Drivetrain New Mini owner looking to make the S go faster
New Mini owner looking to make the S go faster
Just bought a (New to me) 2006 Mini Cooper S and Ive read a lot from here over the past months and have been looking for ways to make this great handeling car handle better and faster. I have a BMP Racing Mini Cooper S Performance Intake bolt on. What are some other great buys for improving the Mini?
I've got 3 words for you:
Pulley Pulley Pulley.
Get a reduced diameter supercharger pulley. That will make the supercharger spin faster, creating more boost, creating more horsepower. This mod is absolutely the biggest bang-for-the-buck speed mod you can do.
They come in a few sizes, from 15% smaller than stock, down to 19% smaller than stock.
While many will tell you go with the smallest size, I recommend a 15% to 17%, for longevity. There are literally hundreds of threads about pulleys, so do a search and educate yourself.
You'll need to buy or rent 2 special tools to install it, (in order to get the belt and stock pulley off). While you're at it, you'll need a new belt, and colder heat range spark plugs are recommended, too.
Many vendors sell pullies: Alta, Detroit Tuned, Helix, Way Motor Works, Cravenspeed, Mini Mania, etc. The list is very long...
After you do a pulley, think about freeing up the exhaust with an aftermarket system.
Finally, get a custom dyno-tune or ECU software upgrade to make all those new parts play extra nice with one another. A tune isn't mandatory, but it sure makes good sense.
Other than that, you won't get much more power without going inside the engine, (head, cam, pistons), or adding headers or nitrous... AND spending beaucoup bucks!!!
Good luck.
Pulley Pulley Pulley.
Get a reduced diameter supercharger pulley. That will make the supercharger spin faster, creating more boost, creating more horsepower. This mod is absolutely the biggest bang-for-the-buck speed mod you can do.
They come in a few sizes, from 15% smaller than stock, down to 19% smaller than stock.
While many will tell you go with the smallest size, I recommend a 15% to 17%, for longevity. There are literally hundreds of threads about pulleys, so do a search and educate yourself.
You'll need to buy or rent 2 special tools to install it, (in order to get the belt and stock pulley off). While you're at it, you'll need a new belt, and colder heat range spark plugs are recommended, too.
Many vendors sell pullies: Alta, Detroit Tuned, Helix, Way Motor Works, Cravenspeed, Mini Mania, etc. The list is very long...
After you do a pulley, think about freeing up the exhaust with an aftermarket system.
Finally, get a custom dyno-tune or ECU software upgrade to make all those new parts play extra nice with one another. A tune isn't mandatory, but it sure makes good sense.
Other than that, you won't get much more power without going inside the engine, (head, cam, pistons), or adding headers or nitrous... AND spending beaucoup bucks!!!
Good luck.
Last edited by jonnieoh; Aug 24, 2010 at 10:14 AM.
Alta has also recently released their version of the ECU tune. A few early adopters here have posted some very positive first impressions.
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As you are in MI, give Chad at Detroit Tuned a look see.
http://www.detroittuned.com/shop/
Good peeps!
Jim
http://www.detroittuned.com/shop/
Good peeps!
Jim
First you should figure out what you are actually trying achieve and how much you are willing to spend.
I'm a student so my budget is rather modest so I just did the basics and stopped there.
For straight line acceleration, I first upgraded the intake and exhaust. Next came the pulley/plugs/belt. If you want to spend a bit more then get a tune afterward. The only way go even faster is to get inside the engine as someone mentioned above. Of course, you'd need to get one last tuning when you're finally done.
To sum it up, brand of intake makes little to no difference in performance. Foam filters yield a larger SC whine from what I heard. Exhausts differ in sound/appearance and slightly in performance. Some are more free flowing (wider piping) that others giving you just a bit of noticeable gain. There's a whole thread comparing mostly all known exhausts with links to sound clips as well as personal opinions. Pulley brands don't really matter. The aftermarket pulleys ranges from 15% to 19% reduction (sans the JCW pulley). It's a longevity vs. low-end torque choice. While you're down there, you might as well get the right belt and change the spark plugs as well. Getting the tune brings all these mods together and unleashes whatever additional power that can be found.
Now to corner faster, there are many ways to go about this. Swaybars are the best bang for buck deal. 19mm vs 21mm, solid vs hollow, endlinks, etc.; it depends on how you want the car to handle. You can go the aftermarket shocks (and or lowering springs) or the coilover route. Price and amount of adjustability are deciding factors. Do your research and pick the brands that offer what you are looking for. Just make sure you get the car properly aligned if you go lower. You might need to get extra bits to get the suspension properly adjusted, so prepare for new control arms and the like. Don't forget getting better tires if you have runflats (or all-seasons), those are probably the most important handling mod of all.
These are the basics that most consider when modding for speed. Watching your MINI progress is addicting to many. Set goals early or you're bound to get carried away.
You still have to worry about personalizing her. Stripes, shortshifters, detailing, etc. Making the MINI your own is just as fun as going faster to many. Something to keep in mind when creating a budget.
Do some good reading here, and you'll figure it out. have fun
I'm a student so my budget is rather modest so I just did the basics and stopped there.
For straight line acceleration, I first upgraded the intake and exhaust. Next came the pulley/plugs/belt. If you want to spend a bit more then get a tune afterward. The only way go even faster is to get inside the engine as someone mentioned above. Of course, you'd need to get one last tuning when you're finally done.
To sum it up, brand of intake makes little to no difference in performance. Foam filters yield a larger SC whine from what I heard. Exhausts differ in sound/appearance and slightly in performance. Some are more free flowing (wider piping) that others giving you just a bit of noticeable gain. There's a whole thread comparing mostly all known exhausts with links to sound clips as well as personal opinions. Pulley brands don't really matter. The aftermarket pulleys ranges from 15% to 19% reduction (sans the JCW pulley). It's a longevity vs. low-end torque choice. While you're down there, you might as well get the right belt and change the spark plugs as well. Getting the tune brings all these mods together and unleashes whatever additional power that can be found.
Now to corner faster, there are many ways to go about this. Swaybars are the best bang for buck deal. 19mm vs 21mm, solid vs hollow, endlinks, etc.; it depends on how you want the car to handle. You can go the aftermarket shocks (and or lowering springs) or the coilover route. Price and amount of adjustability are deciding factors. Do your research and pick the brands that offer what you are looking for. Just make sure you get the car properly aligned if you go lower. You might need to get extra bits to get the suspension properly adjusted, so prepare for new control arms and the like. Don't forget getting better tires if you have runflats (or all-seasons), those are probably the most important handling mod of all.
These are the basics that most consider when modding for speed. Watching your MINI progress is addicting to many. Set goals early or you're bound to get carried away.
You still have to worry about personalizing her. Stripes, shortshifters, detailing, etc. Making the MINI your own is just as fun as going faster to many. Something to keep in mind when creating a budget.
Do some good reading here, and you'll figure it out. have fun
along with a pulley, get a step colder plugs. NGK BRK7E. Along with the smaller belt.
As for exhaust. If you just want some extra tone.... then its not realy a high HP gain. Your money can be spent better elsewhere. for a good cat back its from 400-1k, for about a 3-8hp gain.
You can get a cam which will give you some hp and tq all around for 400.
If you are going for more mods down the road, id hold of for a tune untill after you do a head and bigger injectors.
For a tune, you dont need a new ecu, just a tune. There are many companys offering remote tunes now. I have seen tons of great results for RMW.
For the suspension id suggest just upgrading your rear sway bar to a 19 or 22mm bar. its up to you with how stiff you want it.....
If you decide to lower your car, you also need to look into front camber plates and rear end links to adjust for the lowering. Springs are around 200ish, the front camber plates are around 300-400, and the rear are 200. These are pretty much a must unless you like to chew up tires from the camber offset.
Have you looked into lighter wheels? The more you lighten your wheels, the more power can get to the ground. It improves everything more. Better turning, better aceleration, better stoping.
Everyone talks about how can i got faster? What about ok, now I can go faster.... Dont i need to stop better?
The stock brakes are fine, you just need to upgrade your pads. EBC and carbotech make some amazing pads.
I switched to carbotech bobcat pads for the front because i got horrible brake fade on the stock pads. They eliminated brake fade in about 95% of situations. If you plan on auto xing or anything else more intensive then a BBK might be necessary.
Hope this helps you out.!
Happy motoring!
As for exhaust. If you just want some extra tone.... then its not realy a high HP gain. Your money can be spent better elsewhere. for a good cat back its from 400-1k, for about a 3-8hp gain.
You can get a cam which will give you some hp and tq all around for 400.
If you are going for more mods down the road, id hold of for a tune untill after you do a head and bigger injectors.
For a tune, you dont need a new ecu, just a tune. There are many companys offering remote tunes now. I have seen tons of great results for RMW.
For the suspension id suggest just upgrading your rear sway bar to a 19 or 22mm bar. its up to you with how stiff you want it.....
If you decide to lower your car, you also need to look into front camber plates and rear end links to adjust for the lowering. Springs are around 200ish, the front camber plates are around 300-400, and the rear are 200. These are pretty much a must unless you like to chew up tires from the camber offset.
Have you looked into lighter wheels? The more you lighten your wheels, the more power can get to the ground. It improves everything more. Better turning, better aceleration, better stoping.
Everyone talks about how can i got faster? What about ok, now I can go faster.... Dont i need to stop better?
The stock brakes are fine, you just need to upgrade your pads. EBC and carbotech make some amazing pads.
I switched to carbotech bobcat pads for the front because i got horrible brake fade on the stock pads. They eliminated brake fade in about 95% of situations. If you plan on auto xing or anything else more intensive then a BBK might be necessary.
Hope this helps you out.!
Happy motoring!
Wow you've gotten alot of suggestions. Keep it simple and best bang for the buck will be a pulley and rear swaybar.
Since your in MI, the other posts are right go see chad at Detroit tuned, he'll take good care of you. I'd love your business but when you have someone good so close and that I actually trust go there and you'll be fine.
Since your in MI, the other posts are right go see chad at Detroit tuned, he'll take good care of you. I'd love your business but when you have someone good so close and that I actually trust go there and you'll be fine.
+1 on above advice --solid as a rock. However, if you are a DIYer, here's a page that will direct you to any mod or part you might need: http://soopercooperinfo.com/lindaminidiy11-09.html Keep us posted on your progress
Hmm I have seen this rear sway bar suggestion all over the place. What makes it so much better over the stock sway?
EDIT: nevermind, I get it. I guess this is another to add to my list.
EDIT: nevermind, I get it. I guess this is another to add to my list.
Although all the bases are covered here, I do want to throw the acronym out there.
P.I.E.
and replacing stock runflats and wheels will make a big difference too. Most stock wheels are in the range of 25lbs.
P.I.E.
and replacing stock runflats and wheels will make a big difference too. Most stock wheels are in the range of 25lbs.
Wow you've gotten alot of suggestions. Keep it simple and best bang for the buck will be a pulley and rear swaybar.
Since your in MI, the other posts are right go see chad at Detroit tuned, he'll take good care of you. I'd love your business but when you have someone good so close and that I actually trust go there and you'll be fine.
Since your in MI, the other posts are right go see chad at Detroit tuned, he'll take good care of you. I'd love your business but when you have someone good so close and that I actually trust go there and you'll be fine.
Simple start the rear swaybar will improve the handling more than any other part for the dollar.
How it works is the new rear swaybar will be larger/thicker. This makes the bar stiffer and with a whole lot more explaining on springs and shocks causing the force to transfer across the car with the bar. But ultimately improving the cornering of the car. With the bigger rear swaybar the car will stay flatter in the corners and more neutral. Allowing you to make the rear end come around in the corner and get you out straight and fast. Not the most scientific answer but hope that helps you understand it more.
We only recommend the Hsport rear swaybars
http://www.waymotorworks.com/h-sport...-bar-19mm.html
How it works is the new rear swaybar will be larger/thicker. This makes the bar stiffer and with a whole lot more explaining on springs and shocks causing the force to transfer across the car with the bar. But ultimately improving the cornering of the car. With the bigger rear swaybar the car will stay flatter in the corners and more neutral. Allowing you to make the rear end come around in the corner and get you out straight and fast. Not the most scientific answer but hope that helps you understand it more.
We only recommend the Hsport rear swaybars
http://www.waymotorworks.com/h-sport...-bar-19mm.html
Also, mind you, the stiffer/thicker the Sway bar, the more prone to oversteer the car is. Take it slowly at first if you are not used to a stiffer rear end, starting at the softer holes, and moving stiffer as you see fit.
19mm rear sway is awesome. The steering is quicker and feels a little more precise.
Oh also if you get the pulley, get a Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop. God forbid you SC belt snaps, it'll prevent any serious damage. They're only $20.
Oh also if you get the pulley, get a Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop. God forbid you SC belt snaps, it'll prevent any serious damage. They're only $20.
For the suspension I agree with everyone that a larger rear sway bar is a good idea. The larger rear sway bar will generate more oversteer (rear end swinging around as opposed to understeer when the front end pushes through turns). The Minis tend to understeer so the idea for better handling is to reduce the understeer. The three easiest ways to reduce understeer is larger rear sway bar, additional negative camber in the front, and better (stickier) tires.
I feel that the best way to reduce the understeer is with front camber plates, either fixed ($180) or adjustable ($490). The camber plates will allow about -2 degrees camber in the front. I would combine the camber plates with a 19mm rear sway bar ($220). Also, when your tires wear out get better tires.
As people have stated the rear bar is the best bang for the buck. I just believe that camber plates are important and work great with a larger rear bar. The reason I talk about the camber plates is because you should select the size of the rear bar based on wherther or not you are going to add camber plates. If you do not add camber plates to the front than you can use a larger rear bar (such as 22mm) to help compensate.
Of course, there are many stiffer/shorter springs available for the Mini that also improve the handling and looks. The first mod I made to my first MINI was shorter springs.
Finally, a good alignment, to your specs, to take advantage of the suspension changes.
I feel that the best way to reduce the understeer is with front camber plates, either fixed ($180) or adjustable ($490). The camber plates will allow about -2 degrees camber in the front. I would combine the camber plates with a 19mm rear sway bar ($220). Also, when your tires wear out get better tires.
As people have stated the rear bar is the best bang for the buck. I just believe that camber plates are important and work great with a larger rear bar. The reason I talk about the camber plates is because you should select the size of the rear bar based on wherther or not you are going to add camber plates. If you do not add camber plates to the front than you can use a larger rear bar (such as 22mm) to help compensate.
Of course, there are many stiffer/shorter springs available for the Mini that also improve the handling and looks. The first mod I made to my first MINI was shorter springs.
Finally, a good alignment, to your specs, to take advantage of the suspension changes.
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