Drivetrain R56 Noisemaker Revealed!
#78
#79
Here is what I did.....
First remove the plug from the silicone tube (noisemaker delete kit) that you just got. Then remove the noisemaker assembly and piping, parts 10, 13 and 16 as an assembly from the mini. Remove the piping (part 10)and hose clamp (part 12) from noisemaker (part 13) by loosening the hose clamp and removing the piping. On the outside of the piping in a rubber ring, slide this back down the pipe. Slide the new plug into this piping. It will require some effort to push this into the pipe but you want it to fit tight. Make sure you have it seated down slightly past where the rubber ring was on the outside of the piping. Now slide the rubber ring back into its original position which should be just at the edge of the newly installed plug. From here, slide one of the newly supplied hose clamps over the piping and onto the area where the plug is installed. You will feel the plug inside the piping with no problem, it will be very hard from the plug. Now tighten the hose clamp and reassemble the pipe onto the noisemaker and install back onto the car. This will really make more sense when you start the job.
Let me know if you need more info or better instructions.
Mike
First remove the plug from the silicone tube (noisemaker delete kit) that you just got. Then remove the noisemaker assembly and piping, parts 10, 13 and 16 as an assembly from the mini. Remove the piping (part 10)and hose clamp (part 12) from noisemaker (part 13) by loosening the hose clamp and removing the piping. On the outside of the piping in a rubber ring, slide this back down the pipe. Slide the new plug into this piping. It will require some effort to push this into the pipe but you want it to fit tight. Make sure you have it seated down slightly past where the rubber ring was on the outside of the piping. Now slide the rubber ring back into its original position which should be just at the edge of the newly installed plug. From here, slide one of the newly supplied hose clamps over the piping and onto the area where the plug is installed. You will feel the plug inside the piping with no problem, it will be very hard from the plug. Now tighten the hose clamp and reassemble the pipe onto the noisemaker and install back onto the car. This will really make more sense when you start the job.
Let me know if you need more info or better instructions.
Mike
#80
I am very tempted to buy this kit but wonder if I might actually miss the noise after I do this.
#81
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NDK's on sale until 10/8/10
Hi All,
It's Clint from DoS.
We just put our red and blue noisemaker delete kits on sale for $25.00 until Friday 10/8. This is a perfect way to cap the noisemaker at its source.
You can use our instructions or use the parts for the "stealth" version described above (concealing the plug in your factory hoses).
Thanks & have a great weekend.
-Clint
It's Clint from DoS.
We just put our red and blue noisemaker delete kits on sale for $25.00 until Friday 10/8. This is a perfect way to cap the noisemaker at its source.
You can use our instructions or use the parts for the "stealth" version described above (concealing the plug in your factory hoses).
Thanks & have a great weekend.
-Clint
Last edited by Mini'mon; 10-03-2010 at 12:26 AM.
#84
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The end goal is that you want to get the plug to sit right at the end of the y-junction/Y-pipe before the intake manifold while still having things look pretty much factory.
I think that the best way to do this mod is to slightly revise Mike's strategy:
1) Loosen the hose clamp (11) where the noisemaker hose meets the y-junction before the intake manifold (8)
2) Remove the noisemaker hose (10) from the y-junction.
3) Push the plug out of the supplied silicone hose from the NDK kit and insert it into the factory noisemaker hose.
4) Slide both of the supplied hose clamps onto the hose (10).
6) Slide the hose back onto the y-junction hose barb (8).
7) Push on the sides of the hose and locate the plug.
8) Tighten one of the hose clamps onto the hose (10) at the plug location.
9) Tighten the other hose clamp to re-affix the noisemaker hose to the y-junction (8).
-Clint
#85
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-Clint
#87
On a related note, I believe the Samco sport hose kit DOES NOT delete the noisemaker like the NM kit. The Samco kit actually has a replacement hose for part #10 above which makes me believe that it's a replacement hose kit, not a delete kit...am I correct? I was thinking about getting this but seems pointless since it retains the noisemaker.
I was looking at some pics of the kit and it includes a replacement for hose #1, #7, #8, #9, and #10 from the pic above.
I was looking at some pics of the kit and it includes a replacement for hose #1, #7, #8, #9, and #10 from the pic above.
Last edited by chilimini81; 02-26-2011 at 03:06 PM.
#88
On a related note, I believe the Samco sport hose kit DOES NOT delete the noisemaker like the NM kit. The Samco kit actually has a replacement hose for part #10 above which makes me believe that it's a replacement hose kit, not a delete kit...am I correct? I was thinking about getting this but seems pointless since it retains the noisemaker.
I was looking at some pics of the kit and it includes a replacement for hose #1, #7, #8, #9, and #10 from the pic above.
I was looking at some pics of the kit and it includes a replacement for hose #1, #7, #8, #9, and #10 from the pic above.
The hose at the bottom of the picture is the replacement hose for the factory part #10. It is NOT a delete kit for the noisemaker. The kit though is a direct fit and top quality as well. If you have it fitted, you can always tap at the correct point and have the noisemaker deleted.
#89
Everyone probably already knows this, but the 2011 doesn't have the noise maker. I took some tools out to my car today and was planning a quick trip to Home Depot to do this mod, but behold, no noise maker!
On a side note, I also found that the vents in the lower grill go directly to the front brakes... really cool. Add to that the popping sound on decel in sport mode and you've got reasons to love the 2011!
On a side note, I also found that the vents in the lower grill go directly to the front brakes... really cool. Add to that the popping sound on decel in sport mode and you've got reasons to love the 2011!
#90
So would getting just the Noise maker delete be as good as the whole cold side tube? Also is it safe for the car to overboost and will it affect anything?
#93
Everyone probably already knows this, but the 2011 doesn't have the noise maker. I took some tools out to my car today and was planning a quick trip to Home Depot to do this mod, but behold, no noise maker!
On a side note, I also found that the vents in the lower grill go directly to the front brakes... really cool. Add to that the popping sound on decel in sport mode and you've got reasons to love the 2011!
On a side note, I also found that the vents in the lower grill go directly to the front brakes... really cool. Add to that the popping sound on decel in sport mode and you've got reasons to love the 2011!
#94
#95
$1.00 Noisemaker Delete!
This is what I used to plug the hole in the noisemaker opening, 1" PVC cap, it slides in very snug if you put the open end pointed out.
$1 at Home Depot and a decent helping of GOOP Automotive Sealant. Been on for 6 months and I checked it yesterday, its solid as a rock and not going anywhere.
http://www.amazon.com/Charlotte-Pvc-.../dp/B000R9DZ42
This is what I used to plug the hole in the noisemaker opening, 1" PVC cap, it slides in very snug if you put the open end pointed out.
$1 at Home Depot and a decent helping of GOOP Automotive Sealant. Been on for 6 months and I checked it yesterday, its solid as a rock and not going anywhere.
http://www.amazon.com/Charlotte-Pvc-.../dp/B000R9DZ42
Claus
#96
I looked at a buddy's 2011 cooperS it had all the pipping including the noisemaker just like my 2010 has.
I did the delete on my 2010...not a lot of noticable difference. Some, but not a lot. Was it worth it? 30 bucks, sure.
I took apart the DOS noisemaker and shoved the metal plug in the #10 hose at the #12 clamp, put a clamp on it to tighten and seal it. Put everything back together, now it looks stock. Great tip!
NOTE...I tried to do it like Clint said on the #11 clamp side...due to the curve in the hose it was pretty tough getting the hose back on. So I moved it to the noisemaker side of the hose, problem fixed and worked really good. Plus the new clamp is hidden under the filter box.
I did the delete on my 2010...not a lot of noticable difference. Some, but not a lot. Was it worth it? 30 bucks, sure.
I took apart the DOS noisemaker and shoved the metal plug in the #10 hose at the #12 clamp, put a clamp on it to tighten and seal it. Put everything back together, now it looks stock. Great tip!
NOTE...I tried to do it like Clint said on the #11 clamp side...due to the curve in the hose it was pretty tough getting the hose back on. So I moved it to the noisemaker side of the hose, problem fixed and worked really good. Plus the new clamp is hidden under the filter box.
Last edited by slimjimtell; 03-27-2011 at 07:06 AM.
#97
What a POS part, I pulled mine today and shoved a Nike tour golf ball into the hose, tightened the hose clamp around it and voila took her for a spin and I am happy with the less noise in my cabin.
I shoved some old sponge material I found in the garage into the end that went into the fire wall, next mod switch my ride back to stock JCW exhaust
Thx for the help guys
I shoved some old sponge material I found in the garage into the end that went into the fire wall, next mod switch my ride back to stock JCW exhaust
Thx for the help guys
#98
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I looked at a buddy's 2011 cooperS it had all the pipping including the noisemaker just like my 2010 has.
I did the delete on my 2010...not a lot of noticable difference. Some, but not a lot. Was it worth it? 30 bucks, sure.
I took apart the DOS noisemaker and shoved the metal plug in the #10 hose at the #12 clamp, put a clamp on it to tighten and seal it. Put everything back together, now it looks stock. Great tip!
NOTE...I tried to do it like Clint said on the #11 clamp side...due to the curve in the hose it was pretty tough getting the hose back on. So I moved it to the noisemaker side of the hose, problem fixed and worked really good. Plus the new clamp is hidden under the filter box.
I did the delete on my 2010...not a lot of noticable difference. Some, but not a lot. Was it worth it? 30 bucks, sure.
I took apart the DOS noisemaker and shoved the metal plug in the #10 hose at the #12 clamp, put a clamp on it to tighten and seal it. Put everything back together, now it looks stock. Great tip!
NOTE...I tried to do it like Clint said on the #11 clamp side...due to the curve in the hose it was pretty tough getting the hose back on. So I moved it to the noisemaker side of the hose, problem fixed and worked really good. Plus the new clamp is hidden under the filter box.
If all that you're shooting for is noise reduction, the #12 clamp side will do just fine.
-Clint
#100
I just triple checked my 2011, just because I couldn't imagine how my car wouldn't have it and other 2011's would. This includes taking great detailed notes and photos of the y-pipe which allows for pipe 10 in the diagram to connect.
Where the Y pipe apparently is for everyone else, I've got a hard plastic pipe that's straight thru.
My car is a California car which might be why, but I'm telling ya... No noisemaker.
Where the Y pipe apparently is for everyone else, I've got a hard plastic pipe that's straight thru.
My car is a California car which might be why, but I'm telling ya... No noisemaker.