Back to the "...most added fun factor for the lowest amount of money." original question, the single biggest improvement in all aspects of the car would be to sell off the stock wheels and tires, and get lightweight (9-12 lbs.) wheels with performance tires.

It would give about as much improvement in acceleration as a pulley, would also improve braking and handling at the same time, could stay under the $1000 investment criteria, and is easily reset to stock if desired.

However, no-one wants to hear that - most people just want a quicker car, and think that's how you have fun.

WHEELS and TIRES are the parts that count most, folks, and it's weight that matters, not size.

 

Better handling unfortunately usually means a bumpy ride . It's true it's not as apparent with shorter springs, but that's because most of the companies out there offer a softer than stock progressive spring as a replacement. Both JCW and TSW Offer linear springs with stiffer than stock spring rates that work to improve suspension feel and flatten the car out. Megan Coilovers (While a bit bouncy) offer all the benefits of the Cross setup at 1/3rd the cost (Even though they lack a few features and don't handle quite as well).

Sway bar's can help, but like someone else mentioned, it can throw off the neutrality of the car, and cause an oversteer tendency.

 

I define better street handling as going around corners at rational-on-public-road speeds, faster and with more precision and control. That does not require twitchy steering or lowering for over-150-mph stability.

Better handling does not have to mean worse ride. Stick with stock springs, and you can still run with the fast and the furious. You don't need coil-overs for street-based handling performance.

Keeping it in the fun-to-drive-on-the-street category, perhaps you should be looking at Koni FSD shocks. A somewhat firmer shock than stock with a much better ride, and with stock springs, you still have plenty of wheel travel for the potholes. Because it isn't rock-hard or short-stroke, you get superior adhesion in bumpy corners.

I've got them - they turn the famous MINI ox-cart-like-ride into better-than-go-kart handling.

To improve MINI handling at moderate cost, start thinking about adding front-end bracing for chassis rigidity: the Cabrio diagonal braces, the OMP under-strut and strut-top, or other brands of braces.

 

I went w/ bilstien shocks, stock springs, yes a 19mm rear sway, sparco rims (18lbs) and falken avenis rt 615 AND while I may not be able to keep up w/ a set of cross coilovers the car handles much better than stock, firmed up but not harsh nor bumpy - making daily driving - regular or spirited a pleasure.

 

For those looking at good bang for buck stuff,and really care about handling over having the most "slammed" car,the TSW spring/oem shock combo is working well for me.In conjunction with a 20mm rear anti sway,14.5 lb SSR's/kumhos.There is no hint of rough ride;only tight,responsive,crisp.
My advice:Invest well in wheels(no skimping).
Alternate between speed and handling mods as you progress to stay balanced.

 

If the way I am interpreting this is correct then my dealer must be the exception to the rule, they will void your entire powertrain warranty for something as benign as a cat-back exhaust.

 

The dealer doesn't have the authority to void a warranty, that has to come from corporate, and they don't "Void" it, they just deny the claim.

Reading on why a dealer can't void a warranty for modding your car:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson-Moss_Warranty_Act

 

LOL !!! If only I could ... I work full time and am a full time student at university (5 classes). Between work school, my newfound love with the mini plus the countless hours spent on NAM reading... I can tell you my girlfriend hasn't been too happy lately. Bah the mini is WAY more important right !?|

lol you need to do what i did in collage sell plasma you can do it twice a week and you get 60 bucks. plus after you are a one and drunk

 

I did that and the OTHER donation on a monthly basis. I forget what they paid us (lived w/ 4 other guys) for the other donation - it didn't matter because I was going to get my hands on it anyway.

 

pulley-+1, if your not worried about the bling id go for an alta V1.0
uni-crap: dont even bother with the flashy commercials and cool flux display, its junk. so +1 for the custom tune. go for a tune from jan or search around for a custom shop that would offer GIAC or or MTH.

Exhaust: if your not worried about a better sound, id start with somthing like an OBX header and see what you think, then go for a Borla street cat back system. This system will give you a small Hp gain with not alot of tourqe gain(although you may expeirence a different gain then i did), it will also give a little more of a throaty growl.

Injectors: with the amount of money you want to spend on your cooper, i'd stay away from injectors just because your car will not be "begging" you for more fuel. Although once you get your tune you may find that it requires more, which in that case you could opt for somthing like a JCW or bosch.

CAI:definitly a good upgrade. there are many out there to choose from but really youll come to find that there pretty much the same. I have a K&N typhoon, but honestly im not happy with it just because of the fact that its an unsealed box and the filter tends to get really dirty(seeing that some how my under bonnet seems to always get filthy). If your into sumthing more "blingy", then dale from voltage offers a pretty sweet setup called the 53r, you can find it at www.1fastmini.com.

afterthoughts: definitly switch out the run flats for sumthing a little lighter and maybe opt for an aluminum wheel. If you plan on dumping more money into your baby down the road and you really get into tuning it then id opt for a new cam and head. Another thing that may help you out is a coil pack(+1 for the MSD) and some cooler plugs(ex:IK22's are pretty decent).

just have fun with it and dont hesitate to ask on here before you buy, itll save you alot of money down the road.


best of luck and happy motoring

 

LOL !!!!!!!!

 

Forget all this , go Sprint Booster and save for a performance head.

 

+1

Some would say better than the JCW for reasons mentioned...

 

-1 on the sprint booster . Although i do agree on saving for the head, why would u want to spend 400 bucks on a universal throttle link system not specifically designed for an MCS, but rather an MBZ. Altogether just dont even waste your time( seeing that its from mini mania it gonna take atleast 2-3 weeks to get ) and money when you could get that or better results from a custom flash and dyno tune. all in all, save your money and stick to the basics and you'll do just fine

 

The sprint booster is designed to give you the feel of more HP via the pedal BUT you get no more actual power.

 

The OP asked for fun per dollar; no bolt-on provides as much useable improvement, over a broader range, for the money $299 ebay, $329.95 MiniMania, than the Sprint Booster. It’s the fast track for fun.

 

fun factor indeed, but if you read his post i said he also cares about Hp, and indeed sprint booster does not add this, that is why i disagree on purchasing it. Although it may give u better response, i dont believe for $400 its worth it when there are better mods to be had

 

no doubt.

If you want better throttle response, simply purchase an ankle weight and wear it until you are going driving, remove it and you will get the equivalent of a speed booster effect.

 

Mods on the cheap:
pully with belt - 130
plugs - 40
Cai - 300
One-ball - 65 (add an obx header with stock cat for 350)
Tune - 450 (1 hour dyno time)
Rear Sway - 200

I've got the same engine mods as this and Jan was able to tune my car to just short of 200whp and 175tq. All total I've spent about 800 bux on my engine.

Do not add springs only... you're going to end up with so much rear camber that your car will understeer like a biznitch. If you do springs you need to add rear control arms at the very minimum...

 

thank you bahamabart, my thoughts exactly in lameness terms

 

One would think Bahamabart, having experienced the benefits of LDG throttle map & torque management enhancements, could appreciate a sharper edge to throttle response, after all he once said those changes alone were worth the tune and the rest of the tune day event participants were equally impressed with that aspect regardless of HP deltas.

The Sprint Booster does not advance throttle plate position ahead of accelerator position; the time for plate position response to pedal position is quicker.

The OP has stated he is getting the pulley so no need to provide redundant advice.

He left an open door for future modifications in the pursuit of power gains. No need to add the tune at this time until his path is defined; after all he is concerned with economy. There is more than one path to power; increased displacement and/or increased boost will overcome shortcomings from the OEM cylinder head making even a head swap unnecessary (if enough money is thrown at it), however, that economy thing will mess up a good wet dream. From my perspective, headwork can be a cost effective approach, and all those suggestions for exhaust shortcuts well utilized, if the head choice is framed in an “economy” context. If one chooses the most touted head on the market today, RMW, it would be a waste to choke those mile wide exhaust ports with any thing else but RMW’s complimentary exhaust system, Stahl’s proven product, or a free flowing custom, all are pricey options, and all are loud which the OP stated in post#1 is not something he wants.

In the suspension department I would suggest increasing negative camber up front before anything else, wear the tire tread, brake pads, rotors, and struts out before replacing, and keep the OEM springs; there is no substitute for experience/seat time to help define one’s need.

 

Bahamabart?

- Matt

 

Thanks to everyone and a special thanks to bahama for telling us about his *manly* donation.

Here is my plan:

1) Get CAI (Dinan or DDM) , Pulley and belt
2) Find a great deal in marketplace on Header (OBX) and Exhaust (UCC,
Milltek - although a little loud or abrand new OBX) I don't like the one ball idea.
3) Try to catch Jan, end of April in NY

Things to add later on maybe in the summer maybe after:

-Supsension items, still unclear to me ... will post again in due time
-new wheels, already have non flat ultra performance summer tires.

That's about it

So thank you will be posting to show you guys the progress with my baby

NiK

 

nuf said

 

Now you know how to build your MINI budget faster and its FUN .