Drivetrain Realistic gains from common mods?
Realistic gains from common mods?
OK, being a noob to the MCS and this forum, I'm suffering from information overload. I've been reading up on performance mods for my '05 MCS (R53) and trying to figure out a budget for my mods. I'm shooting for the most bang for my buck rather than aesthetics. So what are the realistic gains I can expect from the common mods?
I see that there are a lot of folks with exhaust mods. What kind of hp gains do those offer? In my experience with other cars, most exhaust mods offer small gains but have big price tags. So the bang for the buck isn't there.
I'm considering a 15% pulley, CAI and an ECU/dyno tune. Should I throw on a lightweight crank pulley too? Is it worth it? What about colder plugs? Injectors?
How hard are these items to install? I read the pulley install instructions, and I'll be paying someone to install the pulley. So should I go ahead and have them do the whole thing?
I'm not shooting for a total race car. My MCS is my daily driver. I just want to pump up the power in it for fun's sake. I have a race car tucked away. I don't need my MCS to be crazy fast, just scoot a bit better.
Thanks in advance,
Tom
I see that there are a lot of folks with exhaust mods. What kind of hp gains do those offer? In my experience with other cars, most exhaust mods offer small gains but have big price tags. So the bang for the buck isn't there.
I'm considering a 15% pulley, CAI and an ECU/dyno tune. Should I throw on a lightweight crank pulley too? Is it worth it? What about colder plugs? Injectors?
How hard are these items to install? I read the pulley install instructions, and I'll be paying someone to install the pulley. So should I go ahead and have them do the whole thing?
I'm not shooting for a total race car. My MCS is my daily driver. I just want to pump up the power in it for fun's sake. I have a race car tucked away. I don't need my MCS to be crazy fast, just scoot a bit better.
Thanks in advance,
Tom
I don't really know the average hp gain #s for specific mods, but a pulley, cat-back, an intake should be a good starting point for what your looking for. I would guess somewhere in the area of 180-190hp
If you want to go a cheaper route for the exhaust you could do a one-ball exhaust modification. This involves cutting out one of the mufflers and only running one. Alot of people on here have done this and recommend it.
I don't know about the aluminum lightened crank pulleys. Their not balanced like a stock harmonic balancer and in my opinion might lead to problems.
If you want to go a cheaper route for the exhaust you could do a one-ball exhaust modification. This involves cutting out one of the mufflers and only running one. Alot of people on here have done this and recommend it.
I don't know about the aluminum lightened crank pulleys. Their not balanced like a stock harmonic balancer and in my opinion might lead to problems.
i may not be 100% right but i am sure this is close in real HP gains
15% pulley 20 hp gain best bang for the dollar by far
cold air intake 3 to 6 hp cheap mod and easy to do
exhaust 6 to 8 hp expensive for what you get .
custom ecu tune i am not sure on , good guess is 10 to 15 hp with the
above mods.
colder plugs are a must when doing the pulley , 380cc injectors would be recommended as well . do not waste time with a crank pulley.
15% pulley 20 hp gain best bang for the dollar by far
cold air intake 3 to 6 hp cheap mod and easy to do
exhaust 6 to 8 hp expensive for what you get .
custom ecu tune i am not sure on , good guess is 10 to 15 hp with the
above mods.
colder plugs are a must when doing the pulley , 380cc injectors would be recommended as well . do not waste time with a crank pulley.
i may not be 100% right but i am sure this is close in real HP gains
15% pulley 20 hp gain best bang for the dollar by far
cold air intake 3 to 6 hp cheap mod and easy to do
exhaust 6 to 8 hp expensive for what you get .
custom ecu tune i am not sure on , good guess is 10 to 15 hp with the
above mods.
colder plugs are a must when doing the pulley , 380cc injectors would be recommended as well . do not waste time with a crank pulley.
15% pulley 20 hp gain best bang for the dollar by far
cold air intake 3 to 6 hp cheap mod and easy to do
exhaust 6 to 8 hp expensive for what you get .
custom ecu tune i am not sure on , good guess is 10 to 15 hp with the
above mods.
colder plugs are a must when doing the pulley , 380cc injectors would be recommended as well . do not waste time with a crank pulley.
Thanks guys. I appreciate the sound advice and the experience.
I think I'll go with the CAI, 15% pulley, colder plugs and a tune. I'm gonna skip the exhaust, crank pulley, and the rest.
I'm on the fence about the injectors. They're expensive. Do I really need them with only a 15% pulley? Wouldn't I need a better fuel pump as well?
Also with the 15% pulley, do I need a shorter belt than stock? Each vendor recommends different. What's the real scoop?
I think I'll go with the CAI, 15% pulley, colder plugs and a tune. I'm gonna skip the exhaust, crank pulley, and the rest.
I'm on the fence about the injectors. They're expensive. Do I really need them with only a 15% pulley? Wouldn't I need a better fuel pump as well?
Also with the 15% pulley, do I need a shorter belt than stock? Each vendor recommends different. What's the real scoop?
if you are going to skip the exhaust you should consider the one ball exhaust, it could give you a little gain and a good sound along with the pulley and intake... you do need a shorter belt, alta has a table with the number of belt for each pulley they sell... And i dont think you NEED larger injector with a 15 pulley, but with a tune the 380s are going to be easier to tuned...
Thanks guys. I appreciate the sound advice and the experience.
I think I'll go with the CAI, 15% pulley, colder plugs and a tune. I'm gonna skip the exhaust, crank pulley, and the rest.
I'm on the fence about the injectors. They're expensive. Do I really need them with only a 15% pulley? Wouldn't I need a better fuel pump as well?
Also with the 15% pulley, do I need a shorter belt than stock? Each vendor recommends different. What's the real scoop?
I think I'll go with the CAI, 15% pulley, colder plugs and a tune. I'm gonna skip the exhaust, crank pulley, and the rest.
I'm on the fence about the injectors. They're expensive. Do I really need them with only a 15% pulley? Wouldn't I need a better fuel pump as well?
Also with the 15% pulley, do I need a shorter belt than stock? Each vendor recommends different. What's the real scoop?
I got my JCW's new for $299,a screaming deal (they run about $125 each new normally, or about $300 lightly used for 4 most of the time). I got mine looking at the future and out of an abundance of caution.
Most forced induction motors like to run rich, especially for a long life by all accounts, I was concerned that going beyond a 15% could result in a lean condition at higher rpms. IMO with a 15%, you should be fine.
I am currently running the JCW injectors without a tune...it is within the 20% fuel trim the computer can adjust for....and it feels like my car runs better. A tad rich st some rpm's.
MINI switched to the 380's when they came out for the JCW 210 HP kit, the additional part that made it a 210 was the bigger injectors, and a minor software upgrade. This tells me that the Stock injectors might have been be a bit stressed, so I decided to get them.
I can say that my car does run better on E-10 (the current 90% petroleum, 10% ethanol blend that is the defacto standard) than it did before. In my case, my car ran great on straight gas, but would hesitate a bit on some gas stations blends. With the 380's....I can buy anybody's 93, and the car runs great!
Depending on what build date you have, you more than likely have a lighter weight damper than the old one...many improvements came out in 05...that was one of them.
Jan...the tuner from RMW, says he has seem many of the lightweight undampend crank pulleys fail. I would stay away.
WayMotorWorks does offer a standard size ATI, and an Overdrive (bigger by I think 2% just like the lightweight ones) ATI superdamper crank pulley....if you ever need one, they are actually cheaper than stock...and better.
I strongly recommend you get a Tennsioner stop too...so if the belt on the SC breaks, it will save you some serious $$.
Detroit Tuned makes a good one, widely available, for about $20-25. Alta makes one too...but it rattles like a SOB for some people.
The stock belt, if new will work on a 15%, but most say it WILL start to slip as it ages...so it is usually a good idea to get a new, shorter belt....MINI uses euro sized belts (1388 MM conti-tech belt is standard I think...about a "547" is the US sizing system?)...and the sizes do not translate over perfectly...I use the 6 rib "535" belt with a 17%...fits fine...think it is the same for the 15% by most recommendations too!!
If you want to get a kit...look at WayMotorWorks....
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-pulley-package.html
$199, for a pulley, cooler plugs, belt, and stop. I've dealt with them several times....they also offer very good advise on upgrade parts, what works, does not, etc....pretty unbiased IMO....He also races too!!
If you do you pulley yourself....most of the better places that sell pulleys will loan you a pulley puller to get the stock pulley off....a generic one will not work.
Hope this info helps!!
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Big thanks Zippy! That's good info.
I was going to do the pulley myself, but after I read the directions I don't want to. I changed the pulley on my Crossfire SRT-6, but that was about a 15 minute job. Literally three bolts and it slides right off. Standard torx socket to loosen the tensioner to get the belt off. It couldn't be easier. But on the Mini, not so much.
I'm leaning real heavily towards the Alta classic 15% pulley. They're on sale right now for $75. You just can't beat that.
I was going to do the pulley myself, but after I read the directions I don't want to. I changed the pulley on my Crossfire SRT-6, but that was about a 15 minute job. Literally three bolts and it slides right off. Standard torx socket to loosen the tensioner to get the belt off. It couldn't be easier. But on the Mini, not so much.
I'm leaning real heavily towards the Alta classic 15% pulley. They're on sale right now for $75. You just can't beat that.
Big thanks Zippy! That's good info.
I was going to do the pulley myself, but after I read the directions I don't want to. I changed the pulley on my Crossfire SRT-6, but that was about a 15 minute job. Literally three bolts and it slides right off. Standard torx socket to loosen the tensioner to get the belt off. It couldn't be easier. But on the Mini, not so much.
I'm leaning real heavily towards the Alta classic 15% pulley. They're on sale right now for $75. You just can't beat that.
I was going to do the pulley myself, but after I read the directions I don't want to. I changed the pulley on my Crossfire SRT-6, but that was about a 15 minute job. Literally three bolts and it slides right off. Standard torx socket to loosen the tensioner to get the belt off. It couldn't be easier. But on the Mini, not so much.
I'm leaning real heavily towards the Alta classic 15% pulley. They're on sale right now for $75. You just can't beat that.
Many people have pulleys installed at pulley parties... Where they can be done almost production line style!! Big thing is that someone knows what to do when something bad happens!
I'd check with the "local" mini club for a trusted local, mini centric shop. In a pinch a BMW shop is ok, but not ideal...there are lots of gotcha's that the mini specalists can fix/catch early, easily making it worthwhile to develop a relationship. Certain bushings, seals, all seem to wear at similar miles in most mini's, and they can sometimes fix something you did not know was worn, and make you say "wow".
Good to see the old Alta pulley is back, the ver2, like many Alta things lately has left people wondering....Craven, Helix, and WMW all make good pulleys...the helix one is neat....the center is universal...so once installed, switching to a 17% is easy...and cheaper!!
Big thanks Zippy! That's good info.
I was going to do the pulley myself, but after I read the directions I don't want to. I changed the pulley on my Crossfire SRT-6, but that was about a 15 minute job. Literally three bolts and it slides right off. Standard torx socket to loosen the tensioner to get the belt off. It couldn't be easier. But on the Mini, not so much.
I'm leaning real heavily towards the Alta classic 15% pulley. They're on sale right now for $75. You just can't beat that.
I was going to do the pulley myself, but after I read the directions I don't want to. I changed the pulley on my Crossfire SRT-6, but that was about a 15 minute job. Literally three bolts and it slides right off. Standard torx socket to loosen the tensioner to get the belt off. It couldn't be easier. But on the Mini, not so much.
I'm leaning real heavily towards the Alta classic 15% pulley. They're on sale right now for $75. You just can't beat that.
Wow. $75 for a pulley. Now that's a fire sale. I would get their "classic" over the V2. It's a better design. We'd be happy to install it for you if you want to take a short road trip to Philly. It's a bit of a haul from you, but we've got experience with these MINI things
.
Thanks! I was thinking of making a trip to Philly when the weather clears - in a month or two. I think I will score that Alta classic and have you guys install it, a CAI and a tune. I'll give you a call when I'm ready to setup an appointment.
If you are going to Helix
The one thing I would recommend that you did not note would be a short shifter. And since you are considering going to Helix, they have the best deal on one anyway, 45.00. I have done all the mods you noted, and more, and the shifter is one thing that most who drive my car notice right away.
i run the 15% pulley with stockinjectors (for now) i got the smaller belt because the other belt i got started to slip. I recommend the intake especially if u can pick up a used one. My exhaust was expensive but honestly i cant imagine not having that sound.
i just now after like 5 months got new colder plugs and it is much smoother and cleaner and better mpg, not as rich as i was running before (which was to rich) Depending on the year u might consider a detroit tuned by pass valve, i got one and it is definatly worth it especially if ur stock one is worn out. Depending on how many miles u have rear lower control arm bushings might need to be replaced.
if your going to get a tune then definately get new injectors. if u dont think u will get the tune keep ur stockers.
And a short shifter is an absolute must, i hav a b&m and absolutely love the thing, it was 35 bucks on ebay. I installed everything my self and think that everything is definately doable for anyone with some ramps and a socket set............. even the pulley, but add a jack to the tool list
i just now after like 5 months got new colder plugs and it is much smoother and cleaner and better mpg, not as rich as i was running before (which was to rich) Depending on the year u might consider a detroit tuned by pass valve, i got one and it is definatly worth it especially if ur stock one is worn out. Depending on how many miles u have rear lower control arm bushings might need to be replaced.
if your going to get a tune then definately get new injectors. if u dont think u will get the tune keep ur stockers.
And a short shifter is an absolute must, i hav a b&m and absolutely love the thing, it was 35 bucks on ebay. I installed everything my self and think that everything is definately doable for anyone with some ramps and a socket set............. even the pulley, but add a jack to the tool list
Again, thanks for the input guys.
I'm definitely going with a 15% pulley, a CAI, tune, new belt, tensioner stop, and colder plugs.
I'm still up in the air about the injectors. They're just so darn expensive. I'm hoping to find a set used, but they get snatched up pretty quick.
I'm also considering a better rear sway bar. That will help with the understeer, correct?
What's the advantage of the upgraded bypass valve? What's it do for you?
I'm definitely going with a 15% pulley, a CAI, tune, new belt, tensioner stop, and colder plugs.
I'm still up in the air about the injectors. They're just so darn expensive. I'm hoping to find a set used, but they get snatched up pretty quick.
I'm also considering a better rear sway bar. That will help with the understeer, correct?
What's the advantage of the upgraded bypass valve? What's it do for you?
Your 05' already has an improved BPV...just like the new ones being sold. The DT valve is good, but can make the car harder to drive smooth. Depends on your driving style.
The rear swaybar, everybody tells me, is a must. I've been riding the fence a bit, not wanting to make my car twitchy...but i'll most likely do one this summer sometime. It seems to be one of the top "bang for the buck" mods, just like the pulley, and CAI.
The rear swaybar, everybody tells me, is a must. I've been riding the fence a bit, not wanting to make my car twitchy...but i'll most likely do one this summer sometime. It seems to be one of the top "bang for the buck" mods, just like the pulley, and CAI.
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