Anyone now which NAPA part I should use with the M7 pulley, just the supercharger pulley reduction, no 2% crank.


Also any find a good way to release the belt tensioner without getting the tool? Kinda in a bind, don't want to wait to get one from an online vendor.

 

I ordered the "35" belt that is listed at Alta... crossing fingers that it will work

 

NAPA belt # 060535 will work nicely..

As for the tool.. I have "heard" - not witnessed - a long pry bar and a 2x4 can work but not as safe/easy as using the tool..

Good luck..

 

I just did my belt last week. I found some guy's solution on here for not using the tool, after a while of searching. Can't remember his name or where to find the post, but the credit goes to him for this. It works quite well. I just found some old iron rod in my garage, it was about 3ft long, and just picked random screw out of my toolbox that looked about right.

So a long rod or pry bar
a 5/8 hex socket for a fulcrum point
a 1" to 1.5" screw
and a little allen key to place in the hole to hold the tensioner back.


Here's a quick diagram of the set up.

 

I've done it like that with no problems. Never thought about putting a socket on the bolt as a fulcrum, just used the bolt head itself.

 

not seeing NAPA belt # 060535 listed anywere on napa's site. ?

 

I bought mine from the local NAPA parts store last week, they had it in stock, it was $32.

 

ok, I'll check it out my local store tomorrow then. thanks....now let me hope I got a long piece of metal sitting around somewhere...

 

Here's what you want. Use it on my M7....no squeal on cold start, no other problems.

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S...535_0227723267

 

Teda that link doesn't work.

As for the # 060535 I got it, doesn't seem to fit though, seems half an inch short...been trying to get it on there for the past hour.

 

I've got the Napa 060535 on mine...works great, I've got just over one hole showing after the belt is broken in. It'll fit, keep trying. You may need to collapse the tensioner more to get it on.

 

It is not an easy installation. You just need to make sure the tensioner is completely out of the way.

Best if you have a buddy helping.

 

Si, I got a 2nd set of hands in there and it's all good. Thanks for the help everyone. I think collapsing the tensioner more would have helped, but had it as far as I could get it while having my hand in there too..had a pin in the 2nd hole holding it, is there third hole for future reference?

 

Yeah it's a very tight fit, I have a Helix 15% pulley. I used the pin in the second tensioner hole as well. I looking at far the spring was compressed, I don't think it would be possible to get to the third hole if there is one. I think the key is work the belt around all the pulleys and leave the smooth idler pulley for the last one. Since it's smooth you can work the belt around it from the top of the engine. Just get it started, and then pull up and push it on.

 

Yep......idler last works best!