Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Project "Low IAT"-Intake Manifold Cooling

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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 07:17 PM
  #276  
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Operation low IAT is looking good. Today's numbers:

ambient: 93F (!)
airbox: 93F
IAT: 100F (a 7F approach!)

conditions: about 3 minutes of packed freeway 70mph cruising after some heavy redline stoplight accelerations to get to the freeway.

I have been playing with aerogel scraps lining the airbox...
 
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 08:51 PM
  #277  
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Nice Phil.

I am still seeing equal airbox/ambient temps, as well as single digit approaches with 85F ambients, all with no change in coolant temps(198F). I am also looking a little closer at my IATs under boost, I think my various DFIC mods are actually working. I hope to get them even lower with a welded diverter.
 

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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 05:36 PM
  #278  
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The IMD comes in semi-gloss black too...



 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 08:08 AM
  #279  
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Would a spray bar like you can install for the DFIC work directly on the intake to add additional cooling ? Looking at Partsman's IMD it popped into my mind...

Nice work by the way Partsman When can I order mine?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 09:17 AM
  #280  
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Originally Posted by 04SDmini
Would a spray bar like you can install for the DFIC work directly on the intake to add additional cooling ? Looking at Partsman's IMD it popped into my mind...

Nice work by the way Partsman When can I order mine?
Thanks very much.
When can you order? Good question. I'll have to get back to you on that.

Your idea with the spray bar is very interesting, and I think it would work well while under boost. While cruising, the IATs are already a single digit difference from ambient.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 06:44 PM
  #281  
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Along the lines of a water spray directed onto the intake manifold.....

I autocross frequently, which means I fight heatsoak frequently while trying to get things cooled back down as much as possible before the next run. I see the lowest IAT on the starting line if I spray water on both the charge air cooler (intercooler in common but technically incorrect useage )and intake manifold. Spraying just the charge air cooler doesn't get it as cold, to the tune of around 10degF. At a recent event I could get the charge cooler almost cold to the touch (spraying iced water in sunny, 80degF conditions) but the IAT would only get as low as 125-128F. Spraying both (different event, about 5F warmer ambient conditions) could get it down to 118 despite having less time to spray and not getting the charger cooler as cool to the touch.

Your results may vary, but I've found to be important to cool off as much of the fresh air system as possible. Water is cheap, and my handy dandy garden sprayer holds plenty since I don't need to spray tires anymore. The only downside is the clinking icecubes wake my wife up on autocross mornings as I empty the ice tray into the sprayer.

Scott
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 07:58 PM
  #282  
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Originally Posted by 90STX
Along the lines of a water spray directed onto the intake manifold.....

I autocross frequently, which means I fight heatsoak frequently while trying to get things cooled back down as much as possible before the next run. I see the lowest IAT on the starting line if I spray water on both the charge air cooler (intercooler in common but technically incorrect useage )and intake manifold. Spraying just the charge air cooler doesn't get it as cold, to the tune of around 10degF. At a recent event I could get the charge cooler almost cold to the touch (spraying iced water in sunny, 80degF conditions) but the IAT would only get as low as 125-128F. Spraying both (different event, about 5F warmer ambient conditions) could get it down to 118 despite having less time to spray and not getting the charger cooler as cool to the touch.

Your results may vary, but I've found to be important to cool off as much of the fresh air system as possible. Water is cheap, and my handy dandy garden sprayer holds plenty since I don't need to spray tires anymore. The only downside is the clinking icecubes wake my wife up on autocross mornings as I empty the ice tray into the sprayer.

Scott
90SM
Thanks for the post, very interesting. Seems I have more testing to do.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 08:28 PM
  #283  
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Originally Posted by 90STX
Along the lines of a water spray directed onto the intake manifold.....

I autocross frequently, which means I fight heatsoak frequently while trying to get things cooled back down as much as possible before the next run. I see the lowest IAT on the starting line if I spray water on both the charge air cooler (intercooler in common but technically incorrect useage )and intake manifold. Spraying just the charge air cooler doesn't get it as cold, to the tune of around 10degF. At a recent event I could get the charge cooler almost cold to the touch (spraying iced water in sunny, 80degF conditions) but the IAT would only get as low as 125-128F. Spraying both (different event, about 5F warmer ambient conditions) could get it down to 118 despite having less time to spray and not getting the charger cooler as cool to the touch.

Your results may vary, but I've found to be important to cool off as much of the fresh air system as possible. Water is cheap, and my handy dandy garden sprayer holds plenty since I don't need to spray tires anymore. The only downside is the clinking icecubes wake my wife up on autocross mornings as I empty the ice tray into the sprayer.

Scott
90SM
Good info Scott. I like that this thread is an open book of ideas and creativity.

Scott is taxing his IC, or CAC pretty hard, with repeated WOT surges at relatively low speeds. If this were done for long durations of time, this treatment would probably be the most extreme encountered. Good information guys!
 

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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 06:59 AM
  #284  
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Originally Posted by TonyB
Good info Scott. I like that this thread is an open book of ideas and creativity.
Most definitely, the only thing that would be better is if we were all sitting around bouncing ideas off each other.

Originally Posted by TonyB
Scott is taxing is IC, or CAC pretty hard, with repeated WOT surges at relatively low speeds. If this were done for long durations of time, this treatment would probably be the most extreme encountered. Good information guys!
I think having the shroud cut could benefit him just by the additional airflow into the engine compartment.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 10:10 AM
  #285  
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My observations in the last week include the following:
*if the car starts cold, and is run continuously, even if hard, cool IATs are to be expected. I believe this is the best case scenario.
*things get bad, and worse, once you stop. Stop for a long light, slow for a traffic accident, or --oh, no-- a soda and you're done for. If I could, I'd pop the bonnet every time I stopped. My IR temp readings (I need to make a full report to you all, but am readying to go on vacation, so it must wait, sorry) are extremely interesting. Especially over time...
*Needless to say, once the airbox, SC, IC and manifold get hot, it takes a LOT to get them cool again. At my recent track day I was spraying my IC down with water, but 90STX has a great idea for even better results.
* check this out: I measured the inside surface of the airbox nearest the exhaust manifold at 100F. The outside surface covered in Al clad insulation read 180F !! This, my friends, is what we're dealing with. The SC outlet horn, measured at the point that it is within 1/2" of the intake manifold measured 190F. The surface temp of the intake manifold nearest to this point was 130F. They are separated by my aerogel blanket mod. This is straight after a commute to work.

*Idea: how about an airbox inside the other airbox? If both were made from plastic with a 1/4 - 1/2" airgap between them, maybe some aerogel blanket? I placed some aerogel blanket over the surface nearest the exhaust but couldn't detect any significant difference (maybe 1-2F, but hard to say.)
 
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 11:57 AM
  #286  
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Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
My observations in the last week include the following:
*if the car starts cold, and is run continuously, even if hard, cool IATs are to be expected. I believe this is the best case scenario.
I tried this as well, the IATs were cooler longer, then stabilized to the normal 5 to 10 degree approach.
Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
*things get bad, and worse, once you stop. Stop for a long light, slow for a traffic accident, or --oh, no-- a soda and you're done for. If I could, I'd pop the bonnet every time I stopped. My IR temp readings (I need to make a full report to you all, but am readying to go on vacation, so it must wait, sorry) are extremely interesting. Especially over time...
I'd really like to see those readings.
You need hood vents, while mine aren't huge, they do help. After shut down, the heat pours out of them.
Have a safe trip.
Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
*Needless to say, once the airbox, SC, IC and manifold get hot, it takes a LOT to get them cool again. At my recent track day I was spraying my IC down with water, but 90STX has a great idea for even better results.
I'm looking into this as well.
Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
* check this out: I measured the inside surface of the airbox nearest the exhaust manifold at 100F. The outside surface covered in Al clad insulation read 180F !! This, my friends, is what we're dealing with. The SC outlet horn, measured at the point that it is within 1/2" of the intake manifold measured 190F. The surface temp of the intake manifold nearest to this point was 130F. They are separated by my aerogel blanket mod. This is straight after a commute to work.
Now these are some very interesting numbers.
An 80F difference from the inside to the outside of the box is quite a bit. Good job insulating.
A 60F difference in that tight little area where the SC outlet wraps around the intake is not bad. I need to get my IR on that to see what it reads. My IMD is a little different than yours in that area.

Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
*Idea: how about an airbox inside the other airbox? If both were made from plastic with a 1/4 - 1/2" airgap between them, maybe some aerogel blanket? I placed some aerogel blanket over the surface nearest the exhaust but couldn't detect any significant difference (maybe 1-2F, but hard to say.)
Now that's a pretty good idea, or maybe just some type of wall to block the heat from the header/engine on that side of the air box.
You could even funnel some air in between the wall and the box and out the cowl vent.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 12:01 PM
  #287  
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Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
If I could, I'd pop the bonnet every time I stopped.
HOOD VENTS
 
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 12:21 PM
  #288  
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Originally Posted by Bahamabart
HOOD VENTS
Let me get on that...
 
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 01:06 PM
  #289  
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I still don't like the position of the intake in the stock location: to the rear of the engine where warm/hot air circulates, and fairly near and above the header so when motionless, or not moving sufficiently fast, heat rises, imparting higher temps to components in that area, like the airbox.

I'm still a fan of the HAI or AGS location, forward all of this, with seemingly direct ambient airflow, and a shorter intake path for improved throttle response. More plumbing and material also means more opportunity for heat exposure. The HAI touches the exit horn, but with a piece of Aerogel between the HAI and exit horn, that should help matters.

For those who don't want to do louvers or hood vents, as I shared before, the cowl vents can vacate hot air quite well. Just removal of the rubber stripping around the cowl areas might be enough. I actually did that and the bonnet liner, and have well over 1 inch of space for hot air to rise and slip back, up and out through these vents... Between this and the Aerogel EX over the header, I no longer get the rush of heat when I pop open the bonnet. There is still a few inches of open space far back and below the radiator overflow tank for forward air motion to flow downward and under the car. There is also room on the sides of this Aerogel blanket. Between this and coating my header, and the cowl venting, the heat seen in the engine bay area is noticeably less, by subjective, and objective measurement (another thread).

I will be trimming the radiator shroud per this cool thread, and at the same time, putting a lip or frame around the radiator to help maintain pressure and directional flow there. Aiming ambient air at the IM seems like the way to go alright. An IMD will be in order of course. This thread is quite helpful. Ducting to blast ambient air on the SC has been attempted before, I believe by Webb, but I forgot the verdict.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 01:32 PM
  #290  
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Originally Posted by TonyB
I still don't like the position of the intake in the stock location: to the rear of the engine where warm/hot air circulates, and fairly near and above the header so when motionless, or not moving sufficiently fast, heat rises, imparting higher temps to components in that area, like the airbox.

I'm still a fan of the HAI or AGS location, forward all of this, with seemingly direct ambient airflow, and a shorter intake path for improved throttle response. More plumbing and material also means more opportunity for heat exposure. The HAI touches the exit horn, but with a piece of Aerogel between the HAI and exit horn, that should help matters.

For those who don't want to do louvers or hood vents, as I shared before, the cowl vents can vacate hot air quite well. Just removal of the rubber stripping around the cowl areas might be enough. I actually did that and the bonnet liner, and have well over 1 inch of space for hot air to rise and slip back, up and out through these vents... Between this and the Aerogel EX over the header, I no longer get the rush of heat when I pop open the bonnet. There is still a few inches of open space far back and below the radiator overflow tank for forward air motion to flow downward and under the car. There is also room on the sides of this Aerogel blanket. Between this and coating my header, and the cowl venting, the heat seen in the engine bay area is noticeably less, by subjective, and objective measurement (another thread).

I will be trimming the radiator shroud per this cool thread, and at the same time, putting a lip or frame around the radiator to help maintain pressure and directional flow there. Aiming ambient air at the IM seems like the way to go alright. An IMD will be in order of course. This thread is quite helpful. Ducting to blast ambient air on the SC has been attempted before, I believe by Webb, but I forgot the verdict.
All good points, Tony.

I would love to modify the intake setup to feed right from the front, into a sealed filter, then to the throttle body. The intake duct to the SC would have to be custom, of course.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 01:46 PM
  #291  
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Ah, you guys with the hood vents (do we have all 3 of you here at once? PARTSMAN, MSFITOY, and BahamaBart.) Yeh, yeh. I's still waiting for Joel's DFIC exit scoop to come to market, then while I'm hacking into my bonnet, I might as well make some engine bay vents...

btw, Dr Obnxs made a diverter for his HAI. I don't think he ever posted temps, etc, but it looked like it would work very well beside the IMD I could actually modify my FAD to direct fresh air to the HAI location on the TB...now you've got me thinking.
 

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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 03:00 PM
  #292  
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Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
Ah, you guys with the hood vents (do we have all 3 of you here at once? PARTSMAN, MSFITOY, and BahamaBart.) Yeh, yeh. I's still waiting for Joel's DFIC exit scoop to come to market, then while I'm hacking into my bonnet, I might as well make some engine bay vents...
Might as well, while you have the saw out. My car cools down a whole lot faster now with the vents.
Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
btw, Dr Obnxs made a diverter for his HAI. I don't think he ever posted temps, etc, but it looked like it would work very well beside the IMD I could actually modify my FAD to direct fresh air to the HAI location on the TB...now you've got me thinking.
I have tried the HAI in a couple different configurations, and while the throttle response improved, i'm not a big fan of an unsealed air filter.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 03:09 PM
  #293  
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who's the guy that carbon fibered up that nice wing? time for him to do a hood with all the above incorporated .
 
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 04:25 PM
  #294  
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Originally Posted by herbie hind
who's the guy that carbon fibered up that nice wing? time for him to do a hood with all the above incorporated .
I do believe that is carbonized, and interestingly enough, 1FSTMINI is selling a carbon fiber hood on here...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=103172
...the guy that's fabbing my bonnet and air box scoops would be able to fix it. But I can't get into that now, too much other stuff going on.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 08:13 AM
  #295  
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Originally Posted by 90STX
Along the lines of a water spray directed onto the intake manifold.....

I autocross frequently, which means I fight heatsoak frequently while trying to get things cooled back down as much as possible before the next run. I see the lowest IAT on the starting line if I spray water on both the charge air cooler (intercooler in common but technically incorrect useage )and intake manifold. Spraying just the charge air cooler doesn't get it as cold, to the tune of around 10degF. At a recent event I could get the charge cooler almost cold to the touch (spraying iced water in sunny, 80degF conditions) but the IAT would only get as low as 125-128F. Spraying both (different event, about 5F warmer ambient conditions) could get it down to 118 despite having less time to spray and not getting the charger cooler as cool to the touch.

Your results may vary, but I've found to be important to cool off as much of the fresh air system as possible. Water is cheap, and my handy dandy garden sprayer holds plenty since I don't need to spray tires anymore. The only downside is the clinking icecubes wake my wife up on autocross mornings as I empty the ice tray into the sprayer.

Scott
90SM
Same results here. Spray them both and spray them a lot.
I've pulled in after a run with people coming to the car thinking I've sprung a leak with the steam rolling out of the scoop.

Maybe I got a little carried away
 
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 05:58 PM
  #296  
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Partsman Its all your fault, I just PMed 1 fstmini . Like I don't have enough on my plate A, composites air box (ask Bart), a full splitter, an all out rear seat delete/ floor, some engine work, brakes work, house work, wife work.... and a full time job .Ho! did I mention: Sun roof delete with CF insert.( priority as there is 40+ lbs of glass and steel up there. Thanks also to Herbie hind who started it by mentioning my wing, apreciate the compliment . I made a little thing I call "Hot air extractor" because I didnt Have the ***** to cut into the bonnet, (pics in my gallery) Works wonders
 
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 06:13 PM
  #297  
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Originally Posted by carbonized
Partsman Its all your fault, I just PMed 1 fstmini . Like I don't have enough on my plate A, composites air box (ask Bart), a full splitter, an all out rear seat delete/ floor, some engine work, brakes work, house work, wife work.... and a full time job .Ho! did I mention: Sun roof delete with CF insert.( priority as there is 40+ lbs of glass and steel up there. Thanks also to Herbie hind who started it by mentioning my wing, apreciate the compliment . I made a little thing I call "Hot air extractor" because I didnt Have the ***** to cut into the bonnet, (pics in my gallery) Works wonders
Hey, at least I know when to just say no to more projects.
Here's some of my list...
welded DFIC diverter, custom bonnet scoop, custom air box scoop, electric water pump, direct flow stock intercooler, Extrude Honed cylinder head.
I still have to run up to my dealer and grab a crank pulley to install before I head down to LDG.
PLUS, I also have wife work, a five year old, a two month old, a Rott and a full time job.

So get that hood and get to work! Funny thing is 1FSTMINI is close enough for me to pick it up, it took some real will power NOT to contact him.
I may need counseling.
 

Last edited by Partsman; Jun 6, 2007 at 06:17 PM.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 06:43 PM
  #298  
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Originally Posted by carbonized
Partsman Its all your fault, I just PMed 1 fstmini . Like I don't have enough on my plate A, composites air box (ask Bart), a full splitter, an all out rear seat delete/ floor, some engine work, brakes work, house work, wife work.... and a full time job .Ho! did I mention: Sun roof delete with CF insert.( priority as there is 40+ lbs of glass and steel up there. Thanks also to Herbie hind who started it by mentioning my wing, apreciate the compliment . I made a little thing I call "Hot air extractor" because I didnt Have the ***** to cut into the bonnet, (pics in my gallery) Works wonders
yes !! i couldn't remember who made that vent thing . could you post it again? i'd like another look at that .
 
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 07:41 AM
  #299  
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Originally Posted by carbonized
I made a little thing I call "Hot air extractor" because I didnt Have the ***** to cut into the bonnet, (pics in my gallery) Works wonders
If you don't get busy on the TWO protoytpe boxes you will be missing the thingy in the middle of the two ***** your missing .

As to the carbon fiber sunroof project - just remove the sunroof, put some plastic baggies and duck tape in the car (in case it rains) and your done! Besides it will be lighter than anything you come up with. Now that this project is DONE - you have plenty of time.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 07:50 AM
  #300  
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Originally Posted by carbonized
Partsman Its all your fault, I just PMed 1 fstmini . Like I don't have enough on my plate A, composites air box (ask Bart), a full splitter, an all out rear seat delete/ floor, some engine work, brakes work, house work, wife work.... and a full time job .Ho! did I mention: Sun roof delete with CF insert.( priority as there is 40+ lbs of glass and steel up there. Thanks also to Herbie hind who started it by mentioning my wing, apreciate the compliment . I made a little thing I call "Hot air extractor" because I didnt Have the ***** to cut into the bonnet, (pics in my gallery) Works wonders
You have a FIRM buyer for the sunroof CF insert...please do it...
 
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