Drivetrain OK, now what? Questions about pulley upgrade...
OK, now what? Questions about pulley upgrade...
So, I've got disbursement authorization for a new pulley and I know that I'll get a new belt with this project, however, what other implied items (otherwise required) should I get to "complete" this install? Different type plugs? ECU tune? Though I'm debating between the 17% and the 19% pulley, I've read on NAM that the 15% puts less 'strain' on the motor and can use the stock belt. How much more wear and tear would either of these more aggressive pulleys put on an R53 MCS with 33k miles?
Remember fellas, not doing a complete rebuild of the motor, just looking at a one-time upgrade of the pulley and want to make sure that this job is done right the first time. Thanks for ya'll's responses!! (And, yes, that is a word, too!!)
Cheers!!
Remember fellas, not doing a complete rebuild of the motor, just looking at a one-time upgrade of the pulley and want to make sure that this job is done right the first time. Thanks for ya'll's responses!! (And, yes, that is a word, too!!)
Cheers!!
I guess I'll be the first to chime in... *edit, I took to long to type
*
First off, there has been extensive research into the "anything beyond a 15% pulley is bad" area. Randy Webb supposedly had information regarding this topic directly from Eaton. The issue with anything beyond a 15% pulley is that you start to heat the air going into the intake, therefor negating the benefits of the smaller pullies. It has been shown that the 15% with other add-ons is the way to go.
Another beef with the 19% is that they have a tendency to chew through belts, and overspin the water pump (causing cavitation) therefor killing it prematurely, and possibly causing your motor to over-heat...warping a head or worse. Now this has been documented, but there are a lot of guys who will swear up and down that they have not had any problems. Good to know, but is it a risk you want to take?
If I were you, off the bat, I'd do a 15% pulley, intake, exhaust, NGK plugs. Then I'd look into JCW injectors (if you plan on staying with a stock head) or going with like 440's if you plan to go with an aftermarket head, like RMW's, and then have Jan@ RMW tune the **** out of it. That would be the way to go in my opinion (as I'm currently taking this route), if you want to retain the Eaton M45.
Jan has produce some interesting and promising data, and I look forward to what he can do with my car. Check around in some of the dyno threads, look at what some of these guys/gals have, and make a plan/goal of where you want your car to be.
This is also just my $.02, and I know I'm not always right...
* First off, there has been extensive research into the "anything beyond a 15% pulley is bad" area. Randy Webb supposedly had information regarding this topic directly from Eaton. The issue with anything beyond a 15% pulley is that you start to heat the air going into the intake, therefor negating the benefits of the smaller pullies. It has been shown that the 15% with other add-ons is the way to go.
Another beef with the 19% is that they have a tendency to chew through belts, and overspin the water pump (causing cavitation) therefor killing it prematurely, and possibly causing your motor to over-heat...warping a head or worse. Now this has been documented, but there are a lot of guys who will swear up and down that they have not had any problems. Good to know, but is it a risk you want to take?
If I were you, off the bat, I'd do a 15% pulley, intake, exhaust, NGK plugs. Then I'd look into JCW injectors (if you plan on staying with a stock head) or going with like 440's if you plan to go with an aftermarket head, like RMW's, and then have Jan@ RMW tune the **** out of it. That would be the way to go in my opinion (as I'm currently taking this route), if you want to retain the Eaton M45.
Jan has produce some interesting and promising data, and I look forward to what he can do with my car. Check around in some of the dyno threads, look at what some of these guys/gals have, and make a plan/goal of where you want your car to be.
This is also just my $.02, and I know I'm not always right...
Last edited by skillet; Nov 19, 2007 at 11:55 AM.
... Short story.. You don't really need anything else to go along with the pulley (I'd recommend the 15% as per skillet's post), but complementary parts include exhaust, intake, and tune. That's sorta a "stage 1" upgrade route, and you'll be kicking JCW butts all day long.
Stock plugs are good for 15%, some go down a range (colder). With 17 or 19 some go with larger injectors. Nothing necessary.
Stock belt will work, but even for 15%, it's ideal to go with a smaller than stock belt. Do a search for the part # here on nam, or use the JCW belt from dealer.
Cheers.
Stock plugs are good for 15%, some go down a range (colder). With 17 or 19 some go with larger injectors. Nothing necessary.
Stock belt will work, but even for 15%, it's ideal to go with a smaller than stock belt. Do a search for the part # here on nam, or use the JCW belt from dealer.
Cheers.
Poppa Bear,
First, you know you got some help if you need it. I think the German crew can help you out with tools as I and others have the pulley tool and belt tensioner.
Persoanlly I would stick with the 15% for a lot of the reasons stated above. Heated air, thrown codes are just some of the problems that you will start to encounter. Flyingsmiley went with a 17% when we did our party and loves it but I still don't recommend it for those reasons. He tinkers and doesn't mind small headaches...
ECU and plugs are not needed for the upgrade but like I told the others, the ECU upgrade helps to tell the car what you have done to it. Remember that it won't have a clue. Still, not necessary as you are still in the window of the current settings but it does make driving nice.
Belt can be stock but I do recommend that you change it just because you will have it all out. Might as well. Stock size is fine.
Bottom line is that the pulley can be done on its own. So, buy it and let's get that puppy in.
Will
First, you know you got some help if you need it. I think the German crew can help you out with tools as I and others have the pulley tool and belt tensioner.
Persoanlly I would stick with the 15% for a lot of the reasons stated above. Heated air, thrown codes are just some of the problems that you will start to encounter. Flyingsmiley went with a 17% when we did our party and loves it but I still don't recommend it for those reasons. He tinkers and doesn't mind small headaches...

ECU and plugs are not needed for the upgrade but like I told the others, the ECU upgrade helps to tell the car what you have done to it. Remember that it won't have a clue. Still, not necessary as you are still in the window of the current settings but it does make driving nice.
Belt can be stock but I do recommend that you change it just because you will have it all out. Might as well. Stock size is fine.
Bottom line is that the pulley can be done on its own. So, buy it and let's get that puppy in.
Will
start w/ 15 pulley - it requires no additional mods to work.
I would then consider a
CAI (many options, pick your poison).
Exhaust - For the price of most Catbacks, you could do a OBX header and a 1-ball.
As some one pointed out these 3 are considered level 1. Don't get rapped up in which is the best. The reality is how they work together that makes some set-ups a tad better than others. Keep an eye on on the market place for some of this stuff.
I would then consider a
CAI (many options, pick your poison).
Exhaust - For the price of most Catbacks, you could do a OBX header and a 1-ball.
As some one pointed out these 3 are considered level 1. Don't get rapped up in which is the best. The reality is how they work together that makes some set-ups a tad better than others. Keep an eye on on the market place for some of this stuff.
Fellas, thank you very much for the suggestions for this project. I appreciate everyone's opinions and experience with all of this.
Rule Number One about my car is "Must not hurt Maggie." Whether that is driving fast on the 'Bahn, loading shiite, er... stuff, from Ikea, whatever. With that in mind, I do not want to do anything that could/would cause premature wear. I’m not too worried about any warranty because the European coverage is for two years, and I’ve got about 7 months left on that, whereas the States warranty is based on mileage, and I’m way over that at 34k now. I just don’t want to cause more (expensive) problems down the road. So, the 19% pulley is right out.
What I’m looking for is more pull coming out of the corners because that is what I truly love about my Cooper: zooming round and around the roundabouts of Holland!! I’m diggin the lateral Gs!! Having read that the JCW pulley is about 14%, going with the 15% Alta seems like the best place to start. And since the Disbursement Officer has already decreed that I have a miniscule annual upgrade budget, I want to get the best (vs. biggest) bang for the buck with this project. So, I’m wondering if to achieve this goal, would it be better to get the 17% now (and new belt) rather than a 15% with CAI/exhaust (and new belt)? Either way, I’m guessing an ECU remap is really a smart idea regardless of which pulley I go with, right?
Again, thanks for ya’ll’s suggestions and experiences!
Cheers!!
Rule Number One about my car is "Must not hurt Maggie." Whether that is driving fast on the 'Bahn, loading shiite, er... stuff, from Ikea, whatever. With that in mind, I do not want to do anything that could/would cause premature wear. I’m not too worried about any warranty because the European coverage is for two years, and I’ve got about 7 months left on that, whereas the States warranty is based on mileage, and I’m way over that at 34k now. I just don’t want to cause more (expensive) problems down the road. So, the 19% pulley is right out.
What I’m looking for is more pull coming out of the corners because that is what I truly love about my Cooper: zooming round and around the roundabouts of Holland!! I’m diggin the lateral Gs!! Having read that the JCW pulley is about 14%, going with the 15% Alta seems like the best place to start. And since the Disbursement Officer has already decreed that I have a miniscule annual upgrade budget, I want to get the best (vs. biggest) bang for the buck with this project. So, I’m wondering if to achieve this goal, would it be better to get the 17% now (and new belt) rather than a 15% with CAI/exhaust (and new belt)? Either way, I’m guessing an ECU remap is really a smart idea regardless of which pulley I go with, right?
Again, thanks for ya’ll’s suggestions and experiences!
Cheers!!
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imho, get the ecu remap. i did the 15% pulley and giac tuned and it's amazing. i still don't have a cai and exhaust yet... will get them soon... but love love love love the giac tune! it will definitely get your zooming love on.
If your goal is 'do no harm', then I'd stick with the 15%. That's what they did on the JCW, so I figure they know what they're doing. Also above 15% you start hitting the SC rev specs - best to stay within those if longevity is a priority. No doubt that 17 or 19(!) is cheap torque/horsepower, but with a CAI and/or exhaust, you're producing power more efficiently vs. with the brute force (and heat generation) of the smaller pullies.
If $/Euro are an issue, do an HAI (essentially sticking an air filter directly on the throttle body) and maybe a one-ball (cutting off the first muffler/resonator.)
If $/Euro are an issue, do an HAI (essentially sticking an air filter directly on the throttle body) and maybe a one-ball (cutting off the first muffler/resonator.)
I think a lot depends on how you drive as well - some folks track their cars and live near the redline - this seems to be the only place where the smaller pulleys may create problems... if you're doing 100% street driving and are just looking for maximum torque at lower RPMs, doesn't seem to be any harm in 17% or 19% pulleys (other than eating belts on the 19%)...
That said, I'm a wussy, so I played it safe with a 15%. If I had it to do over again, I might do a 17%...
That said, I'm a wussy, so I played it safe with a 15%. If I had it to do over again, I might do a 17%...
Again, thanks to everyone for their input.
Now for the subjective, flagrant opinions. Would the difference in "zoom factor" between a stock R53 and an R53 with 15% be on the order of "OMG, hold on tight!!!" or "Cool."? How about between the cars with the 15% and the 17%? On a scale of 1 to 5, where 1 is perceived improvement in pull and 5 is difficult to hold on to the wheel, what say ya'll?
I think Blimey made a valid point about driving style effecting wear and tear. Kinda like the "Go" button in Eleanor. Won't use it all of the time but sure is handy to have!!! Especially when visiting my son at App State in Boone!!
As for the actual install, besides needing someone who knows what the heck they are doing (Will? ;> ), a new belt, pulley tool, fairly general purpose tool set, and the proper torquing tool, is there anything else that I will need to do this? I'm planning on using one of the auto craft shops available on the base(s) around here for the lifts and air tools.
{Trust me, Will, I am definitely gonna spring for the beir if you're interested!!}
Cheers!!
Now for the subjective, flagrant opinions. Would the difference in "zoom factor" between a stock R53 and an R53 with 15% be on the order of "OMG, hold on tight!!!" or "Cool."? How about between the cars with the 15% and the 17%? On a scale of 1 to 5, where 1 is perceived improvement in pull and 5 is difficult to hold on to the wheel, what say ya'll?
I think Blimey made a valid point about driving style effecting wear and tear. Kinda like the "Go" button in Eleanor. Won't use it all of the time but sure is handy to have!!! Especially when visiting my son at App State in Boone!!
As for the actual install, besides needing someone who knows what the heck they are doing (Will? ;> ), a new belt, pulley tool, fairly general purpose tool set, and the proper torquing tool, is there anything else that I will need to do this? I'm planning on using one of the auto craft shops available on the base(s) around here for the lifts and air tools.
{Trust me, Will, I am definitely gonna spring for the beir if you're interested!!}
Cheers!!
17 vs 15.....
17 will pull...
but neither of them will give you the crazy 'omfg' impression.
if you want that, you gotta go big. heads, headers and some tunes would probably net you that.
17 will pull...
but neither of them will give you the crazy 'omfg' impression.
if you want that, you gotta go big. heads, headers and some tunes would probably net you that.
I persoanlly didn't want to puch my engine any harder than what MINI spec'ed which is why I stuck to 15% Flying Smiley loves his 17 though...
The choice is yours Papa. We will definetly have to set something up.
The choice is yours Papa. We will definetly have to set something up.
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