Drivetrain Project "Low IAT"-Intake Manifold Cooling
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
IMD V.2



The front has a slight bend which catches more air coming through the grille.
I also made a wall on the passenger side to direct more air to the manifold. I may put one up on the drivers side too.
I had consistent 4-6 degree approaches on the way home, with ambient at 58 degrees. The manifold was also definitely cooler to the touch.



The front has a slight bend which catches more air coming through the grille.
I also made a wall on the passenger side to direct more air to the manifold. I may put one up on the drivers side too.
I had consistent 4-6 degree approaches on the way home, with ambient at 58 degrees. The manifold was also definitely cooler to the touch.
Last edited by Partsman; May 24, 2007 at 12:32 PM.
IMD V.2
The front has a slight bend which catches more air coming through the grille.
I also made a wall on the passenger side to direct more air to the manifold. I may put one up on the drivers side too.
I had consistent 4-6 degree approaches on the way home, with ambient at 58 degrees. The manifold was also definitely cooler to the touch.
The front has a slight bend which catches more air coming through the grille.
I also made a wall on the passenger side to direct more air to the manifold. I may put one up on the drivers side too.
I had consistent 4-6 degree approaches on the way home, with ambient at 58 degrees. The manifold was also definitely cooler to the touch.
Nicely done
Since we're,,,OK I'm,,, being heat and flow **** here I noticed one thing.
The side wings on the DFIC air guide terminate outside of the fins. Now if they were angled in just a bit.......
Last edited by obehave; May 23, 2007 at 07:50 PM.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
I hear ya about the DFIC diverter, I think i'm going to make a different one and weld it right on.
My little dose of LITHIUM
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Nicely fabricated PARTSMAN! I like the little catcher in front. I also bent the rear edge down to guide more air under the manifold/aerogel.
I did a quick run last night home from the airport. Ambient 65F, approach of 5-6F.
btw, I think my airbox heatup has been slowed down by the black interior. I like the idea of making a new box out of some heat resistant plastic and/or aerogel. I don't have any aerogel left to experiment with, though...
and Peter is in Europe, so he can't hear my cries for help!
I did a quick run last night home from the airport. Ambient 65F, approach of 5-6F.
btw, I think my airbox heatup has been slowed down by the black interior. I like the idea of making a new box out of some heat resistant plastic and/or aerogel. I don't have any aerogel left to experiment with, though...
and Peter is in Europe, so he can't hear my cries for help!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI

Nicely fabricated PARTSMAN! I like the little catcher in front. I also bent the rear edge down to guide more air under the manifold/aerogel.
I did a quick run last night home from the airport. Ambient 65F, approach of 5-6F.
btw, I think my airbox heatup has been slowed down by the black interior. I like the idea of making a new box out of some heat resistant plastic and/or aerogel. I don't have any aerogel left to experiment with, though...
and Peter is in Europe, so he can't hear my cries for help!
I did a quick run last night home from the airport. Ambient 65F, approach of 5-6F.
btw, I think my airbox heatup has been slowed down by the black interior. I like the idea of making a new box out of some heat resistant plastic and/or aerogel. I don't have any aerogel left to experiment with, though...
and Peter is in Europe, so he can't hear my cries for help!
Your approach of 5-6F is right on.
The air box sounds like a plan, i'll look for some proper material.
well i guess i stand corrected ,or sit corrected but at any rate it seems if something isn't stuck up into the wind to catch that air , it 's not nearly as effective . why would they fase rearward ? if it's advantageous then those little c/f dams that were out a while back shoulda' helped . whatever became of them ?
ive been following this thread since it started. great work. i was wondering if DEI's heat screen radiant matting would work on the airbox or even where dr.phil put the aerogel. kinda expensive though. again, thanks for all the great work.
You guys are going great guns here since I'v been gone.
Any big changes for water temp w/ the cut shroud? The cooler the radiator the cooler everything behind it.
Enough info & the discovery theory kicks right in.
BTW all of you with an IRT, this tool is a quick, down & dirty way to find some valuable stats, get a delta & go for it - kind of deal. I wish I haden't broken mine ( on the good side I'll get a better 1 ).
Hey Partsman what happened to the IC you were building using OE ICs? That Iidea was a good 1. Listen to Obe about the IC diverter fence angles, they don't want to cool anything but the core.
Dr Phil, The air box "CAI" has realy been worked. It seems that no mater what we try, the air ends up in the SC & gets heated, making, only, small gains. At high speed there are some bigger gains with a CAI but not as much as the hours that many of us have spent trying to improve it. This thread has generated interest in "Real" underhood heat management. The CIA is a secondary piece of the puzzle IMHO. All that good IAT data you & Obe put together, not to mention "air flow" is now being addressed. Did I mention "air flow"........ again????
Back to the job for another couple of days.
Any big changes for water temp w/ the cut shroud? The cooler the radiator the cooler everything behind it.
Enough info & the discovery theory kicks right in.
BTW all of you with an IRT, this tool is a quick, down & dirty way to find some valuable stats, get a delta & go for it - kind of deal. I wish I haden't broken mine ( on the good side I'll get a better 1 ).
Hey Partsman what happened to the IC you were building using OE ICs? That Iidea was a good 1. Listen to Obe about the IC diverter fence angles, they don't want to cool anything but the core.
Dr Phil, The air box "CAI" has realy been worked. It seems that no mater what we try, the air ends up in the SC & gets heated, making, only, small gains. At high speed there are some bigger gains with a CAI but not as much as the hours that many of us have spent trying to improve it. This thread has generated interest in "Real" underhood heat management. The CIA is a secondary piece of the puzzle IMHO. All that good IAT data you & Obe put together, not to mention "air flow" is now being addressed. Did I mention "air flow"........ again????
Back to the job for another couple of days.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
well i guess i stand corrected ,or sit corrected but at any rate it seems if something isn't stuck up into the wind to catch that air , it 's not nearly as effective . why would they fase rearward ? if it's advantageous then those little c/f dams that were out a while back shoulda' helped . whatever became of them ?
You guys are going great guns here since I'v been gone.
Any big changes for water temp w/ the cut shroud? The cooler the radiator the cooler everything behind it.
Enough info & the discovery theory kicks right in.
BTW all of you with an IRT, this tool is a quick, down & dirty way to find some valuable stats, get a delta & go for it - kind of deal. I wish I haden't broken mine ( on the good side I'll get a better 1 ).
Hey Partsman what happened to the IC you were building using OE ICs? That Iidea was a good 1. Listen to Obe about the IC diverter fence angles, they don't want to cool anything but the core.
Any big changes for water temp w/ the cut shroud? The cooler the radiator the cooler everything behind it.
Enough info & the discovery theory kicks right in.
BTW all of you with an IRT, this tool is a quick, down & dirty way to find some valuable stats, get a delta & go for it - kind of deal. I wish I haden't broken mine ( on the good side I'll get a better 1 ).
Hey Partsman what happened to the IC you were building using OE ICs? That Iidea was a good 1. Listen to Obe about the IC diverter fence angles, they don't want to cool anything but the core.
BTW, at 80F ambient, my IATs were only 85F.
I forgot to grab the IRT from the shop last night, but i'll get it soon.
The IC is coming, i'm just trying to find some end tank material. I want it to be thin gauge, but I also want to be able to weld it.
The coolant temp is good news & 5f is is great news.
"The IC is coming, i'm just trying to find some end tank material. I want it to be thin gauge, but I also want to be able to weld it."
16g is what you want. It's very easy to tig & thin enough to work. When it won't work well 350f is about all you need to soften it back up. The old "Burnz-O-Matic" will do the job. If you have a tree stump you can make a dishing on it to form the pieces. Just remember to use light strokes for the finish work - with the hammer. It will also help to have differing hammer faces -sharp to almost flat. Metalsmithing 101.....
"The IC is coming, i'm just trying to find some end tank material. I want it to be thin gauge, but I also want to be able to weld it."
16g is what you want. It's very easy to tig & thin enough to work. When it won't work well 350f is about all you need to soften it back up. The old "Burnz-O-Matic" will do the job. If you have a tree stump you can make a dishing on it to form the pieces. Just remember to use light strokes for the finish work - with the hammer. It will also help to have differing hammer faces -sharp to almost flat. Metalsmithing 101.....
No doubt, herbie that a ram type setup would be very effective at catching air and even pressurizing the intake system. The cowl induction setup, like obe stated, uses the high pressure area at the base of the windshield and feeds it directly to the air cleaner assembly. I'm sure GM spent more than a few hours developing it, and the NASCAR guys still use it, so it must work fairly well.
Thanks, and thanks for posting. I'm not sure what that matting is, do you have a link?
Steve, I haven't had any differences in coolant temp at all. I ran up to West Warwick today and it was about 80F, my Autometer gauge as well as my ScanGauge showed normal temps.
BTW, at 80F ambient, my IATs were only 85F.
I forgot to grab the IRT from the shop last night, but i'll get it soon.
The IC is coming, i'm just trying to find some end tank material. I want it to be thin gauge, but I also want to be able to weld it.
Thanks, and thanks for posting. I'm not sure what that matting is, do you have a link?
Steve, I haven't had any differences in coolant temp at all. I ran up to West Warwick today and it was about 80F, my Autometer gauge as well as my ScanGauge showed normal temps.
BTW, at 80F ambient, my IATs were only 85F.
I forgot to grab the IRT from the shop last night, but i'll get it soon.
The IC is coming, i'm just trying to find some end tank material. I want it to be thin gauge, but I also want to be able to weld it.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
The coolant temp is good news & 5f is is great news.
"The IC is coming, i'm just trying to find some end tank material. I want it to be thin gauge, but I also want to be able to weld it."
16g is what you want. It's very easy to tig & thin enough to work. When it won't work well 350f is about all you need to soften it back up. The old "Burnz-O-Matic" will do the job. If you have a tree stump you can make a dishing on it to form the pieces. Just remember to use light strokes for the finish work - with the hammer. It will also help to have differing hammer faces -sharp to almost flat. Metalsmithing 101.....
"The IC is coming, i'm just trying to find some end tank material. I want it to be thin gauge, but I also want to be able to weld it."
16g is what you want. It's very easy to tig & thin enough to work. When it won't work well 350f is about all you need to soften it back up. The old "Burnz-O-Matic" will do the job. If you have a tree stump you can make a dishing on it to form the pieces. Just remember to use light strokes for the finish work - with the hammer. It will also help to have differing hammer faces -sharp to almost flat. Metalsmithing 101.....
My IMD, as well as DrPhil's, seem to be working quite well. They are very similar designs of the same thing, and definitely accomplish the task.
No doubt, herbie that a ram type setup would be very effective at catching air and even pressurizing the intake system. The cowl induction setup, like obe stated, uses the high pressure area at the base of the windshield and feeds it directly to the air cleaner assembly. I'm sure GM spent more than a few hours developing it, and the NASCAR guys still use it, so it must work fairly well.
Thanks, and thanks for posting. I'm not sure what that matting is, do you have a link?
Steve, I haven't had any differences in coolant temp at all. I ran up to West Warwick today and it was about 80F, my Autometer gauge as well as my ScanGauge showed normal temps.
BTW, at 80F ambient, my IATs were only 85F.
I forgot to grab the IRT from the shop last night, but i'll get it soon.
The IC is coming, i'm just trying to find some end tank material. I want it to be thin gauge, but I also want to be able to weld it.
Thanks, and thanks for posting. I'm not sure what that matting is, do you have a link?
Steve, I haven't had any differences in coolant temp at all. I ran up to West Warwick today and it was about 80F, my Autometer gauge as well as my ScanGauge showed normal temps.
BTW, at 80F ambient, my IATs were only 85F.
I forgot to grab the IRT from the shop last night, but i'll get it soon.
The IC is coming, i'm just trying to find some end tank material. I want it to be thin gauge, but I also want to be able to weld it.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
Don't you see my location, herbie?
Southeastern CT. Now you, on the other hand, failed to provide that information.
Last edited by Partsman; May 24, 2007 at 06:28 PM.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
The lower the intake air temp, the better.
do you mind giving me more details about it?
like... will it give you better throttle response? less heat soak? better fuel mileage?
like... will it give you better throttle response? less heat soak? better fuel mileage?
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
As you already know from this thread, the concept of the IMD is to expose the intake manifold to the air coming through the grille.
Like I said in the first post, it was DrPhil's statement that really drove it home.
Removing the upper part of the shroud actually serves two purposes, to cool the manifold, and to allow more air flow into the engine compartment. More air flow into the compact MINI engine compartment is a good thing.
As far as throttle response, this mod will really have no direct effect on that, but it will be more consistent because everything is cooler.
Less heat soak? Maybe, again because the parts that are effected by this mod are running cooler already, so the time it takes to heat soak will be longer.
I haven't noticed any increase or decrease in mileage. Feel free to ask anymore questions.
Last edited by Partsman; May 25, 2007 at 07:32 AM.
I'm bored and this thread is just going along too nice! SOooooooooooooo
Looking really good - except for those two rusty bolts -
. Must be driving M7 Peter crazy
. On second thought got any extras?
Not to minimize all of your hard work but have you (and Phil) ever just considered giving up you hoods.
Looking really good - except for those two rusty bolts -
. Must be driving M7 Peter crazy
. On second thought got any extras? Not to minimize all of your hard work but have you (and Phil) ever just considered giving up you hoods.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
I'm bored and this thread is just going along too nice! SOooooooooooooo
Looking really good - except for those two rusty bolts -
. Must be driving M7 Peter crazy
. On second thought got any extras?
Not to minimize all of your hard work but have you (and Phil) ever just considered giving up you hoods.
Looking really good - except for those two rusty bolts -
. Must be driving M7 Peter crazy
. On second thought got any extras? Not to minimize all of your hard work but have you (and Phil) ever just considered giving up you hoods.

Lose the hood? only if it were socially acceptable.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
Are there any more?
Last edited by Partsman; May 25, 2007 at 09:06 AM.
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Well, JIMINNI, there are a couple of other initializations floating around here that are indirectly related to the IMD mod. since they concern the air intake system.
There's FAD, which is my scoop/bonnet mod standing for Fresh Air Diverter, which takes air from the modified and larger mouthed Ram scoop and directs it to the airbox.
Theres the CAI, which is Cold Air Intake, which is pretty generic and varies by manufacturer, and whether the box has a top or not, and should be distinguished from the HAI, which is a Hot Air Intake, which is a filter not in a box.
The only other thing you should familiarize yourself with is the term approach which is the temperature difference between ambient and IAT, which stands for Intake Air Temperature, and is measured by a vehicle sensor at the manifold (we believe the sensor, a T-MAP, which stands for Temperature-Manifold Absolute Pressure measures temperature and pressure in the manifold).
There's FAD, which is my scoop/bonnet mod standing for Fresh Air Diverter, which takes air from the modified and larger mouthed Ram scoop and directs it to the airbox.
Theres the CAI, which is Cold Air Intake, which is pretty generic and varies by manufacturer, and whether the box has a top or not, and should be distinguished from the HAI, which is a Hot Air Intake, which is a filter not in a box.
The only other thing you should familiarize yourself with is the term approach which is the temperature difference between ambient and IAT, which stands for Intake Air Temperature, and is measured by a vehicle sensor at the manifold (we believe the sensor, a T-MAP, which stands for Temperature-Manifold Absolute Pressure measures temperature and pressure in the manifold).


