Hydro... A few questions.
Hydro... A few questions.
I had recently goten some Hydro. I love how it looks after it has freshly been applied, however after a day or so my car appears to be more filthy than before applying it. I'm wondering if I am doing it right.
I am applying it to my wet car. and buffing it out. After the car gets wet once.... Well it seems as if the Hydro is just washing off! It will "bead" water, but only once. Then after that the water just seems to "stick" to my paint. Not sheeting, just sticking there.
I'll digress:
Saturday I washed, clayed, polished, and waxed. Saturday night it rained. Water beaded up nicely. Sunday morning I had these white water spots ALL over my car. So I decided to do a "quick" wash. I hosed the car down and it appeared as if there were never wax on it to begin with. As I said, no beading, no sheeting... The water just stuck there.
Any tips here?
I am applying it to my wet car. and buffing it out. After the car gets wet once.... Well it seems as if the Hydro is just washing off! It will "bead" water, but only once. Then after that the water just seems to "stick" to my paint. Not sheeting, just sticking there.
I'll digress:
Saturday I washed, clayed, polished, and waxed. Saturday night it rained. Water beaded up nicely. Sunday morning I had these white water spots ALL over my car. So I decided to do a "quick" wash. I hosed the car down and it appeared as if there were never wax on it to begin with. As I said, no beading, no sheeting... The water just stuck there.
Any tips here?
First, I would ask the same question as bamatt... what wax did you have on your car before using Hydro?
If it was something that has alot of oils it in then the oils would impede the Hydro bond. Typically, Hydro will bond best to either paint or a synthetic surface like a synthetic wax (and not necessarily, say, a traditional glaze, etc).
Second, when Hyrdo is applied to a wet surface you really have to make sure you buff it dry really well- especially if you use alot of it (which most people do). Think of it like this: your buffing arm motion is what is first mixing Hydro with the residual water and then is spreading it evenly all over the paint and then is buffing it dry.
Although using Hydro when washing is a relatively quick and convenient process, it still requires a little methodical massaging, if you will.
If you use a little less product, you don't need to do as much of this. As I already mentioned, most people use more Hydro than really necessary per application. So that might be another thing to try: use a little less and buff it in better.
Third, with regard to your water spots: these are just a fact of your rain water unfortunately. Some areas have more gunk in their rain water than others, but even the "cleanest" rain will usually cause some spotting.
In summary, as long as you aren't using a pre-Hydro wax base that contains oils, I would try Hydro'ing again but this time with a tad less product and really working it in well and buffing it really dry. I think you'll find your problem solved!
If not, just let me know and we'll figure out what else might be going on.
-Heather
If it was something that has alot of oils it in then the oils would impede the Hydro bond. Typically, Hydro will bond best to either paint or a synthetic surface like a synthetic wax (and not necessarily, say, a traditional glaze, etc).
Second, when Hyrdo is applied to a wet surface you really have to make sure you buff it dry really well- especially if you use alot of it (which most people do). Think of it like this: your buffing arm motion is what is first mixing Hydro with the residual water and then is spreading it evenly all over the paint and then is buffing it dry.
Although using Hydro when washing is a relatively quick and convenient process, it still requires a little methodical massaging, if you will.
If you use a little less product, you don't need to do as much of this. As I already mentioned, most people use more Hydro than really necessary per application. So that might be another thing to try: use a little less and buff it in better.Third, with regard to your water spots: these are just a fact of your rain water unfortunately. Some areas have more gunk in their rain water than others, but even the "cleanest" rain will usually cause some spotting.
In summary, as long as you aren't using a pre-Hydro wax base that contains oils, I would try Hydro'ing again but this time with a tad less product and really working it in well and buffing it really dry. I think you'll find your problem solved!
If not, just let me know and we'll figure out what else might be going on.
-Heather
considering my car easily lasted 4 weeks without re-app through
rain, snow, and even some roadsalt, i can safely say that Hydro is
very durable.
water beaded fine during the wash, and also sheeted off too
just before the wipe down with Hydro.
rain, snow, and even some roadsalt, i can safely say that Hydro is
very durable.

water beaded fine during the wash, and also sheeted off too
just before the wipe down with Hydro.
washed, clayed, polished, and waxed?
So... did you re-wash after the polish and apply hydro wet?
What polish and method (hand or PC) did you use?
If you washed after the polish, what wash did you use?
It's possible / likely that you didn't get all the polish residue off the car... especially with an oil-based polished (like Meguiar's)...
So... did you re-wash after the polish and apply hydro wet?
What polish and method (hand or PC) did you use?
If you washed after the polish, what wash did you use?
It's possible / likely that you didn't get all the polish residue off the car... especially with an oil-based polished (like Meguiar's)...
did you try it? did it roll off like that? 
the only reason why i stopped using Prima stuff on my weekend cars was
because i like SpeedShine (natural wax based). if there was a non-shiny
Prima QD (now tentatively called Refresh), i will change to Epic/Hydro/Refresh combo.
i don't use QD on my commuters.

the only reason why i stopped using Prima stuff on my weekend cars was
because i like SpeedShine (natural wax based). if there was a non-shiny
Prima QD (now tentatively called Refresh), i will change to Epic/Hydro/Refresh combo.

i don't use QD on my commuters.
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Not on my car, I don't use Carnauba, but on the loaner MINI from the dealer I started to use Hydro after I washed it and it was not wiping off right. I then realized what was going on switched over to some older stuff I had from Sonus meant for Carnauba.
I find it a bit odd that a guy who does not use Slick because it is too shiny will tart up his wheels with stuff that would make chrome look dull in comparison.
I find it a bit odd that a guy who does not use Slick because it is too shiny will tart up his wheels with stuff that would make chrome look dull in comparison.
Last edited by MiniMaybee; Apr 17, 2007 at 02:14 PM.
too shiny will (ok, i got this part)
tart up his wheels with stuff that would make chrome look dull in
comparison (ok what the hell did you just say
) 
i use Hydro on my wheels.
isn't it? i dont use a whole lot cause i hate glazed donuts.

That is exactly it. I used the Meguires 3 step process. The 3rd step being a carnuba wax.
If you want to use Carnauba then you will have to change to a Carnauba based spray wax. Seems as though synthetic waxes don't play well with their natural-based wax cousins. So either go with a synthetic wax like Epic and use Hydro for a spray on wax or if you choose to stay with a natural Carnauba wax then switch to a natural Carnauba spray on wax.
For QD, Slick should still be fine either way you go.
For QD, Slick should still be fine either way you go.
Although using Hydro when washing is a relatively quick and convenient process, it still requires a little methodical massaging, if you will.
If you use a little less product, you don't need to do as much of this. As I already mentioned, most people use more Hydro than really necessary per application. So that might be another thing to try: use a little less and buff it in better.
If you use a little less product, you don't need to do as much of this. As I already mentioned, most people use more Hydro than really necessary per application. So that might be another thing to try: use a little less and buff it in better.Also tell Mick that I'll be calling him Friday to place an order for those pads.
You'll love the Wizard, he is just so righteous.
is that the wizard's mist? If so, i hear great things about it too. 
for carnauba, also check out griot's SprayOn wax. that's pretty much
what i use through the seasons after one full detail/app of Best of Show
each spring.

for carnauba, also check out griot's SprayOn wax. that's pretty much
what i use through the seasons after one full detail/app of Best of Show
each spring.
You'll love the Epic I bet.
For special occasins remember that you can add a layer of carnauba-based wax ON TOP OF synthetic to add lustre and depth to the shine. With clear-coated cars the effect isn't as dramatic as it would be on older, non-clearcoat paints, but it's noticible for the truly ****. The natural wax will strip away pretty quickly, but the synthetic wax will endure, especially if you're using Slick to keep it clean 1-2 times a week.
For special occasins remember that you can add a layer of carnauba-based wax ON TOP OF synthetic to add lustre and depth to the shine. With clear-coated cars the effect isn't as dramatic as it would be on older, non-clearcoat paints, but it's noticible for the truly ****. The natural wax will strip away pretty quickly, but the synthetic wax will endure, especially if you're using Slick to keep it clean 1-2 times a week.
Yes! But only if the car is clean. Slick and Hydro share some properties, but in different amounts. Slick has more lifting/cleaning properties - but Hydro does some of that. Hydro has more protecting/durability properties - but Slick does some of that...
So while you CAN use Hydro to QD - I'd be extra careful not to if the car is dirty or dusty. But if the car is clean and dry - using Hydro on a dry car actually makes it look amazing...
So while you CAN use Hydro to QD - I'd be extra careful not to if the car is dirty or dusty. But if the car is clean and dry - using Hydro on a dry car actually makes it look amazing...
hummm... our office decided to test their sprinkler system today
and now i got a civic with white dots all over the hood, winshield, and
front quarter.
this is the first sprinkler test of the season, so
you can imagine how hard the water is with minerals and contaminants.
i tried the washer/wiper on the winsheld to see if the stain would wipe off.
nope. it's going to be a true test of Hydro vs HARD water, maybe?
will wash the car tonight if it's going to be sunny a few days.
and now i got a civic with white dots all over the hood, winshield, and
front quarter.
this is the first sprinkler test of the season, soyou can imagine how hard the water is with minerals and contaminants.
i tried the washer/wiper on the winsheld to see if the stain would wipe off.
nope. it's going to be a true test of Hydro vs HARD water, maybe?

will wash the car tonight if it's going to be sunny a few days.




