Hey everyone,
Got a tip that this stuff works wonders, but can't be sure. Has anyone used Rejex? it says that it last twelve months and protects better than any wax. Jus curious lemme know what you think.

http://www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html

 

I use this exclusively on my bling wheels Really does a nice job keeping dust from sticking.

 

Is anyone using this stuff on the car and not just the wheels?

 

A friend uses it on his Porsche Turbo and his MINI.

Says it is great, switched from Zaino.

 

12 months!??? Sorry! That's total BS!!!

I have RejeX among the many, many other waxes and sealants that I use and test. I have tested it on vehicles and on actual test panels. I have also seen the results of the Guru Reports (gurureports.com) wax test that included RejeX.

It has a very high solvent content. It applies extremely easy (high solvent content allows this) and wipes of very easy. It provides a very slick surface which starts to dissipate at a rather quick rate untouched. It accelorates with heat and more so with washings. Not unusual.

All in all it's user friendly but not very durable. Actual protective qualities can be measured more acurately in weeks, not months. It cannot be layered.

It was all the rage for a while on Rennlist, the Porsche forum I frequent (I have a Carrera C4S as well) but mainly because the marketing guy at RejeX was spamming the forum, offering discounts and giving away free samples. It was pretty sleezy and cheap. Anyone will rave about something for free goods. I am not saying it's "bad" but it was all blown WAY out of proportion how good it was.

My bottle is "on the shelf".

 

So what would you recommend for a product to help keep your wheels clean? Just a simple wax on it or some specialty product?

 

Any synthetic wax will work. RejeX is ok for that. Klasse, Zaino, even the cheapo NuFinish will work fine. The idea is simply to fill the rough cast pores of the insides of the wheels and add protection to the outsides of the wheels and add a slicker surface so the brake dust has a harder time adhering to the wheel. Any durable heat resistant wax will work.

Carnauba based waxes are not a good choice because they are not very durable and are not heat resistant.

"Wheel Wax" is another product that is high in solvents so it cleans well while being applied. But it is simply an over priced wax marketed with a single purpose in a small bottle.

Personally, I use Klasse Aill In One because it has cleaning solvents in it so it does a good job of cleaning when applied.

 

Hi,
I read so many great comments on Rejex that I went to the manufacturer's website and bought a bottle. Now, my question is, how soon, (if at all), do I need to wait to apply it to the painted surfaces of my brand new MINI? My concern is that the paint job is soooo new... perhaps it's best to wait x amount of time before applying it??? Someone suggested I wait at least 6 months, but this person is NOT a car expert so thought I'd throw this out there. Anyone have insight on this?

I do want to put it on my windshield, rear and side windows and to my wheels as well as to all the painted surfaces... Wondering how well it works on glass say vs, Zaino, which I have been reading is also fab.

Any feedback on this product/uses/best time for application greatly appreciated.

Thanks! :smile:

Proud owner (at last!) of Lola, my spankin' new 05 PW/B MC CVT, Sport Pkg. (minus the wheels, I like the 7-holes!); Prem, Cold, chrome ext. and int., anthracite headliner and dash; iPod adapter that lives in the glove box organizer; boot box; panther black leather complete with bun warmers ; ) Born March 16th, now mine all mine!!!! Life is good!

 

Congrats on your new car! Probably the PERFECT color combo.

You can put wax on your new car today. Go home and do it now. New car paints are cured from the factory and there is no waiting period.

There is no mystery with Rejex, it's a polymer base sealant. I have some and found it quite glossy, extremely easy to use, etc. May not live up to their billing on durability...but your findings will tell the tale. Have fun with it!

You can put it on your side windows but I wouldn't suggest using it on the windshield. The wipers will wear away a pattern pretty quickly and cause a streaking. Best not to wax the windshield, IMO.

The drawback for application is you have to let the car set and stay dry and clean for a few HOURS after applying the wax while it cures. So don't plan on going anywhere for a while. Read that part of the directions.

 

By the time your MINI has left the factory, the paint should be cured. Even if it wasn't, by the time it reaches your dealership (if you are in the US), it should be doubly-cured (if there was such a thing).

Your MINI will be ready for wax / sealant as soon as you get it. Do some reading in the "My Detailed Detailing Process" thread here about using clay to prep your finish before waxing... you won't regret it. You can find claybar in most auto supply stores for $10 and it will only take you an extra 45 minutes to clay your MINI before waxing to get a slick, smooth finish.

I use Zaino on my glass, but it is a polymer sealant... not a wax. I've never heard of anyone waxing their glass, but that doesn't mean that they don't. I would expect that it would make the wipers work poorly in light rain (if not in heavy rain).

 

Thanks for your input, this is great. I'm not planning to "wax" my car, though.. I plan to apply RejeX (http://www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html) to the painted surfaces, the glass surfaces, and the wheels of my brand new MINI. Suppose I should avoid the black plastic wheel wells??? What's best for those?

And to be perfectly honest, I know nothing about claybar.. I never heard of it till just recently, browsing these forums...

I plan to do the RejeX application this weekend but now I'm wondering if I should claybar my car first?? Again, I won't be applying wax onto my car, which is in it's straight off the boat from Oxford condition, but wonder now if I need to claybar BEFORE applying the RejeX, which is not a wax... getting confused...

 

Sorry... I think that I confused you...

Rejex (after reading your link) is a polymer sealant. You can use it on anything that is smooth and shiny (paint, wheels, glass, chrome). Do not use it on the textured black plastic wheel arches and trip pieces of your MINI. You can follow the directions that you find here for Zaino or Klasse (also known as AOI... All-in-one)... just substitute the Rejex specific directions

Definately claybar BEFORE you wax or seal (Rejex) your car. It should only take you an extra hour to clay your MINI (30-40 minutes once you have done it once or twice). You can find Mothers and ClayMagic clay in the auto cleaning/waxing sections of auto supply stores like PepBoys.

Here is my process for claying (which I lifted with slight modifications for your specific purpose from my complete process here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=37303):

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Process for Claying the Car

1. Wash with Dawn Dishwashing Liquid. It will remove any wax the dealer put on there. Don't bother drying
2. Rinse out your wash mit very well and empty your bucket. Mix up a fresh batch of wash water with a strong dose of an auto shampoo (Don't use Dawn all the time to be cheap... it will dry out your rubber bits... It's OK every now and then if you have a specific purpose). This bucket now contains your clay lubricant... it is important to keep the surface you are claying wet with this stuff. Just use your wash mit to slop some on and then clay away! It's convenient because, after claying (see below), you can use this same mit and wash water to wash away the claybar remnants.
3. Get out your clay. I use the Zaino clay-bar because I like the feel, but I have only used one other brand – Mothers. It wasn’t bad, but I liked the Zaino better.
4. If you drop your clay on the ground, throw it away. Contamination sticks to the clay and will scratch your paint.
5. BradB’s directions were much better than mine, so here they are: I recommend that you cut your claybar into several pieces and knead into silver dollar size wafers about 3/16” thick. Use one side until visibly dirty. Flip over and use second side. Then throw away. Do not be tempted to use a large piece of clay and knead the dirty debris into the clay. This contamination will eventually come back to the surface and cause a scratch. You will get better results and avoid scratching from the clay itself if you use an auto shampoo as a lubricant. This is important. You get best results when you rub in back and forth motions only. (In fact, everything….washing mitt, drying towel, claying strokes, should be front-aft motions on car. This consistency will help optics regarding micro-marring and scratches/swirls) (Note from agranger: I keep my ‘spent’ clay in a sealed container… It’s great for polishing glass.
6. Clay everything with a smooth finish: chrome, paint and glass
7. When you finish one body panel, wash (with your mit and clean water/auto shampoo mix) and rinse it well .

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Now your car is ready for sealing and/or waxing. Dry the car and follow the directions for your sealant (Rejex) or wax carefully.

Good luck and sorry for the confusion!