I recently replaced my valve-cover gasket. While researching that somebody recommended using anti seize on the gasket. So far it's working great.

Was thinking about doing the same for my oil pan. Thought it might help allow a little jostling of the pan from the mount, but still keep a decent seal. Any opinions?

 

I don't know the gasket specifically, but if a paper based one they would normally be installed dry or w/ Permatex, depending on repair manual guidelines and practical leak experience. Folks don't expect generally to remove the pan, so the best seal would be the desired result.

If a purely rubber type gasket, then I would expect no sealing compound, ther than perhaps at corners or ay areas is happens to wrap in a curve--on some pans either at pully side or output side.

In general, I only use antiseize on appropriate bolts and (carefully and sparingly) on spark plug threads. Any leaking oil pan experience has been prior to repair and never after per general approach above.

 

2nd that.
Antiseize is designed for metal surfaces.

 

Thanks for the replies.

It's a rubber gasket. As I understand it they are fairly common to leak, and before it would be common to expect it to leak on any other car. Mine looks like it's already been replaced once, there is gasket sealant on the outside edges. And it's at 80k miles, I've only had 2 cars with higher mileage then that but never had to do an oil pan gasket on either of those. The two reasons people seem to blame are:
1. The difference between an iron block and aluminum pan.
2. The fact that the oil pan is mounted directly to an engine mount. So when this flexes or has pressure exerted on it, it pushes/pulls the pan.

Also there are a few curves/bends to the gasket. I thought the anti-seize might help with the 2 problems above. If anti seize is not appropriate because of the rubber gasket, do you still suggest no gasket sealant either?

 

Permatex will seal any gasket issue.
There are 2 different types, one that will harden or cure (use on paper gaskets) the other type is a sealer that will not harden up. I use that type on rubber, cork or other materials.

 

Thanks, I'll look into the permatex.

 

You can use silicone RTV sealant on a rubber gasket. Put it sparingly on both sides, just a very thin coat. Make sure both sealing surfaces are very clean. Don't tighten the pan bolts very tight, just snug. The RTV makes the gasket very slippery before it cures and the gasket can squeeze out if you tighten the bolts too much. Let the RTV cure overnight and then snug up the pan bolts a little more, before you add oil.

The advantage to RTV silicone is that it will seal the gasket and be easy to remove in the future, without damaging the gasket.

Dave

 

Anybody who has actually had use their method on an r53 oil pan before?

 

I did the oil pan gasket on mine a year ago.

It's Steel reinforced rubber. It can't be over-torqued/smashed, unless you strip the bolts.
It should never leak and should be reuseable 2 or 3 times, unless you have alot of miles on it and it dries out.

If you need a little help sliding it around to get it in place, spray it with some silicone spray lubricant.

Other than that, no sealer should be required.

 

Thanks

 

Some of the oil pan bolts secure the pan to the block (smaller), and some secure the pan to the transmission housing (bigger). Thread in the small ones first, just tight enough to hold the gasket. Torque the bigger bolts to 1/2 the spec, then run the smaller ones up to 1/2 spec. Finish the bigger ones and then finish the smaller ones. This will allow the pan to seat properly and prevent the bigger transmission bolts from tugging on the gasket.

 

Would this work ?
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80060...=pd_sim_auto_5

Seems like gasket sealant should not be required, but since the mini's have such a problem with it I do not have to replace it again.

2006 R50 with 65k and mine leaks :(

 

Do not use high tack. If you ever have to take the gasket off again for any reason, it will come of and leave a sticky mess and lots of chunks of rubber.


If you really want to use a sealer, use an anaerobic sealer. it goes on like grease and cures with heat and time.

No left over stickyness. all gaps and scratches sealed.
I use it on high pressure diesel oil systems all the time.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-51813...6263717&sr=1-3

The mating surface must be completely clean. This would mean leaving the oil pan off over night, or parking the car and draining the oil for at least 24hours before you plan to pull it and reseal.

Other wise the oil can leave channels where it will eventually leak again. This is the same for all gaskets. Clean and dry, or it will leak.