My new Mini
I push down on it but the latch that holds it down in the middle won't lock on it. It might be the screws.
If the latch isn't catching when the bar goes in the hole, it could be either alignment, or you might have a problem with the lever/spring that keeps it closed. 1st, check that all the screws/nuts are tight. Then, with the bonnet up, try moving the locking lever back and forth. See if it's moving freely. If not, try some oil/grease/WD40/silicon spray lubricant on it.
It is probably the spring under the bonnet. I had the same problem. I just opened it up, and tightened the spring. There is a screw right there. Just tighten it up and you should be fine.
Try what Agro said and ALSO look on the underside of the bonnet lip and along the fronf of the engine bay for rubber anti-vibration nubbins... I tried fitting a few rubber feet between the bonnet lid and the front engine bay strut and just 1/4" of ruber kept the bonnet from latching properly. I ended up cutting them thinner with a razor blade- enough to stop the bonnet vibration but not so much as to make the bonnet latch pop.
If you simply cannnot make it latch, even after adjusting the bonnet and catch, there's always bonnet straps (which are very traditional) and/or locking pins (which aren't).
If you simply cannnot make it latch, even after adjusting the bonnet and catch, there's always bonnet straps (which are very traditional) and/or locking pins (which aren't).
If it won't latch it's probably either the spring or the overall alignment. I'd try *less* force. No sense in banging up a good bonnet! You can slacken the bolts that hold it to the hinges (4) on the back side and wiggle things around to get the alignment better. Sounds like it's the pin / spring though.
Hey MiniXB,
I found you some used wheel options last weekend at the All Brit show up at the KCI airport... Good prices, too. There are (or were, at least) 3 different used sets available through the same seller. I have his number, prices, etc. If you are intersted, PM me and I'll give you the details and tele number. (MWS 10"x6" on nearly new Yoko tires; GB 10"x5"; and Dunlop 10"x5" wheels)
I found you some used wheel options last weekend at the All Brit show up at the KCI airport... Good prices, too. There are (or were, at least) 3 different used sets available through the same seller. I have his number, prices, etc. If you are intersted, PM me and I'll give you the details and tele number. (MWS 10"x6" on nearly new Yoko tires; GB 10"x5"; and Dunlop 10"x5" wheels)
(Sigh)... I know already...
I like the look better than the 12's, but I can only fit 12's or larger duue to my disc brakes (swapping them for Cooper S smaller discs is an option, but is expensive). 13's would necessitate swapping the arches and modding the wheel wells - I need to go 12X5 or MAYBE 12X5.5 tops to avoid having to do bodywork.
I like the look better than the 12's, but I can only fit 12's or larger duue to my disc brakes (swapping them for Cooper S smaller discs is an option, but is expensive). 13's would necessitate swapping the arches and modding the wheel wells - I need to go 12X5 or MAYBE 12X5.5 tops to avoid having to do bodywork.
True, but only with certain arches - Sportack and Group 5's are drop-dead sexy with the wider, "dished" rims. You definietly need to mod the wheel wells and body to accomodate them, plus you lose some of the classic "go kart" twitch steering with wider rims. the trade-off gives you increased traction due to the larger contact patches and (I hear) a more comfy highway ride...
Always a trade-off when you modify the car's steering geometry...
Always a trade-off when you modify the car's steering geometry...
such a nice mini........i tried so hard to get my mom to buy it since it was an automatic and about 25 miles from us......but she procrastinates.........looks nice .....now she wants me to build them a Moke....lol......anyways, good luck with her
Sweet!! You selling your seats?? j/w







