I think I've discussed this on another thread. You need a working recirculating valve to avoid throwing error codes. A VTA in our application is only going to make noise. I ran a VTA BOV with the stock recirc valve and ALTA spring for quite a while and it was great, the stock valve alone would shred frequently The VTA/stock combo allowed the stock valve to survive. I pulled the VTA BOV to go more stealth and replaced the stock valve with the ALTA Recirculation Valve. The Alta Recirc works great and survives on my Stage 4 car.

 

The benefit of our diverter is that it runs like the factory BOV where it recirculates the air back into the intake, and it's able to withstand a high amount of boost over a long time. A VTA is going to vent air to atmosphere, and can cause issues with CELs and stumbling even when the factory diverter isn't being used.

 

I think my resistor failed the other day. I was driving on a highway at 75mph and the tach gave me a yellow CEL and the car went into limp mode. Does this sound like a resistor issue? Also how critical is the 2.1K ohm or would 2.2K work? The 2.1's are few and far between.

 

As I've offered before . . .
Resistors 2.1k ohms 1/4 Watt 1%
I've got 100 (now 80) resistors, I'm certain I'll never need that many.
If anyone wants extras, I'll send you 10 by US mail for $2 (now $4). Send me PM if interested.

 

WHen my resistor blew i got no CEL the car just didnt build boost. If you got a CEL and limp mode it sounds more like a boost leak.

 

My 09 factory jcw bov with the alta stiffy spring failed and leaked, got a cel and went to limp mode. Code p28aa, bypass valve issue was shown on the cobb ap. Called Jeff and Chris at Alta on a monday, very informative conversation on their diverter valve, ordered one, came in 2 days. Installed the next day, about one hour, somewhat difficult to install/twist the 3 hexbolts, have to be patient and rotate the hexbolts in sequential order.

Stock bov had a failed plastic sleeve, cleared cel with ap, and fired up the motor. Wow, throttle response much better with the Alta vacuum diverter valve, holds the boost, and driveability much better with stop/go traffic and high rpm shifting. Overall, much better and highly recommended than the stock solenoid based bov. In talking with mini techs, the stock bov failure is common post 50k miles btw. Give it a try.

 

I've been running this valve since it's debut in testing. I have Alta's Billet Turbo with Stage 4 tune and shredded the stock diaphragm multiple times. I had boost spikes and generally poor performance with the stock valve. The Alta spring was a significant improvement, this solved all the issues.

This piece has been flawless now for 3 years running significantly high boost in SoCal. Not cheap, but worth every penny.

 

I know that I'm reviving an old thread here, but can anyone confirm if this can be used on the N18 motor? I have a 2012 Clubman S, and according to Alta's site it is not a supported model year? I saw that someone with a 2011 MCS was looking at getting one, but they either didn't, or I missed the post where they had.

Thanks in advance.

Mike

 

For sure the CRV will not work on the N18 motors. The N18 motors are setup differently so there isn't an easy way to get a reliable boost source.

 

Chris,

Thanks for getting back to me bro, I appreciate it. I guess it'll have to be the upgraded spring for now then.

Mike

 

Anyone that's interested I have an Alta CRV for sale in the gen 2 sale area. Sold my coupe and can't use it on my new car with the N18 engine. Great device. Bummed it can't be swapped.

Sent from my iPhone using NAMotoring

 

I had this fitted on my car yesterday and the car would not boost at all. We made sure it was configured as per the instructions and then also took it apart to check it was assembled correctly. We believe as others have mentioned that the fault is with a broken/damaged resistor.

I have sent Alta an email so hopefully they can assist with sending out a replacement (I am in the UK).

The garage had fitted one the previous week to another car and it worked perfectly, frustrating that it wouldn't work on mine.

 

I got some support from Alta suggesting I tried running the valve with the stock diver valve plugged in a cable tied out the way to see if that worked. Thankfully it did.

Have the stock valve plugged in instead of the resistor that can be a bit fiddly and come loose or fail seems a better idea. Its cable tied safely out the way and shouldn't come loose.

I haven't done many miles on it yet but it seems to be working well. You do notice the slight reduction in response/nippy feeling the car has with the stock valve but I guess people running high boost/power are more focussed about the car holding the boost up top and dealing with gear changes.

 

Has anyone else had issues with the transition from half throttle to full throttle?

I did a track day yesterday and had issues coming out of the corners as I went from part throttle full throttle. It was almost like the valve was getting stuck and not giving full boost. As soon as I came off the throttle and went back to full throttle it gave full boost again.

It appears that the valve either likes full boost or no boost, anything in between and it seems to struggle.

 

LMAO. The solution to their shoddy part is to use the stock part in it's place giving you something that needs to be rigged out of the way all ghetto. Pathetic response rather than just improving their resistor.

 

If you are in sport mode, it could be because when you are at part throttle, it can be very close to full throttle since the throttle is much more sensitive.

It could also have something to do with the tune, it'd be hard to say without looking at a datalog.

 

I run a linear throttle map that's not affected by the sport button on my tune. Just strange how the transition from part throttle to full throttle was not producing the boost then lifting off the throttle and going back on it have full boost. The car boosted to 17-18 psi lap after lap for 20 minutes so I don't think it's the ECU. I think coming off the throttle reset the valve and then it worked fine. The good thing is that I didn't notice any boost being leaked and apart from the random issues existing some corners it worked well.

Over the next few weeks I will experiment with another setup to see if that cures it. I would like to do some data logging but it's not cheap to buy the Bavarian Technic tool/software.

 

Thanks George, keep me updated, send me an email or PM on here, thanks again!

 

So its easier to understand what I am talking about listen on the exit of the corner:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4h-kh...utu.be&t=1m32s

Watch from 1:30

 

It's hard to say from watching the video. If you're flooring it through the turn, and it seems like the engine is cutting out, it seems like it would be something else. We've done a lot of testing of the CRV on the track and on the street, and haven't had that issue before. If you're flooring it, then lifting, then getting back on the gas again, it might have a little delay, but it doesn't sound like that's what's happening.

 

I don't have the crv yet but my car does the exact same thing your describing, I believe it's something with my tune, as soon as I lift and get back on it it will be fine, makes it hard to pull out into traffic occasionally.

 

I had some engine work done after I installed the Alta recirc. and 2.1k ohm resistor. I had the resistor taped and nylon strapped it to another cable to keep it safe. After the engine was removed and installed, everything was working fine. Today, I am throwing CEL lights and the codes suggest that the resistor might need replaced.
The problem is that I can not locate the cable for the original! I've looked at everything that I can easily see around the BOV and I just can't locate it.
DOES SOMEONE HAVE A PIC OF THE ORIGINAL CABLE? If I can locate where it is supposed to be, that might help me some. Thanks in advance for any help!

EDIT: I found the cable, replaced the resistor. But that wasn't the problem. It ended up being a torn diaphragm inside the diverter valve. I called Alta and they shipped a replacement to me under warranty. I am under the impression that the diaphragm was defective from the beginning. It was never any louder than the stock one (that I'm using again at the moment) and the OEM one actually "feels" better! I will be anxious for the replacement as I am sure I will notice a difference.

I'll post an update.

 

Would be very helpful to be able to view the pictures...were they removed intentionally?

 

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