Well, several years ago, after purchasing a 2007 Mini, I was "bitten" by the Mini bug.....after being on NAM as a viewer soley for many years I started to seriously consider getting a classic. I have been trying to learn as much as possible about the classics in anticipation of finding/buying one. I'm no genius under the hood, but this "bug" has made me want to learn and get dirty under the hood (havent done that since H.S. in the late 80's). I found and bought one finally last week, 1973 Austin, 1275. Now the fun begins, what works, doesnt work, what switch does what, needs replacing, etc. I am awaiting my Haynes manual (as always suggested by Capt BJ and countless others) to get plenty of my questions answered (not that its not on the 67 pages on here!). Other than waiting for the manual, and buying a case of 20W-50 oil, anything i should prepare myself for (besides hours of puzzle solving, working on the car, oh, who can forget the FUN!)

Thanks to all of you on here. You guys are truely a huge source of knowledge for us "newbies" and is greatly appreciated.

 

Wow ... sounds familiar. I too bought a 2007 MINI then shortly after bought a 1973 Austin w/ 1275 ... and I was in H.S. in the late 80's

Anyway, you should have fun with your new project. I would spend some time making sure the thing is truly road worthy ... check the brakes, do a tune up, and familiarize yourself with the engine bay - you'll be spending a lot of time there.

Welcome! Now post some pictures!
Jeff

 

second hint (after Buy Haynes!)

consider getting some ZPPD addative for the oil

this is a Zinc compound that was recently removed from US motor oils (except for a few specialty oils) but has been found to be very very important in older engines. Most of the car rags I've been reading agree that this stuff is really important in older engines and even Seven commented in their latest mailing
http://www.7ent.com/news/4/Tech-Tip%...-Avoid%21.html

I get it several bottles at a time from Eastwood, but it is probably hidden away someplace at a good autoparts store and I just haven't found it.
http://www.eastwood.com/zddp-plus-oi...ve-3-pack.html

And I'd head over to Harbor Freight first just to look around and see what they have (everything). The quality is sometimes questionable but for starter tools they are usually OK. At the top of the buy list after basic wrenches should be a timing light. You can get by with the simple $20 one - I've been using one for years.

 

Question. the additive for the fuel. Is that added everytime i fill up or less often? i found info about the additive, but not the frequency.

 

ZDDP goes in the oil . . . one lil bottle with each oil change

 

Sorry Capt. My question was confusing. I meant the lead additive in the fuel.

 

did your seller tell you a lead additive was needed? by now I think most 1275's either were built with, or have been retro fitted with the hardened seats allowing the use of unleaded fuels. My "documentation" if you could call it that specifically lists hardened seats / unleaded fuel compatability.

If you need it then yes the proper amount would need to go in with each fill . . .

 

No, the seller made no mention and as a newbie, i didnt even think to ask (rookie!) lol Can you suggest anything that may give me the answer?

 

Sunshine,
Congratulations on your 1973 Austin. I've been totally captivated by Minis and MINIs for years and have come here to read constantly about everything and anything, since getting my first MINI, not long ago. I'm no where near being a mechanic but the help and knowledge I see here has been a comfort in many doubtful instances with this little car.

 

Well first place to look would be to ask the seller if you are still on speaking terms. did they use an add'tive or not?

I don't know of an easy visual check but I'll ask around.

You might want to check the forums at MiniMania

I remember seeing a mention of this in MiniWorld recently but a quick check of the top of my pile didn't turn anything up. BTW, I HIGHLY recommend a subscription to MiniWorld - I find nearly every one of their monthly tech articles VERY useful and often amazingly timely...

http://www.miniworld.co.uk/

*************
from a person who's opinion I respect he's rebuilt several Minis:

The only way I know of is to remove the head and take out an exhaust valve. In theory, if it does not have hardened seats, it needs lead. It probably depends on the state of tune (ie how many mods/HP it has) and how much its driven. If basically stock and he just drives occasionally, he probably can get by as it takes a while to really get any valve seat damage. If modified and he drives it regularly, probably should use lead additive. I guess there is the rub. If rarely driven, lead additive wouldn't be expensive but if driven daily, it gets expensive. If driven a lot, it might be worth removing the head and doing a valve job - then he would know for sure.

 

Capt.,
I will post a picture tomorrow, but off the top of your head would you know what the switch/cable with the "fire" image on it is for. I cant seem to find any info in the Haynes manual. It is opposite the choke cable.

 

that's the heater and if nothing has been changed: out is off - that is, the valve to the heater core is closed.

from a sample owner's manual (850 & 1000 1969 thru 1975)

 

Hi guys,

This is my first post. I just bought a 1976 Morris mini and was wondering if you can help me figure out something with it. All the paperwork with it displays that it is a 1976. The style, engine, design etc suggests the same but the vin consists of 7 numbers only. It has a stripe accross the bottom with the letters LE. It is yellow with black on top. I got it for a great price but it's in the shop right now for what looks like an expensive repair. Looks like it was shipped from England in 1976 to NewZeland and spent the bulk of it's life there. Any tips on how I can confirm the vin is authentic?

Thank you

 

Start here ... http://www.minimania.com/ArticleV.cfm?DisplayID=1800

 

Any idea what the last letter of a chassis/VIN number of "N" would stand for. I guess the last letter tells you where it was manufactured but can't find what plant N would have been.