I've been away from the board for a while and have a few generic questions about the AP. Are there any maps that *don't* increase the top RPM for us folks with a vehicle still under warranty? Can the sport button be reprogrammed to give heavier steering *without* changing the throttle feel? Lastly, has the burble riddle been solved for early R56 Cooper S's?

 

If you want a map that will keep the stock redline, we can make those. We also can keep the stock throttle feel or the linear throttle feel on the sport button if you're interested. You'll have to email me with the complete name of your map, and we can make a new map for you.

The burble is something that is still in the works, but we're not sure if it'll be something that we will be able to release.

 

When does the ALTA Holiday Sale start?



TODAY!

 

Hi Chris,

To what e-mail address should I send the e-mail? I have already sent one to txxh@altaperformance a few days ago. Is that the correct address?

Thanks.

 

For all map related questions, email me at maps@altaperformance.com, thanks!

 

Wow, this thread has been dormant for a while, lets get this going again!

ALTA is looking for your failed OEM rubber inlet hose!

It has recently come to our attention that the OEM 2007-2010 MCS rubber inlet hoses are starting fail under normal conditions. We are looking for some help from NAM to get our hands on an old failed inlet hose to use for some R&D purposes.

We are willing to exchange a failed OEM inlet hose for a NEW ALTA inlet if you can:
-Provide a high quality picture of it failed on a US 2007-10 Cooper S
-Ship it to us intact as much as possible (we will pay for shipping)

First one that can do this gets one!

Our intentions for the part is to gather data and eventually show customers that their OEM rubber hose will potentially fail during normal maintenance or other installations. We want to get a failed hose to use for some pictures and use to help educate customers through our website. We look forward to getting a PM from a customer soon!

 

I was wondering if you could recommend a set of ramps that will fit under a 13 gp

 

OK, I can help with that....

I've been away for a bit from the Mini scene but I'm coming back to build an SCCA Solo car for STX class. I cannot tune the boost to exceed wherever the "overboost" is set to. If my mod list includes a CAI, DP with cat in factory location(within 6"), exhaust, pulleys(if available) and boost with tune set to factory overboost level, what would you expect the difference in WHP to be for the following.... Also to note, if any of the STX allowed mods(will make a list) happen to raise the boost after the tune, its legal. U just cannot raise the boost using the ECU beyond the max OEM boost.(I know, weird indeed, but that is the rule)

1) 2011-13 Mini Cooper S(N18)
2) 2013 Mini Cooper JCW(N18)
3) 2013 Mini GP2 - I assume this would be the same as the JCW

The only reason I am considering the MCS rather than the JCW is because the MCS allows me to run a very lightweight brake kit that allows for 15" wheels/tires, basically everything much lighter. With the JCW I would be stuck on 17's with heavier brakes.

Also, last time I was around the Access Port was the hot item but has now been discontinued, I am sorry to hear that! I assume you aren't working on one for the N18 engine and that sending in the ECU for reprogramming is the only option? Would it be possible to tune for more than 1 tune, one for MAX safe boost and one for my STX boost? There are some events where I would run SMF that would allow for higher boost and race tires so having both tunes available at an event would be a huge bonus(and boost). ;-)

 

Also interested in the above. But as I read the rules you can't modify the boost tables in the ECU which I don't think means you can just run peak boost everywhere in the RPM range. Lots of cars peak in the mid range and then the boost tapers towards redline. You can't just program it to run 20psi (or whatever the overboost function goes to) at all RPMs.

 

Regarding the ramps. That is a good question. I have only seen one GP so far and for sure the regular ramps we have will not work. I saw a company that made some really simple and cool foam ramps that are specific to lowered cars. Not sure of the brand.

Regarding the AutoX stuff. Chris asked me to help answer this.
Adding the "parts" you are talking about does add power and its roughly about 20HP to the wheels at peak power RPM.

The factory ECU targets load not an actual boost level, so technically there is nor factory boost limit. BUT there is an overall boost that we see from them and if they say you can't exceed this then you could do an ECU tune that never exceeds this. Just as v10climber was saying, I am pretty sure the STX class won't allow you to change the ECU's boost settings at all because there are different boost/load targets at each RPM point. So you can't use the overboost as your guideline of boost you can run.

We do not have any ECU tuning for either engine at this point. But with that said, if you can't change the boost/load in the ECU, then the only thing you can gain is running the car a bit richer (very lean when stock) and a bit more timing, that isn't worth the custom tune. So.... get a JCW

I only say that as they make quite a bit more power from stock, the bolt on's still add more power, and you get the better front diff stock. Also these days the JCW is discounted enough that you should be able to find one at a great price. The weight of the bigger brakes and wheels would be offset by the better braking and more power. At least that is my opinion.

 

OK, that makes sense. I need to spend a bit of time to read up on the rules and see what I can and can't do its been a while since I ran STX.

 

Thanks for the input. That makes sense on the JCW. I'll start hunting for one.

 

For my 2013 MCS Coupe, I see you offer two different exhaust systems. A "Downpipe back", and a "Cat Back". Both seem to result in similar HP gains(according to your website), price is different - Downpipe back, being more expensive.

Why would I want one over the other? What are the differences if any, other than the obvious price, and installation/attachment points.

 

Hi Sbninja, sorry for the delay getting back to you. The downpipe back exhaust that we sell is sold for the JCW only, since the JCW only has one cat.

Technically the downpipe back exhaust will fit on the MCS, but since it deletes a cat, it would be illegal to do so.

The downpipe back exhaust will be louder along with giving slightly more power than just installing a catback exhaust. If you have any more questions, let me know!

 

No Worries Thank you.

 

hi alta

i am a relatively new mini owner and i am planning some work on my 04 s. i have 95k miles and its time to change my oil and belt. i am planning to get the 17% pulley, a new belt, and a new tensioner. i am too old and too lazy to search through the whole thread so i will just ask even if its old hat for some of you. any reason you would recommend a 15% instead of the 17%? and should i do anything else while its apart? waterpump? lightened crank pulley so the stock one doesnt fail on me soon? i always run 93 octane and the car is a daily driver, no track or racing. i just want some more fun on the road. i am also going to do your CAI and some type of exhaust and a tune very soon but havent decided on which exhaust or how to tune it. im leaning towards the quicksilver catback for the single oval tip. id like to find a good shop near tampa to dyno tune it. any advice is greatly appreciated. thanks.

 

Dethbrd,

Normally I'd always recommend the 17%, since it gives the most power, and it doesn't put any more stress on the engine or supercharger that's going to make a difference. The crank pulley of course would be a good idea to replace with ours, since it's solid, and a lot lighter than the factory part. You will just need a BMW special tool if you will be doing the install yourself. If you haven't replaced the plugs ever, it would also be a good idea to replace those as well, we sell a one step colder plug on our site.

I'm not sure of a shop close to you that does dyno tuning, sorry!

 

chris

so ..... the 17% s/c pulley, a pulley puller, a crank pulley, a belt, a BMW special tool, and colder plugs?

which crank pulley should i get? 0% or 2%? i am looking for midrange and more torque, not going to be spending time at redline.

i just changed the plugs a couple thousand miles ago along with the wires and coil, coil was bad, plugs and wires factory. do i need the colder plugs if i always run 93 octane?

got a new tensioner and water pump. still need the tensioner stop too

 

For sure go with the 0% crank pulley. You won't need any more than that with the stock tune. Going above 17% will require a custom tune. If you just replaced the plugs with new factory plugs, you will be OK to continue using them. You can upgrade them at any time with our Brisk plugs.

 

0% crank pulley....got it

since i have no idea when i will be able to get it tuned...

time to order some more parts

thanks

 

I bought a used AP and when I tried to load it on my 2008 S Manual r55 its only showing MCSa maps. I've ran all the updates via the AP Manager but it also only shows MCSa maps. Looks like the previous owner deleted them and I can't seem to find the other maps anywhere. On my BMW I can download the stock maps via COBB. Any ideas?

 

Okay so last week I bought an alta r56 panel air filter. It was a red one that I thought would be easy to clean being that you could visually see the dirt so after checking with you guys that you discontinued the red one, I still went ahead and bought one off of eBay. I went to put it in yesterday and it did not fit. It was not a "drop in" as I was trying to force it in for crying out loud lol. Anyways, I plan on returning it and hope the black one on your site will actually fit. Still confused why the red r56 filter that they claimed was made for an r56 was not fitting. And why did you discontinue the red one?

Oh and I did message again via email last night. I plan to order one soon because my old filter was so dirty it was better to go without one while I wait for the new one. So will it affect anything if I drive without a filter and it rains ? It'll mostly be expressway and city driving.

 

As long as you ran an update using the AP Manager, all of the maps will be loaded into the AccessPORT. When you plug it into your car, it'll determine your car, and show the applicable maps for your car. Then the next time you plug the AP into your computer, it'll show the maps for your car.

Sorry to hear about getting the wrong filter. Did you check the part number to verify it was the right one for your application? Also, do you have a S or normal Cooper?

We changed a few years back to all black filters. You can still tell when it's dirty by looking at the ALTA logo, since it's white, it'll show when it's dirty. You'll want to clean the filter every 7-10,000 miles.

I wouldn't recommend driving without a filter. If you have to, get a stock style paper filter if you have to run it temporarily. They should be less than $20 from Autozone.

 

I did check the part number from their listing to the one on the box and it matched. Sorry, it is a cooper S. I already sent the filter back as it couldn't of been for an r56. I'll have to get one tonight and order one directly from Alta tonight as well. Thanks!