Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain M7..............On a diet again.

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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 05:56 PM
  #1  
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The idea of getting some more weight out of the car is always looming in the horizon. Months ago I decided that pulling
the battery box would save some fairly substantial amount of weight, after talking to my good buddy TonyB who is
also on a quest of lightnes both of us decided to go for it......

The plan was to plasma cut the box out of the car wich would have taken all of 60sec but the plasma tool was not available to me sooooo I used a sawzall with a metal blade, and the rest is history.

I added the aluminum plate by using construction addesive and steel rivets, cut the opening for the powerwire body
gasket and that was it. The battery will end up in a plastic battery box bolted to the floor....

Weight saved 8lbs (battery box).

weight saved small battery 20lbs

Weight added 1.5lbs Aluminum plate

And the best part of this uppgrade is the straigt path for the Supertrapp exhaust, saving even more weight.

And if I get bored I will work on a diffuser to add some more down force

peter








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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 06:53 PM
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Wow, that's a savings of 26.5 lbs right off the front of the car! Good clean job too. Using the small battery, will that be adequate to power the MINI, and I wonder how long the battery will last? Again, great job at weight reduction Peter and TonyB.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 07:07 PM
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Impressive. I bet if you really wanted to keep things clean, you could tuck that battery somewhere behind a body panel or something. Good work.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 07:46 PM
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M7,

How much does your car weigh? Also how fast is it? Numbers please.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 07:47 PM
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From: bham,al.
>>
>>T.
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>>And the best part of this uppgrade is the straigt path for the Supertrapp exhaust, saving even more weight.
>>which supertrap? ive seen good dynos on the 4" x 17" long, however would the 24" fit and since the noise is less would the hp suffer? good plan though. also post some more info on the battery. thanks.
>
>>

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>>_________________
>>Lightest and fastest in SoCal
&gt;&gt;<A HREF="http://www.teammightyminiz.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=40" TARGET="_blank">

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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 07:56 PM
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It sure was fun to take the sawzall to the &quot;Mule&quot;......

The weight of the car I realy don't know, but I will put it on the scales later next week and I let you know.

How fast the car is? I don't dragrace so I usualy don't time 0-60mph, One thing I can say is this car kick *** on
the track and in the canyons no one touch me.

My preference is the 24&quot; unit, I have dyno charts floating around here at NAM from a couple of pulls.
If I remember right we saw at least a 10 hp gain from stock with substantially more torque....

peter

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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 08:12 PM
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How do you know your car is the &quot;Lightest and fastest in SoCal&quot; if you don't know how light or how fast it is?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 08:19 PM
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&gt;&gt;Wow, that's a savings of 26.5 lbs right off the front of the car!...

Well the battery and box is already in the rear originally, so it has an even lighter rear end.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 09:08 PM
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Cool mod. How do yo think that battery would do at


If it would be OK, I might like to do a similar thing in my MC to get more
room for an intake.

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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 09:54 PM
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Peter,
Very Nice.
Which model Odyssey battery did you use?
How does the finished boot look?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 10:06 PM
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Good job Peter! You beat me to the punch on this one. I see how you cut yours now. I'm going to still try to cut mine as I explained (just where the box turns down), mostly because my aluminum sheet has already been cut for that dimension...

I like how you replicated the elongated hole for the rubber boot on the hot lead. Looks very clean. I see that you left the BST in tact. That is probably a very wise decision as it seems to have some vital functions. I hope you didn't have the SRS light come on though. That yellow connector is for the bags. Apparently, if you disco the battery first, then disco the yellow connector, one can avoid the SRS light from coming on...

So, what thickness is that sheet of aluminum? I went with .063&quot;. Oh, and what adhesive did you use and what size pop rivets?

SLA batteries are pretty slick. I've been running with one for over a year now. They don't like heat, so the MCS's location away from the engine is quite ideal. As far as cold goes, I don't recall. I can say that mine sits outside at night in a canyon that has seen high teens, and low 20s, but nothing like Trippy's example! Here is a great link on these batteries:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm

I've emailed the guy a few times, and he has been most helpful!

If I were to go with a ST, I'd go with the 24&quot; one. But for those thinking big HP, they don't recommend anything over 250 HP though, for the 4&quot; discs. The weight-savings are very nice, but the fact that you can now have a straight shot from the cat out the rear valence is really cool. Please share pictures when you get the the exhuast in place!


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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 10:40 PM
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Dear Andy

So far no one in a Mini has been able to beat me, on or of the track, and the hunch is that no one is as crazy as I am
when it commes to shaking the weight from the &quot;Mule&quot;. So for now I'm lightest and fastest (not dragracing)
untill some one proves me wrong

peter
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 10:50 PM
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The battery is a Hawker Odyssey PC 680 someting or another, this guy who is in the professional racing world
recomended me to go with this battery said most cart teams use the Hawker brand drycells.

To finish up the install I will get a plastic or aluminum battery box, as most racing organizations require you to enclose
the battery. I will uppdate with fresh pic's when I get a chance,

Honestly I have no idea how thick the aluminum was but I would guess a little thicker then yours as I wanted some stiffnes in the sheet. The glue was $1.89 Home Depot Liquid nails worked like a charm. The rivets where steel 1/8&quot;
standard size.

peter

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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 08:34 AM
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M7 wrote:

So for now I'm lightest and fastest (not dragracing) untill some one proves me wrong
I find a great deal of humor in that sort of assertation in your posts and propoganda. You apparently do not feel the need to present any sort of evidence to back up your often outrageous claims. Using the same logic, I have the fastest MINI in the known Universe since I have never had another MINI beat me in racing.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 08:40 AM
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&gt;&gt;I find a great deal of humor in that sort of assertation in your posts and propoganda. You apparently do not feel the need to present any sort of evidence to back up your often outrageous claims. Using the same logic, I have the fastest MINI in the known Universe since I have never had another MINI beat me in racing. :smile:
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 08:53 AM
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Mini_Street_Racer,

No, you are using REAL logic.

By the M7 logic, since no MINI ever beat me while racing against me, I have the fastest MINI. The one time I raced against #2 (Frank), I beat him. If you want proof, the burden is on you to prove me wrong.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 09:12 AM
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&gt;&gt;The one time I raced against #2 (Frank), I beat him. If you want proof, the burden is on you to prove me wrong.

now that doesn't make sense, 's like, &quot;I out ran a RUF RGT in My stock Cooper S, prove me wrong&quot; (although I have! Was a 1:10 scale model, but that is definately OT)
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 09:30 AM
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I think you are starting to understand M7 &quot;logic&quot;.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 11:13 AM
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Man, every M7 topic seems to be ending up way off in the weeds lately...

Anyway, question: You guys are using Aluminum?? Aluminum has a very high Thermal Conductivity, meaning all the heat from the exhaust (especially straight design) is going into the car and into (close to) the battery.
http://www.matweb.com/search/Specifi...bassnum=MA0001

How about using a sheet of Stainless Steel, much lower Thermal Conductivity, like 10X lower (which is why it's used in heat shields).
http://www.matweb.com/search/Specifi...?bassnum=Q304A

Probably not a huge deal in this application, but i think Stainless steel sheets sit right next to the alumimum sheets at Home Depot :smile:

Heck, the C5 guys spend hundreds of dollars taking apart their perfectly good brake calipers to take out the aluminum pistons to replace them with SS ones!
http://www.dougrippie.com/drm/brake_components.htm --And scroll down to &quot;Stainless Steel Caliper Pistons&quot;
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 11:36 AM
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&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;Wow, that's a savings of 26.5 lbs right off the front of the car!...
&gt;&gt;
&gt;&gt;Well the battery and box is already in the rear originally, so it has an even lighter rear end.

Oh, I see Antranik. Thanks for the correction. (Or maybe I didn't see. )

Good points Dreamin. If the exhaust is not touching the aluminum, it may be OK, or at least may not transfer too much heat to the aluminum piece -- possibly?

Peter -- Keep up the design engineering and thinking of new things. We like (pleasant) surprises.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 11:41 AM
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Actually, a sheet of Carbon Fiber (though it would cost more) would weigh less than the aluminum, and retains a fraction of the heat.

Either way, cool mod Peter!!!

-Dan
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 02:11 PM
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Very good points and observations guys. I went with aluminum due to its cost per pound component. I believe my .063&quot; thickness was like $4.44 for my sheet...

The distance between the plate and the exhaust would vary of course depending on what one chooses to put below. It could be as much as several inches, to maybe an inch or two. If one is intrigued in this, and wants to read about the evolution of what I've been contemplating and doing, here is a thread (its gotten a bit long though):

http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45605

The heat is an issue, and not just for aluminum. The QS exhaust gets the thick metal floor quite warm on the passenger boot side of my MCS. For that reason, I will put my SLA battery elsewhere. Eventually, I'd like to mount it underneath, on the passenger side...
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 02:17 PM
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how is jeff's MCS number 1 w/o the ECU upgrade?? i kno he has Nitrous... but then how is he 1b??
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 03:11 PM
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Andy.......

What is it with numbers and you? I do not drag race, so who cares how fast I am in the quarter mile. I don't care
I never will and I will never give you a number period. Nothing fishy about that. I roadrace thats it, who cares
what the numbers are, my car handels unbeleivably well and if you don't wan't to take my word for it I'm sure there will be
some responses back from people who knows it first hand. Regarding steel or aluminum in this application...dudes
your thinking to much

PS Just pulled another 3lbs out of the rear....yeeeha I really think there's space for a diffuser....Hmmmm


peter


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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 07:34 PM
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I'm sorry that you don't understand that when you make quantitative claims, you will be asked for those quantities.

Quantitative
 
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