Drivetrain Electrical Oil Pressure Gauge install - help needed
Electrical Oil Pressure Gauge install - help needed
Ok. so I've searched high and low for information on how to install oil pressure gauges. (I just bought a XTRI Xline electrical pressure gauge). So far the best information I can find comes from Steebo777
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=41028
It seems that I'll need a "T" fitting and the picture I have found from another post is:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...5&d=1114650268
The sensor which is included with the STRI guage looks like what in the picture except I have a male fitting instead of a female fitting. Also, I plan to get an 18" steel braided line (as recommened by Steebo777) which will go between the "T" and the sensor (connected on the right side in the above picture) and to the remote mount.
Ok here are my questions:
1) What is the crush fitting on the left side for? (do I need it for the guage that I have). What does this connect to? I'm assuming I don't need this for my electrical gauge.
2) According to Steebo777 how-to I'll need to cut some wires and extend them. How long to you need to extend the wires? the how-to required 24" of wire so do I extend this wire that much? is it just one wire which needs extending? Is it safe to use crimp style attachments instead of Soldering?
3) Anyone know if you can get steel braided lines from PepBoys?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=41028
It seems that I'll need a "T" fitting and the picture I have found from another post is:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...5&d=1114650268
The sensor which is included with the STRI guage looks like what in the picture except I have a male fitting instead of a female fitting. Also, I plan to get an 18" steel braided line (as recommened by Steebo777) which will go between the "T" and the sensor (connected on the right side in the above picture) and to the remote mount.
Ok here are my questions:
1) What is the crush fitting on the left side for? (do I need it for the guage that I have). What does this connect to? I'm assuming I don't need this for my electrical gauge.
2) According to Steebo777 how-to I'll need to cut some wires and extend them. How long to you need to extend the wires? the how-to required 24" of wire so do I extend this wire that much? is it just one wire which needs extending? Is it safe to use crimp style attachments instead of Soldering?
3) Anyone know if you can get steel braided lines from PepBoys?
Last edited by supercliff; May 3, 2007 at 01:04 PM.

You can use this adapter right in the stock location, and screw the factory sender in the female end. You can't see it in this pic, but the top of this adapter is threaded (3/8" pipe thread) to accept the stock sender. The little threaded holes on the sides (1/8" pipe thread) are where you can screw in your gauge sender. There are mutiple 1/8" pipe thread holes in the adapter so one of them will more than likely end up being fairly easy to access when the adapter is tight.
The fitting on the left, I believe, is for oil temp and the one on the right is a very large pressure sender.
If you are only running the stock sender and your gauge sender, then use pipe plugs for the other holes.
As for cutting wires, that would only be needed if doing a remote mount sender. If you don't track your car, then leave everything down in the stock location. The 3/8" pipe thread going into the block is more than strong enough to support the stock sender as well as your gauge sender for street driving, just make sure all the connections are tight.
That's an interesting adapter. Where can you get something like that? I wonder how well an oil temp sender would do in that location as it's out of the flow path. That adapter is definitely the way to go if you want an oil pressure gauge.
It is quite a useful part, I ended up making mine with a 3/8" pipe thread female tee. I believe Helix sells the adapter.
The stock sender is number 8 in this pic...
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that's all good ; but if you want ease of installation plus the advantage of an oil cooler then just goto mini madness and get their oil cooler kit for around 500.00 and the adapter included will have the npt fitting plugs right there for ya . best of both worlds.
sorry... incidently ; the pressure sender you decide to use may need to be put on a 45 to clear the filter base . they're big , brass and bulky from lowes so a bit of corner grinding also cause they make um square . it's a snap .
I just installed boost and oil pressure tonight.
I used a "T" adapter from Craven for the oil pressure.
LINK
$31.95 + shipping.

It has one 1/8" NPT tap on the side, male 3/8" NPT on one end, female 3/8" NPT on the other.
I used a 1 1/16" deep socket (1/2" drive) with an angled driver and there were absolutely no issues with space.
You take out the two 13mm bolts for the heat shield - just wiggle the heat shield the right way and out it comes. If your car is hot I HIGHLY recommend using a box fan to cool the entire engine area, works in about 5 minutes.
I have the Promini kit installed in my car (did my wife's car tonight) so the install is almost identical other than the mechanical boost gauge for STRI.
The oil pressure sender included in the kit works fine without a 45 angle 1/8" NPT adapter. Just make sure the wires (ground and sensor) are pointed away from the headers. I drilled a hole into the side of the passenger cowl vent partition, then slide the wires around the back to the drivers side and then through the rubber grommet to the cabin.
One note: on my wife's 2006 (may 06 build) MCS, I had to dremmel away the center portion of the top cover of the steering column in order to use the ATI ePod properly.
I extedned the boost gauge using some vacuum tubing I had left over from the VGS mod. I did not have to extend the oil pressure sender wire as it reached up and around back to the tach with no problems.
It's not that hard to install - just a bit time consuming. Definitely do NOT do this when the car is hot!!!
Shoe
I used a "T" adapter from Craven for the oil pressure.
LINK
$31.95 + shipping.

It has one 1/8" NPT tap on the side, male 3/8" NPT on one end, female 3/8" NPT on the other.
I used a 1 1/16" deep socket (1/2" drive) with an angled driver and there were absolutely no issues with space.
You take out the two 13mm bolts for the heat shield - just wiggle the heat shield the right way and out it comes. If your car is hot I HIGHLY recommend using a box fan to cool the entire engine area, works in about 5 minutes.
I have the Promini kit installed in my car (did my wife's car tonight) so the install is almost identical other than the mechanical boost gauge for STRI.
The oil pressure sender included in the kit works fine without a 45 angle 1/8" NPT adapter. Just make sure the wires (ground and sensor) are pointed away from the headers. I drilled a hole into the side of the passenger cowl vent partition, then slide the wires around the back to the drivers side and then through the rubber grommet to the cabin.
One note: on my wife's 2006 (may 06 build) MCS, I had to dremmel away the center portion of the top cover of the steering column in order to use the ATI ePod properly.
I extedned the boost gauge using some vacuum tubing I had left over from the VGS mod. I did not have to extend the oil pressure sender wire as it reached up and around back to the tach with no problems.
It's not that hard to install - just a bit time consuming. Definitely do NOT do this when the car is hot!!!
Shoe
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, because I didn't get to go this year...
