drama.

If it's one thing everyone on this forum has learned is that plastic doesn't last very long under the bonet! Plastic valve covers, plastic water pumps (now alimumum), plastic thermostat housings etc...

I won't be buying any OCC system made from cheap plastic period especially from China! A bad move in my opinion, it won't last long under our bonets. Yes I'd rather pay more for quality materials, you betcha.

I have a question if I may
Where does a Mini get fresh air into the crankcase? I have not looked at my car in months and had to get a smog so...I started looking and testing some stuff. Seems like fuel trims were effected by my set up and I was able to "trim" them in with the ball valves.
Then I started reading these posts again and u mention how we need to introduce fresh air into the crank.
I do not see how it is of if it is done
I was thinking using the dipstick as an air inlet.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

As I understand it doesn't get fresh air, it gets blow-by gasses after the combustion process. I hope you're not serious about using the dipstick as an air inlet, you'll un-stabilized the entire PCV system not to mention causing erratic idling. Why would you want to do this?

Dipstick air valve? Please tell were being trolled.

As I understand your correct. I'm getting a dual OCC. it connects to the crankcase as well

If the crank cannot get air to allow scavenging under boost, how can it properly anfd fully expel the gases? It will create a vacuum unless it can draw air above and beyond the blow by gases.. Of course one could only vent to atmosphere. Just thinking of a better system. Mine does a great job as I recently replaced FMIC and had no oil whatsoever in the induction side while allow gases to be drawn into the turbo inlet.
Perhaps let it go at that

The "fresh side" is coming from the turbo inlet on the drivers side of the cam cover to the turbo inlet pipe. This is a mix of fresh and foul and not ideal. That is why we do so much re-configuring to accomplish full time evacuation and flushing and separate the cleanside. Dip stick is not a good source.
Just make sure you have evacuation suction from the 2 separate sources as the intake manifold vacuum is only present when in non-boost, and these turbos spool pretty quick, and proper checkvalves for each source.

You're spot on good sir

May I ask you to clarify on checkvalves Tuner? Could you elaborate

Im getting the dual can OCC from Saiko with AN fitting seems I cant upload the pics as I already did in another thread.

Thk you

As your engine is turbo charged, the intake manifold will become pressurized any time you transition into boost, so you will need 2 light cracking pressure checkvalves to put inline on the evacuation suction sources. One will be inline between the intake manifold vacuum and the cam cover where it connects at the passenger side rear corner. The Mini engines have a integrated one, but adding another gives peace of mind. You want it to emulate the OEM one and only allow flow away from the catchcan outlet (I assume your using the 2 cans welded together? If so you can have one pass through the other in series, or use one separate fro the cleanside) to the intake manifold vacuum line. This will sense boost and close so no pressure can escape back into the crankcase. Then, on your second outlet (if using only one can of the 2 for dirty side, then drill and add another outlet fitting to the primary can. SM has no separate chambers inside, only a center dispersion tube and the rest is coalescing media so it allows oil to pass through with the flow....still better than most, but will not stop the intake valve coking...only slow it down) that will run to the turbo inlet barb, you will want a inline checkvalve there as well flowing away from the can. This 2nd valve will open when the primary closes and provide suction for evacuation from the turbo inlet.

Hope that helps. If you need the correct valves, PM me and I can direct you where to source them.

That's exactly the system I have now. I also use ball valves to control vacuum and fuel trims.
Is not the turbo CCV side sucking air from the crank only and NOT providing fresh air? Is there a one way valve on the drivers side VC? I think so??
Is it really necessary to have fresh air?
The turbo side does the CCV job when the pass side is under boost and effectively shuts down. Its also the only source of vacuum other than the pump.
There appears to be no source of air to the crankcase, just the blow by gasses.
What if fresh air from the turbo intake was diverted to the crank via the oil dipstick?
As long as the tube was not in the oil it would just feed the crank and the air would find its way back into the intake. I would rather have that air recirc back into the intake manifold directly and not have anything go into the turbo hot side at all. That can only happen under NO boost i.e. vacuum.
One would then need to vent the turbo inlet/CCV to atmosphere but there would be no "draw" vacuum on the crankcase under boost. Hmmm?? A conundrum!!
There's no way to reintroduce the gasses on the intake under boost other than the turbo inlet it would appear
One could use a small diameter hose right off the drivers side VC to feed the dipstick tube but that's just recircing the gasses. Unless one vents to atmosphere (which I partially do) one cannot get rid of those gases going to the turbo inlet/FMIC and maps which sucks. I will say that I replaced my FMIC and there was NO trace or oil through the entire intake side so what am I worried about??

Please answer me this, why would you want fresh air diverted to the crank via the oil dipstick?

You would not want to introduce oxygen to the crankcase. There would be a chance of a crankcase explosion if the oil mist and oxygen in the crankcase reached the explosive limit.

Crankcase explosions happen occasionally with large industrial engines, frequently enough that they are designed with explosion doors and crankcase sniffers to help prevent catastrophic explosions.

Air so that no vacuum can occur, full scavenging and dilute the CC gases. Fresh air were omnipresent on all old car; pre FI NA stuff.
Never heard of an explosion in crankcase from oil and air (see note above about older cars having them) Again, all to get rid of the deleterious effects of the CC gases.
Please never mind though as my system works well. Just thinking of improvements.