Adding power to an r50
#1
Adding power to an r50
I'm looking to add some power to my r50, it is currently stock (with the exception of a 6 speed swap).
What would the experts here at NAM recommend as my first power gain mod? I've seen a few things about getting a JCW head; what all would go into doing something like that?
Would it be viable to turbocharge the car? (does this turbo fit ? https://revolution-motor-works.mysho...efr-6758-turbo )
Originally I was looking into tuning it for E85, but it seems like that may be significantly more difficult than it's worth.
Thanks for any input !
What would the experts here at NAM recommend as my first power gain mod? I've seen a few things about getting a JCW head; what all would go into doing something like that?
Would it be viable to turbocharge the car? (does this turbo fit ? https://revolution-motor-works.mysho...efr-6758-turbo )
Originally I was looking into tuning it for E85, but it seems like that may be significantly more difficult than it's worth.
Thanks for any input !
#2
You are not the only person that has thought about the matter. There is a separate Mod area for the R50, below is a recent thread. Thought of a good one is a member there that had a similar question and is also posted in the below thread.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-ecu-tune.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-ecu-tune.html
#3
FINALLY the R50 is getting some love! The people that want to hotrod the R50 are coming fast and um...er... furious... but I digress...
You have taken care of the biggest (in physical size) problem with the 6 speed swap.
My initial investigation into this is that the internals; connecting rods, crank and pistons need to be changed out for something a bit more robust. Having said that, Madness Motorworks used to sell a stage 3 tuning kit that had (going from memory here) head, cam, intake, header, exhaust and ECU tune which got just less than 150hp. This thought of mine was kind of squashed by Jan at Revolution Motorworks who has built several champion R50 race cars and said that while 150 is possible, if you change out the internals, you can run the R50 at 8000+ RPM all day long and not worry about the engine blowing up while if you don't you are taking a gamble.
An intake and exhaust will net you a real world 5 hp or so on a good day no matter what the ad copy tells you.
I am thinking about adding a new header with a high flow cat, which should add a few more hp.
I started from the ground up. Tires, wheels and brakes. Get a good set of really sticky tires tread ware as close to 200 as you can - summer only use though. As light a wheel as you can afford. I wouldn't go wider than 7 inches as the R50 is light and there won't be enough weight (pounds per square inch of tread) on the tires to get good grip. Supper light wheels will lower the un-sprung weight and make you feel like you just added 50hp (a little hyperbole there).
Go with some good suspension mods, I really like my Megan Racing coilovers. The exhaust and coilovers are the most cost effective (read: inexpensive and/or cheapest).
Take some track days and shine up the wingnut behind the wheel (I need a lot more shining) so that you can keep that right foot on the floor board through the corners.
Me at my last track day, the mic is suck under the bonnet next the ECU:
You have taken care of the biggest (in physical size) problem with the 6 speed swap.
My initial investigation into this is that the internals; connecting rods, crank and pistons need to be changed out for something a bit more robust. Having said that, Madness Motorworks used to sell a stage 3 tuning kit that had (going from memory here) head, cam, intake, header, exhaust and ECU tune which got just less than 150hp. This thought of mine was kind of squashed by Jan at Revolution Motorworks who has built several champion R50 race cars and said that while 150 is possible, if you change out the internals, you can run the R50 at 8000+ RPM all day long and not worry about the engine blowing up while if you don't you are taking a gamble.
An intake and exhaust will net you a real world 5 hp or so on a good day no matter what the ad copy tells you.
I am thinking about adding a new header with a high flow cat, which should add a few more hp.
I started from the ground up. Tires, wheels and brakes. Get a good set of really sticky tires tread ware as close to 200 as you can - summer only use though. As light a wheel as you can afford. I wouldn't go wider than 7 inches as the R50 is light and there won't be enough weight (pounds per square inch of tread) on the tires to get good grip. Supper light wheels will lower the un-sprung weight and make you feel like you just added 50hp (a little hyperbole there).
Go with some good suspension mods, I really like my Megan Racing coilovers. The exhaust and coilovers are the most cost effective (read: inexpensive and/or cheapest).
Take some track days and shine up the wingnut behind the wheel (I need a lot more shining) so that you can keep that right foot on the floor board through the corners.
Me at my last track day, the mic is suck under the bonnet next the ECU:
#4
FINALLY the R50 is getting some love! The people that want to hotrod the R50 are coming fast and um...er... furious... but I digress...
You have taken care of the biggest (in physical size) problem with the 6 speed swap.
My initial investigation into this is that the internals; connecting rods, crank and pistons need to be changed out for something a bit more robust. Having said that, Madness Motorworks used to sell a stage 3 tuning kit that had (going from memory here) head, cam, intake, header, exhaust and ECU tune which got just less than 150hp. This thought of mine was kind of squashed by Jan at Revolution Motorworks who has built several champion R50 race cars and said that while 150 is possible, if you change out the internals, you can run the R50 at 8000+ RPM all day long and not worry about the engine blowing up while if you don't you are taking a gamble.
An intake and exhaust will net you a real world 5 hp or so on a good day no matter what the ad copy tells you.
I am thinking about adding a new header with a high flow cat, which should add a few more hp.
I started from the ground up. Tires, wheels and brakes. Get a good set of really sticky tires tread ware as close to 200 as you can - summer only use though. As light a wheel as you can afford. I wouldn't go wider than 7 inches as the R50 is light and there won't be enough weight (pounds per square inch of tread) on the tires to get good grip. Supper light wheels will lower the un-sprung weight and make you feel like you just added 50hp (a little hyperbole there).
Go with some good suspension mods, I really like my Megan Racing coilovers. The exhaust and coilovers are the most cost effective (read: inexpensive and/or cheapest).
Take some track days and shine up the wingnut behind the wheel (I need a lot more shining) so that you can keep that right foot on the floor board through the corners.
Me at my last track day, the mic is suck under the bonnet next the ECU:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDrcgtVe2oc&t=369s
You have taken care of the biggest (in physical size) problem with the 6 speed swap.
My initial investigation into this is that the internals; connecting rods, crank and pistons need to be changed out for something a bit more robust. Having said that, Madness Motorworks used to sell a stage 3 tuning kit that had (going from memory here) head, cam, intake, header, exhaust and ECU tune which got just less than 150hp. This thought of mine was kind of squashed by Jan at Revolution Motorworks who has built several champion R50 race cars and said that while 150 is possible, if you change out the internals, you can run the R50 at 8000+ RPM all day long and not worry about the engine blowing up while if you don't you are taking a gamble.
An intake and exhaust will net you a real world 5 hp or so on a good day no matter what the ad copy tells you.
I am thinking about adding a new header with a high flow cat, which should add a few more hp.
I started from the ground up. Tires, wheels and brakes. Get a good set of really sticky tires tread ware as close to 200 as you can - summer only use though. As light a wheel as you can afford. I wouldn't go wider than 7 inches as the R50 is light and there won't be enough weight (pounds per square inch of tread) on the tires to get good grip. Supper light wheels will lower the un-sprung weight and make you feel like you just added 50hp (a little hyperbole there).
Go with some good suspension mods, I really like my Megan Racing coilovers. The exhaust and coilovers are the most cost effective (read: inexpensive and/or cheapest).
Take some track days and shine up the wingnut behind the wheel (I need a lot more shining) so that you can keep that right foot on the floor board through the corners.
Me at my last track day, the mic is suck under the bonnet next the ECU:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDrcgtVe2oc&t=369s
I found some wheels that weigh ~1.5lbs. less than my current wheels; is taking off 6lbs. really going to make any difference or should I look for a more lightweight wheel? Also the wheels I'm looking at are 7.5 inches wide, is that too wide or is a half-inch negligible ?
My Cooper has the factory "sport suspension", are suspension mods like the Megan Racing Coilovers still a huge improvement? (I don't know anything about the suspension that comes in the Cooper.)
#5
A stiffer rear swaybar can have a big impact on how the car handles when in a turn. Have you checked out the Mod Suspension section here? If it has been discussed about a MINI it is most likely here within over 85,000 Gen1 threads.
What many people do not realize is how well the MINI handles in stock form. I did a mountain tour where every type of MINI was present. I was amazed at how well both the Gen3 Clubman and Countryman handled. The biggest surprise was a stock Gen1 R50 as yours. In the twisties, what a MINI is made for, the car was keeping up with cars that had twice the HP and torque. Sat with the couple at a dinner and got talking. The guy was a professional driver that worked for a company that made ads for NASCAR. You see a NASCAR car on TV that is not actual race footage, and he was driving it.
What many people do not realize is how well the MINI handles in stock form. I did a mountain tour where every type of MINI was present. I was amazed at how well both the Gen3 Clubman and Countryman handled. The biggest surprise was a stock Gen1 R50 as yours. In the twisties, what a MINI is made for, the car was keeping up with cars that had twice the HP and torque. Sat with the couple at a dinner and got talking. The guy was a professional driver that worked for a company that made ads for NASCAR. You see a NASCAR car on TV that is not actual race footage, and he was driving it.
#7
The larger, 19 or 22 MM, RSB is THE best bang for the buck for increasing performance hands down. As one old timer on the forum used to quote: "If you can't go fast with 90 HP, 900 won't help you."
PS: One very rarely mentioned condition of the MINI is it's body shape. Aerodynamically it's a brick, the power required to push it thru the air increases geometrically with speed.
PS: One very rarely mentioned condition of the MINI is it's body shape. Aerodynamically it's a brick, the power required to push it thru the air increases geometrically with speed.
Last edited by Fly'n Brick; 12-18-2017 at 06:28 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
I only have the Cooper S Sport+ rear antiroll bar in the back which seems to keep the car balanced even with the other suspension mods. I got mine for free from the now no longer existing PDXMINI car club when someone with a Cooper S was upgrading their rear antiroll bar. It is cheaper than a new set of wheels and tires and will make a big difference in the handling of the car. Snap oversteer is a real concern with the larger bars, but an aftermarket 19 bar set at its softest setting to start out with should be more than noticeable. If memory serves me, the Cooper S Sport+ and the Cooper Sport+ rear bars were the same. Not entirely sure on that one though.
7.5 inch wide wheels not be that much of a difference in my opinion. Just make sure that you have the correct off-set for the suspension you have or the wheels will rub on the springs making your drive very short. Just get the softest summer tire you can reasonably afford and it'll be fine.
JUST REMEMBER SUMMER TIRES ARE FOR SUMMER ONLY THEY SUCK A$$ IN THE WINTER AND ARE ACTUALLY DANGEROUS IN THE WINTER.
As for the drop in weight. The 1.5 pound difference will not be all that noticeable unless you are extremely familiar with your car. I have owned mine since new and did some autocross and track days prior to modifying my car. The difference between the factory 8-spoke 15x5.5 at 15 pounds and the factory Hollies that I use as winter tires for our S at 12 pounds there is a noticeable difference in feel. There is a huge difference between the 15's and my 16x7 Panasports at 19 pounds. The 16x7's are more planted in the corners due to the added tread width - lower pucker factor - but there is a dramatic difference in acceleration which is slower with the heavier wheels/tire combo. Instead of rolling onto the throttle at the apex, I have to throttle on before apex just so that I can keep my speed up. Having said all that every pound counts. I am thinking about these for dedicated track tires at 10.6 pounds and not all that expensive:
http://949racing.com/15x6-6UL.aspx
I like my coil overs, I have them set a bit stiff for daily driving, which is what my car is and will more than likely remain. I like it but my wife and just about everyone that has ever been in the car doesn't. But since it's me who spends 99% of the time in the car alone, I leave it as it is. The coil overs I have, are nearly fully adjustable. You can adjust the front camber but not the rear camber. Front and back you can adjust ride height, damper setting, and preload the springs. I am still learning about how to set the suspension up for the best handling. There is a lot to learn there.
The picture in my sig is from my very first tack day - the only mod at that time was the Cooper S Sport+ rear bar. The instructor sitting next to me who raced a Neon ACR and SRT4 said that my car was very balanced. Funny guy too, he kept yelling put your foot in it... GO! GO! GO! Then he would look over at me and say... oh, I guess this is all she's got so keep your foot to the floor when we hit the apex! only lift to shift! and do that in a straight line! I'm doing about 40 to 45 mph there in turn 12 at Portland International Raceway... good times.... After 5 track days and many mods later, the video shows... er... not that much of an improvement...
7.5 inch wide wheels not be that much of a difference in my opinion. Just make sure that you have the correct off-set for the suspension you have or the wheels will rub on the springs making your drive very short. Just get the softest summer tire you can reasonably afford and it'll be fine.
JUST REMEMBER SUMMER TIRES ARE FOR SUMMER ONLY THEY SUCK A$$ IN THE WINTER AND ARE ACTUALLY DANGEROUS IN THE WINTER.
As for the drop in weight. The 1.5 pound difference will not be all that noticeable unless you are extremely familiar with your car. I have owned mine since new and did some autocross and track days prior to modifying my car. The difference between the factory 8-spoke 15x5.5 at 15 pounds and the factory Hollies that I use as winter tires for our S at 12 pounds there is a noticeable difference in feel. There is a huge difference between the 15's and my 16x7 Panasports at 19 pounds. The 16x7's are more planted in the corners due to the added tread width - lower pucker factor - but there is a dramatic difference in acceleration which is slower with the heavier wheels/tire combo. Instead of rolling onto the throttle at the apex, I have to throttle on before apex just so that I can keep my speed up. Having said all that every pound counts. I am thinking about these for dedicated track tires at 10.6 pounds and not all that expensive:
http://949racing.com/15x6-6UL.aspx
I like my coil overs, I have them set a bit stiff for daily driving, which is what my car is and will more than likely remain. I like it but my wife and just about everyone that has ever been in the car doesn't. But since it's me who spends 99% of the time in the car alone, I leave it as it is. The coil overs I have, are nearly fully adjustable. You can adjust the front camber but not the rear camber. Front and back you can adjust ride height, damper setting, and preload the springs. I am still learning about how to set the suspension up for the best handling. There is a lot to learn there.
The picture in my sig is from my very first tack day - the only mod at that time was the Cooper S Sport+ rear bar. The instructor sitting next to me who raced a Neon ACR and SRT4 said that my car was very balanced. Funny guy too, he kept yelling put your foot in it... GO! GO! GO! Then he would look over at me and say... oh, I guess this is all she's got so keep your foot to the floor when we hit the apex! only lift to shift! and do that in a straight line! I'm doing about 40 to 45 mph there in turn 12 at Portland International Raceway... good times.... After 5 track days and many mods later, the video shows... er... not that much of an improvement...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MBlazed
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
3
02-11-2014 10:39 AM
Navigation & Audio Solution to adding more power to the factory Stereo
dcsmd007
Navigation & Audio
28
04-23-2012 07:48 PM
Latka
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
3
07-06-2010 02:09 PM