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I don't think I would tap into the oil fill cap as there is no baffle under it and that would probably be the least path of resistance. You would suck up a lot of oil...
I think D said it best, to many people over thinking this. The factory states in a service testing bulletin to test the evap system by using a test cap where the oil fill cap is on the valve cover, to pass there must be 30" of vac with engine running . That is a very small amount.
As my testing I tried to use an electric pump to evap with, it worked but the amps that the motor drew causes the alternator to work harder using more power to use it .
I ran a hose from passenger side down below the car and angled it back hoping the wind will help suck some out. I left the factory setup on drivers side .
2.5 years like this and all seams okay.
I check my piping rather often and never have oil
just curious, do you spend any amount of time stuck in traffic in your car?
its nothing for my wife to spend up 2 2 hours everyday in tampa traffic.
thats why i was trying to retain the pcv at idle, its spends a ton of time there.
do i really just not need to worry about it? lol
this is my first turbo car and i really dont like foreign cars.....the wifey just "had to have it"
guess im going to re-read this entire thread and try to find that source for the plug that fits that passenger side port..... i like things tidy if at all possible.
thanks
Yes, I do spend time stuck in traffic, not 2 1/2 hours at a time though.
I blocked off the passenger side PCV line to prevent carbon build up on the exhaust valves. It seems to have worked.
started billowing out smoke about a week after i got it...but only after idling in traffic or coasting down offramps at high speed.
fyi: when i say "i" i mean my brother, my son, and me since i dont really work on stuff anymore. so im trying to report this stuff as best as i can remember.
first thing i did was check oil...it was about 2 quarts overfull.
drained it. then pretty quickly, i got the reduced power mode with no codes.
so i checked air filter, new, checked boost tubing for leaks or loose clamps...ok
pulled boost valve off turbo...looked ok ut i put an alta spring in it anyway...no change
i took it to mini for a free diagnostic with instructions to call me when they found the issue.
they called, said it was fixed, bill was like 500 bucks.....i said whoa, i didnt tell you you could work on it....they said uh...well ****...we will pull the parts off and have it ready for you at no charge in 30 minutes.... i went in, they said it needs a new boost solenoid on the turbo and probably a new converter as well....nothing about the valve cover. i said well i cant pay 500 for that 65 dollar part and i left.
ordered online for less than 70 if i remember, and when i went to install it, i could easily see that the old one was broken now...wasnt before
so the reduced power mode went away for about a week...then back
lots of reading here.... and i pulled intake manifold off to inspect valves....lol
so i went and bought a portable blaster and 2 boxes of walnut shells.
picked up a lightly used but badly warped and leaking atp 3" downpipe, a box of oil filters, and a waterpump for very cheap
fixed the atp downpipe, cleaned the valves, put back together
ran like a striped-*** ape for a few weeks....blowing smoke like crazy and 2 CELs from missing converter
put a new valve cover on, still pouring out smoke
did a compression test, all within specs. new plugs at this time
put an rx dual chamber catch can on it like the diagram showed to do it...made my own fittings...
catch can fills up in a couple of weeks, and the car is still smoking like crazy
it uses a quart a week, the entire back of the car is black like an old VW rabbit in the 80s
the clean side separator is plastic and has melted and is leaking oil externally...apparently, i got a forgery thats made in china
the turbo inlet has had oil in it when the inlet tubing is removed.
the lines coming out of valve cover have oil in them when removed
the intake poured out oil when removed the boost piping i have pulled all had oil in them
the converter was oily before the brick inside and had oil coked in it as well.
i obviously make sure its not overfull anymore, and im leaning towards the turbo as my oil consumption problem.....everyone keeps telling me the engine is shot or it needs a new head but i just cant get past all the oil in the piping and intake.....if it was guides, it would only be on the valves themselves, not in the intake manifold. rings..... same thing, and i would think it would pour out smoke under boost....but its only when idling and at max vacuum.
the wife drives this car for about 2 hours on her commute everyday and most of that was in bumper to bumper traffic at a standstill....we just moved out of town so iv yet to figure out the differences in oil consumption on new commute....its still using a quart a week best i can tell.
the intake came back off this weekend for valve inspection and it is almost as bad as the pic above....only diff is the intake runners are not as bad. also, this time when trying to walnut blst them, the gunk refused to come off. spent 2 days jacking with it and only got the stems clean. gave up.
still has reduced power mode on every drive, cleared with torque app.
when looking at it last weekend, i noticed coolant coming off pipe behind waterpump so i replaced the tstat housing with a gates unit, and got a genuine mini tube.
now i have a code for coolant temp out of range...FML, 2 body codes that i have no idea what they are, and a small evap leak code as well. weekend went to hell in a handbasket quick...lol
so i am going to plug the passenger side port on the valve cover next to see if that helps
and i am saving my pennies for a new aftermarket hybrid turbo, meth kit, and tune
also trying to plant a seed in the back of my mind that i need to find a core engine and start building one with balanced forged internals, and a big valve ported head.
my wife loves this car to death and the only way i can see getting her out of it is to buy a brand new mini jcw or a gp car...something i will NOT do.
i tried corvette, camaro, porsche....she aint having it....
so if it needs valve guides or rings to fix the issue.....looks like its getting done in my garage with some help from family.
Guess your thinking small block chevy motor at this point. Lolol
Dam you have been on top of it sounds like.
If I was home I would send you my oem turbo to test with, sounds like your seal might be blown . Where did you see coolant? In the intake piping ?
If you pass leak down and compression is good I wouldn't think the motor is shot, I would hunt down a turbo ( not Chinese) and give that a try.
Where did you get the valve cover? They have a new and improved version, dealer changed mine out without asking and wanted 600, I ******* and got it for 300
Often excessive oil consumption is caused by a faulty head cover.
The MINI's turbocharger doesn't have oil seals, oil is kept in the pedestal bearings by close tolerances. Bearing wear can cause lubricating oil to leak into the turbocharger and get burned up. If you take the inlet hose off of the turbocharger and try and move the turbine wheel, there should be no play radially or axially.
i got the valve cover from my local mini dealer... talked them into matching ebay prices.
the water leak was external where that pipe breaks behind water pump. it was just dripping off of the pipe at a few diff spots.
im going to order the blockoff plug for the pass side and try it.
im also getting a turbo asafp.....but im poorish right now...just bought too much house.
i also just figured out i frickin overfilled the oil when i put the valve cover on.....i had the damn car up on a jack stand only on one side....filled it and checked it that way....then sent her down the road... must have been a quart overfull again..... dumb
i was thinking about just ordering a turbo drain tube for kicks as well....maybe that thing has oil coked in it too
im ALWAYS thinking small block chevy, more specifically, LS....LOL
i have 2 donor trucks with 5.3s waiting to be stripped right now, and im looking at a suburban with a 5.3 this weekend for 300 bones....needs rear axle and interior is shot
i have 3 s10s that need ls swapped, a transam, and a geo metro thats getting a turbo motor ....that i am threatening to just ls swap ....just because everyone says it cant be done. im thinking c5 automatic 5.7... cut 11 inches from the torque tube, and cut the floor out.....simple....lol
OK, I know this is second gen forced induction discussion, but is this something I'd want to consider on my 1st gen Justa?
Also, I know Tracy said not to Seafoam a turbo car, but is it OK to try to clean my NA W10 w/ 165000 miles?
05-03-2017, 04:41 AM
