Today I finally was able to devote enough time to get everything buttoned back up on the Mini. What I did was a RMW head, ARP head studs, Cometic MLS head gasket, RMW cam, 17% pulley, cooler plugs, RMW shorty header, and Milltek exhaust. I started it up and didn't get any clatters or bangs, and the exhaust sounded fine, no leaks. But, I get no response from the gas pedal. Or should I say minimal? The max RPM I got was 2000. Idle was bad, very rough, didn't really want to run. EML light was on. So I shut her back down before I hurt something. Any clues what I might have screwed up???

if there were big leaks, it wouldn't idle... Maybe the ECU is confused? Disconnect the battery for a bit, and give it a go!

I can't think of anything that wouldn't let it run if it will idle other than maybe a plugged cat or muffler.

Matt

miss an electical connector somewhere? MAF

Could be. The big connector on the ECU always gives me a hard time trying to get it latched back in. I'll undo the battery and let it sit a bit. Then I'll check back in.

Yessir, That's exactly what I did. I dunno if it's the MAF, but the connector was on the throttle body. Hooked it up, all better. Now, I am supposed to run it up to 2000-3000 RPM for a few minutes for the cam?

That would be a "Yessir"!

I started er back up and ran it between 2000 and 3000 for 8 minutes. No noises, no leaks. Some smoke. I assume either the exhaust, the header or both had a coating on them that needs to burn off. I took it for a ride. Very nice! Next I gotta go for a Jan-tune, and put in the 440cc injectors. Then it should be a nice little beast.

Enjoy, I know I do!

You gotta have some smoke, this is good smoke, healthy beast smoke......

I've got a service engine soon light on now. Actually it came on last night. So I guess a code reader is in order to nail down why the computer's not happy.

The upstream O2 sensor might not be happy with the smoke.
Keep us posted

I just ordered a ScanGaugeII so I can read codes, reset them, and monitor things. Hopefully this weekend I can plug in and see what's what.

when the ECU couldn't control the TB. You should have 2-3 from just that alone....

anyone reading this thread, if you're gonna work on a modern car, get a code reader! It's the only way for your car to talk to you!

In fact, if you'd had the code reader when it first threw them, they would have said something about the TB, and you could have checked the connector right then and there!

Matt

ps, I'm not trying to be a jerk, its just a manditory tool for the toolbox for anyone who works on cars now. I'm still shocked at how many will work on thier cars without one.

FYI I had a check engine light as well when I first installed the shorty header, they went away within a few minutes. By my best guess, with a new cat it took a bit for it to heat up and start doing what it's supposed to. Once the light went away, on it's own, I've never had another issue with it since.

Well ain't I just a lucky SOB. I ordered the ScanGaugeII from work. Got out to the car after work, started it up, NO LIGHT! Oh, well, I do need the scanner. The days of tuning an engine by ear are gone (unless you own a Cummins 12 valve Dodge truck ). I'm sure it'll come in handy.

what you'll find when your scan gauge show up is that there is a stored code, even though it's not showing now. There are three basic types of codes:
Latching. Once it's tripped, it's there till cleared. These suck.
Only when present. It only shows when the fault is present, and the light will go out on the next start up after the fault is no longer there. While you think you have a clean bill of health cause the light isn't lit, there is stored information.
In between the two: These require a certain number of "drive cycles" to clear where a drive cycle is defined as starting with a cold engine, getting to full operating temps, with a certain amount of miles driven. These stick around for a while, then go away.

No matter the type of event that occurs, you will have stored information. Also, there are "drive cycle" tests that the ECU will run, if these are not set, you won't pass smog, depending on the state. A good scanner will tell you the status of these tests as well. And FWIW, there is associated information with the code, like engine load, RPM and speed, that can be of use when diagnosing your problem.

Matt

Yeh, guess I gotta get familiar with these dang computer cars. I've owned dozens, but my personal daily drivers have been non-computer, with a few exceptions. Time to give up and step into the 80's.

When you scan for a stored code, if there is 1, please post.
No suprise that the CEL went out. Neither of the O2 sensors like smoke, they are "green".

Good info from Dr. O

Will do. Most likely won't be until Saturday, but I'll be spending some time with it, for sure.

I ordered my ScanGauge2 from Way Motor Works on Monday. It was in my mail box this afternoon. Holy moley, that was fast! Anyway, the codes are as follows:

P0000 I take to be a companion code?
P0123 TPS circuit high
P0222 TPS circuit low
P0441 Evaporative emission system incorrect purge flow

I can understand the P0123 and P0222 since the connector at the throttle body was disconnected when I first started it. If the P0000 is in fact a companion code, okay. But the P0441 has me scratching my head a bit. Any clues for that one? The ScanGauge apparently doesn't want to clear the codes. I'm a bit bummed about that.

there are two potentiometers in the TB, and when they're not connected, the ECU reads that as a high voltage and throws those. Don't know about the 0000. The 0441 has poped up every now and then. I THINK it's a leak in the vacuum lines to the tank, but I'm not remembering for sure. You may want to search on that number. If it wasn't there before, then check the connecitons on that vacuum gizmo by the passenger side SC horn, and any other vacuum line that you worked on when you were doing the work on your car. I think there's a connector over by the t-stat housing as well, but I did my head so long ago that I don't remember that well. Also could be the gas cap not being on.

You can always try another OBD-II scanner to clear them, lots of auto parts stores loan them. I don't have a Scan Gauge, so I can't help you with that one.

Matt

don't forget to retorque the exhaust manifold bolts now that you've heat-cycled. they will have loosened up a half a turn or more.

No clear code???? I'd be bummed too.

That could be simple. I'm going to look for something tomorow. Simple would be a loose gas cap. My guess is it's something like that
You can get a real simple reader that will clear the code for less than $30 at your local A Zone.
A good thing to do when you do a mod or, even change plugs is to disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes ( some will say 24 hours ). Sounds odd but it works. I'm sure you've done this while you were doing this last bit of work but try it you might be suprised.