Anyone try touching up their wheels with an airbrush? I really don't want to get rid of the rest of the factory finish if I don't have to but I have a large nick in the paint on one of mine.

 

I've used an airbrush to t/up body paint, and MINI wheels are painted the same with a base/clear system so it can be done

what is the question?

 

How did your touch ups look? Were you able to blend them nicely?
Thanks

 

let's go off line ... I'll PM you

 

I am going to need to touch up my black rims. Someone at the MINI dealership had told me that they use the same black for the rims as they do for the roofs. Looking at http://automotivetouchup.com , I see two black options both metallic. There is a Midnight and an Astro Black metallic option to choose from. Which color do they use for the rims or is there a different black option that I should look for?

Thanks.

 

Should be Jet Black, code 668. The white is Aspen White, code 899. Both are normally used for the roofs, mirror caps, and wheels if not body colored or Silver.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lack-roof.html


I agree the code 668 appears to be the right one.

note that the NAME of the color changed a few times but the code 668 - and the Sherwin Williams formula number - stayed the same.

The 'application' of this code is 'miscellaneous' rather than 'exterior' which is how body colors are listed.

I believe this to be the same code for the black on the wheels btw ....

and while I'm at it, the top & wheel white is ASPEN WHITE, code 899

I posted a list of all color codes from 02 thru 08 a long time ago . . .

 

Quick question: Did you use an artist's airbrush, or a paint sprayer? If the former, did you need to do anything special, thin out the paint or anything? Or did it go straight from container to cup to car?

Thanks!

 

WAY too many variables in your question

I've used an artist brush - and a detail gun depending on the area to be covered .... but played with the paint b4 I got close to the car. Viscosity is the issue and if you have no idea what I'm talking about ... STOP.

Not all airbrushes are the same .... I've had to adjust the mix for different brushes.

Automotive paints and clears seem to be a bit more caustic than standard airbrush paints so clean these out SUPER well. I've trashed a good airbrush or two by running automotive paint and clear thru them and not doing a good enuf job cleaning up ...

RECOMMENDATION:

TEST CARD, TEST CARD, TEST CARD .... then think about getting within 10 feet of the car

and BTW .... you need to spray BASE and CLEAR .... IME the clear is the bigger issue in an air brush.

I can do it now ... but there was a learning process .....

 

Good answer. I definitely expect to spend some time experimenting on scrap before I go near the car. I figure worst case I totally screw up the car and pay someone to repaint the entire door panel. Best case it turns out well and I've learned to do something new.

I have not actually used my airbrush in a decade or more. Definitely out of practice!

Assuming I take a swing at this I'll follow up with a post on how I made out.

 

here's another point .....

getting an 'airbrush' quantity of any base color or clear is gonna be a problem ..... I play airbrush repair with materials I have on hand. Materials I have for 'full spray jobs' .... leftovers for my classic mostly. A PINT of a metallic color 'base' can cost well over $100 depending on the color and the quality paint. Good luck finding a place that will sell you less .... I do some body repair on the side ... buy 'one fender' quantities frequently ..... A pint of base after thinning (reducing / activating) is a full fender or more .....

You might try thinning typical bottle brush t/up glue but I wouldn't!!!!

 

Back when I had a 928 I went to an auto paint store and bought some silver base coat and a two part clear coat for the wheels. I bought a Preval bottle sprayer and they came out really well.