Drivetrain R56 Noisemaker Revealed!
lol... technically no, but your dealer will be your dealer. Like every other case its up to the SA to make the claim. All the stuff i have and i havent gone in for service yet. i change my own oil every 4k so well see what happens. I will have to unflash it and 
I wonder if it would make any difference if the dealer installed it? I know its an easy mod, but maybe there's an advantage to having them do it? Same for the discharge pipe. Just an idea...
Did you need a lift to do the discharge pipe?
Actually I'm looking for the OD. I want to try and find a silicone/EDPM cap that I can slide over the noisemaker outlet from the main pipe and then secure with a hose clamp. If the ID is around 1", maybe the OD is around 1-1/4 or so. I would like to find the actual size so that I can get a plug with a real snug fit, then add the clamp. Thanks.
3rd Gear
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 257
Likes: 4
From: Plano, TX
$1.00 Noisemaker Delete!
This is what I used to plug the hole in the noisemaker opening, 1" PVC cap, it slides in very snug if you put the open end pointed out.
$1 at Home Depot and a decent helping of GOOP Automotive Sealant. Been on for 6 months and I checked it yesterday, its solid as a rock and not going anywhere.
http://www.amazon.com/Charlotte-Pvc-.../dp/B000R9DZ42
This is what I used to plug the hole in the noisemaker opening, 1" PVC cap, it slides in very snug if you put the open end pointed out.
$1 at Home Depot and a decent helping of GOOP Automotive Sealant. Been on for 6 months and I checked it yesterday, its solid as a rock and not going anywhere.
http://www.amazon.com/Charlotte-Pvc-.../dp/B000R9DZ42
While not totally necessary, it's nice knowing you don't have a gaping hole in you're firewall... Getting this cap adds about $2.50 to the fix, making it $3.50 for a quieter and more efficient ride!
Not at all i just stuck my arm under w a 7mm ratchet wrench.
4th Gear
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
From: Connecticut
yes it would be. I did the same thing. The nice part about capping this is keeping debris from getting into the cabin. It's easier to cap a round hole than an oblong hole presented if you actually removed #16.
it looked like it just went under the wiper trim area, it doesnt actually go "in" to the cabin if im not mistaken
4th Gear
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
From: Connecticut
Very good possibility...I am unsure exactly how it's configured and routed. Either way...I think it's a good idea to block it off.
Just looked at it, it just goes into the wiper trim.
Just installed the noisemaker delete from Way. Thanks Way.
I actually looked at the noisemaker pipe from the noisemaker to the inlet pipe and installed the aluminum plug into this pipe. I found that if you take the end loose from the noisemaker, the plug will install into the pipe just before it goes into the noisemaker. There is a rubber abrasion ring on the outside of the pipe which you can slide out of the way to install a hose clamp. Then slide the abrasion ring back as close to the original location as possible. Reinstall the noisemaker so it still looks factory. No open lines and no opening going through the firewall to block. Still looks stock but no noise now. One less thing for the dealership to get upset about.
I actually looked at the noisemaker pipe from the noisemaker to the inlet pipe and installed the aluminum plug into this pipe. I found that if you take the end loose from the noisemaker, the plug will install into the pipe just before it goes into the noisemaker. There is a rubber abrasion ring on the outside of the pipe which you can slide out of the way to install a hose clamp. Then slide the abrasion ring back as close to the original location as possible. Reinstall the noisemaker so it still looks factory. No open lines and no opening going through the firewall to block. Still looks stock but no noise now. One less thing for the dealership to get upset about.
Just installed the noisemaker delete from Way. Thanks Way.
I actually looked at the noisemaker pipe from the noisemaker to the inlet pipe and installed the aluminum plug into this pipe. I found that if you take the end loose from the noisemaker, the plug will install into the pipe just before it goes into the noisemaker. There is a rubber abrasion ring on the outside of the pipe which you can slide out of the way to install a hose clamp. Then slide the abrasion ring back as close to the original location as possible. Reinstall the noisemaker so it still looks factory. No open lines and no opening going through the firewall to block. Still looks stock but no noise now. One less thing for the dealership to get upset about.
I actually looked at the noisemaker pipe from the noisemaker to the inlet pipe and installed the aluminum plug into this pipe. I found that if you take the end loose from the noisemaker, the plug will install into the pipe just before it goes into the noisemaker. There is a rubber abrasion ring on the outside of the pipe which you can slide out of the way to install a hose clamp. Then slide the abrasion ring back as close to the original location as possible. Reinstall the noisemaker so it still looks factory. No open lines and no opening going through the firewall to block. Still looks stock but no noise now. One less thing for the dealership to get upset about.
PM sent! The first pm I sent wasn't complete....hit send accidentally.
Use the second pm.
Use the second pm.
Hey can you post or send me specific instructions on how to do this? I'm a bit of a mechanical newbie. I just received the Way noisemaker delete and it didn't come with instructions...I like your idea of leaving the original noisemaker part itself in, so that the dealer can't find another excuse to not fix something.
Got it. Thank you so much, Futuremini -- your instructions are thorough and descriptive. I will give it a shot in the morning, and have no doubt that I'll make it through fine.
Thanks again -- you rock!
Thanks again -- you rock!