my 77 mini 1000 is in need of replacement panels for the front (it was obviously in a crash and was "carefully" sculpted out of bondo in the lower right corner and the complete piece where the hood latches!)). it originally had rubber subframe mounts located in the front. now on to my questions....
1st. What is the compatability of early (pre-76) to later (after 76) front repair panels and are they in fact intercangable?

2nd. Is this an insane task to take on with minimal welding skills?

3rd. Anybody recommend a good website for guidance?

4th. Does the subframe need to be installed? I currently only have a possibly bent subframe for an automatic, but I'm in search of a decent used subframe for a manual. hint, hint....

 

From what I've researched and experienced panels and subframes are pretty readily available. Shipping from UK just takes a while and you either pay high shipping costs fm UK cuz of the size of the parts or accept the mark-up of places here (MiniMania) who will cover the shipping fm UK.

So far as the welding skills - IMHO one of the secrets to decent welds by one with limited skills is the quality of the equipment used. Many amateur welders try to use Harbor Freight quality MIG equipment and the probability of a decent weld is proportional to the quality of the equipment. An expert welder may get a decent bead out of a $125 MIG unit but I found my quality went up when I moved from one of those to a 240v MILLER . The ability to dial in the right settings rather than choose beteen High and Low and Slow or Fast made quite a difference.... You can rent MIG equipment....practice makes perfect. Gas feed rather than cored wire also makes a dif' (MIG process)

I don't have a web site for secrets but suggest this: I've been taking 'auto body repair' as adult continuing education at our VoTec high school for a couple of years. They offer a class and I've fallen in with a bunch of guys that just take the same intro class every semester. For about $150 we get to use the auto body shop two nites a week for 3 months. This gives access to welders, plasma cutters, lifts, compressors, frame racks, tools, an instructor & other 'students' with experience. Over the last couple of years I've helped in everything from simple dent pulling, to panel replacements, full repaints, frame off restorations, and custom chops.... rebuilt the boot panel on my 79 and painted same - stiffened the rear subframe and replaced floor pans.. Check with adult education in your town, there may be one heck of a resource out there (I'm in norfolk...)

 

I'll assume that from what i have seen from pics on the info-web that the subframe does not have to be in the car. Yeah, i met a man that insructs for the local college in the VOTECH center and I'm sure if all else fails that he'll help. You the man!

 

What panels are you speaking of?

You have to drill out the spot welds to remove the old panels then spot weld in the new to have it look right.




This can also be accomplished by "plug" welding drill holes. or Buy a Harbor Freight spot welder (above) which does work okay. For a MIG go Miller, Hobart or Lincoln, as suggested. I have Lincoln with gas (Ar/Co2) and it is excellent for this work.

Yes, you can do this if you have some skilles and patience.

 

Used subframes are available. Try DJMinis.com.

If replacing the front panel and/or front fenders I'd use the proper subframe for locating parts and fitting panels before welding. On the front I'd use Heritage panels or Genuine panels. DJ's can also supply those.

 

Suggest getting a copy of the Haynes Mini Restoration Manual (Lindsay Porter). I'm reading it now and its very informative. Lots of pix, although they're B/W. He also talks of MIG/TIG, and spot welders. Its got me wanting a MIG - I was looking at them at Home Depot today. And I don't even have a Mini to restore... yet.

 

Bought my MIG unit about 6 months into ownership of my '79. Took an introduction to welding course b4 I bought and damn glad I did. It really helped me not make mistakes on what I bought. If you are seriously thinking of buying PM and I'll share some of the 'watch out 4s' I took away from the class.

 

Capt BJ, did you go with a 120 or 230 volt unit? From what I've read the only difference is the max thickness that can be handled. And the difference was on the order of 1/16 inch. Looks like for Mini restoration, given the thickness (or not) of the steel being welded, a 120 volt unit would be enough.

 

230v Miller http://www.millerwelds.com/products/..._175/index.php
- PM sent - there are variables to consider.

 

great info but, how about compatabilty on the repair panels from year to year? and while I'm at it, how about compatabilty when it comes to the subframes? I know now that I can't interchange the automatic subframe with a manual subframe but how about a pre '76 to a post '76 subframe (manual)?

 

If you want everything to stay true to the year you just need to be sure you replace MK4 with MK4.

That is not they way everyone does it however because the differences are often cosmetic. A front fender of a MK1 will fit on a MK3, but the lines may be different. My MK4 shell now has a MK1 front end, everything forward of the front seams, and a MK1 tail, everything aft of the back seam except the window. Cut and paste is possible - but you sure wouldn't want to mix side to side :impatient unless you're going for something really unique.

Same point wrt a subframe I believe. There are two major types of dry subframe....big bolt and small bolt I've heard them refered to - front subframe that is. As long as you are good for your MK - and dry if that's an option for your MK, I believe you should be good to go but get that confirmed.....

A 76 is a MK3?

 

i have just got a mini with a frount end damage and i have found out it is eayser to buy new pannels rather than ment them