Hi,

I have a 2006 JCW with alta inlet hose and replacement filter, grs intercooler, 17% pulley and obx headers. I just installed the RMW street cam. Apparently my Mini doesnt have the 380s. My question is: should I get the 380's or should I get the 440's? Which one will be better now and in the long run.

Any response will be gladly appreaciated.

Thanks,

ice91

 

Will the fit directly or would I have to modify?

 

380's with the street cam will be fine. If your planning a head or track the car I'd get the 440's and have Jan tune your car. You'll run lean at high RPM with the 380's if you track the car.
Give Jan a call.

 

If your thinking of more mods might as well get the 440s now

 

Pretty surprising you have a "jcw", but no injectors...they were part of thr jcw 210 kit that was standard 2005+. Do you just have the body kit, and maybe the brake kit? I guess it might be common...just tough to call it a Jcw IMO without the JCW engine kit.
If your injectors have a blue stripe when you look at them..they are the 380's.
On topic...if you are going to get bigger injectors, and a tune, I would go stright to the Boosh 550's...they also have the correct double cone spray pattern as the oem, which is critical IMO, and are Not redrilled units. I have read that the 550's actually tune better, and are the same price, with no idle problems.
I am running the. 380's...no tune...they run fine..will run better in a few months after the tune.

 

be careful what connectors they are selling you for your injectors.... there have been many engines "FILLED" with gas because of them shorting and could potentially damage the engine. Apparently they haven't figured this out yet. We sell the PROPER connectors and yes they cost more. Our 450cc and 550cc injectors are NOT redrilled injectors but factory injectors from Siemens and Bosch. They have been running in the race cars around the country with no issues.

 

There seems to be many companys selling redrilled, or even laser drilled units...I would only get new or lightly used injectors that have the proper spray pattern...I got the JCW because they fit well with my longterm plans, and could be run without a tune.
Even properly flow-matched re-drilled units don't have proper spray patters..good quality injectors cost some $$$. But I know of a few folks that bought re-drilled units from "reputible" selers, only to have problems, and remove them later.

 

I tried some re-drilled Bosch style in the past, they were hit and miss so I only sell ones that rea factory injectors. Less chance for problems

 

My advice is get MINI JCW 380's you can find them for sale in the market place or at your dealer if you want to sell your first born. You can run 380's without any issue and without a tune. You can also also get a tune if you want get more out of your car with them from Jan / RMW. He has the correct scalling for them and you car will run better with his tune than a JCW flash/update.

Next when you get a BVH and Cam (You will in the end ) then get 440's from Jan / RMW and have him tune your car again. You will be more than happy. Trust me know I have already been down this path with my 05 MCS.
See below and I have a Meth kit going in in 2 weeks. The only other thing you need to think about is having a good shop do your work. In the NorthEast we have Helix and I trust them with my car for all my modding needs / wants.

 

Hello...I do not want to appear that I am questioning some of your post. Perhaps I am reading to much into it. I am by trade an electrical engineer and although I make my living in non automotive area I work very close to a very well established Automotive electrical shop with some of my own personal car projects. After reading your post I found it puzzling about the validity of a simple plastic adapter with 2 wires causing the concerns you are mentioning. I am sure there is much more than those mere adapters that have been used for years by after market companies as well as FORD causing problems? Would you be kind enough to explain a little more about how those simple adapter could cause the problem,s you are suggesting?

 

Go with the 380cc anything larger would be over kill at the moment.

Without a proper tune to scale back larger injectors you will have issues with over fuelling which will be detrimental to performance.

Also be carefull what vendors you purchase your larger injectors from as some even go to the trouble of filing off the part numbers so you can't even be sure what injectors you are getting

 

What RMW is saying makes no sense. The adapters themselves couldnt cause the injectors to stay on as he is suggesting, they need to be seeing a constant current for that to happen. The injectors are probably hooked up with a switched positive and a ground to the ECU. The only way for them to short with only two wires is for the ECU to open the ground up.

So Allen, you are right, there is more to it then just the connectors.

Also, I find it hard to believe large injectors tune better, at least lightly modded engines. Running injectors too large results in very poor resolution at idle. There is a reason that many sport bikes run staged injectors, so that is something to keep in mind. Maybe I should make an EFI 101 post...

 

Ummm I think you guys are forgetting the injectors make connections at both ends. The wired end and other end into the fuel rail. With the wrong fitment O-rings ect of inferior injectors that is what causes the issue. Not just the plastic wired connection end. Oh and some of the "other" connectors are too long / big and do not fit corretly under the IC. The IC rubs the wires and that causes grounding issues on the wired end.

Just my $.02 foir what its worth.

 

If you get the wrong connectors they can short out and cause the injector to fill the cyl to fill with gas. You have to have the shorter connectors that wont have contact with the intercooler. Trust me I've seen a wire short out.
Person dropped one cyl and almost lost the motor.

 

Ummmmm......guys read his OP. He states he has the JCW, that mod comes with the 380's.

 

If it is a full JCW with the engine package...he stated he was lacking the 380's... So it is unlikey he has the Full JCW 210 package, with the upgraded injectors, SC, and head...likely he has the body kit...maybe a brake kit or something...pretty common for people to call it a JCW even though it is not a Full jcw package....buyer be ware if you are buying a used car I guess!!

 

Some of the imported connectors don't have the mini connector...and as stated are longer...and then you an an adaptor to the harnness...and try to make it fit under the IC...tight fit. If the wires rub, or one of the adaptors fail, get loose, dirty...you have an issue that can be hard to trouble shoot....if your motor is not dammaged. There are safer ways to save $100 bucks IMO.
New, OEM Seimens JCW injectors do pop up for sale at mini shops/vendors...I got mine, factory sealed, boxed from Minspeed before they closed up shop for $299. They work like a dream.
They fit properly, looke OEM ( they are), and will not screem " tuner" or hotrodded mini to a future buyer if I leave them in!! Oem tested and approved goodness...meet my needs....I think even with a tune, I'll be happy with the 190-200 hp that cars with the jcw injectors can produce before they are overly stressed and need to be upgradded.

 

I run M7 and have had no problems even if I wash the engine at a car wash.

 

Hello again all. This has really spiked my curiosity so I looked at several I have in the garage. Various brand and type fuel injectors and adapters. None seem to have a problem in making more than adequate connections to facilitate continuity for the operating ohms required even under adverse conditions such as moisture or dirt. I am more prone to believe it is an installation error rather than an adapter fault.
Can RMW supply a picture of the adapters and injectors they are referring to causing possible continuity problems with. Maybe some of us that deal in electronics can help to resolve that question about them.

 

M7's are redrilled oem 340' cc injectors...that is why they buy you cores...and advertise they buy them outright. They apparently flowmatch the redrrilled injectors to ensure correct flow.....but spray pattern is always questionable with a redrilled injector.
I have no experance with the m7 injectors...but they are usually not considered a problem brand like Internet ones from injdepot, etc.

 

There was more wrong with this then I originally realized. Say you have the power to the car off, how is a "stuck" injector going to fill a cylinder when the fuel pump is off and the injectors arent getting power anyway.

Say the car is in the on position but not running, even if injectors did ground to the fuel rail (never seen one that does) the valve to that cylinder would have to be open in order for it to flood.

If the car is running, well the chances of that happening are as likely as shark growing legs walking 100 miles inland, up four flights of stairs and biting my head off.

EFI 101 post in the next two weeks...

 

Injectors get "leaky" and drip gas from a pressured rail all the time...it is a common problem on many makes and models...symptoms include a rumbly start, and sometimes a misfire code on start. It usually will not be a huge issue...but can cause issues...seen it on nissians maximas, honda's, etc. Remember, the rail stays preasureized...that is why you must relieve the preasure on the rail before removing an injector!!

 

my friend got a set of these proper 440 injectors, but the part numbers are all filled off... how does the customer go about verifying that these are in fact OE 440cc?

 

The color of the injector usually indicates the size...for quick identificatin.
If the number is filed off...it means that if it ever goes bad, it will likely no be acceptable for a core return for rebuild. Are you sure they are new, and not re-sized units.... ie, redrilled?

 

What does that have to do with bad connectors though?