Just saying injectors can and do drip raw fuel into the cylindar...Just as Jan said!! If it happen with the motor running or not...it is bad!! If a particular brand or make of injector is predisposed to this issue...why not stay away...and get a different brand/model? As a seller, the vendor stated he had isseues....and unhappy custmers cost $$$, so the vendor stopped selling a product that had issues!! Good for him. That is a sign of a good vendor.
Just because it is possible to run an item using adaptors does not mean you should!!
Also some of the adaptors are to allow a low impedance injector run in a high impedance install or vise versa...a buddy that does toyoda tuneing filled me in...if the adaptor goes bad... BANG!! Not good. Why take the risk.

 

Sorry and apologize in advance to those that may take offense to my posting in such a way of appearing not to understand your comments? The adapter or injector plug connection are the same as stock unit only some configure the adaptation with extension wires while other use through their design none. A failure although not impossible is highly unlikely from an electrical engineering view. Even corroded terminal ends would still allow for the ECU impulse to reach the injector. I think some would be better finding the fault of mentioned problems in another direction other than the injector connections? FORD has been useing injector adapters for years and one can find the FORD part number on the net as well as contacting a local dealerships parts department. I believe BOSCH has number as well but I have not been able to confirm that?

I must say that this has been an interesting thread for me. I will admit after starting to read I took a look at my injector harness to see if they were intact and clean.

 

the problem with the adapters is not so much the resistance they add, but the height they add to the connector and the extra length of wire. The taller connector and extra wire are just begging to rub on either the intercooler, or the mounting tabs and bosses. If the wire rubs through and shorts to ground the injector will spray full blast as long as the key is on, once your car stalls out and you sit there cranking it trying to re-start all the fuel pouring out of the affected injector will wash the cylinder walls clean of oil. You can imagine the rest after that, not pretty.

If you get lucky and it rubs through on the positive side then you will probably just blow a fuse and get stranded wherever you happen to be.

so if you don't think Jan knows what he is talking about, go ahead and take your chances.

 

Glad a couple people in this thread are getting it...

Do you have any(or can you get) pictures of the injectors?

I have a guy who does this stuff 24/7 and knows more than everyone combined in this thread...he would like to see pics to compare them to some that were in a MINI race car that he worked on.

You can email them if you want... partsman109@yahoo.com

 

I dont think Jan knows what he is talking about. There I said it.

The argument isnt that the needle inside an injector can stick or leak or whatever, the argument that JAN made was that somehow bad connectors were the root cause of an injector staying open. I am going to say it on last time. By the design of the fuel injection system (IT IS SWITCHED) a bad connector will not cause an injector to stay open. A bad connector is far more likely to damage your ECU.

Simply picking up a book and doing some of your own research can help so much.

 

100% correct

 

its not a "bad connector" that causes the inj. to stay on. Its the result of the connector causing the wiring to chafe on the intercooler and cause a short to ground at the injector that makes it stay open.

 

It is a full factory built jcw, somehow it is missing the 380... i bought this one used but i dont know why somebody would change it...

 

So, you guys think maybe this is my problem. 15% s/c pulley, 2% lightened crank pulley, DT BPV, CAI, Ireland Engineering catback. The car was sluggish on take off until I installed the Sprint Booster. The car runs decent now, but when running full throttle at high RPMs, it seems to get hesitant like it's starving for fuel. I'm wondering if larger injectors are in store.

 

If someone just dropped the standard S injectors in a "full" jcw...(post 2005), it would run pretty bad, since the software was setup for 380 injectors. JCW parts were avalable without the "full" package...I would peek under the IC and look at the injectors...make sure they don't have blue stripes.

 

PM grayraven...or checkout the fixes he recently did with his SC swap...he found a few unusual things and has a similar number of mods....IMO with a 17, it will pull much harder at higher rpm's....mine did after the JCW's...but a tune would be recommended in the future...what's the boost doing... You sc might be getting a bit tired too....

 

Here's a bit of trivia for you, did you know that the fuel injector wiring stays live for about 5mins after you shut the car off? I have found this out with something I did. So once you turn your car off, the injectors still see 12v for about 5mins.

 

I'll get in touch with him. Boost is usually 15psi when getting on it, but can climb to 17 when opening her up. That whole tired s/c thing scares me!!! Thevcar has 54k miles, but with the Florida heat in the Summer time, maybe the oil is drying up. Thank goodness I'm not hearing any noises from the s/c yet (knock on wood). As far as a tune, I have RMW's remote tuning tool, I just need to get it tuned. The one dyno shop around here wants wayyyyy too much money for dyno time. There is a shop down in Pensacola that specializes in muscle cars, but said they could help me out. I'll see what they can do and that way I can set up a time to see if Jan and them can work some magic.

 

Yup. That's a BMW trait that apparently is not common with other manufacturers. I learned this when troubleshooting an Aquamist controller for a meth injection kit.

Also, the fuel rail does indeed hold pressure after ignition is off, but not for ever. Wait a day and you don't need to depressurize the rail to disconnect the fuel line. Incidentally, I don't do that: I just hold a rag around the collar connector to the rail and let the money shot rip. I do lose a drop or two of fuel onto the intake manifold, but that evaporates well before we re-start the car.

I'm not scared by aftermarket connectors, especially the pig tails. I recognize the above mentioned risk of wire chafing, but if you install them properly and carefully, it won't happen. Just be careful, and you won't end up with a car-b-cue.

I also avoid the re-drilled injectors, although I know that there are those that have used them without problem. My injector guru (who has more experience than God Almighty himself ) has tested drilled injectors which do not atomize properly--some have literally dribbled onto the valve stem.

 

Thanks Erik
There seems to be a few who don't understand that this whole thing about injector connections was about the height and a rubbing problem. Like you stated it's all about the installation.
Thanks for clearing up a few things.

 

Anyway, back to the original question. I have Jan's 450cc injectors to allow for the possibiltiy of changing out the head & headers at some point. If you are done with your mods, then 380's would be more than fine, but I also highly recommend a tune!!

 

That was the basic point of the whole thread......If the connector is JUST a pigtail...and it fits well....then it should be fine. Some injectors use an impedance matching connector/adapter....that can fail. I have not seen them on a MINI....but never say never....if it can be made to work...someone will try!!
Locally a few cars with re-drilled injectors have been installed, then later removed.........just be sure your vendor will give you service after the sale!!
IMO our vendors sell good products, and give good honest advise....I know of only one that sells re-drilled/resized injectors under their own brand (and openly says so)....and a few dealers sell then on behalf of that said dealer ....They have a good reputation, and a higher price than the typical internet re-built units...(and a higher price than some NEW UN-DRILLED UNITS),like your guy said...might be best to avoid them for the $$ and get factory made injectors since they are available.

 

There is a 440 out there which connects right up without any adaptors

 

thanks Francis...........nice to see a MINI TECH on the boards