Drivetrain Project "Low IAT"-Intake Manifold Cooling
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Operation low IAT is looking good. Today's numbers:
ambient: 93F (!)
airbox: 93F
IAT: 100F (a 7F approach!)
conditions: about 3 minutes of packed freeway 70mph cruising after some heavy redline stoplight accelerations to get to the freeway.
I have been playing with aerogel scraps lining the airbox...
ambient: 93F (!)
airbox: 93F
IAT: 100F (a 7F approach!)
conditions: about 3 minutes of packed freeway 70mph cruising after some heavy redline stoplight accelerations to get to the freeway.
I have been playing with aerogel scraps lining the airbox...
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
Nice Phil.
I am still seeing equal airbox/ambient temps, as well as single digit approaches with 85F ambients, all with no change in coolant temps(198F). I am also looking a little closer at my IATs under boost, I think my various DFIC mods are actually working. I hope to get them even lower with a welded diverter.
I am still seeing equal airbox/ambient temps, as well as single digit approaches with 85F ambients, all with no change in coolant temps(198F). I am also looking a little closer at my IATs under boost, I think my various DFIC mods are actually working. I hope to get them even lower with a welded diverter.
Last edited by Partsman; Jun 1, 2007 at 08:59 PM.
Would a spray bar like you can install for the DFIC work directly on the intake to add additional cooling ? Looking at Partsman's IMD it popped into my mind...
Nice work by the way Partsman
When can I order mine?
Nice work by the way Partsman
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
When can you order? Good question. I'll have to get back to you on that.
Your idea with the spray bar is very interesting, and I think it would work well while under boost. While cruising, the IATs are already a single digit difference from ambient.
Along the lines of a water spray directed onto the intake manifold.....
I autocross frequently, which means I fight heatsoak frequently while trying to get things cooled back down as much as possible before the next run. I see the lowest IAT on the starting line if I spray water on both the charge air cooler (intercooler in common but technically incorrect useage
)and intake manifold. Spraying just the charge air cooler doesn't get it as cold, to the tune of around 10degF. At a recent event I could get the charge cooler almost cold to the touch (spraying iced water in sunny, 80degF conditions) but the IAT would only get as low as 125-128F. Spraying both (different event, about 5F warmer ambient conditions) could get it down to 118 despite having less time to spray and not getting the charger cooler as cool to the touch.
Your results may vary, but I've found to be important to cool off as much of the fresh air system as possible. Water is cheap, and my handy dandy garden sprayer holds plenty since I don't need to spray tires anymore. The only downside is the clinking icecubes wake my wife up on autocross mornings as I empty the ice tray into the sprayer.
Scott
90SM
I autocross frequently, which means I fight heatsoak frequently while trying to get things cooled back down as much as possible before the next run. I see the lowest IAT on the starting line if I spray water on both the charge air cooler (intercooler in common but technically incorrect useage
)and intake manifold. Spraying just the charge air cooler doesn't get it as cold, to the tune of around 10degF. At a recent event I could get the charge cooler almost cold to the touch (spraying iced water in sunny, 80degF conditions) but the IAT would only get as low as 125-128F. Spraying both (different event, about 5F warmer ambient conditions) could get it down to 118 despite having less time to spray and not getting the charger cooler as cool to the touch.Your results may vary, but I've found to be important to cool off as much of the fresh air system as possible. Water is cheap, and my handy dandy garden sprayer holds plenty since I don't need to spray tires anymore. The only downside is the clinking icecubes wake my wife up on autocross mornings as I empty the ice tray into the sprayer.
Scott
90SM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
Along the lines of a water spray directed onto the intake manifold.....
I autocross frequently, which means I fight heatsoak frequently while trying to get things cooled back down as much as possible before the next run. I see the lowest IAT on the starting line if I spray water on both the charge air cooler (intercooler in common but technically incorrect useage
)and intake manifold. Spraying just the charge air cooler doesn't get it as cold, to the tune of around 10degF. At a recent event I could get the charge cooler almost cold to the touch (spraying iced water in sunny, 80degF conditions) but the IAT would only get as low as 125-128F. Spraying both (different event, about 5F warmer ambient conditions) could get it down to 118 despite having less time to spray and not getting the charger cooler as cool to the touch.
Your results may vary, but I've found to be important to cool off as much of the fresh air system as possible. Water is cheap, and my handy dandy garden sprayer holds plenty since I don't need to spray tires anymore. The only downside is the clinking icecubes wake my wife up on autocross mornings as I empty the ice tray into the sprayer.
Scott
90SM
I autocross frequently, which means I fight heatsoak frequently while trying to get things cooled back down as much as possible before the next run. I see the lowest IAT on the starting line if I spray water on both the charge air cooler (intercooler in common but technically incorrect useage
)and intake manifold. Spraying just the charge air cooler doesn't get it as cold, to the tune of around 10degF. At a recent event I could get the charge cooler almost cold to the touch (spraying iced water in sunny, 80degF conditions) but the IAT would only get as low as 125-128F. Spraying both (different event, about 5F warmer ambient conditions) could get it down to 118 despite having less time to spray and not getting the charger cooler as cool to the touch.Your results may vary, but I've found to be important to cool off as much of the fresh air system as possible. Water is cheap, and my handy dandy garden sprayer holds plenty since I don't need to spray tires anymore. The only downside is the clinking icecubes wake my wife up on autocross mornings as I empty the ice tray into the sprayer.
Scott
90SM
Along the lines of a water spray directed onto the intake manifold.....
I autocross frequently, which means I fight heatsoak frequently while trying to get things cooled back down as much as possible before the next run. I see the lowest IAT on the starting line if I spray water on both the charge air cooler (intercooler in common but technically incorrect useage
)and intake manifold. Spraying just the charge air cooler doesn't get it as cold, to the tune of around 10degF. At a recent event I could get the charge cooler almost cold to the touch (spraying iced water in sunny, 80degF conditions) but the IAT would only get as low as 125-128F. Spraying both (different event, about 5F warmer ambient conditions) could get it down to 118 despite having less time to spray and not getting the charger cooler as cool to the touch.
Your results may vary, but I've found to be important to cool off as much of the fresh air system as possible. Water is cheap, and my handy dandy garden sprayer holds plenty since I don't need to spray tires anymore. The only downside is the clinking icecubes wake my wife up on autocross mornings as I empty the ice tray into the sprayer.
Scott
90SM
I autocross frequently, which means I fight heatsoak frequently while trying to get things cooled back down as much as possible before the next run. I see the lowest IAT on the starting line if I spray water on both the charge air cooler (intercooler in common but technically incorrect useage
)and intake manifold. Spraying just the charge air cooler doesn't get it as cold, to the tune of around 10degF. At a recent event I could get the charge cooler almost cold to the touch (spraying iced water in sunny, 80degF conditions) but the IAT would only get as low as 125-128F. Spraying both (different event, about 5F warmer ambient conditions) could get it down to 118 despite having less time to spray and not getting the charger cooler as cool to the touch.Your results may vary, but I've found to be important to cool off as much of the fresh air system as possible. Water is cheap, and my handy dandy garden sprayer holds plenty since I don't need to spray tires anymore. The only downside is the clinking icecubes wake my wife up on autocross mornings as I empty the ice tray into the sprayer.
Scott
90SM
Scott is taxing his IC, or CAC pretty hard, with repeated WOT surges at relatively low speeds. If this were done for long durations of time, this treatment would probably be the most extreme encountered. Good information guys!
Last edited by TonyB; Jun 5, 2007 at 07:17 AM.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
Originally Posted by TonyB
Scott is taxing is IC, or CAC pretty hard, with repeated WOT surges at relatively low speeds. If this were done for long durations of time, this treatment would probably be the most extreme encountered. Good information guys!
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
My observations in the last week include the following:
*if the car starts cold, and is run continuously, even if hard, cool IATs are to be expected. I believe this is the best case scenario.
*things get bad, and worse, once you stop. Stop for a long light, slow for a traffic accident, or --oh, no-- a soda and you're done for. If I could, I'd pop the bonnet every time I stopped. My IR temp readings (I need to make a full report to you all, but am readying to go on vacation, so it must wait, sorry) are extremely interesting. Especially over time...
*Needless to say, once the airbox, SC, IC and manifold get hot, it takes a LOT to get them cool again. At my recent track day I was spraying my IC down with water, but 90STX has a great idea for even better results.
* check this out: I measured the inside surface of the airbox nearest the exhaust manifold at 100F. The outside surface covered in Al clad insulation read 180F !! This, my friends, is what we're dealing with. The SC outlet horn, measured at the point that it is within 1/2" of the intake manifold measured 190F. The surface temp of the intake manifold nearest to this point was 130F. They are separated by my aerogel blanket mod. This is straight after a commute to work.
*Idea: how about an airbox inside the other airbox? If both were made from plastic with a 1/4 - 1/2" airgap between them, maybe some aerogel blanket? I placed some aerogel blanket over the surface nearest the exhaust but couldn't detect any significant difference (maybe 1-2F, but hard to say.)
*if the car starts cold, and is run continuously, even if hard, cool IATs are to be expected. I believe this is the best case scenario.
*things get bad, and worse, once you stop. Stop for a long light, slow for a traffic accident, or --oh, no-- a soda and you're done for. If I could, I'd pop the bonnet every time I stopped. My IR temp readings (I need to make a full report to you all, but am readying to go on vacation, so it must wait, sorry) are extremely interesting. Especially over time...
*Needless to say, once the airbox, SC, IC and manifold get hot, it takes a LOT to get them cool again. At my recent track day I was spraying my IC down with water, but 90STX has a great idea for even better results.
* check this out: I measured the inside surface of the airbox nearest the exhaust manifold at 100F. The outside surface covered in Al clad insulation read 180F !! This, my friends, is what we're dealing with. The SC outlet horn, measured at the point that it is within 1/2" of the intake manifold measured 190F. The surface temp of the intake manifold nearest to this point was 130F. They are separated by my aerogel blanket mod. This is straight after a commute to work.
*Idea: how about an airbox inside the other airbox? If both were made from plastic with a 1/4 - 1/2" airgap between them, maybe some aerogel blanket? I placed some aerogel blanket over the surface nearest the exhaust but couldn't detect any significant difference (maybe 1-2F, but hard to say.)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI

Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
*things get bad, and worse, once you stop. Stop for a long light, slow for a traffic accident, or --oh, no-- a soda and you're done for. If I could, I'd pop the bonnet every time I stopped. My IR temp readings (I need to make a full report to you all, but am readying to go on vacation, so it must wait, sorry) are extremely interesting. Especially over time...
You need hood vents, while mine aren't huge, they do help. After shut down, the heat pours out of them.
Have a safe trip.
Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
*Needless to say, once the airbox, SC, IC and manifold get hot, it takes a LOT to get them cool again. At my recent track day I was spraying my IC down with water, but 90STX has a great idea for even better results.
Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
* check this out: I measured the inside surface of the airbox nearest the exhaust manifold at 100F. The outside surface covered in Al clad insulation read 180F !! This, my friends, is what we're dealing with. The SC outlet horn, measured at the point that it is within 1/2" of the intake manifold measured 190F. The surface temp of the intake manifold nearest to this point was 130F. They are separated by my aerogel blanket mod. This is straight after a commute to work.
An 80F difference from the inside to the outside of the box is quite a bit. Good job insulating.
A 60F difference in that tight little area where the SC outlet wraps around the intake is not bad. I need to get my IR on that to see what it reads. My IMD is a little different than yours in that area.
Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
*Idea: how about an airbox inside the other airbox? If both were made from plastic with a 1/4 - 1/2" airgap between them, maybe some aerogel blanket? I placed some aerogel blanket over the surface nearest the exhaust but couldn't detect any significant difference (maybe 1-2F, but hard to say.)
You could even funnel some air in between the wall and the box and out the cowl vent.
I still don't like the position of the intake in the stock location: to the rear of the engine where warm/hot air circulates, and fairly near and above the header so when motionless, or not moving sufficiently fast, heat rises, imparting higher temps to components in that area, like the airbox.
I'm still a fan of the HAI or AGS location, forward all of this, with seemingly direct ambient airflow, and a shorter intake path for improved throttle response. More plumbing and material also means more opportunity for heat exposure. The HAI touches the exit horn, but with a piece of Aerogel between the HAI and exit horn, that should help matters.
For those who don't want to do louvers or hood vents, as I shared before, the cowl vents can vacate hot air quite well. Just removal of the rubber stripping around the cowl areas might be enough. I actually did that and the bonnet liner, and have well over 1 inch of space for hot air to rise and slip back, up and out through these vents... Between this and the Aerogel EX over the header, I no longer get the rush of heat when I pop open the bonnet. There is still a few inches of open space far back and below the radiator overflow tank for forward air motion to flow downward and under the car. There is also room on the sides of this Aerogel blanket. Between this and coating my header, and the cowl venting, the heat seen in the engine bay area is noticeably less, by subjective, and objective measurement (another thread).
I will be trimming the radiator shroud per this cool thread, and at the same time, putting a lip or frame around the radiator to help maintain pressure and directional flow there. Aiming ambient air at the IM seems like the way to go alright. An IMD will be in order of course. This thread is quite helpful. Ducting to blast ambient air on the SC has been attempted before, I believe by Webb, but I forgot the verdict.
I'm still a fan of the HAI or AGS location, forward all of this, with seemingly direct ambient airflow, and a shorter intake path for improved throttle response. More plumbing and material also means more opportunity for heat exposure. The HAI touches the exit horn, but with a piece of Aerogel between the HAI and exit horn, that should help matters.
For those who don't want to do louvers or hood vents, as I shared before, the cowl vents can vacate hot air quite well. Just removal of the rubber stripping around the cowl areas might be enough. I actually did that and the bonnet liner, and have well over 1 inch of space for hot air to rise and slip back, up and out through these vents... Between this and the Aerogel EX over the header, I no longer get the rush of heat when I pop open the bonnet. There is still a few inches of open space far back and below the radiator overflow tank for forward air motion to flow downward and under the car. There is also room on the sides of this Aerogel blanket. Between this and coating my header, and the cowl venting, the heat seen in the engine bay area is noticeably less, by subjective, and objective measurement (another thread).
I will be trimming the radiator shroud per this cool thread, and at the same time, putting a lip or frame around the radiator to help maintain pressure and directional flow there. Aiming ambient air at the IM seems like the way to go alright. An IMD will be in order of course. This thread is quite helpful. Ducting to blast ambient air on the SC has been attempted before, I believe by Webb, but I forgot the verdict.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
I still don't like the position of the intake in the stock location: to the rear of the engine where warm/hot air circulates, and fairly near and above the header so when motionless, or not moving sufficiently fast, heat rises, imparting higher temps to components in that area, like the airbox.
I'm still a fan of the HAI or AGS location, forward all of this, with seemingly direct ambient airflow, and a shorter intake path for improved throttle response. More plumbing and material also means more opportunity for heat exposure. The HAI touches the exit horn, but with a piece of Aerogel between the HAI and exit horn, that should help matters.
For those who don't want to do louvers or hood vents, as I shared before, the cowl vents can vacate hot air quite well. Just removal of the rubber stripping around the cowl areas might be enough. I actually did that and the bonnet liner, and have well over 1 inch of space for hot air to rise and slip back, up and out through these vents... Between this and the Aerogel EX over the header, I no longer get the rush of heat when I pop open the bonnet. There is still a few inches of open space far back and below the radiator overflow tank for forward air motion to flow downward and under the car. There is also room on the sides of this Aerogel blanket. Between this and coating my header, and the cowl venting, the heat seen in the engine bay area is noticeably less, by subjective, and objective measurement (another thread).
I will be trimming the radiator shroud per this cool thread, and at the same time, putting a lip or frame around the radiator to help maintain pressure and directional flow there. Aiming ambient air at the IM seems like the way to go alright. An IMD will be in order of course. This thread is quite helpful. Ducting to blast ambient air on the SC has been attempted before, I believe by Webb, but I forgot the verdict.
I'm still a fan of the HAI or AGS location, forward all of this, with seemingly direct ambient airflow, and a shorter intake path for improved throttle response. More plumbing and material also means more opportunity for heat exposure. The HAI touches the exit horn, but with a piece of Aerogel between the HAI and exit horn, that should help matters.
For those who don't want to do louvers or hood vents, as I shared before, the cowl vents can vacate hot air quite well. Just removal of the rubber stripping around the cowl areas might be enough. I actually did that and the bonnet liner, and have well over 1 inch of space for hot air to rise and slip back, up and out through these vents... Between this and the Aerogel EX over the header, I no longer get the rush of heat when I pop open the bonnet. There is still a few inches of open space far back and below the radiator overflow tank for forward air motion to flow downward and under the car. There is also room on the sides of this Aerogel blanket. Between this and coating my header, and the cowl venting, the heat seen in the engine bay area is noticeably less, by subjective, and objective measurement (another thread).
I will be trimming the radiator shroud per this cool thread, and at the same time, putting a lip or frame around the radiator to help maintain pressure and directional flow there. Aiming ambient air at the IM seems like the way to go alright. An IMD will be in order of course. This thread is quite helpful. Ducting to blast ambient air on the SC has been attempted before, I believe by Webb, but I forgot the verdict.
I would love to modify the intake setup to feed right from the front, into a sealed filter, then to the throttle body. The intake duct to the SC would have to be custom, of course.
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Ah, you guys with the hood vents (do we have all 3 of you here at once? PARTSMAN, MSFITOY, and BahamaBart.) Yeh, yeh. I's still waiting for Joel's DFIC exit scoop to come to market, then while I'm hacking into my bonnet, I might as well make some engine bay vents...
btw, Dr Obnxs made a diverter for his HAI. I don't think he ever posted temps, etc, but it looked like it would work very well beside the IMD
I could actually modify my FAD to direct fresh air to the HAI location on the TB...now you've got me thinking.
btw, Dr Obnxs made a diverter for his HAI. I don't think he ever posted temps, etc, but it looked like it would work very well beside the IMD
I could actually modify my FAD to direct fresh air to the HAI location on the TB...now you've got me thinking.
Last edited by DrPhilGandini; Jun 5, 2007 at 01:51 PM.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
Ah, you guys with the hood vents (do we have all 3 of you here at once? PARTSMAN, MSFITOY, and BahamaBart.) Yeh, yeh. I's still waiting for Joel's DFIC exit scoop to come to market, then while I'm hacking into my bonnet, I might as well make some engine bay vents...
Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
btw, Dr Obnxs made a diverter for his HAI. I don't think he ever posted temps, etc, but it looked like it would work very well beside the IMD
I could actually modify my FAD to direct fresh air to the HAI location on the TB...now you've got me thinking.
I could actually modify my FAD to direct fresh air to the HAI location on the TB...now you've got me thinking.Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=103172
...the guy that's fabbing my bonnet and air box scoops would be able to fix it. But I can't get into that now, too much other stuff going on.
Along the lines of a water spray directed onto the intake manifold.....
I autocross frequently, which means I fight heatsoak frequently while trying to get things cooled back down as much as possible before the next run. I see the lowest IAT on the starting line if I spray water on both the charge air cooler (intercooler in common but technically incorrect useage
)and intake manifold. Spraying just the charge air cooler doesn't get it as cold, to the tune of around 10degF. At a recent event I could get the charge cooler almost cold to the touch (spraying iced water in sunny, 80degF conditions) but the IAT would only get as low as 125-128F. Spraying both (different event, about 5F warmer ambient conditions) could get it down to 118 despite having less time to spray and not getting the charger cooler as cool to the touch.
Your results may vary, but I've found to be important to cool off as much of the fresh air system as possible. Water is cheap, and my handy dandy garden sprayer holds plenty since I don't need to spray tires anymore. The only downside is the clinking icecubes wake my wife up on autocross mornings as I empty the ice tray into the sprayer.
Scott
90SM
I autocross frequently, which means I fight heatsoak frequently while trying to get things cooled back down as much as possible before the next run. I see the lowest IAT on the starting line if I spray water on both the charge air cooler (intercooler in common but technically incorrect useage
)and intake manifold. Spraying just the charge air cooler doesn't get it as cold, to the tune of around 10degF. At a recent event I could get the charge cooler almost cold to the touch (spraying iced water in sunny, 80degF conditions) but the IAT would only get as low as 125-128F. Spraying both (different event, about 5F warmer ambient conditions) could get it down to 118 despite having less time to spray and not getting the charger cooler as cool to the touch.Your results may vary, but I've found to be important to cool off as much of the fresh air system as possible. Water is cheap, and my handy dandy garden sprayer holds plenty since I don't need to spray tires anymore. The only downside is the clinking icecubes wake my wife up on autocross mornings as I empty the ice tray into the sprayer.
Scott
90SM
I've pulled in after a run with people coming to the car thinking I've sprung a leak with the steam rolling out of the scoop

.Maybe I got a little carried away
Partsman Its all your fault, I just PMed 1 fstmini
. Like I don't have enough on my plate
A, composites air box (ask Bart), a full splitter, an all out rear seat delete/ floor, some engine work, brakes work, house work, wife work.... and a full time job
.Ho! did I mention: Sun roof delete with CF insert.( priority as there is 40+ lbs of glass and steel up there. Thanks also to Herbie hind who started it by mentioning my wing, apreciate the compliment
. I made a little thing I call "Hot air extractor" because I didnt Have the ***** to cut into the bonnet, (pics in my gallery) Works wonders
. Like I don't have enough on my plate
A, composites air box (ask Bart), a full splitter, an all out rear seat delete/ floor, some engine work, brakes work, house work, wife work.... and a full time job
.Ho! did I mention: Sun roof delete with CF insert.( priority as there is 40+ lbs of glass and steel up there. Thanks also to Herbie hind who started it by mentioning my wing, apreciate the compliment
. I made a little thing I call "Hot air extractor" because I didnt Have the ***** to cut into the bonnet, (pics in my gallery) Works wonders
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,989
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI
Partsman Its all your fault, I just PMed 1 fstmini
. Like I don't have enough on my plate
A, composites air box (ask Bart), a full splitter, an all out rear seat delete/ floor, some engine work, brakes work, house work, wife work.... and a full time job
.Ho! did I mention: Sun roof delete with CF insert.( priority as there is 40+ lbs of glass and steel up there. Thanks also to Herbie hind who started it by mentioning my wing, apreciate the compliment
. I made a little thing I call "Hot air extractor" because I didnt Have the ***** to cut into the bonnet, (pics in my gallery) Works wonders
. Like I don't have enough on my plate
A, composites air box (ask Bart), a full splitter, an all out rear seat delete/ floor, some engine work, brakes work, house work, wife work.... and a full time job
.Ho! did I mention: Sun roof delete with CF insert.( priority as there is 40+ lbs of glass and steel up there. Thanks also to Herbie hind who started it by mentioning my wing, apreciate the compliment
. I made a little thing I call "Hot air extractor" because I didnt Have the ***** to cut into the bonnet, (pics in my gallery) Works wonders

Here's some of my list...
welded DFIC diverter, custom bonnet scoop, custom air box scoop, electric water pump, direct flow stock intercooler, Extrude Honed cylinder head.
I still have to run up to my dealer and grab a crank pulley to install before I head down to LDG.

PLUS, I also have wife work, a five year old, a two month old, a Rott and a full time job.

So get that hood and get to work!
Funny thing is 1FSTMINI is close enough for me to pick it up, it took some real will power NOT to contact him. I may need counseling.
Last edited by Partsman; Jun 6, 2007 at 06:17 PM.
Partsman Its all your fault, I just PMed 1 fstmini
. Like I don't have enough on my plate
A, composites air box (ask Bart), a full splitter, an all out rear seat delete/ floor, some engine work, brakes work, house work, wife work.... and a full time job
.Ho! did I mention: Sun roof delete with CF insert.( priority as there is 40+ lbs of glass and steel up there. Thanks also to Herbie hind who started it by mentioning my wing, apreciate the compliment
. I made a little thing I call "Hot air extractor" because I didnt Have the ***** to cut into the bonnet, (pics in my gallery) Works wonders
. Like I don't have enough on my plate
A, composites air box (ask Bart), a full splitter, an all out rear seat delete/ floor, some engine work, brakes work, house work, wife work.... and a full time job
.Ho! did I mention: Sun roof delete with CF insert.( priority as there is 40+ lbs of glass and steel up there. Thanks also to Herbie hind who started it by mentioning my wing, apreciate the compliment
. I made a little thing I call "Hot air extractor" because I didnt Have the ***** to cut into the bonnet, (pics in my gallery) Works wonders
.As to the carbon fiber sunroof project - just remove the sunroof, put some plastic baggies and duck tape in the car (in case it rains) and your done!
Besides it will be lighter than anything you come up with.
Now that this project is DONE - you have plenty of time.
Partsman Its all your fault, I just PMed 1 fstmini
. Like I don't have enough on my plate
A, composites air box (ask Bart), a full splitter, an all out rear seat delete/ floor, some engine work, brakes work, house work, wife work.... and a full time job
.Ho! did I mention: Sun roof delete with CF insert.( priority as there is 40+ lbs of glass and steel up there. Thanks also to Herbie hind who started it by mentioning my wing, apreciate the compliment
. I made a little thing I call "Hot air extractor" because I didnt Have the ***** to cut into the bonnet, (pics in my gallery) Works wonders
. Like I don't have enough on my plate
A, composites air box (ask Bart), a full splitter, an all out rear seat delete/ floor, some engine work, brakes work, house work, wife work.... and a full time job
.Ho! did I mention: Sun roof delete with CF insert.( priority as there is 40+ lbs of glass and steel up there. Thanks also to Herbie hind who started it by mentioning my wing, apreciate the compliment
. I made a little thing I call "Hot air extractor" because I didnt Have the ***** to cut into the bonnet, (pics in my gallery) Works wonders







