ok, this is the same question I asked in the how to but I'd figure that everyone would think it was an old post so....how many bottles do I need. Help

 

SILVER,

Are you replacing your fluid. If you are you need 2 bottles.

IMHO use Motul - I think the cat. # is RBF60 but not positive, it's at home and I'm at the office. It is good up to something like 600degrees F.
Gook luck, Woody

 

Since people will probably look here...

When bleeding the brakes and/or replacing the fluid, at what point do you start adding new fluid? In reading the how-to, it seems like you would start adding it before all the old was gone. Would you not be mixing new with old and therefore having left-over old crappy stuff in there?

 

Thanks DocSandi Yes, I am bleeding the brakes. Have you done this already. I'm ready to place an order for ATE super blue and wanted to be sure I got enough to do the job right the first time. I'm using a pump up bleeder kit so they'll be minimal waste.

 

>>Since people will probably look here...
>>
>>When bleeding the brakes and/or replacing the fluid, at what point do you start adding new fluid? In reading the how-to, it seems like you would start adding it before all the old was gone. Would you not be mixing new with old and therefore having left-over old crappy stuff in there?
>>
>>
If you are doing a complete flush, take a turkey baster or equivalent and suck the brake fluid out of the reservoir, then fill the reservoir with new fluid and start bleeding the brakes. Be sure to wipe off the turkey baster before returning it to the kitchen drawer: nobody will ever know it was gone. Refill the resovoir often--like after every wheel cylinder, to make sure that you aren't running the reservoir dry, and sucking air into the master cylinder or lines.

Another thing you can do is to use something like ATE Superblue fluid, which is blue, so you can see when you have cleared the lines completely of the old fluid. If you have the blue in your brake system already, alternate with Motul or if you are feeling racy, spring for the Castrol SRF. -Eric

 

Thanks Mr. Helix!

What should I be looking for when I buy brake fluid? Are there specific numbers or letters or codes or something? And why is Castrol SRF "racier" than Motul or Superblue?

 

>>Thanks Mr. Helix!
>>
>>What should I be looking for when I buy brake fluid? Are there specific numbers or letters or codes or something? And why is Castrol SRF "racier" than Motul or Superblue?
>>

Boiling point is what separates the men from the boys when it comes to brake fluid. Fluids are rated with a dry and a wet boiling point. For most of the top brake fluids, dry boiling point ranges from about 550-600 degrees F, which is more than enough for a day at the track. As soon as the bottle is open, brake fluid starts to absorb moisture, and when it gets 'wet', the boiling point lowers drastically. In the case of Motul/ATE, wet boiling point lowers to about 400F, which will get your fluid boiling if you're running hard. The Castrol fluid has really good resistance to moisture, so it's wet boiling point decreases to only 518F, hence the 'racier' of the group.

Castrol SRF is the most expensive of the bunch, but it's worth it if you do a lot of tracking with the car and don't want to swap in new fluid every couple of times you go out.

Hope that helps.

 

>>SILVER,
>>
>>Are you replacing your fluid. If you are you need 2 bottles.
>>

BTW - The color of Motul is very close to the stock fluid, just alittle more amber in color. I used a non-preassure "one-man" system and it was very hard to tell the difference in the catch bottle. Therefore, I pumped a little more than I had to to play it safe.

Moral, buy three bottles as you may have less than a holf bottle left.

Or, do your first change to Super Blue.

 

I'm using a one man system with ATE super blue so I'll know when the new stuff is coming out. Just want to make sure that 2 liter is all I need. Too late, already order just 2.


>>>>SILVER,
>>>>
>>>>Are you replacing your fluid. If you are you need 2 bottles.
>>>>
>>
>>BTW - The color of Motul is very close to the stock fluid, just alittle more amber in color. I used a non-preassure "one-man" system and it was very hard to tell the difference in the catch bottle. Therefore, I pumped a little more than I had to to play it safe.
>>
>>Moral, buy three bottles as you may have less than a holf bottle left.
>>
>>Or, do your first change to Super Blue.

 

where cam I get the bleeding pump for one man operation ? Are there more kinds/brands? Prices?

Thanks, Jcs

 

>>If you are doing a complete flush, take a turkey baster or equivalent and suck the brake fluid out of the reservoir, then fill the reservoir with new fluid and start bleeding the brakes. Be sure to wipe off the turkey baster before returning it to the kitchen drawer: nobody will ever know it was gone.

 

As an alternative to a pressure rig try these replacement bleeders. They allow one person to bleed the brakes with nothing else needed other than keeping the master cylinder topped up and the usual hose from the bleeder into a collection bottle. I've installed them and they worked great.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

 

>>where cam I get the bleeding pump for one man operation ? Are there more kinds/brands? Prices?
>>
>>Thanks, Jcs

The one I have is not nearly as "tech" as the other one mentioned.

It is essentially a plastic hose that goes into a little plastic bottle with a magnet that allows you to place it upright on the brake disk.

It pushes the old fluid below the fluid line such that it can't suck air back into the brake lines.

Should cost under $10 or if you are real cheap you could make it for about $2

Any auto parts store should have them.