So I have a 1993 Mini Tahiti edition that has been running great until recently, brought it to a friends house had it idling in his driveway and it just died and didn't want to start back up so I had to leave it there.

It turns over and ALMOST starts but will not, any ideas on what could be the problem here? Alternatively does anyone know of a good mechanic specializing in Classics in the Charleston area?

thanks in advance

 

Some more info will help. Are you getting fuel, or hearing the fuel pump prime (assuming you have an SPi since it's a 93)

 

It's a carb'd 1275cc... I'm pretty new at this home mechanic game but I'm good at turning a wrench. I've done mainly suspension and basic maintenance on an Xterra prior to owning this, but I want to learn.

I can just explain it like I'm 5, turns over and gets the kick like it's about to start but doesn't or it will only stay on for about a second before it seems to choke itself out.

 

Ok, I just want to make sure I understand you correctly, by turning over, I assume that you mean the starter motor is cranking the engine, correct? And then it will eventually stumble to a start and then die out? If so, it sounds like you have a fuel issue (or lack of) check the fuel filter and make sure it isnt being blocked by gunk. It may also be time to clean and/or rebuild the carb.

 

Yes, if it does stumble to a start it doesn't last long, I'll check the filter tomorrow, just hoping I can get it to run long enough to get it home if more extensive things are required.

 

Well I will tell you the easy (not necessarily the right way) to clean the carb out quickly. Back when I first started working on cars, and knew nothing about it. I had a 65 Mustang with the 200 straight six. I could not get that thing to stay running for the life of me, it would always start (eventually) but then die out. Not knowing what I was doing, and not wanting to take the carb apart for fear of not being able to put it back together, I took it off the car, and poured two bottles of lucas carb cleaner into a bucket. I put the carb in, let it soak over night.

By morning, the yellow color of the Lucas had now become black. Took the carb out, let it dry, put it back on the car and she started right up and ran all day long!

This is not a long term fix, but it will get you back on the road (if a gummed up carb is your problem)

 

Do not do what he suggested with your SU carb, in all probability that's not the problem.

1) does this car have an electric fuel pump? if so, make sure it's working.

2) check to see if it's getting gas by pulling the line off at the carb and have someone crank it over, direct the fuel into a pop bottle or something.

3) does it have points? if so, they may have closed up a bit. Open them up so that you have about 16 thou gap when they're open the widest - on the top of the cam lobe.

4) pull the plugs and check them too. While you have them out make sure you have compression on all cylinders, and that it's roughly the same.

Let us know what you find.

 

Thats why I said IF the problem is that the carb need to be cleaned, and I did say it is not the right way to do it, but he said that he just need to be able to get it home, so IF the problem is a gummed up carb, that would clean it out (to and extent) and get it home. Again, IF that is the issue. This is intended as a last ditch effort to get the car running.

 

1. never mess with the fuel system until you are 110% sure the ignition is correct. I'd pull the plugs and see what they are trying to tell you. It is possible the dizzy is loose and the timing slipping out to left field? Got access to a timing light? Any water issues under the dizzy cap (a cracked cap can cause problems)? Rotor is good? As mentioned - points (if you still have 'em replace with Pertronix)

2. are you sure the choke linkage hasn't come loose? Are you using the choke when you try to start? Note that the first 1/3 or so of the choke pull only engages 'fast idle' ... can you keep it running at 'fast idle'? When it tries to start do you smell fuel at the exhaust? (it is passing gas?)

3. What air filter are you using? It it possible it is clogged? Try to start with the air filter removed. fuel + air + spark = running

4. Assuming you have a single SU - probably HIF-44 - does the piston move freely and is the oil damper pot full? There is a spring loaded button facing down - pushing this should allow you to easily lift the piston - if it hangs up either your gunked in the piston chamber or the spring may have broken. A common place for the SU to get gunked is the piston. If the piston won't move the needle won't move and the carb is non-functional. The suction chamber cover can be removed via the three screws around the edges, w/out removing the carb from the motor. With the cover off you can remove the piston with the needle attached, and the piston spring. I remove mine and clean once a year and have never had to go farther than that as far as carb cleaning on an HIF or HIS SU. It is also possible your needle came loose from the piston and if the piston can't lift the needle you'll not get any fuel flow..... pm if you want pictures

You DO have a Haynes or other manual?

of course we should really start with the basics - are you sure there is fuel in the tank? Not because of what the needle on the dash says - because you checked the tank?

 

hey Navy

in the Coast Guard we were required to send SITREPS every 4 hours when working a case.

How about one a day?

{btw ... should I add this to my case file about 'gray market cars' ? ? ? }

 

Forget what it's called but there is a little yellow light tube that you put between the spak plug and the ignition wire end - makes it really easy to tell if you have spark. Also gotta have a dwell / tach. On my 1973 SAAB at one point there must have been a bunch of muck stirred up from the fuel tank - had to replace fuel filters once a week until things cleared up.
Barry. RPI '69

 

has it got points or is it an electronic Dizzy..........if points then the small cappitor might of failed........

 

Haha, sorry guys, I'm currently in Nuke Power School down here so I'm on base weekdays from around 6:30am to 7 or 8pm depending on how much studying I feel like getting in after classes end at 4. Actually just got home an hour ago, got some groceries and am about to get some sleep to do it all over again tomorrow. I'm gonna start tackling it this weekend, I'm not sure about points vs. electronic, I haven't had the car for very long. Thought I was going to be on hold down here for a few months and have some time to really get to know the car but ended up classing up instantly and going head first into the madness. I also didn't have a Haynes manual but I'll be tracking one down when I have some time, hopefully before the weekend.


Barry, your sign off, RPI '69? Rensselaer? 2012 grad here.

 

I've got a few Mini workshop manuals in PDF form that I can email to you if you want them.

 

sorry guys, I'm currently in Nuke Power School

hmmmmm

recruiters tried to get my son to become an instructor there as he job sought after achieving a Masters in Chemical Engineering

 

That manual would be amazing! I just PM'ed you my e-mail.

Instructor would be a great job if that's something that interested him but it's definitely not for me, I wanna get out there! Relaxing for tonight, but I'll be cracking into the car tomorrow morning. Already got her prepped for anything that can possibly happen, gonna change the oil and install the new pads and rotors I've had sitting around while I'm at it too

 

Just a few updates after doing some more reading, my car has the Weber carb in it so no SU, pretty positive I have an electronic distributor, plug wires go from plugs to what looks like the diz cap to the stbd side of the oil filter, and then a central plug goes from the cap to something cylindrical stbd of the plugs mounted to the engine that says "flame thrower"

Currently don't know how I would test spark or compression, but I changed the oil yesterday, removed the air filter from the carb, you guys were right it was nasty, but it's hard to find carb air cleaners at local parts stores so I might try and get in touch with K&N to order a custom cleaner. I'm going outside right now to test startup with an open carb.

 

weber huh - oh well - that being the case there's no tellin' what all may have been done to your motor. No Mini manual, factory or Haynes, is gonna give you info about that carb as Mini didn't come with them. It is an aftermarket replacement so you'll be looking for someone who knows webers or a weber book.

FlameThrower is the 'name' Pertronix puts on their ignition coils - I use one.

so let's start at square one and determine if you have a A or an A+ cuz it will make a difference in the ignition bits.

looking at the dizzy and how it attaches to the block: is it held by a fork that's attached to the block by a single bolt like this


or something like this?


The first would be pointing to an A+ block ... the later an A block

another tell tale: does the dip stick fit flush to the block, or is there a tube that sticks up from the block that the dip stick slides into?

Pop the dizzy cap (you can leave the wires attached) and tell us what you find - or post a picture. I'll bet you either have points or a Pertronix replacement.

****
a seat of the pants way to check for spark:

Depending on how easy it is to get to a spark plug... if the plug ends are exposed it's super easy. Just pull the spark plug wire off of the spark plug and put a screwdriver in the end of the spark plug wire so it's touching the metal conductor inside the boot. Then being very careful to only be touching the handle of the screwdriver and NOT the metal part, place the shaft of the screwdriver about 1/4" from the end of the spark plug and have someone turn the car over. If you get a spark from the wire to the plug you're good there

 

Well, now I'm just baffled, fresh oil in, air filter off, started up fine, threw the filter back on...still started up fine, it is dirty as hell though so I will be replacing it. Gimme a sec, I'll get back with the dizzy pics.

 

Looks like the dizzy is connected with the A+ fork, popped the cap, here's what's underneath.

 

A few thoughts from your video

What fuel are you running - premium? Sounds like some knock is present at idle.

I hear valve chatter too - sounds like they need adjustment. Not a big job - easy to DIY with just a few simple tools.

What oil did you put in?

problems that come and go are always fun. locate the fuel filter - if there is one - and if there is replace it. how many times have you filled the tank since you bought it? Is it possible there's water in the tank?

I'd examine all the wires - the big thick ignition wires AND the thin ones that attach to that coil. A loose connection here can make the ignition pop on to off and back again . . . check the battery cables too, especially the negative one - BOTH ENDS ... where the neg connects to the body in the boot is a common place for you to have a loose bolt that makes the ignition come and go . . .

That looks like the Lucas 65 electronic distributor so no points to worry about. It still uses a coil so check those connections as they can cause problems like you had. Look for wear on the rotor and on the inside of the cap, where the rotor makes the contact to the spark plug wires. And learning how to use a timing light is a very good idea. You can get a cheapo at Harbor Freight for around $20 - it is good enuf to do what you need. You know what the dizzy clamp looks like - is it tight? If you can twist the dizzy that would be bad - that's HOW you adjust the timing....

 

Yup, Exxon 93 on the last fill up, probably only filled it 5 times since I've owned it, just moved down to SC and there's a place near me that sells non-ethanol 93, was going to use that for the next fillup, the fuel filter is located directly behind the carb, easy to reach, should be simple enough to replace.

Oil was Pennzoil 20W50 non-syn, as far as water in the tank, I guess anything's possible but it's unlikely, car wasn't garaged in November and December but covered when it wasn't being driven, though it was towed down from NY to SC in some snow uncovered.

Just replaced the battery last month, didn't notice any loose bolts but a double check is in order.

 

if you've run 5 tanks thru and drive it somewhat regularly I doubt that's an issue - but could have been condensation. you can buy a bottle of magic juice to soak up water and toss it in the tank (note the ratio tho - odds are you want about 1/4 of a standard bottle because of the tank size)

be careful with no-name sellers of no ethanol. I was using one and my car started running like crud. It really does not like anything less than 92 and I went back to shell for some name brand hi-test - with ethanol - and car running problems went away. Draw what conclusions you want but I now stick to stations I trust and add an ethanol treatment for what ever small piece of mind that provides.

20-50 is what most say is best.