Drivetrain Alta Diverter Valve Install and Test Opinion (With Pics)
Is the sound is like a slight whistle? While only partially on the throttle while still in Vaccum you will hear the DV whistle. It is normal and does not effect anything. Just takes some time to get used to!
My experience so far is that if the resistor goes you will get 0 boost. None. You will not even hear the turbo and the car feels like poo. But I never got a cel or limp mode. So it would be something to check.
My experience so far is that if the resistor goes you will get 0 boost. None. You will not even hear the turbo and the car feels like poo. But I never got a cel or limp mode. So it would be something to check.
it seems like it....I have refit and tight it again, same whistling sound....
other than that whistling, everything seems better.
What map are you using?
This AM I put the Stage 2 TPS (what I run in summer and most familiar with), and in stop and go 0-55 traffic I never saw anything over 9psi. Hard run on ramp saw 16-18, and then a WOT 6th gear pull saw 19.9psi.
Before the the Diverter Valve I would see 12-14psi in stop and go traffic, with peaks of 21 on ramp runs.
I'm choosing to think of this as a good thing. While technically less boost, it is a more consistent and predictable power band. I would love to see a comparison of dyno charts with the DV.
This AM I put the Stage 2 TPS (what I run in summer and most familiar with), and in stop and go 0-55 traffic I never saw anything over 9psi. Hard run on ramp saw 16-18, and then a WOT 6th gear pull saw 19.9psi.
Before the the Diverter Valve I would see 12-14psi in stop and go traffic, with peaks of 21 on ramp runs.
I'm choosing to think of this as a good thing. While technically less boost, it is a more consistent and predictable power band. I would love to see a comparison of dyno charts with the DV.
Not sure what the problem was that day. I suppose the car coulda been cold though I don't think so. As we all know sometimes cars just do strange things. MINI's seem particularly adept at this lol. This DV really is a nice addition. Looking forward to adding my turbo back exhaust here soon and on to stage 2/3!
We're the ambient temperatures different? The boost will vary with temperature. You will see higher boost levels with a higher ambient temp or higher intake manifold temps. So if you are comparing runs on a 35 degree day to a run on a 50 degree day it could explain the differences.
-Brian
-Brian
That will work. Wattage doesn't really matter though for this.
-Steven
Resistors 2.1k ohms 1/4 Watt 1%
I've just ordered a lot of 100 resistors, I'm certain I'll never need that many.
If anyone wants extras, I'll send you 10 by US mail for $2. Send me PM if interested.
If anyone wants extras, I'll send you 10 by US mail for $2. Send me PM if interested.
I was thinking the same, except I cannot find a temp. rating on the liquid tape I have. I'm a little worried it might melt out. So, for now I'm running 3m electrical tape, it has a 220F degree rating. So far, it's doing the job, just wish I could make it more waterproof. Let me know what you do.
-Steven
-Steven
Steven. Not sure which brand you have but the Gardner Bender brand of liquid elec tape I picked up at Lowes has a -30 to +200 degree F rating. I bought the stuff after you had mentioned it during a discussion via pm. I ended up wrapping my resistor/plug in 3M Super 88 electric tape which is what i had on hand during install and its held like a champ so far. Its thicker and has a better temp/weather rating than the usual 3M 33 stuff. No drying, cracking, turning gummy or peeling away but then its only been on since Nov.
I've thought about removing it and trying the liquid tape but the standard tape is working fine so far and I worry about how difficult it might be to remove the liquid tape if I ever have to since I'm sure it'll fill every nook and cranny of that plug.
my solution is a shrink tube cap, here is a source but most electronics catalog companies should have them
http://www.cableorganizer.com/heat-s...caps/#features
these are adhesive lined and will provide an environmental seal while retaining the resistor

scott
http://www.cableorganizer.com/heat-s...caps/#features
these are adhesive lined and will provide an environmental seal while retaining the resistor

scott
That looks like a pretty ideal solution. The hardest part about wrapping the plug with electric tape is getting your hands in there enough to do it without bungling the tape all up.
Do these shrink tubes conform down onto the resistor enough to help keep it in place and what size did you go with?
Do these shrink tubes conform down onto the resistor enough to help keep it in place and what size did you go with?
Last edited by TerminalVelocity; Feb 5, 2013 at 08:30 PM.
That looks like a pretty ideal solution. The hardest part about wrapping the plug with electric tape is getting your hands in there enough to do it without bungling the tape all up.
Do these shrink tubes conform down onto the resistor enough to help keep it in place and what size did you go with?
Do these shrink tubes conform down onto the resistor enough to help keep it in place and what size did you go with?
as to size, i will have to wait until i get mine, but i always have an assortment on hand
scott
edit
in this application, i would use adhesive lined shrink tube and cap to get an environmental seal
scott
Ahh I see. My bad, I assumed you'd installed one. Great idea though and at the price for the shrink tubing I can pick up an assortment to try out. Ill measure the female plug tomorrow to get an idea on sizes to get.
As I mentioned the tape is holding up great but I wouldn't mind trying a cleaner more efficient way to deal with it and forget about it.
As I mentioned the tape is holding up great but I wouldn't mind trying a cleaner more efficient way to deal with it and forget about it.
Ahh I see. My bad, I assumed you'd installed one. Great idea though and at the price for the shrink tubing I can pick up an assortment to try out. Ill measure the female plug tomorrow to get an idea on sizes to get.
As I mentioned the tape is holding up great but I wouldn't mind trying a cleaner more efficient way to deal with it and forget about it.
As I mentioned the tape is holding up great but I wouldn't mind trying a cleaner more efficient way to deal with it and forget about it.
-Steven
shrink tube caps
here is a link to shrink caps from mcmaster carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink-end-caps/=lrj5b3

and another link to shrink tube splitters, useful for firewall penetration
http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink...itters/=lrj8sy

scott
http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink-end-caps/=lrj5b3

and another link to shrink tube splitters, useful for firewall penetration
http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink...itters/=lrj8sy

scott
here is a link to shrink caps from mcmaster carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink-end-caps/=lrj5b3

and another link to shrink tube splitters, useful for firewall penetration
http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink...itters/=lrj8sy

scott
http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink-end-caps/=lrj5b3

and another link to shrink tube splitters, useful for firewall penetration
http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink...itters/=lrj8sy

scott
-Steven
The constant whistle of this crv under hard accelleration does not mean that I'm losing boost? The original BOV whistled when acceleration stopped thus releasing pressure. A constant whistle with the Alta CRV makes me think that its constantly releasing pressure. Is this accurate? Is this desireable?
It should only whistle under light acceleration. The DV will stay open until you hit about 2 "PSI" of vacuum then it will close and you will hear the turbo whine kick in. But for city driving it pretty much stays open all the time. You can use your AP to monitor your boost levels and it should support what I stated above.
OK, so this seems like a pretty good idea! I'm ready to do it but I have a couple of questions. Will this work off of the BSH Boost Port I have installed in support of the OCC, and is there any securing fix out of the box for retaining and protecting the resistor yet? Thanks!
I'm not sure exactly where the BSH boost port is designed to go, it almost sounds like it's coming from the breather line off the intake manifold. That should be OK.
We are still using the resistor, and it works fine.
We are still using the resistor, and it works fine.
I guess if it is being used as a plug it isn't going to be drawing any vacuum through the valve cover... lol. On the resistor, I was wondering if there was a consensus of how the resistor was being protected\secured in the socket once installed.
ok, this might sound like a dumb question but Im sure you guys could help me out with this. Is there an added benefit of running this diverter valve w/ the resistor as opposed to running an VTA BOV with the same type of resistor?


