I am looking at getting an LSD installed. The Question is which one?

I have heard great things for both the OS Giken and Cusco ones, but which one is best?

If you have used either or both, please share your experience as far as driving response, noise and any issues.

Also... is it possible to remove the gearbox without removing the whole motor? Is it a PITA or relitivly straight forward? I used to drive a Corolla GTi and did the clutch in that once by myself on a lift and it took about 24hours, if I had to do it again I think I could do it in 8 (time wasted working out what had to be removed, finding tools, working around a welded exhaust that was in the way, seized bolts etc).

I will be changing the clutch and flywheel to the OS Giken at the same time, so if it's too much drama to DIY and save $1000 labor, I'll pay it and get it all done at the same time.

Thanks for your input.

 

I have been a fan of Torsen type for street use. Both of these are clutch packs, which means you will need to be very good at pulling them out and rebuilding them all the time. The two you mention seem to be race parts, not street. What does the OEM LSD look like?

 

Not sure if you would need to pull them out all the time... otherwise I think they would be regarded as a POS.

From what I have heard the OEM one is ok, but if I'm going to all the work of changing it out I want better than ok.

As I see it race parts are made to take a beating and if they can handle that, they can handle everyday driving.

Unless it makes it harder to drive on the street, why not?

 

OS Giken

 

Clutch pack type LSD's wear out quite quickly reverting to an open diff. This is NOT a reflection that they are a POS. Hardly so. It is that to force it around a corner, it is slipping the clutches.

Please don't confuse trade-offs for race with unsuitability for street use. Suggesting race parts are tougher and therefor suitable for the street will quickly lead you to disappointment. Race parts are designed to solve different engineering problems than street parts. Many are very fragile as weight is often a major consideration.

I can't tell you how many folkes with Salsbury Posi's don't even know they just have an open diff. I am sure the newer ones are better thatn they used to be, but they inherently will have this feature. This is why I favor the Quaff Torsen that uses gear cut angles to drive the wheel with the most traction. It does not have clutches to wear.

The third technology is the electronic controled viscus diffs in some cars. Not a bolt in as it requires sensors and an ECU. We are not even mentioning lockers as they are race only and dangerous on the street.

A LSD will change the understeer/oversteer balance of the car. Each type differently, and more exaggerated under power. Neither good nor bad. Different. They can also effect braking, but you never break in a corner anyway, right?

 

OS Giken. If you take care of plate types they last forever. You have to change the oil and use the additive for the plates. Funny how long the plate type has lasted in my 70 chevy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I get what you are saying and thank you for your input. What sort of time frame are you suggesting it takes for the plates to wear out?

Does anyone on NAM have either of these LSD's fitted for more than a year? I realize they haven't been available for the MINI for that long, but maybe you have experienced it in another FWD car. I guess you would want it to last at least 3 clutches, is that wishfull thinking?

Just want to get the facts before I pull the trigger.

 

PM Ian from Maitland here on NAM. He has the OS setup on his car mostly used on the track. There are a few who have the cusco. Both setups are very good.

 

We've sold clutch type diff's for both the Gen 1 and Gen 2's MINIs and have NEVER had one require a rebuild due to worn clutch plates. This dates back to 2002!

Ken

 

Thanks Ken.

So let me get this straight... If the plates wear out, it turns into an open type (standard) diff? I wouldn't mind if this happens, cause you could wait till the clutch wears out to fix it. But if it locks up or goes bang that would be a bit crap.

 

Thanks Man. I'll send him a PM.

Anyone changed there own transmission fluid on the R56 6 speed? is it a PITA?

 

Or not... can't PM him.

 

Right, just like the clutch in the gearbox, if you 'should' wear out the clutch discs, it will slip - ie. you slowly lose limited slip until it eventually behaves like an open diff. No fireworks -

 

Nothing difficult - I've seen worse.

Just remember to remove the fill plug BEFORE you drain the oil - you don't want to be stuck with a dry gearbox in case you have problems with the fill plug...

 

+1. I'd get an OS Giken myself if I were going to go aftermarket. I think you'd be more than satisfied with either though, both are excellent makes.

BTW, Good to see you back from the dead J.H., I mean, Graham Hill!

 

Cheers Guys

 

And you think your old Dyna/Salisbury clutches are still good? He he, he. Ken says the new ones hold up a lot better. That would be great. I have an automatic so I am probably SOL anyway. It could use it.

What is the current wisdom on additives? In the old Salisbury we used Castrol EP-90 with Amzoil LSD modifier to keep it from chattering. I think GM made a modifier as well.

 

Giken (which we offer) does not recommend the use of any friction modifiers.

k

 

I see how the various new methods or driving the clutches only when there is torque allows them to release on slow corners or under breaking but without the impact from the old lockers. Boy, they were a good way to put a car in the ditch! Quite an advance from the old always-engaged kind we used to have. I also saw reference to a third brand, Schnitzer, but no information or source.

 

Anyone have any experience with them in the snow?

 

or any kind of uphill slippery starts?

 

LSD can be tricky in snow and ice. In the straight, big help. In a corner, they can be tricky as if they are too stiff, they can force a wheel to slip just easing around a corner. Another reason I prefer Torsen for street use. Let the vendors of these units answer how much force they think the unit should be set at for street use. They are configurable and I am sure know more about how much spring to put in than I.

 

Torsen types were made for street use as they perform better when going from wheel lock to wheel lock.....no slipping of the plates during the rush hour commute. And the Quaife has been shown to be about as bullet-proof as you can get.

 

Hey man how often do you have to change the oil on the oz giken diff??

 

i have the oz giken for almost 2 years and had no problem.
Its a little bit expensive but it worths the money.

Go for it!!!!