I will start by mentionning that I HAVE read around and that while I have found out information on individual mods, I would like to comprehend further the effects of each one on another mod as an ensemble. (end of anti-flame disclaimer )

1. My car: completly stock 2005 MCS
2. My goal: Getting the most added fun factor for the lowest amount of money.
3. Restrictions: I would like to keep the car a few hours away from stock as I have a warranty remaining and would not like to void it.

I am pretty sure on what my first mods will be.
-I will go for a good CAI (Jan recommended JCW)
-I will go for a 15% Pulley with a shorter belt (to play it safe)

Now what I hesitate on:

1. I need a tune for sure but don't know which: Everyone seems to agree that a custom tune from Jan is the way to go, what I stick on is that the ppl that sell Unichip tell you a custom tune will void your warranty and vice versa. I would just like to get an input from ppl around. Other than stay away from that crap, I haven't really seen much interesting and intelligent reviews or feedbacks on the subject. Isn't a unichip exactly the same thing as an external ecu that you remove when you want ??
2. I want to invest around a 1000$ total however, so a tune, a cai and a pulley would leave me with around 200$ CAD (so around 300$ USD ) was wondering if my next move should be getting JCW injectors (which I think with a setup so close to stock would be useless) or should I up my budget and go for an exhaust (the way I understand it, will results in a HP gain only if I further mod the car ???). Spark ? Plugs? Do keep in mind that I am not looking for ''bling'' or more sound, I only care about HP and more importantly torque.

That is about it,
Thanks in advance for your inputs,
NiK

 

ECU - Unichip is a piggyback system, the short of it is that it sends "false" signals to your ECU so your ECU does things differently. Correct it can be removed for dealer work HOWEVER the Unichip cannot meet what can be done w/ a ECU overwrite program. As an example your rev limiter cannot be changed. PLUS there is some wire tapping and that does leave a small trace that you touched the car.

My view is not to go the piggyback route but a custom tune. Typically the worse case at the dealer is that the dealer overwrites the custom tune file and you would have to send your ECU to JAN so he could upload your file again. Typically the dealer cannot see the custom tune and based on your mod level I would go for it.

CAI - many like the JCW however it is more expensive. Based on your budget I think you could find an as good CAI for less and direct monies else where.

Pulley - no discussion whatsoever - pulley-up. BUT this would void warranty so do the custom tune as well.

ejectors - at this level would pass.

Lastly - let the car exhale - exhaust. cheapest is 1-ball and in actuality an excellent choice. If you have more $$ then there are lots of systems to consider - focusing on loudness decision.

hope this helps.

 

If you're going to add a pulley you should go one step down in spark plugs. Jan can recommend a good set of NGK Iridiums for your mod level.

Pulley is a must.

Intake, Jan is right, JCW is probably the way to go with a new filter (Full sealed box made of plastic for minimal heat soak), however if you're on a budget, the Helix intake (www.helix13.com) is cheap, and works great.

The One-Ball is very much about sound and not much about performance, the stock piping is a major restriction. You do save about 20 lbs by hacking off one of the mufflers though. I'd recommend the Ireland Engineering exhaust. Talk to Danny at MiniCorsa about pricing, but I seem to remember it was under $300. It wasn't the prettiest exhaust, but it sounded fine, and has larger piping so it should allow the car to breath a little better.

As for tuning. If you buy a Unichip you'd already be over budget, as they cost close to 1k without any software. Most people that use Unichips find that the ECU "Learns" around the chip and most if not all of the performance gain is negated. It also has a tendency to cause false signals which can trigger check engine lights, etc.

I'd definitely get a reflash from Jan. There is no "Total Warranty Void". The dealer can't just wipe your entire warranty. They'll hassle you about the pulley if they're really bad, otherwise they likely won't care. Most dealers don't have a clue anyway and wouldn't even notice it was there. If you're concerned about warranty, go with the JCW box, that with a pulley and a tune would be pretty much undetectable without some serious scoping around by someone who knows what to look for (The dealer does not). To my knowledge there is no way for a dealer to tell that you've reflashed software to the car. Their equipment isn't for reading software, just for reflashing as factory updates come out. If they have to change the software on your car for some reason just know that it will wipe the tune and you'll have to get it retuned.

Good luck .

If you're still on edge about a few things, give Jan a call or e-mail him. He's a great guy and very helpful. He'd be glad to help you move in a direction that has some room to grow, and he's one of the most knowledgeable tuners out there for MINI's .

 

Intake- dont forget the DINAN. Same basic idea as the JCW, no flap, cowl inducted, $200.

Exhaust, (Milltek, I prefer), 15% pulley and a Jan Tune. Done.

 

Use $100 of that last $200 for a stiffer rear sway bar.

 

Thanks a lot for all your inputs guys !

So up to know I know I have eliminated the unichip !
I will go with pulley, CAI (most probably JCW) and new spark plugs.
Then I will go for an exhaust and wait until start of summer and go out for a road trip to see Master Jan to get it all worked out !

Total cost (I'll be pessimistic on prices)
Pulley with belt: 120$
CAI : 300$
Sparks : 80$
Exhaust : 450$
Jan Tune : 350$
------
1300$


OldRick about rear sway bar, I have no idea if that will be necessary for my driving habits but then again I have had the mini for only 2 weeks, you guys think this is a most even though I am already over budget... If you guys tell me it is I will just delay a couple weeks and do it all.

B.T.W Thanks again to everyone for your inputs, i really appreciate it being the newbie I am

NiK

 

You asked for fun to drive, not just quicker.

If you ever drive around corners, the rear sway bar will make your mini a lot more fun when you do it.

 

It's true a sway bar is fun, but getting a set of springs will do much of the same, and lower the car. Unless you're driving at or near the limit you won't be able to even get your stock sway bar to be of much use.

Jan is also working on a "Remote Tune", where he can tune your car without you driving all the way down here, check back .

 

I agree here. The general consensus is that the rear sway is the first suspension mod to do. Shorter / stiffer springs are not a replacement for sway bars.

 

Somewhere while dreamin about a Rocket Mini I did forget about fun factor !

So I guess we are up to 1400$, I guess this is what it'll look like:

Pulley with belt: 120$
CAI : 300$
Sparks : 80$
Exhaust : 450$
Rear Sway: 100$
Jan Tune : 350$
------
1400$

Anything I'm missing or assuming wrong or being stupid about ?

NiK

 

keep an eye on the marketplace - you should be able to pick up a good CAI at half price. Another option is an ITG replacement filter for the stock box ($62).

 

You are on the right track.
VERY good move to stay away from the UselessChip. Sad day to spend 12-1500 then 3 mos later watch your car p/u another 12-16 whp when you take it off on the dyno and god forbid you should ever have to deal with them on a problem!

I would ask though about the tires/wheels you have? Cheapest performance I've found so far is unsprung wt reduction.

If I had it to do over...
1. Tires and wheels. Better tires (non runflat) / lighter wheels.
2. Sway bar
3. HPDE (driving school)
4-40. The other 10k or so Ive spent over the last 2 1/2 years Some good, some bad....

 

get a second job and work on that budget . good advise given so far. you can definitely increase the fun factor w/out breaking the bank. as far as modding and warranty.....it is very dealer dependent. my fellow track buddies and i all have a great relationship w/ our favorite dealership's service department. they know that our cars are heavily modded and track hard. never an issue w/ service (even on modded parts). it might help you to find out your favorite MINI tech's beverage of choice! good luck and have fun.

 

LOL !!! If only I could ... I work full time and am a full time student at university (5 classes). Between work school, my newfound love with the mini plus the countless hours spent on NAM reading... I can tell you my girlfriend hasn't been too happy lately. Bah the mini is WAY more important right !?|

 

For the CAI, I also think the Dinan would be a good choice, it would save you 100 bucks. Also, research the plugs a little more, I don't think these are an absolute necessity.

 

i'll give you a break, then.....you'll just need a little patience until that education can start to pay for the freight!

 

GET A TWURBO!!!!!!!!!!

 

Few problems with your list...

Pulley: Need the removal tool (another ~$100) and the belt tensioner (another ~$80)
Sparks: Way too high, unless your getting them from the dealer. You can get a set (the JCW in fact) aftermarket for $6 or so a plug.
Exhaust: $450, if your planning on only getting on the Ireland or so. Most of the cat-backs round these parts are ~$700+, not including install.
Jan-tune: Only $350 if you're not factoring in dyno time (bet on about an hour for ~$50 bucks). Possible drive to location as well costs $$$; fuel has been making everyone unhappy lately.

And learn your car first (as has been stated in the recommendation of an HPDE).

It's amazing how everyone suggests a rear sway-bar first...this should be the last thing added to tie your suspension together, after wheels, tires, shocks, springs, camber plates...The problem with our car is that the front won't turn in, not that the back won't come around. Sway-bars should be used to keep the car body flat, not to induce oversteer to compensate for understeer. The consensus, I would say in this case, is wrong. Granted shorter/stiffer springs are not a replacement, but they're not meant to be. They're meant to be used in conjunction with a sway-bar...but the sway-bar, likewise, is not a replacement (as most think it is) for shorter/stiffer springs. Having the back end of our cars come around (trail-braking, entering too hot) is all too easy for an inexperienced driver...a sway-bar exacerbates this, and the fact we're driving FWD doesn't make it easier to recover from.

So the biggest thing is to realize possible install costs in your build. Making a list of parts is handy but unless you're a capable installer, double the price of near everything.

- Matt

 

FWIW, I found a big difference in both my Cooper and S when I installed a rear sway bar. An often overlooked mod is to lighten up the wheels on the corners and reduce all that unsprung weight. I felt an immediate difference when I went from stock to OZ's. This is assuming you'll lose the run-flats and go with a high or ultra performance tire as well.

 

OBX SS CATBACK EXHAUST SYSTEM BMW MINI COOPER-S 01-06 for 250 + 100$ ship what do you say ?

Have looked everywhere and the question has been asked before but it seems no one has ever bought it ???

 

That ebay link won't last long around here...

 

Bahamabart runs the full OBX exhaust and regularly praises it.

 

As stated above a properly set up car doesn't need a stiffer sway bar to bring the back end around. Yes, you can get a beefy rear-sway and make the back come around really easily (You can also take the front one off), but if you have a STIFFER spring setup (H-Sports and most of the others aren't actually any stiffer than stock) the car will handle much better, and whether you have the stock sway bar or a 24mm rear bar won't make much of a difference.

I've spent wayyy too much money on suspensions over the years, trust me, you're just covering up the problem if you stick a sway bar on a car with stock suspension .

 

I found when I added a 19mm, I was able to neutralize the car handling characteristics. Perhaps it is covering up the problem however the solution is not springs but coilovers. Your running coilovers which maintain the harmony between springs and shock valving. Shorter springs w/ stock shocks can throw this relationship off - compromising the shocks valving capabilities and then they are not working in harmony. I've ridden in a bunch of cars w/ shorter springs and stock shocks and while they run flatter in the turns, the ride is pretty bad.

I'm old school, if I could only change one thing then I would change shocks before springs to "improve" the cars suspension. Clearly the way to go is coilovers and while you can get some really good deals - its not in everyone's budget.

 

I have had no issue w/ my set-up in 20,000 miles.

Its not a full catback because you re-use the stock center pipe. When you can get the header for 200 bucks and the catback for 299, you get a lot for 499 when most just catbacks cost more.

For the budget enthusiast, my favorite system is still an obx header w/ a 1-ball. Grant it you don't get new sexy tips nor sexy loudness but you do fell a SOP improvement. This set-up address the primary issues w/ the exhaust system - the pre-cat bottle neck as well as the long and loopy exhaust path.

Is there "better" - sure, but how much better is unclear for the $$ spent.