Hello NAM,

Recently I was given the opportunity to test the new ALTA diverter valve. It has been on the car for the past week and so far am very happy with it. I changed over form the the Forge unit and there are quite a few differences in the two. The Alta unit is completely vacuum/boost operated so the ecu/solenoid is no longer at play. The Alta uses a MAP sensor spacer to connect your vacuum line just like the forge. Alta included a resistor in the kit to insert into the solinoid plug. In the pictures below you will see that I used the extension from the forge kit. This was not included with the Alta kit. Without the solinoid/ecu this means a virtually instantanious release once you let off the throttle. I was amazed at the difference in release time between the Forge and Alta. When driving in traffic there are points that it actually surprises me when it releases. I used the AP to watch the pressures to judge the timing of the valve. From what I have seen on my auto the valve is open from roughly -11 PSI to -2.5 PSI then it closes as the car enters boost. One side effect of this is that while under low throttle input and while accelerating in vacuum you can hear a slight whistle as the pressure builds. While this was slightly annoying at first I have completely gotten used to it and don't even notice it anymore. I am running the Alta intake and the sound probably won't be an issue on any enclosed intake system. While on the subject of sound the Alta does have a higher pitch release note than the stock and Forge unit. Nothing to crazy just different. I will try to take a sound clip and post it later this week. Now for the pictures.

Sorry for the bad Picture quality they were taken in the poor light inside our auto hobby shop on base.

Alta valve sitting on the work bench.


Alta valve compared to the Forge valve.



Top view


Alta installed on the car.




Resistor plugged into the extender.


I just realized that I did not take any pictures of the MAP spacer where the vacuum line is ran to/from the valve. I will take one tomorrow if the weather is good and update the post. If you have any direct questions feel free to shoot me a PM or post below.

-Brian

 

looks good. i just got the forge but havn't put it in yet. if only i waited a bit longer.

 

I like it better than the Forge. I have also noticed that with the valve open under vacuum it seems to help with the lag in the throttle during start/stop driving.

 

when is this gonna be released and how much?

 

Interesting......I will watch to see where this goes.

 

Besides my terrible write up skills its going pretty good. Still no complaints. Waiting to get it on the Ring for the true testing.

 

Any update with sound clip? Thanks

 

Interesting, seems to make sense that this is how the DV should be actuated as opposed to solenoid.

Keep us posted on any feedback.

Any idea when this will hit the market?

 

We actually have a few of these ready right now for testers to help give us feedback on the parts and instructions. If anyone's interested, send me a PM, thanks!

 

I'm interested in testing this. PM sent!

 

I will try to get the sound clips this weekend!!

 

I installed this unit today. The quality is good, and install was pretty straight forward. I had to tape down the resistor in the solenoid because it felt loose and with the coilovers I'm running I was afraid it might fall out. I have the whistle at low speed as well and it is more prominent with my dos clone intake. I don't mind it tho, my gf surely does. The bov vents very easily on low boost but holds strong until 17psi. I like the size of this unit, it's like 1/3 of the oem diverter valve. Now I just have to shortened the vacuum line and zip tie it somewhere.

 

For sure the whistle (turbo sucking sound) is going to be normal but it shouldn't be loud and annoying. That sound is from the BOV being lifted off the hole on the compressor housing during light loads where the turbo is starting to push air. We have some great data on why you need this part we will publish soon. It may scare you a little......

One of the reasons why we haven't really released this part 100% is because of the resister issue. In the end, the tape is simple and may be the most economical way of doing this. Overall if enough customers feel ok with this taping, then it will be ready for release very soon!

 

Interesting.

I will be watching this thread closely, especially if there's big news afoot. Im assuming something relating to the stock design being less than optimal?!?!?!?

 

Ding!

 

I've had mine installed for two days now and am thoroughly impressed.

I will try to explain even though I don't think I can put it into words.

At all times while hammering the mini, boost is able to build, dump and rebuild at a significantly faster, smoother, and more controlled rate. The controlled part is the most impressive and yet the toughest to explain and simply needs to be driven.

My DOS intake would often cause the turbo to flutter. Almost as if it was choking for a second or two if I quickly altered my acceleration. This does not occur anymore! The turbo quickly dumps and reengages to start building boost again.

It does whistle but it you forget about it quickly.

I am really happy I tried this out.

I've passed my thoughts onto Chris and Jeff. Jeff responded quickly and answered/summed up all my points.

I Love it.
Steve

 

alta2,

in the real world, there is nasty stuff like salt on the roads.....a resistor pushed into a connector like that is a sure problem down the road, electrical tape is neither permanent nor does it provide an environmental seal and ultimately corrosion will attack the connector/resistor interface

2 easy possible solutions:

1. get a mating connector and mount the resistor in it, potting it in with epoxy

2. get a hold of shrink caps, like shrink tubing, but with one closed end, then use it to provide both retention of the resistor and an environmental seal to the connector

either of the above should provide a robust and reversible solution

scott (they call me "sparky" in the aircraft hangers)

ps when will this be available for my countryman s all4?

 

I have a couple of different sized rubber/shrinking caps. Had the same thought you did. Unfortunately, none fit. Tomorrow I'm going to test a few different options.

My biggest issue with tape is the prolonged exposure to heat fro the turbo. It will become gunky and peel away leaving a mess.

 

i have access to a wholesale connector supplier......

if anyone knows the brand and part number of the wire harness connector, i will see if i can get a mating connector

i will install and pot a resistor AT MY COST for anyone who would like one

i will post my cost for the connector once i can source it

using a mated pair provides a weather-proof and reversible connection

scott

 

Sounds like a great solution. Count me in for one if you can get the right connector.

 

x2 on that connector

 

I just installed mine. First off, I definitely agree with the resistor connection comments. Something more permanent than tape should be used. I'm afraid it will either fall off or eventually become gummy when the heat melts the glue on the tape.

I was having problems getting it to hold boot over 15psi. Up to 15 though it was very good. The response is very fast and even takeoff from a stop seemed to be crisper. It felt a lot better than than the stock diverter valve.

I could never get it to hold boost beyond 15psi and beyond that it would exhibit symptoms of boost cut. It wasn't going into boost but but to explain what it felt like that's it.

After adding zip ties to both ends of the boost tap hose I took it out for another test drive and now I have no boost at all above 2psi. It feels like a justa.

I have the BSH OCC with the PCV delete and I'm tapped there. I used thread seal on the tap outlet but will check it again tomorrow.

Anyone have any ideas as to what it could be?

 

My guess is the wire ties are sitting too far down on the tap's barb and actually cutting off flow.

Not sure the difference between using the PCV delete and the Alta boost tap at the MAP sensor. I'm guessing no difference.

According to what I've read the stock mini diverter valves leak. Jeff also mentioned this in our correspondence. That drops load and thus ecu ups boost to compensate.

I have found that I'm running roughly the same but it takes a little more to get there. When I do hit max, it holds it better. Standard driving is up a little, from 7ish to 9ish.

What are you using to measure boost?

 

I checked the ties and they're far down towards the base of the connectors so no chance that they're cutting off flow.

I tightened the Alta DV by hand as recommended so I'm guessing the o-ring has sealed the air behind it. I'm hesitant to tighten it more for fear of cracking the plastic housing.

At this point I'm guessing the leak is somewhere around the BSH boost tap, or at least I hope that's the issue. I think I'll try the tap that goes above the MAP sensor. Seems like a better place anyway. After changing boost taps and it still doesn't hold pressure than something more serious is definitely going on.

I'm using a scan gauge to measure boost.

 

Shrink tubes might be a good idea for sure. The OEM connector is hard to get, and the few that look to be correct require super high qty (1000) to get. Then if they are wrong...

I wil see if there is shrink tubing wide enough for that.

For sure that is a concern. We have done this before on a couple of Subaru models in similar fashion. In 10 years of doing this, we have NEVER had anything weird come up where they fell out. Maybe gooy, but that is about it. Also where this ends up sitting is pretty far from the turbo.

But this is part of the reason why we are still "testing them".


Interesting for sure. So a couple of things. If you got one of the newer ones (where we assembled them fully so you didn't have to) it should be good. If you unscrewed the plastic cap from the back, then the diaphragm may not be centered. If that is all good, then i would check your BSH part. Also for future users, the BSH part may not be the best thing to use. The reason is that the crank case vent hose has some delay to it. Its attached to the manifold, at the manifold there is a small hole it breaths through. THen you have that long, large ID plastic hose. It could cause a delay in the vacuum signal as you go from full throttle to lift. This in turn could cause compressor surge. I have not used one of these to know, but its a possibility.For the most part, as long as its not leaking, it shouldn't effect boost.

Do you have an AccessPORT as well?